 No, no, no. Thank you for fixing my overhead camera. Yeah. I think what happened was it has a drawing feature. Oh, no. And I think you were drawing on it. Well, I think the cable was draped over it. I think you were drawing on it. Okay. Sorry. Whatever. That's a business. Okay. So you've got these magnetic, actually last week, we put in these really cool magnetic tip cables, their data and power. And on one hand, they've got on one end, they've got the USB a USB C on the end, other end, you can have adjustable different tips. And so last week, we got the USB C tip in this week, we got the micro USB and the iOS lightning, which I will show as well as this wonderful demo. Again, it goes it goes either way, it's USB C and you pick different tips. And what I thought was nice about this is that you could have one cable, different connectors and like these, I'll tell you, like I've tried other ones. And there was the reason we haven't carried these until now is they were always like never that great. But they're much, much better now and actually really like this cable and I like these tips. So let's go to the overhead real fast. Okay, I will show it off newly refreshed overhead, the newly refreshed over it. So this is the cable. So we showed this off last week. And I will lock. So it's type C, if you want, if you have a, you know, USB C connector, you have a MacBook type A if you are on a Windows computer like me. And then I'm going to plug this into my little extension cord here. One thing I like, it has a little power LED tells you that it's lit up. It does data and power. This is the micro USB. It works great. Or if you want the USB C tip, it comes with a tip USB C. But it also there they go. This is running the demo I'm going to show later USB C demo. And then you've also of course, of course got a lightning connector, which I forgot my iPad is dead. But if it was not dead, it would be charged. I left it unfortunately, for a couple days. But the tip does work. Yeah, I'll turn on a second if you like that. Oh, yes, he's like, Hi, why, why did you do that? Now we really could tell it's really upset. It's like, you please put that back in. So yeah, that's one of the things a lot of times there's interesting stuff out there. But we have to test it all. And a lot of it doesn't work. Yeah. And so we're only willing to stock and support the things that we've tested. And then we've also been using these for a while and kind of went through all its paces. Yeah. And I like this just got like a nice woven cable and it's got the USB C or a at the end. And it's nice and you can get extra tips and plug it in. I find this useful because I don't want to have five. I don't have to plug in all the things at once but I do need to switch between all these different kinds of cables all the time. Yep. Okay, next up. Yeah. Okay, next up. I got this for knowing Pedro's project. But the project got finished before the cables came in. This is a USB three to SATA adapter. Basically, you know, every time there's a new Raspberry Pi, people are like, Hey, why haven't you added SATA connectors? It's like, well, because they didn't. It's very small. So $35 computer. But if you want to add SATA, it's really easy. This cable gives you the SATA power and data on the ends. And it has a USB a 3.0 on the other. So it goes like, I think it's like six gigabit per second speed. You know, I do have it plugged in here into a large laptop, I will say USB is only really good for like about an amp. So it's best used with SSDs, not necessarily a or laptop drive. I happen to have only this really big old Western digital. I'm actually drunk. Where do we shoot this photo because it's honestly should be an SSD. I don't want to promise that it works for these gigantic old disk drives. By the way, this is not included if you buy it. Yeah. So yeah, it's very handy. And then of course, check out knowing Pedro's awesome guide on how to turn a Raspberry Pi or other single board computer into a multimedia server for your home. Okay, next up, we've got from Monk makes our favorite one of our favorite British makers, we have no favorites. They're all our favorites. That's favorites for you. Monk makes makes adorable electronics for micro bit but also micro Python and Arduino in general. This is designed for the micro bit and it's got a humidity and temperature sensor and a moisture sensor and RGB LED. It's designed to make gardening projects and sensing projects really easy. It's low cost. It's very affordable. pair it with a micro bit or just use alligator clips to clip it on to your favorite micro controller circuit Python, a clue, what have you a Pico. There's header started on the back and there's no solder required. And he's got a whole bunch of code as well. So check out that and all the other great Monk makes products. And these are all of the wireless LEDs. This is this is the badanza. Yes. Tonight. Okay, cornucopia. Yeah, I'm gonna show all these videos that we did. They did a good job. So we already had the what we were like, wait, you already have the wireless LEDs the store. Yes, we didn't have the big ones. And people wanted the big worthless. So there's two sizes of wireless LEDs that I will actually admit. At first, I did not realize that there was multiple sizes. But if you look at this photo, yeah, and just by the way, if you go to our site, we have we have, you know, the selection page where you can you can do this. So you want to show the Yeah. So on the right, there's the small inductor. And on the left is the large ones. So we've had the small ones in stock. But they actually, you know, the way the inductive chargers work, of course, is we've got the big ring that forms the primary and these coils form the secondary, the magnetic field passes through the coil and and charges up the LEDs. And if you're using the small ring, you know, you pretty much have to be right there. But what's nice is if you have the big ring, and the large wireless LEDs, they can work as far as like 30 ish centimeters away. The red LEDs are particularly dim, but some of the white LEDs, and I think the green ones in particular are very responsive. Um, yeah, let's show him the overhead. The impact of 10. I love doing the demo for these because it's great as you don't have to take them out of the bag. I don't have to take them out of the bag and like lose them. They're right here. So of course, the best transmission you're going to get is when they're coaxial, which means that the ring is in the center, well, this means center, but you know, close the middle, not on the outside of the ring. Put this on my hand here. Yeah, just isn't this neat? In this cool. It's it's magical. It's magical. Yeah, look at this. But it'll always work best if it's coaxial. So like, yes, sticking up and then lift your hand up. So you can get about 10, maybe about up to six, 10 inches away. Look, it's still lit. It's still lit. It does get them or then it stops. So we did a couple measurements. So each one has the using the big ring at 24 volts, how far away it'll work with white, blue, and the colors do act a little differently. Another thing we learned is not all the colors are work at the same distances. So red in particular, I think it's dimmer a little earlier than the green, because the green is just ultra bright. So there you go. So you get the large ones, you have the small ones, of course, the larger ones work at farther distances, but they are larger. So you'll need to be, you know, you can't fit them into his tiny spots. But that said, we have all the different colors. So choose your favorite color, and your favorite size. And yeah, you can go to the one page destination on our site, if you want to. And then don't forget you need the coil as well. But one coil can power dozens of LEDs, as you see. Okey-dokey, next up. Okay, by popular question, finally getting to some more iSpy boards, there's just been so many revisions. And hold on, I actually had the demo. And then of course, I saw the, you know, I'm going to use this magnetic cable. I hit the sorry, five, six, one, three. Okay, thank you. So this is the iSpy breakout board. So all of our displays that we've been making lately, you know, people have said like, wow, you know, the quick STEM IQT stuff for iSquared C has been awesome, because it makes it so easy to plug in iSquared C sensors, no soldering, you get power ground data clock. Wouldn't be cool if you did the same thing for displays. And so the idea here is, is you can't use just wires, because you need a lot of pins for displays, because there's, you know, the SPI and the SD card and the touchscreen and the memory and reset and backlight. So basically, it's 18 pins. And if you look on, like this image, you'll see our 1.9 display, which I'm also going to demo, has a latchy connector on it. If you use this flex cable, and you can use a very long flex cable, because flex cables are pretty good at high frequency data passing, you can then easily wire up displays that are not right next to your screen. So, you know, normally I'd have solder and wire and plug it all in. But this is actually just plugged in via this flex connector. And I'll just show I'll just I'll disconnect with my magnetic USB cable. And then I'll show it's really easy to insert this cable in. We have these in various lengths from short, medium, long, and you can of course get flex cables very easily in other lengths. And then this is just a break it because you're like, Okay, well, I've got the cable, I still have to wire it up on the other side. But this way it's like, you know, you don't have to pass long cables for the data. There's also another issue people were having where they're like, Why am I not able to pass the 80 megahertz clock data so quickly through my jangly wires? It's like, well, you got jangly wires. This way, you've got nice short breadboard wires. And they go to the cable and the cable can snake out and then you can mount this wherever you like, without having to worry about cables hanging up. It's a much neater collection. Of course, we'll we'll have a little add-ons that are designed for feather wings and raspberry pi. But we want to start with the breakout board version. Okay, Doki. And then the stars issue tonight besides you, lady, our community, our customers, our staff, everyone here in data for to make things go community. This wonderful world is wait, what? We just did that one? Yeah, we did that one. Yeah. Now it's this one. Yay. The LT, the LTR three 39 and LTR three 30. These are this is a two, a two and one. These are very similar sensors. I just want to grab the, the magnetic cable. Yeah, so now my well, it's okay. They all look the same. Yeah, some of my my some of my photos got out of order sick. No, we should do magnetic stem is one day. We will we have those magnetic connectors. Okay. Yeah, these are kind of blending in the one right now. I know they're well everything. Okay, so the LTR three or three and the LTR three 29 are both light on I squared C digital sensors, they're good up to I think like 64 kilo lux. They both have adjustable gains and they have like different integration rates and measurement rates and they're just really nice little light sensors and they're very inexpensive. And here's just the demo showing get this stuff out of the way because there's a lot going on here. Yeah. The sensors have visible plus IR and then infrared diodes inside there's two channels and then you know when you cover them up that goes down and when you you can change the game just put you know basically it's up to 16 bits and depending on how bright you want it you can adjust the gain to give you a good range. They both have semi QT connectors. The drivers actually are living the same libraries. We have Arduino and circuit Python slash Python library so you can use it with any Arduino board you can use it with a Raspberry Pi single board computer desktop with the FT 232H etc. The 329 is the simplest version and then the 303 explain why I have both actually so originally I wanted to do the 329 because I was going to use it for a project and I thought let's make a breakout. The 303 is basically the same sensor but it has an interrupt pin and like you you know it's it really is just not connected on the 329 they only exist on the 303. You know do you need the interrupt pin if you don't go with the 329 if you do go with the 303 you know again the driver code is basically the same on the back you can cut the trace to get rid of the green LED. They only have one I squared C address. That said there is no simpler easier smaller light sensor that we found especially if you're going to replace we've got this to replace an analog light sensor and we want it to be extremely compact. This one's definitely smaller than the BH 1750 it's on the Vemmel 770 for sure which is huge and chunky and the code is very easy to use and it's a very simple interface and it kind of does everything you want. So you have two nice simple light sensors great for every day you know visible infrared and then you subtract them to get just visible light sensing and then if you want threshold interrupt support check out the 303. Alright, and that is new privacy.