 What's going on? What? It's not what it looks like. It's not what it looks like, I swear. Hey, that's my stuff. It's not what it looks like. Hey, welcome to Roto Riot. This is the Roto Riot Prospect P-Dev-X Build Kit, something that you can build yourself at home. We also have the Prospect Build available as a pre-built, so it'll already come ready to go, ready to fly for you. You just need to bind your receiver. So in this kit, we have pretty much everything that I use in my quads today. We're going to be building the walk snail version, but it's also available with a Cad-X Vista. The other pieces in the kit, we've got the Pirate Frames Hook V2 5-inch freestyle frame. For the motors, we have the T-Motor F40 Pro version 4. For the stack, we've got the T-Motor F7 flight controller and a 55 amp ESC. The props that we're going to throw on these motors, these are from Gemfan. These are the props I've been flying for about a year. This is the freestyle 4S. And the last component, the receiver. I'm going to use TBS Tracer. I've had a really great experience with it. It will also be available with other receiver options, including Crossfire, Ghost, or ELRS, and maybe a few others. Okay, so the first thing we're going to look at is the frame. Again, this is the Pirate Frames Hook V2. I've been flying this for a couple years now. I was able to help them develop it. Okay, inside the box, we've got a wonderful sticker sheet. Of course, you need one of those. Straps, bag of hardware, hook arms. We've got a little 3D print for the VTX antenna. We're not going to use this. We've got our own prints that are included with the kit. Last few items, we've got the battery pad. And then inside this bag here, plates. So there's just three plates, a top plate, mid plate, and a bottom plate. The last two plates, these were just hiding in there. These are the two cam plates. There's a few more features of the Hook V2 that make it different from any other frame out there. One of those things is the arms. You can have it in a squished X or a true X configuration. And the way that works is there's this little hole here. And depending on which way you flip it, it'll move the arm inward or outward. So the squished X kind of messes with the center of gravity. I feel like the true X gives you a better balance between the front and back and the two sides. One other cool thing about the arms on the Hook V2 is that they are compatible with Pirate Frames other freestyle frame, which is the Sloop V3. We'll take a look in this little baggie. We've got all the hardware. And something very special about the Pirate Frames is that they include a full set of Torx hardware. So traditionally on most frames, they use Allen key or Hex hardware. So if you've never seen a Torx bolt before, the head has a little star pattern. So that's a T10 Torx head, but they do include this little L shaped wrench here. I do recommend picking up your own driver though. We do have the Rotoride Edition T10 Torx driver. I've got a little dish so we can be organized. So we've got a few baggies of standoffs. These are the short ones. These are going to go on the backside of the quad. Two longer ones, these go in the front. This is a bag of motor screws. I won't open this yet because we're just not there. These are short ones for the top and bottom plates. And the ones you want to pay attention to are the longest ones and these middle sized ones here. These are what hold the arms on and the standoffs. One of my favorite things about the Pirate Frames are these gold hardware that they include. These are for your action camera mount, but I also like to use them for the little TPU feet that we put on the quad. And last we have these little press nuts. You do need to put these in yourself, but I'll show you a cool way of doing that. These look pretty similar. This is the bottom plate and this is the mid plate. And the way you can tell that is this is where the cam plates are going. And on this plate you've got the 2020 stack for mounting your VTX. The mid plate is where we're going to put the press nuts and there is one side that you want to put them on. The way you find that is there's these countersunk holes. This is the bottom side. And so we need the press nuts to go in on top and it's just four in these four larger size holes. So that's how you can tell these are the holes for the press nuts. You won't find this size hole anywhere else on the frame. What I do is I take these little cup washers. I take the smallest Torx hardware and again this is on the top side of the plate. Come in from the bottom and I'm going to fish it in from the backside and just torque it down right until it's seated on the carbon. And then you can back it out. So that's what it's going to look like. We're going to go do the rest of these here. Just be careful to make sure it's on the right side again. Yeah! That's the sound. That means it's tight. Now we've got all four in there and we are ready to assemble the bottom part of the frame. The way I like to do this is you want the long hardware and then the middle sized hardware that goes in the countersunk holes here you can tell from the shape of the head. And I just like to fish them all through the little cup washers in advance so they're all ready. So you're going to need four of each size. The smaller middle sized hardware goes in the center holes. And on this one, again, there is a top and bottom. The way you can tell that is the bottom has the countersunk holes. So we're just going to fish these up through these middle holes. Sometimes the holes are pretty tight. You just got to drive it on in. We've got those in there. And the tolerance is pretty tight so it will stay in there. These longer bolts go in the outside. Once you get it started, you can push it in from there. Okay, so we've got these ready and then we're going to take the arms and we're going to put them on. I like the way that it flies in the True-X. It feels a lot more balanced and with a quad like this, that's a toilet tank. You've got a really tight center of gravity so to take advantage of that, I think the True-X configuration is the way to go. And the way to do that for Squished-X, you would have this hole facing outward and that moves the arm in this way. For True-X, you have it this way so that it moves the arm out and that's relative to the center. So for this True-X configuration, we're going to have two arms with the holes towards the center of the quad and on the back, they'll be flipped. Same thing. The holes here are facing on the inner side. You want to support the hardware from the bottom just in case it tries to slide off. Generally, it'll stay. You just want to make sure that they don't overlap and that they meet up and this gives you, because they meet in the middle, a nice rigid frame once it's all bolted together. So now we're going to take the mid-plate and with the press nuts on top, we'll just feed this on and again, kind of like hold on to the hardware from the bottom and just get it started and then we can flip the whole thing over and start to cinch it together. So these Torx hardware on the outside will not be going into anything yet. We'll be putting the standoffs there but these ones in the middle will be going into the press nuts that we installed earlier and that's going to hold everything together. This is a very tight build. So you can't just throw any components in here because they might not fit with the VTX that you have in the back here. So what you want to consider is some flight controllers and ESCs, they can have kind of protrusions out, they're just oversized boards. There's not a lot of space here where you're going to mount your VTX. So you just want to make sure that they're going to fit and all jive together. But I know that stacks like this will work. So the stack hardware that comes with the T-motor stack is the wrong size, way too long. But we will include the right size stack hardware in the Prospect build. It's a different head on this hardware but you're really not going to get into your stack very often. Emergence of the hardware! Cool. And then we will throw this little nut on here. So we've got the stack hardware installed and we're going to prep the ESC. Because of how tight this frame is, you're going to want to run the battery leads out the front side, like that. But what we're going to do first is tin everything up and then we're going to put the XC60 on there as well as the leads for the capacitor. This stack does include this perfectly sized capacitor that will fit into the mount that's also included. Everything has a place on this frame because it's so tight, everything needs a place to go. So yeah, you really want to be conscious of which components you're picking and how much space you've got in here because it's tight. But the reason it's tight is because you get a tight center of gravity and that just makes it fly amazing. We just need little stubbies to solder to. You can tell on the capacitor which side is the negative you've got a big O minus. It's going to be on a standoff that goes here and so you just want to make sure that whichever leads are going to the positive and negative aren't criss-crossing or anything like that just to make it really nice and clean. Do not mix this up or you will have no more USC. Do not ever cross these like crossing streams. Okay, so before we get started, this is not a soldering tutorial. Okay, so I'm just going to tin these up so we can put some wire on them in a little bit. Next. We're just going to go around and hit all these pads here. These are the pads for the motor wires and then this is for our XT60 power lead. I know I don't use enough flux. I don't use any flux, okay? So I forgot to do one thing. In the bag of hardware from the stack, we've got the little gummies. We need to put those in our ESC. Be careful if you already soldered to it because this will be hot. So these are stubborn usually. I'll take one of my drivers. I'm just going to shove one side in and then you also want to be careful because there could be components around here very close to these holes and you don't want to mess anything up. But you're going to go all the way around, put these in. Before we put it on to the stack hardware, we're going to solder the XT60 leads on to here. I like a short lead and I like it to come up right about where the top plate is going to be and fasten it to the standoff that goes here. I run it off the side. It's going to come up like this and it's going to be real short so that it doesn't get into the props and get all mangled. We want the positive on this side so that it goes directly to here. And then we'll snip this down to sides and you can be a little off. It's fine. Longer is always better. We'll go right here. What you don't want to do is just cut straight across because we're going to maneuver it around here just to conserve as much space in the front as we can. We're just going to loop this over and then cut it a little bit longer. It's just the tiniest bit longer and it's about as much as the space between the two pads. Now we've got that cut to length. We're going to tin the ends of these. Get it going. You get a big ball of solder. We want this whole tip to be caked in the stuff. That should be good enough. We're going to heat it again once we put it on the pads here. Get that little hot and then kind of rest that there until they flow. That should be good, but I always like to put a little more. I'm not the best at this. So please don't. Please be kind to me. And then this other one, we've got to fish it around. You do not want these to touch. Oh, it's hot. Where are my tweezers? Let the solder flow through you. This is pretty good. And then one more thing to do. The capacitor is going to run off the same side as the power leads. And we're just going to solder a little bit on the bottom here to put those wires on. And that's where we're going to attach our capacitor wires. Once you have the wires attached and you have a general idea of where it's going to be placed because the capacitor is going to go about here on the print then you can cut down the wires. Again, please don't judge me. Or sometimes you just make it a little worse. Okay, not the best, but it'll work. What I like to do is take liquid electrical tape and just pour it over these. Just to keep it, you know, if it were to hit the carbon. It's just generally a little bit safer. But for now, we'll just run it like this. And again, we're going to go positive here. Cut these wires down to size. Connect it to our little solder blobs. If you want to actually be good at soldering there's probably a tutorial from Joshua Bardwell. Now the ESC is ready to go on and we won't need to take it off anymore. Now what we're going to do is prep for the motors. I use race wire on all my quads. The reason that I do that is because then you can cut the motor wires down to the same length for every quad. And then you can hot swap them between quads. You're not worrying about having to extend motor wires or anything like that. It also will protect from prop stripes. And what that's going to do for you is when the prop spins if you were to bend a prop down instead of chopping your wires up it's going to hit this race wire. So that's another great advantage of having a race wire. So what I'll need to do is just tape these. Comes with this little piece of 3M tape. You could tin them and then mount them. I'm going to mount them and tin them. I work on it all the time when it's taped down. It's no big deal. It can deal with the heat. The next thing we need to do is get the motors ready. We're going to cut them down to size. And then we're going to use the rest of that wire to connect the race wire to the ESC. These are the feet we're going to be using. These just go in the end here. And one thing that's real nice is it only takes two pieces of hardware to hold it in. What I like about these is we've got little feet on the bottom and skin in the parking lots and protect this precious hardware down here. Eventually it'll get scraped up but it helps it last a little bit longer. It only takes two pieces of hardware to swap it. So you don't have to pull all the motor screws out. So again on the motor hardware you're going to use two of the standard hardware from the frame kit. And then we will include extra gold hardware because you need it to be a little bit longer to get through the TPU here. You want to be careful because there's two holes with different motor sizes and we're going to be using these inner holes. And then you'll take two of the black motor hardware from the frame kit and those go in. Okay, and then don't worry about this mess of wire yet. We'll address that in a moment. We'll put all four motors and feet on and go from there. Now that we have all of our motors mounted up what we need to do is cut the wires to length. I like to just flatten them out like that. We're going to use a little bit of leeway and just pay attention because they are offset so the middle wire is going to be a little bit longer. Make sure you hang on to the extra wire because that's what we're going to use to connect the race wire to the ESC. Boom. So we're just tinning the motor wires up and we'll tin these pads up. We're going to go all the way around and do that. So we're going to take the motor wire scraps to attach the race wire to the ESC. They come pre-tinned. I don't always trust that and it's like way too long because I cut that down. And I like to start from the middle. So I'm going to take the standoffs. I'm just going to install those so that we have a reference for running our wires around. And these are the short ones. So all the short ones go on the mid-plate and then the long ones go on the front. We don't need to install those yet though. I start at the middle. I like to wrap the wire around the standoff. The other wires are going to run along the side. Yeah, that looks real nice like that. See how nice that looks? Honestly, it doesn't matter, but I like a nice clean build. All of the motor wires are wired up to the race wire. We've got all the motors wired to the race wire. So we are set on this ESC. We want to plug this plug in. This is the plug that goes from the ESC to the flight controller. If you buy your stack components separately, then you definitely need to make sure that the pin-out is correct. Voltage and then your motor wires, current and telemetry. So this is definitely good to go. So the reason I plug this in is because there's not going to be a lot of room to work with once we get the VTX in, which is what we're doing next. This is the Waxnail Avatar HD kit. We've got all the mounts that you're going to need to put this in here, VTX and camera. We've got two antennas. So what we're going to do is take the VTX and we're going to put it on this TPU mount. Faces with the taller side towards the front. The way I'm going to do this is we've got two different size of M2 hardware. This one is 10mm and we also have a 5mm. We're going to use the 10mm to mount the VTX to the TPU mount. Then we use the 5mm to secure that to the frame. I think it's a good idea to run the hardware going up first. You want to make sure to push it all the way up. You need the clearance underneath to mount these feet down. Next, we're going to take this 5mm M2 and feed it up through the bottom. We're just going to get it started. See, there's not a lot of clearance under there and we need to get this nut in there. You'll need a 1.5mm hex. That's just going to secure the mount to the frame. If you're using the plastic nuts, just be careful not to strip it out. This mount's a little tricky. So included in the kit, you're going to get this wire harness. This will go from the HD VTX plug on the flight controller to the Avatar VTX. There's a bunch of them that are included with the WalkSnow kit and the stack but this is the one you want. This is so convenient because we've already soldered up all these wires. When you add the race wire, you've got a lot of extra solder points. So it's really nice to be able to just throw the flight controller down, run the wires in the bag and just plug everything in. So even though we have the ESC backwards with the leads out the front, the flight controller we're going to have in the normal orientation, you know what orientation it goes in because this little arrow is going to point towards the front. Before the flight controller can go down, you're going to need a little spacer. So we have all this hardware sticking up. We can now mount our VTX. You have to work it in. The TPU really holds the hardware in place. So even though you're pushing it down, it's not sliding out. And then we're going to take these M2 nuts. Let's go on top. We're going to need to remove these eventually to add the antennas. But for now, we'll just loosely thread those on. We've got an antenna mount. It's kind of hard to see. There's actually two different thicknesses of this channel here. And where this channel goes is into the mid and top plate. So the top plate is the thicker plate. It's two and a half millimeters. And so you can kind of tell this is the skinnier side by half a millimeter. This is the thick side. You'll know when you go to put it on and try to fit it around the plate here. But if you can see, it's going to mount there. And what's nice about the way that it slides over like this, we only have one standoff in the back. We found that that works perfectly. We don't need more than that. But that keeps it from rotating side to side. Feed them through a little hole all the way in and then just shove it in there. Now this mount is not ideal for RF. These are little stubby guys. But what I like about this is that your antenna is very protected because it just kind of hangs off the back here. You've got the buffer of where the arms will hit anything before you hit the back. So that will really protect everything. But because it's kind of just tucked back here in the back of the frame, not sticking up, you're not going to get the best video, but it's more than enough. And if you have no antenna, you don't have any RF. So, you know, this will help keep you from breaking them. So before we mount it, there's one more short standoff. We're going to slide that through this hole here. We can take the smaller side, which goes over the mid plate, just slide it into place. We'll take one of the smallest torques hardware from the frame kit that goes in here. Cool. And just enough, it's going to spin. Once we're done with everything, we'll go back through and we'll retighten everything. So now we are ready to put on the flight controller. So we want to put these little spacers in between the ESC and where the flight controller is going to go. And we're going to solder up our flight controller. This is the side that goes to the front. This is our plug for our walk snail system. This is where we'll plug in the ESC wire harness. So the other pieces of this kit, we need to wire up our receiver. And we've got the TBS tracer. So I always use a lost model buzzer. So you can activate it from the radio just with a switch, as long as the battery hasn't ejected. But if the battery does eject, you are covered because this has a zone battery. Don't listen to Drew. He hates buzzers. I don't know why he hates buzzers so much. They're just the greatest thing, okay? I really like this stack because, you know, we've got two plugs. And then really we're only going to be soldering three wires for the buzzer and four wires for the receiver. So that's great. Okay. So for the buzzer, there's three wires. We've got a ground and a 5 volt that we're going to hook up, as well as this buzzer minus. So we're going to run the black to the ground. Red goes to the 5 volt. This yellow one is the one that goes this B minus. Great. And that's how we're able to send a signal from our radio to tell it to buzz. So the tracer kit comes with two antennas. Tracer receiver and all the wires that you're going to need. We're going to solder up these four pads along the bottom. They give us more wires than we're going to need. We just want a red, a black, a yellow and a white. It's kind of hard to see on here, but this pad has got a square shape to it. That's how you know that's the ground. But we're going to solder from this side. So this top one is ground. Next to that is 5 volt. And then this is our TX pad and our RX pad. So on the ground pad, we've got the black wire. Next to that is the red wire. Don't mix these up. You'll be very sad. Your quad won't fly white and yellow. You can pick which one goes where. And then I like to take this heat shrink. We're going to cut it down. Before we actually shrink the heat shrink, one thing I like to do, I like to have access to the UFL connectors for the antennas without having to take the heat shrink off. So I just cut a little channel in and just keep in mind that the heat shrink is going to shrink a little notch out. So once the shrink's down, you'll still have access to these. Okay, and then on our flight controller, we just need to pick a set of UARTs to use. That would be one of the RX pads and the TX pads spared together. And they have numbers here. So this is R5 and T5. You just need to make sure that those numbers match on the ones that you're going to connect to. You also need a 5 volt on the ground. So I think these pads look really good. We're going to use the R5 and T5 and the ground and 5 volt. They're all co-located together. Okay, so the way we've got it set up in the yellow wire is the TX pad and the white wire is the RX pad. When you wire these up, you hook up the RX pad to the TX pad. So what is the receiving side and when is the transmitting side? So that's why you have a TX connected to an RX so that the transmit can go to a receive. And just always double check that you've got it hooked up the right way. Countless times, I've just had it backwards and it won't work. So, you know, get it right. Just keep in mind which UARTs you use because you're going to need that later when you program everything in Betaflight which we have videos for. Our red wire goes to our 5 volt. This black wire goes to the ground. And that is it for the wiring. We are done. We don't need the solder or anything. We don't need to accidentally burn ourselves. So what I like to do is make these a little cleaner and just twist these up. We're almost fully assembled. Let's attach these antennas first. We're going to slide this cover off. And that's where the UFL connectors are so that's why we're going to remove these. Okay, these are tiny. Don't lose them. I think they give you extras but that doesn't mean anything. You don't want to lose them. Attach these UFLs on each side. There we go. Put this cover back on. Really helps to have a magnetic tip. We can kind of just bend these up. It's okay to bend them like that. Just don't want any like hard, hard bends. Now we can put this stand off back in. So now we're ready to assemble the stack. We've got it all wired up. We'll put these spacers on again. They keep falling off. They're very loose. So once again, this arrow is going to indicate which way forward it is. We're going to run a bunch of wires under the flight controller here. So this is coming from the ESC. We're going to plug this into the flight controller. I like having the camera cable for the HD system running underneath. It's just a little bit cleaner. When we put this down, call me M9 Shyamalan. That's a twist. We're going to want to run the receiver wires underneath. So I just kind of bend them forward and make sure that you're not catching any wires underneath the holes between the hardware because you can smush things. But this is going to run out the front side here because we're going to mount our receiver down here in a moment. So we can plug this in. And again, it's a great idea to just confirm that the pinout which is labeled here matches the harness that we've got. And it does. Make sure everything's in the right spot. Nothing's going to get squished. Set that down. We've got our four nyloc M3 nuts. We can just thread those on. We don't need to screw them down all the way just yet. We're almost done. Look at this. It's the last step here. We're going to plug in some things. I like to run this wire underneath the flight controller but you really don't need to. Plug it in the side. In the front here, we've got our tracer. So it's hard to see but in between the arms there's a little cavity that the tracer actually fits. It's really nicely right between. So we're going to get some double-sided tape. We're going to secure this down. That should be enough to hold it but I also like to put a zip tie. So this is the back because we've got the UFL connectors for the antennas on the front there and access to the bind button. So just make sure the tape goes on the back here. So you're not covering those up. Tuck it right back in there and that will be easy to access later. We've got more prints. These prints are for the tracer antennas. I actually have these mounted in the front. So we've got three pieces here. A little complicated but not too complicated. So these little tabs here on each side of these two pieces will sit on either side and that's where we're going to feed the horizontal antenna. And then this hole in this piece is where we're going to feed the vertical and the last piece is going to hold the top of the vertical antenna. So let's take like a pointy pair of tweezers and you can just fish it in the hole and kind of just stretch it out. Slide this antenna through. If it doesn't want to go, just hit it again. Try to stretch it out some more. I like to get them in place before they go on the quad. Stretch it out side to side. I'll hit it with both sides since this is angled. And again, you know, if you need to stretch it some more because it doesn't want to go, that's fine. And then this last one is just to go on top. Yeah, you'll hear some crunching as you do this. That's perfectly natural. It's going to sound like a bag of chips being eaten. Great. Okay, so this is ready for our standoffs. Before we put the standoffs on, we've got another 3D printed piece. This is a bumper for the front of the quad. So this is just going to help in impacts. That way you don't splinter this carbon. It should snap into place. Okay, so we're going to take actually two of these motor screws from the frame kit. And we're going to use those to mount our standoffs. Grab your long standoffs. So these are the only two long standoffs. We'll come back through and tighten everything later. And then our antennas slide right over the top. They'll be pretty snug. That's a good thing. You don't want to lose your antennas randomly in the air. Yo! There we go. And then just push those all the way down. There's a little section of the print that sticks up to rest against the bottom of the plate. So you'll know that it's in place once you push it all the way down and it can't go anymore. And then this third piece just slides right over the top. And it just keeps everything in place. So these can kind of swivel. We'll just swivel them out of the way for now. Attach them to our tracer receiver. It's a little tight in there. You might use like a pair of tweezers to assist. Make sure it's lined up. Pop it down. You'll get a nice click when it goes in. There we go. Now we can put our camera plates in because we're using this micro-sized camera from Waxnail. We want to put the two-pronged side of each camera plate facing down. The way I run them is with the kind of crown shape side towards the back and this curved shape towards the front. The two prongs will go in the bottom because that's the right slot for the micro-camera. So we need to maneuver these out of the way for now. But you want to be careful when you put these camera plates in but you don't want to accidentally smush one of these antenna wires. Ask me how I know. And then if you can see on these prints here there's a little slot and the front edge of the camera plate is actually going to fit right in that slot when we hit it on these two prong holes. There we go. And it fits real snug in there. Once we put the top plate on, if it's not fully seated it should fully seat. There we go. And you can see on the bottom side when they're seated in the right slots. So this little arrow right here on the Waxnail tells you which side is up. Make sure you got the right side up. So this is a 20mm width between the camera plates and this camera is actually a 19mm. So like I said, I like to use little half-millimeter washers between the camera and the camera plate but for right now I'm just going to screw them in. There are two mounting holes on the camera so you can use the slot and one of these holes to mount it. It just depends on where you want the camera to sit within here, forward and backwards. And the further back you have it the more you'll see like the standoffs and other things in view but also your lens will be much more protected. I prefer to have my lens right behind the standoffs. To where if I did hit directly in the front it should be protected. It's a matter of preference. And there'll be a little bit of space in between here. That's fine. It'll all cinch down once we put the top plate on. Before we throw that top plate on so remember we had our capacitor. Right now it's just hanging, chilling. So the first thing we're going to do is zip tie around power leads and attach it to this standoff. Zip tie to go a little bit lower because we're going to slide that TPU print over the top. Luckily these standoffs have a thinner section in the middle that should keep it in place. We'll just snap that. And the reason I do this is that in the case of a crash if your lipo were to eject and it pulled on this power lead you've now got something holding it here. So it's going to pull, all the force is going to pull on the standoff rather than pulling at the pads and ripping them off. And then you've got a destroyed ESC. So this is always a great precaution. It's just a zip tie, but it'll do wonders for you. So we're going to take that TPU print that I showed you earlier that goes over the top, push it up all the way until it hits. I've got a little stopper in there to keep it from going too far. Just slide that over the top, swing it in, and that's good. And then the last piece is that buzzer. So this is our V5 buzzer. We're going to put some tape on the back. I have one more TPU print. One more TPU print. There's TPU prints for everything. Everything has its own place. So that's just going to fit into this little flat side here. We're going to tape it in. We're going to zip tie it. Sorry, it goes this way. We're going to zip tie it. And then there's the plug on the bottom that we can easily put it on. This one slides over the standoff here. And it's got a little piece here that keeps it from smushing your motor wires. And so it'll all clear that. And then you'll end up with the buzzer facing in. So let's get some tape. So when I tape this on, I just want to make sure that the buzzer is going to clear the top of the frame. And so this will be flush with the top plate. So as long as it's kind of like below that, it should be good. Now we're going to take another zip tie. And then there's actually a little channel in the print. It's kind of hard to see. But that's where the zip tie kind of runs through. So that's secured. And we can plug it in. This is a little long. I would have normally cut it a little shorter, but we'll just jam that in there. And then this slides in. And it's on the outside of this plate here. It just kind of hugs up against it. One thing I forgot, we want to put a zip tie around the receiver. There's this little hole with a piece of carbon. With this piece of carbon here, it's going to fish it through around the outside of the receiver. We're not going around the center of it. What we really want is to secure these UFLs so that they don't pop off and crash. It doesn't need to be super tight. It's just securing these down. It's hard to see. There's a tiny button in there. So there's a bind button. Don't cover the bind button because you need to bind it. Remember, don't squish these antenna cables when you're putting these plates in. All right. So we've got everything wired up, everything fully assembled. Now we will take the top plate. We have our little lipo pad. And the way we line this up, we've got our pirate logo right here. Matches the cutout for the logo right there. That's the easiest way to line it up. Pull that off. Very nice. Then we need to feed our strap. So this is the front of the top plate. This is the back of the top plate. So we're going to use this second slot here. We're going to feed the strap through facing this way, all the way down. Flip it over. We're going to use the closest one to the inside. Go up. If you had bigger lipo's, you wanted to accommodate those. You can adjust the strap. But this is where I like to do it. And this will fit your success packs. Great. So this is now ready to go on top. In the back here, we actually have to push this into the TPU so that it sits in our little channel. So I like to do that first. Push that in there. And then sometimes you got to push back on the mount so that the hole lines up with the standoff. We're going to take one of our short Torx hardware, put that in the rear standoff. Got that one there. Got two more, same size for these back holes. And then at this point, if you had an action cam mount, you would install that here. We don't have one right now. So we'll just take the gold hardware. If you had a mount, these are long. So that would thread through the base of your mount. We're going to line these camera plates up with these notches. And sometimes you got to like shimmy them into place. There you go with that one. Got that in place. We'll put our hardware in. That's off. There we go. All right, now it looks like a quad. So again, I like to use tape and zip ties. So I zip tie around each of the race wire. Most of the time, the tape is going to hold. Every once in a while, the tape does fail. Now that everything's assembled, we're going to go around and just torque down on all of these hardware. It gives you a super, super rigid, like there's not a lot of flex to the frame because everything is just torqued down, like to the extreme. So this is pretty much exactly what I fly. So actually, here's proof. This is one of my daily flyers. It's a little banged up. But yeah, I mean, it's pretty much the same. The one major difference, I do like to run this RC-18G Runcam lens. This is a little bit wider field of view. You get more of a fisheye effect. I think this helps with kind of like depth perception and gives you a little bit more information on your peripheral view. This is not included in the kit, but we do sell it at Rotoriet. I just didn't want to include it because not everybody is going to want that super fisheye. Again, it's what I like to run, but it's not for everybody, and I understand that. So that'll be available in the store. I do know that that lens fits the Walkstone camera as well as the DJI and Cad-X Nebula cameras. So any of those will fit that lens. You just got to throw it on there and focus it. Okay, so we pretty much got this quad ready to go. This is the part where we would normally set up Betaflight and configure all the motors in BL Heli. We're not going to do that today. We've got plenty of great videos on how to do that, and we'll link to those in the description. So we'll also have links to CLI dumps for all of the tunes for these quads. We've got our master tuner, Tyler, downstairs, working on a great tune for this. I happen to fly everything on defaults. So that's your route. All you got to do is set up your switches and your motors and everything, and then, yeah, I use default rates. I use default tune. Make sure you leave your props off when you do that. Don't ever connect to the computer and work on your ESCs or anything. It's a big no-no. You can really hurt yourself. For the props, I'm running the Gemfan Freestyle 4S in this clear gray color. I like this color because it tends to not show up as much in the video feed if the props are in view. So I like to run props in because I would rather have grass get flung onto my lens where I can wipe it off than to have grass flung into my stack where it's hard to clean off. I don't want to do that. I know there's advantages to running them. Props out, but I like to do it this way. All right, now we've got it all put together. The only thing you'll need is throw on a lipo. Maybe one of these nice GNB 1300 milliamp hour HV6S packs. I've been liking these quite a bit. Traditionally, you'll mount your lipo long ways on your quad. But this is a toilet tank frame. What that means is that it loads in sideways. The reason that we do this is because of the center of gravity. We've got it mounted in the center here. It's got even distribution of weight on either axis. So if you're going side to side or forward to back, as well as all of the weight is in the center. So there's not a lot of weight on the outside causing that pendulum effect when you do flippy dippies, flippeted doodas all over the place. All right, so that is it. We've got a fully working quad at this point. You're ready to go rip. So again, we've got this kit just like we built it today. Available in the Rotoride store. They'll give you all the hardware, all the prints that you need. That's the ProSpec PDFX build. You can also have it as a pre-build. It's all up on Rotoride.com. I even have my own page. Thanks for watching. Let's go fly this thing. It's building time!