 All right so we got us a geothermal here. This is a pretty good size unit. We got floor loops basically is what this thing does to keep the garage area warm through concrete floor. And then we got our recovery tank here. So what we're doing is we've got a compressor here that's acting up. It's running but it's not pumping. So they're doing a lot of work outside. So let me go and get this door off here. All right so here's our compressors. Basically it's not wanting to pump the way it should. The amperage I had prior to on previous checks was around 41 to 37 amps. Now I believe it was around 16 amps area. I tried to reverse and then I tried to change in the phasing. None of it made a difference. Charge is fine. So we're going to go and get this thing recovered and we're going to get this thing changed out. This thing is capable of running in both modes but because it is water to water generally you don't cool the floor. So it's never going to run in that mode. So we're going to go ahead and get this thing recovered. Okay well I can probably weasel this thing out but I'm going to have to weasel it back in when it's all said and done. So we're going to make use of my little lift. All right once again I forgot my freaking bracket. I keep forgetting I need both of those L channels. One in the receiver and one on the pipe so that I can get a 90 degree bracket off of that. So say the least it made it work. Not probably the best thing in the world but it did work. So I got it out of the way so I can get my recovery machine and stuff out. I'll go ahead and get started. We're just doing it off of liquid line slash discharge line. You can feel it definitely coming through cold. You can say it's shaking every now and again so you know it's pulling liquid. You hear the machine kind of chugging a little bit before it starts dripping limit. If it starts dripping they have to pull out my cooler. This is about 14 pounds, 15 pounds, something like that. I've got a chainsie liquid dryer on this thing too. This thing is never going to run in the reverse mode so it's a standard direction dryer. So we got that in there. That's going to go in here on top and you've got to get that replaced but it could be a fairly easy one to get done. Everything's right in the front. It's convenient. I think the main thing I'll have to do is undo the connection here on the reversing valve. One of these fittings right here plus there. We'll have to remove our pressure switch so we don't melt it. I've done one of these once before. It wasn't too bad. I didn't even change that reversing valve. That was a lot of fun. Fairly decent size reversing valve. All right we're going to change this bleed valve here, auto bleeder. Going to valve it off there and obviously right there. That'll isolate it because it literally just comes out of the top over up and then boom. So we're going to get that change. That was not working well. So we got our new one ready to go. It's all primed up ready to roll. Just need to get the splash here. About 15 pounds of pressure. Come on baby. There you go. Leak a little bit. There you go. Come on. There shouldn't be that much. Come on. I guess it could be that expansion tank fight. And there it is. See if that helps. That's the problem. Expansion tank was screwing me. There we go. Now this one here can be tore apart and cleaned, which would be kind of nice if you ever need to clean it up. I think they're a little bit better quality. Open that back up. There we go. This valve won't get exercised ever. There we go. Got that change. Just got to label it yet. Make sure the cap's loose. That'll help out a little bit. It didn't lose any pressure, which is nice. That makes it a little easier to get into the side of it. Right in there. Here's your coax coil. One of them. The other one's back over in that corner there. The filter dryer and stuff's up in here. Let's get this thing purged out with some nitrogen. Get this thing unbrazed. Got them labeled on that there, so we've got it ready to go there. So I forgot my GoPro, and I don't have the tripod, so this can be a little hard to record, so you're just going to have to trust me on that. We're just going to probably undo it here and down here and then slide it to the left. That way I don't have to jack around with anything up in here. It won't be putting any heat on any of that stuff, so it'll work out fine. We do have our nitrogen flowing like a river, so you can feel it coming through. All right, so we got her out of there with my tip here. It's the number 15 by UniWeld 17-15. I have had nothing but problems with all this tip backfiring. I have made sure my acetylene and oxygen is set exactly per spec. 12 on the oxygen and 10 on the acetylene. After cleaning it with my brushes, and the brushes didn't do no good, so I washed out with water and then blew it out in nitrogen after that, and it actually started to work, but I don't like it when she backfires like that. It's kind of dangerous. So anyhow, got it out there, didn't take long at all, so I'm just going to yank this thing out. Like I said, we've got the nitrogen rolling there, so far so good. All right, so we got it out pretty much no problem. Just wiggled her out. We kept the back ones loose and fed that suction line up in there. I've got my fire script there to kind of hold it so it doesn't pop out on me when I'm trying to braise it in. All right, and this here is the fun part. Basically, it's all wrapped in all this flammable insulation. So we're going to cut what we can cut and unbraise what we can unbraise. Kind of put some shields in here and get that thing removed. All right, so we went ahead and got our hot block out. We've got it wrapped completely around the valve, which went ahead and wetted it a little bit. Sometimes it's a little hard to form it the way you want, so just add a little bit of water to it and form it in there and wrap it all around that one side to block the heat from getting to the valve and it should be okay and good to go. Otherwise, I'm going to put extensions in here to make up for where I cut it out at. This is not a burnout. It's just a defective compressor. It's not pumping correctly, so the inefficient compressor is our issue. So we're not really too concerned with cleanup or anything like that. We're just mainly wanting to do good practices. So that's what we're doing right now. So we're going to use the insurance pads. I've been using these for years. So I've got one wrapped around there. That one's wetted. This one's dry. This is going to just catch any over flame, basically, that might be out and about, but we're going to use that to isolate it. All right, so we was able to get in there. You can see the nitrogen worked. And the same thing over here. Not that I need you to verify it for me, but I can't quite get in there and get the perfect light necessarily in the studio. So I added a little extra water to my hot block air, which it did great. So we're just going to go ahead and continue purging through here with the nitrogen, get this new dryer in there, and we should be good to go. Okay, so now we're basically going to make sure we're on the right direction here for this dryer. So we're coming out of the hot gas discharge. It goes through here. It goes all the way back to the back. The backside is our load. So we're going to go through this coil. We're going to reject the heat into that water coil. We're going to come out of it now as a liquid, then into the TXV. So our flow is going to be coming this direction. And then that's the TXV for the other side there. But you can kind of see what we got going on here. All right, so we got it all insulated back up. We used most of it. Used foam tape for the rest of it. Got it in there. Now it's time to pull a quick vacuum. It started to evacuate here. So we're going to see how long this takes to get her down. This, I'm pretty sure it might be about a 15 ton. It says 137K down there. So we'll do some math on there real quick. It comes out to about 11.4 tons, but it wouldn't doubt it don't round up to maybe 15 with the efficiencies and stuff. So anyhow, like I said, we got everything changed. We're just now starting to pull the evacuation. This compressor actually has a cyclast down there, which you'll be able to see. The bubbles probably are the oil boiling. If we actually start getting a little lower, it'll probably make more of a difference. But she's going down there real quick. Just got to finish getting that last piece of insulation on there. All we had to do is re-braise it here and there and then at the dryer. Everything else is good to go. All right, so we're back here again. Let's go ahead and take a look at our temperatures. So we've got our gas discharge coming off the compressor here, 30 something. This is not real. Between here it's one to the right. So we'll go ahead and other compressor effects are going through the, see it's hot there on the left, cold on the left here. They're opposite. So we've got about the same temperature going through. Let me give you a little. Okay, so we're getting our bottle prep because we'll recover this thing. I've called the factory multiple times and they're hiding in a cave somewhere and can't answer their phone. So I'm going to go ahead and just get this thing cut out. The hot gas discharge comes off the compressor here, comes into the reversing valve. Like I said, I compared it to my other ones and the heat has been coming out on the left side. That's the easiest way for me to explain this. This one here has been going out on the left side. If you follow the piping, it comes through here. It goes all the way to the back. So when you walk around to the back here, you can see right there is your reversing valve up there. You follow that pipe right here, comes up, comes into the back side here of the water coil, comes in there. You can see, boom, comes into there, the distributor goes down, back up, down, back up, comes out up here on top, goes across to here, then through my filter dryer right here, which is what I just replaced and I had it pointing that direction. Then it goes to the other water coil, which is your source side. So our load is back here. So we want the hot gas to come into the load side of the coil. So we're just going to re-pipe around it. This is for the radiant heat in the floor. It never is going to try to cool the floor with cold water. So we are just going to get rid of that and move on down the line because the compressor's new. Like I said, my amperage before was somewhere in the 40, some amperage. I end up having like 16, the new ones, at least 26, 27 amperage. And I think we've got something going on with the reversing valve. What I believe happened was that it probably overheated the compressor. How the case that is, I don't know, but it was not a burnout. And basically, at this point, we're going to go ahead and just get it changed. There was no way to have known that because if you listen to it, the reversing valve will switch back and forth. But at this point, we're just going to undo it and get it removed. It's not necessary and we'll get them back up and going. So we went ahead and got the reversing valve cut out. Like I said, got that in there. Just was able to get away with 190 there, reducing fitting there and a piece of 7 eighths and a new 90 here on the elbow. Works perfectly. Works perfectly. The amp drawl was pretty much exactly the same as it was before. Now as it built up head pressure, it got up to around 30 amps and it was equivalent to what the other unit was running at. But as it built up even more head pressure, they both started getting more close to what I had originally. So basically had a bad reversing valve, which I would say the recirculation of the gas. When you look at the reversing valve, it don't look that bad, but it must have been dumping on itself some and it definitely didn't help it none. There was a lot of oil in the piping here and stuff. All right, that's going to wrap the video up, guys. Basically, what I ended up running into was a reversing valve and a compressor that was inefficient. Don't know if you caught it or not when I was describing things, but my previous amp reach on the old compressor was around 16 amps as it was acting up. Prior to that, I had as high as around 41, 42 amps area. So even with the new compressor, I had 26. So I had almost a 10 amp difference in a higher than what I had originally. So I would not agree with anyone that says the reversing valve was the only issue. Otherwise, it would have acted up the same way with the new compressor. They were the exact same model. Only thing different was the last three digits, which is a production thing. Otherwise, it's the same compressor. I didn't get a show it in the video, but when I did use the reversing valve and test it back and forth, it made the swish noise as it went from one side to the other. I did chop it in half and take a look inside here, or I should say I chopped it open to kind of look and see if I can move the switching mechanism back and forth, which I was able to. And even in the testing that I was doing, you could hear it swish back and forth. No problem. And it sounded normal. I did that multiple times in hopes that maybe it was that I tried even reversing the phasing of the compressor, thought maybe something weird had happened with that, but none of those things did anything to help me out. So I'm pretty confident in the fact that the compressor was inefficient. Why? I'm not 100% certain. I didn't tear the compressor apart, but it is what I needed to do to make the system run. I did have one setback with the reversing valve being an issue, but that geothermal will never need that reversing valve anyhow. So it's gone now and it's one less thing to have to worry about. So just for those new guys out there that are kind of getting new into the field, here's a reversing valve. This is kind of a little bit larger one than what you'll see in say a residential setting. This one here basically is the same. They're all the same. Nothing changes. Your middle is always your suction. Your opposite side here is always going to be your discharge gas. And basically all that happens is, is there's a U bend in here that's going to shift from here to here. So it's just going to be here to here or here to there. And then when it shifts over, it allows the gas to go one through here or let it go through here and go around that inside there. So it's not a whole lot too to them. They can be a pain in the butt to change. They can be a little difficult to diagnose sometimes if they do what this one did. Sometimes it's pretty obvious because they don't transfer back and forth the way they should or they don't transfer at all. Basically all it is, you have electric solenoid here that controls a valve mechanism here. It's using the discharge gas to push it this way or that way. And it relieves the differential into the suction here. That's it. Nothing much to it. So that's a reversing valve guys. They can be a pain in the butt. You don't want to overheat them. But then this one here, this is the second one I've had to change prior to this one. I actually seen the Mylar plastic that helps seal it was kind of coming apart. Now what I'm wondering is this thing probably never was ran in the other mode because you know this one here is for in floor. Now if they were using it for say, you know, air handlers or something, I could see it being switched back and forth quite often. And that's what the other one was that I repaired or replaced was that piece had worn out from all the switching back and forth. What I kind of wonder happened here is if that's got enough of a gap because you can hear it, that you know that maybe it just wasn't sealing very well and it was bleeding by, you know, raising your suction up, dropping your head down, you know, that kind of all goes along with it. They're like, I don't know if I mentioned it in the video, but there was a lot of oil up in this piping area a lot. You know, it was laying pretty thick in there, which tells me, again, we had lower flow than normal. Otherwise it'd be coming back. I mean, it just, it seemed like a lot more than what I would normally see in there. 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