 Hi, what's up you guys, this is your girl so with with bread and welcome back again to my youtube channel So today we are going to learn the pattern making for the lapel or aka notched collar in This tutorial I'm going to teach you guys the easiest way of pattern drafting for the lapel or the notched collar I will also teach you guys on how to properly sew the lapel for the part 2 of this tutorial Anyway to learn the pattern making for the lapel Make it sure to continue on watching this tutorial to see the full creative process These are the tools and the materials that I'll be using for this tutorial basic torso sloper back and front a pencil fashion rulers tracing wheel pattern papers Measuring tape and masking tape First, let's trace our front and back bodice torso or basic bodice By the way to those who are new to my channel I have a separate basic torso and basic bodice tutorials and I will put the links up here Anyway, make it sure that there's enough space on the top and the right side where we've traced our front basic torso or bodice We need enough space to draft the lapel and the collar Once we are done tracing the front and back sloper. We can now proceed to the next step From the front necktip, we will mark out or extend one inch or 2.54 centimeters This one inch will be our collar stand Next from the bust level of our basic torso or basic bodice mark up two inches or five centimeters This mark is where the lapel should overlap Label this depth Next from center front mark out one inch or 2.54 centimeters extension and Draw an extended vertical line. This one inch extension is where the buttons and the button holes are placed Next from the collar stand the one inch Draw a slant line passing through the mark at the bust level or the depth Ending or touching this line exactly at the one inch extension at center front This slant line here is called the roll line or the fold for the lapel and Where the roll line ends is called the break point the break point is where the fold of the lapel ends Later, you will understand once we move on to the lapel drafting Okay, so let's continue to the next step to draft the lapel first. Let's fold our paper along the roll line Next using your trusty tracing wheel. We are going to trace the front neckline After the tracing, let's open our paper again And by the way, we draw the trace front neckline to see it clearly From the trace front neckline following the curve extend 1 6 8 inches or 4.4 centimeters Make it sure to mark this notch Next from the last measurement that we did Extend a 2 inches or 5 centimeters horizontal line and Label this as the lapel tip From the lapel tip connect another slant line ending exactly at the break Point there you go Next mark the halfway between the lapel tip and the break point and From the halfway mark mark out two-eighths of an inch or point six centimeters From the two-eighths halfway mark using your ruler draw a slide curve going forwards the lapel tip and the break point And there you go guys. Now we have our lapel Next fold again our paper and trace the lapel using our trusty tracing wheel and Please do not forget to trace the important notches at the lapel and at the break point We will be using these notches for the sewing part. Okay? Okay, let's now move on to the next step Going back to the tip of the original front neckline Mark in two-eighths of an inch or point six centimeter And from this new measurement blend it in wards to the front neckline Do this as well on the back neck tip and blend this new measurement on the back neckline Using your measuring tape or flex ruler get the exact measurement of the back neckline and Record it. So going back to the front neckline again at the last mark We did extend a line for the back neckline From this new line mark and measure out the back neckline measurement that we got earlier Plus one-eighths of an inch or point three centimeter. By the way, use your own measurement for this one Next divide this line and mark it So at the end of the back neckline measurement Mark out on the left hand four-eighths of an inch or one point twenty-seven centimeters Next from the four-eighths mark Extend a slant line with the measurement of two six-eighths inches or seven centimeters and mark it Label this mark DCL short for back collar length and we will work on this later Let's leave it behind like this first also from the four-eighths mark draw a slide curve line connecting the halfway mark of the back neckline Next from the notch at the lapel. Yes, this one. We're gonna go back here again Draw a one six-eighths inches or four point four centimeters line Ending this line approximately six-eighths of an inch or two centimeters from the lapel This is the tip of the collar Next draw a slide curve from BCL going towards the tip of the collar Completing our collar from the center back collar at the edge mark up one inch or two point fifty four centimeters Using your curve ruler draw a curve line all the way down going towards the roll line off the lapel This Q line at the back is the roll line for the collar and it should be connected at all times to the roll line at the lapel By the way, if the fit of the collar is tight, we can divide the back neck of the collar into three lines Slash and spread these lines by two-eighths of an inch or point six centimeters and redraw and re-blend the collar Always check your collar on your dress foreign to see if the fitting is accurate or you're satisfied with it So now we are done with the drafting part for the lapel or the notched collar Anyway you guys, I hope this will help you with your upcoming projects And I hope you like this tutorial as much as I do and please don't forget to give this video a huge thumbs up and Subscribe to my youtube channel sew it with bread and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial