 In this box is a huge N-Cure UV curing station. They say that it can cure models up to 400 millimeters big and it has 252 UV curing bulbs. This thing simply is a beast. Let's check it out. My name's Jim and this is The Edge of Tech. So recently I got my Elgu Jupiter unboxed and actually functioning and I also unboxed that Howlett Mage Pro by Creality. Both of those are pretty large build areas with the Jupiter being much larger of course. The really cool thing about large areas on resin printing is they can make much larger things. But most people forget that you need some place to actually wash and more importantly cure those prints before they're actually usable. That's where the N-Cure Plus comes in. So the N-Cure Plus that I got is a prototype and the final machine may vary a little bit but it all comes flat packed and this is kind of what it looks like all laid out on the bench once I got it unboxed. It was actually packed in there really well, wrapped very well. There was a lot, a lot of packing material in between all the pieces so they didn't rub or scratch or bump or break but I think what we're gonna do now is walk through the assembly just to see how easy it is. So the first thing you wanna do is get all of the paper off the acrylic on the inside of your panels. And I do have to say there's quite a lot of paper that they left on here but that's okay. That means these panels are not gonna get all scratched up and shipping. It does take a little while to peel all of that paper out but that's okay. Then we wanna take the back of the machine like this and we're gonna start putting the right and left sides in it. So you wanna take the right side and slot it in and it's just acrylic slots. It's really actually very smart how they put this together and then you're gonna take the left side and it's literally gonna slot in and slide down like that. So that is the start of the inside of the end cure station here. So now I got all of the paper off the bottom and we're gonna put the bottom in next. We're just gonna drop this slowly in around all of those lights, push down all the way around and locked in. So the bottom actually holds everything all together. It's a really good design. I like that a lot. So far the hardest part about this has just been peeling all the paper off. So the next thing we need to do is put our front like power panel on. I will peel the paper off because this is a pretty easy one to do. And you can see it says end cure plus. And you can see it says end cure plus right on there. To do that, we are just going to slide up the panel like this and this is going to slot into the front just like the other two did. So that slots in, that slots in and there we go. So when I set this back down, it might not be all the way in but you can kind of see how it's gonna look like this. From here we can start wiring up the bottom. I'm just gonna do this and just like that the bottom is wired up. It was super simple. I was just going off some picture diagrams so I didn't want to bore you with that process but now we just need to put the bottom panel on. As you can see, I have almost all of the paper or all the paper off that and it's gonna screw in with four M three by five screws. So I'm gonna do that now. I'm gonna grab my little Allen wrench, the M three by five screws should pull out my T handles because you guys know I love T handles. There's one corner. I'm gonna get the other three done and we'll be right back. And just like that, the bottom panel's on and it's now time to install the top. So I'm gonna flip this over. I'm gonna take our top panel here. It has that special UV glass in it. It's very red, as you can see. It's supposed to help block the UV rays and protect you from the UV rays. We're gonna slide it in just like we did the other panels and it just pops in just like that. There are two little M five or M three by five bolts that we need to put in to hold this all in place. I'm gonna do that and we'll go on to the next part. Next we need to install the cover and that's what we're gonna do. So there's this little acrylic piece here that has some pads and that transfers power to the cover when the cover's down. So that piece just slides in, pretty simple. And then your cover actually already has hinges on it. And I did take the paper off the bottom there. I'm just gonna set that down like that. And we're gonna work on screwing the M three by 16 screws in the back here and we'll go on to the next step. Okay, now that the lid is on and it's actually a really stable hinge. I was pretty surprised to be honest, a very stable hinge and there's actually a switch, like an end stop switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed as well. We are gonna take and put the massive turntable on. I mean, this thing is seriously massive. So I'm gonna take and slot this over the top of the little motor and I'm gonna drop the screw on top of that so it holds itself down. And once I drop this screw on the top here, we're done and we can start testing. Now that the turntable is in and the screw is holding it down on that motor, assembly is completely done. Overall, the assembly should probably take you 10 minutes but that does not include pulling all of the paper off of all the panels. Plan on a good chunk of time just to do that. But I understand why NQir has to do that. They wanna protect their acrylic but definitely plan on some time to pull and peel all of the paper off the panels. After you get that done with the prep, install, maybe 10 minutes, it's not very hard at all. With that, I think it's time to fire this thing up and see if it works. So we have it plugged in and when I flip it on, you're gonna see the screen in the front. That is gonna allow you to set and change the time and there's little arrows that'll go up and down with the time and a little set button that'll allow you to go through the minutes and seconds and get that dialed in exactly where you want it. When you're ready, you'll just hit the play or pause button to start the machine. So when we hit that play button, hopefully, we'll see all of the lights light up in there along the sides, as you can see. And if we see the top, yeah, there's the top ones and there's the bottom ones. So we are lighting up all of the lights. That means we assembled this correctly. All the connections are made right. And I can hear that turntable in there spinning so we know it's ready to go. The lights are on, turntable's moving. It's time to cure some stuff. I'm gonna use three models from the Howlet Mage Pro that I printed recently, specifically for this test because I wanted to see if it would cure all of them at the same time. I love the fact that I can put them all in here because this thing is so large, but I really wanna see how it does. One thing not to forget is that you have to dry your prints before you cure them. Always wash them and always let them completely dry before curing. You never want to put wet prints or anything that's still wet into the curing station or any curing station for that matter. Another thing is that they say that this runs from 395 to 405 nanometers for the curing process and it's supposed to help cure these better. We're gonna find out. Now that it's all loaded up, let's see this thing in action. I'm gonna set it at seven minutes and we'll see how they turn out. And just like that, it is done. I tell you what, during the curing, I actually opened and closed the top door a couple times and I just wanted to see if the lights went out and kind of what happened. So what happens when you open the door while it's curing is all the lights go out immediately and on the front, the timer pauses. That's great. I love to see that in case a kid opens this or you're not thinking and you open it so all that UV isn't going all over the place. It's great that it stops, it's great that it pauses and then when you close the lid, it just resumes from there. So nice work. All the models are cured, let's see how it went. So I think the first thing I'm gonna check out is the Titanic print. This was a test print on the Hallet Mage Pro by Creality. It came out very good. It looks like it's fully cured, which is good because I don't have gloves on. And I mean, the whole thing came out really nice. This is actually too big on most of my curing stations to spin. So it's kind of nice that there was the extra space in here, I mean a lot of extra space in this to be honest, but the Titanic came out really well and not bad for the first thing that we checked out. The next thing I wanna check out is the Spiny Dragon by Printed Obsessions. And that is this guy right here. Printed Obsessions has some amazing models, check them out on things. And I will link that in the description below. But I chose this model to print and to cure because there's all of this extra surface area to try to cure up underneath the spines and the dragon scales and up in the mouth and the teeth. It came out very, very good. I think this did a very good job curing it. I don't see any parts that are not cured. Again, that's good because I don't have gloves on. And it looks really nice. I do see that I missed taking off some supports, but that's my fault. And I think having the lights at all of the different angles on top, on the sides, on the bottom, and this giant plate spinning them around, I think it does a really good job as seen here. Another win for the curing station, nice work. Last but not least, I printed and cured this tie fighter. I'm gonna be 100% honest. I cannot remember for the life of me who did this model. I looked back at my stuff and I can't find where I downloaded it from. I apologize, there's so many tie fighters out there. And I'm gonna keep looking. If I find it before I publish this, I will put it down in the description below. But it came out really well. I cured it standing straight up and I did that because I knew it was gonna have to cure into the wings, you know, from the sides. Man, this model came out really nice too. I'm hoping I can figure out who did this and link it below. The only thing I see wrong with this model is my fault. I let it sit for days on the build plate after it was done and it looks like the resin kind of like separated eventually on the side that wasn't cleaned off. So that's my fault. Otherwise, tie fighter came out really, really nice. So overall, I think the N-Cure plus curing station did a very good job. It was pretty easy to build. It was very fast. The longest part about the whole assembly, just being honest, is peeling all of that paper off of all of the panels. But they have to do that to protect it when it ships. So I totally understand and I get why they did that. If it comes out clean and it's not cracked or damaged or scratched, I'm okay with taking some time to peel some paper off. They say that it can cure in two minutes. I did not test that. So I'm gonna try that with a different model, maybe a hollow model, I don't know, something like that. For what it's worth, I haven't tested the two minutes, but I can tell you that with seven minutes, with all three of these models on it, it did a very good job. At the time of filming this, the N-Cure curing stations are actually on Kickstarter. There are three different sizes. This is the biggest one. So check it out if you want to. There'll be a link in the description below. You know how to deal with Kickstarter. Only spend the money that you can throw away essentially. Not saying that these guys are bad. By any means, I'm just saying it's Kickstarter. You never know what's gonna happen and nothing is guaranteed. I do have to put that in all of my Kickstarter videos, but just be careful and I can tell you this. If this prototype is any resemblance of what finally comes out of this project, it's gonna be a very good curing machine. I really think this is gonna be my go-to curing machine now. So I really appreciate N-Cure for sending this over and letting me take a look at it. There'll be a link in the description below with the Kickstarter link to this and the models. I'm hoping I can find that tie fighter, but I will get the links in the description below for that. So if you got value from today's video, please smash that thumbs up, that like button. I really appreciate it. And if you wanna see more videos on 3D printing, CNC and lasers, please consider hitting that subscribe button. And as always, don't forget to check out that one right there.