 I've been walking with my shades off for so long I can't seem to get them back going Cause ooh, how I fell in love Could it's all I'm hearing is a song Morning, good evening, good day, good whatever time it is wherever you are, whenever you're choosing to watch this Hello, my name's Brian Hare I am here with Friestylen Education doing our live show I've got Matt back over here helping out Watching our chat, making sure that we keep things moving Cause that happens So yeah, Matt, before I jump into everything that I'm doing Your quick rundown on chat rules, how we like that done All right guys, so a couple of things If you have a question, type Q, put in your question In the chat And that way we're seeing the chat kind of from everywhere So make sure that you're just typing a Q Put in your question and then I'll ask it to Brian as we go Just make sure you get as involved as possible in the chat I don't care if you just type letters, whatever it is The more you guys chat and talk The bigger this room will grow That's how social media works So this is a free class All we ask is that you share the class And you get involved and be a part of it We love building this community And that's kind of what it's all about So type Q, put in your question If you have any other things Also the OGs in the room The people that have been watching us for a long time And they're always involved in these classes If people in the chat have a question about Where to buy the tools or what our website is Or what the app is Just please type it in the chat Help us out Tell people where to go to kind of get more involved In the free salon education community But you guys got a good class coming up here with Brian So I'm super excited to have this weekly thing So here we go All right, so it's me And I was talking to Matt And he said, what do you want to do? And I said, I really wanted to do a class Of just Baleage 101 Not getting too hard into an exact technique Or an exact look or anything like that I just wanted to take it all the way back Because I feel like my heart just lives so much With Baleage because I was thinking over this story To remember to tell for this So back, I want to say it was almost eight years ago It was definitely the first year That I was working here I had heard of Baleage But there was like nothing on it And I remember when I tried to Google it The only images I could find was this newscaster Who, like, I forget where she was Like America, Midwest somewhere And she wanted highlights And her hairdresser said, well, let me do this And there were two pictures There was a picture of her after And a picture of the lightener Just like sitting on her roots And I was fascinated by it And there was no education online for it So I just started doing it on mannequins And figuring it out And I'll never forget the morning that I worked up the nerve To lie to my client and say That I've been doing this for years Just let me, like, throw a couple of these highlights on you And I, like, held my breath in a hope and a prayer And then when I rinsed her out, I loved how it looked So I started, you know, doing it a little bit more And coming up with a technique, you know Discovering that certain things came out looking better And then there started to become more educators More education on it in general I remember, you know, Candy Shaw was one of my first ones And it made me feel good watching her videos Knowing that what I was doing seemed to be done for a reason Because she was doing it that way, too And I was like, okay, good So this works And over the years, you know, I've just found ways To tweak it and hone it And really turn it into something That no matter what the situation is You find a way to make it work That being said, I am gonna go over what products I'm using today to create this But I don't want you to think that that's the only way When I taught myself how to do this eight years ago Bollyard's Bleach didn't even exist Like, I had to do this on, you know, with foil bleach So it is possible But today I'm hopefully gonna go over the kinds of things That you need to just tweak So whatever your situation is, you're gonna be able To get the job done So this is my lovely model This is my after lasagna As we're... That's becoming a thing now that I guess I left her hair mostly straight Because I didn't want to... I didn't want it to look like I was hiding anything We've discovered that in comments before But I couldn't do it perfectly straight Because I just don't love perfectly straight hair So I at least did curl the front So everyone that thinks that Bollyage Always has to result in an ombre I divided this head down the middle And did it specifically to show you That it doesn't have to be So on one half of the head I've done it in the form of just Like bands of color Almost like you would expect from a foil highlight Like a weave And on the other I did all V-shaped highlights That do result in a little bit more Of an ombre, natural, like darker to lighter look Just to show you that you can go both So I'll show you the stripe side first And so you know The way that we get these mannequins colored Is I take a blonde mannequin And then I color over it with like a demi or a glaze first So that when I highlight it The highlights really pop So you'll notice In some places it does look a little strong That doesn't mean that your Bollyage Is going to come out stripy Just know that it can if you want it to If you're looking for something bolder You got this So this is the side That it's somebody if you're transitioning From a typical foil They don't necessarily want all their ends later They'd like an actual highlight That's why I wanted to make sure That this side was done as well Because you need to understand That Bollyage is a way to apply a highlight It's not a specific highlight Does that make sense? Because people are like oh I want a Bollyage Well Bollyage is a technique It's if you want highlights And you want them hand painted When I talked to my guest about these highlights I just had this conversation last night You know my client came in and New client she's explaining to me That she likes to stay on top of getting her hair done But she's getting ready to set the kid off to college So she's not looking to necessarily go broke And be in here every five minutes Getting her hair done So I said this is going to be a really great Technique for her Because we can give her the pow The pizzazz Like the real exciting energy That highlights have But in a nice soft way That if she wants to wait three months To get her hair touched up It's just going to become a different look Not necessarily a look grown out and sad So that's one way that you can talk to your guests About it if that's if you know Money or time or anything like that That's why this makes a good alternative If that's not a reason that's on the table I love doing this with guests Because it always just looks effortless You know that that hand paint It gives it rather than you know A very formal start line like a foil does It just sort of like becomes a highlight You go from whatever the route is Into that light energy So over on this side of the mannequin I definitely went a little stronger Using V shape sections Which will go over momentarily That end up resulting in Mostly having lighter ends Which I am a really big fan of anyway in color Just because naturally that's what hair is going to do If you just apply you know Like a single process routes to somebody And never do the ends Naturally they're going to lighten through the ends Just like hair does normally So whatever your look that you're going for Be it you know highlights While still having their base color Running throughout it even in the lengths We've got that option Or if you're looking for more of a Kind of an ombre look We're going to go over that option as well So I'm putting the lasagna away for a minute And I've made an executive decision for us For as long as possible I'm going to keep coloring the same mannequin So this was our beautiful foil model from last week She loves her highlights But now she wants to try something a little bit more She wants to add a little more to this Another layer So she this pretty much looks like You know this is how people come in They're dry and they're like sorry I didn't wash my hair for a week I was getting my hair done That's that's her today So fun She does still have her center part That is not because of pressure from Gen Z It's just because that's where her hair falls So don't get that twisted I am going to do the same thing On one side I'm going to show you my stripes On one side I'm going to show you my Vs But first and foremost I'm going to show you my consistency I didn't mix it up yet Because consistency is something that is super super important I am using skylights from Paul Mitchell So this is a clay base lightener That's made for balayage Now what that means The whole clay base What you're expecting from that If you're using a clay base You need to understand that in your application You need to go a little bit heavier with Well I'll show you Clay base means like it's going to Harden on the outside somewhat Creating a little bit of an environment For the highlight to lift So to answer Tara's question The difference between them Clay lighteners tend to not swell Which is nice Because back when I was using just regular old Lightener on doing balayage You had to be very very careful and cautious Because wherever you painted it Lightener does like to puff up a little bit And you didn't want it touching hair That you weren't intending for it to touch Because back when I got this whole started There was nothing to put in between your sections Just like I'm not going to use today Because I want you to see everything Personally When I'm using clay lightener for my balayage Which is typically all I use anymore Now that I don't have to use a regular lightener I like a nice thick consistency I like to think of it like I don't want to say spackle because that's too thick I actually just used spackle recently And that's way too thick I like toothpaste maybe Like that nice Toothpaste that you've gotten wet That you're about to brush your teeth with Like that few seconds that toothpaste Before it becomes foam That's what I like to see I'll show you in my bowl here Notice I'm using a little rubber spatula It was just a trick that I got From Lacy Whirly years ago That I absolutely loved It does Whip the lightener more so than aerate Like a whisk does In my mind It just comes out such a great consistency Plus it helps conserve So like you're not wasting a ton Because I am able to scrape everything Off the side of the bowl And get my nice little Toothpaste consistency So you see nothing's coming out Good We're in there I like this consistency Because it's going to stick to the hair As I apply it But be thick enough That it's going to give me a really nice highlight All right, so Isn't it Dairy Queen or something? Like they turned the ice cream upside down Yeah, I was the blizzards, I think The blizzards, yeah Like look at that, yeah well That also means I can't get it through a straw So, thanks Other than Dairy Queen We have any questions to start off? What are we doing, all right? So there's a question from Michelle Just saying how do you feel about teasing? And I think, Harry? That's fine I mean, last week I was doing some teasing highlights Typically when I tease Because it's giving you that softness It's built in I'll just go ahead and do a foil Because It's going to soften that line for you anyway And then, you know You've got like the incubation of the foil Because that's the one thing With balayages, you don't get a ton of incubation So, it really is That doesn't mean you can't get somebody light It just means that you really have to pay attention To your application So we'll start going over application Instead of just talking about it Let's find our mannequin placement here See the overhead Yeah, yeah See if you can push that to the center This would be fine Oh, good job, I love it I play video games, I know how this works There we go, that's good I'm the master of the right thumb Camera controller On all video games, so we're good Oh, okay I'm just going off of When I, like I said This isn't necessarily about A placement today, but I like to do my balayage off of Whatever part they come in with Because generally that means That's how they're going to wear their hair Because they at least did that day So You all know by now I'm a huge Moneypiece fan So I like to go off their part And really just hit that hard Okay Question Answer Do you increase developer strength To Clay Lightner? Generally I always use 40 Period Like I, because I do it so much I've learned what to expect from that Right now this is only 10 volume That is just because I'm not looking to Like go hard on her I'm really just looking to use her As my My model Like I'm not going to be giving This is not going to have a finished look That's why I did that mannequin I just did 10 so that I can continue To use her for many weeks to come Until she just looks at a haggard mess With a million applications on her But generally I just use 40 because You need a higher volume to get lift Because you're not getting incubation So You know, just go 40 Just do it I'm usually a 10 to 20 in foils And a 40 to 40 in balayage Cool Cool I thought so Alright, I'm just getting myself a nice Decent panel to work on Before I turn this around and show you Beautiful foil work in here My goodness Why would she switch to balayage? Alright, which side do you want me to come? You know what? I feel like I'm right-handed So I feel like I should be coming this way Yeah Shout out to all my lefties like my brother So with a lot of clay lighteners When you mix it up Momentarily Then it's going to get a little bit stiffer So keep that in mind Because I do I want it stiff But I do need it still workable If it's too thick Then that's not going to be It's not doing us any favors So I've got my paddle Give myself some to work on Working with a tool like this is great Because it does help For moving quickly And it just keeps lightening right there So I can just keep working Grab some and go Grab some and go Rather than chasing a bowl around You know, every time I need to apply more Alright, so For starters We're just going to start on some nice bands Just to show you my application One thing that I see happen a lot Is that people think that Balayage application Is smashing color into your section The way that I like to word it Just to get a better visual Of what you're planning on I want Balayage I want the hair To take the lightener off my brush So I'm not pressing I'm letting I'm just getting close enough For the color to come off Think of it like the bristles Shouldn't even touch the hair More? Oh, okay I got you Oh, yeah, because you'll see the red better Alright That's why we're a team Because you've been doing this for a thousand years I'm just going to do this Bear with me, folks Okay So now you'll see I'm just going to grab Some hair Grab myself a little section When you're deciding how big of a little section to grab That's going to be based off of One, how you want it to look But two, also the density Like if they have a lower density of hair And you grab, you know A small little chunk like this But you're able to see through it Your Balayage might get a little spotty So grab a section That once you pinch to apply Is going to hold firm So What I was talking about with my application I'm going to get some color on the brush Now Where are we at? Trying to get that just right So you can see The lightener is a little Piled up Nice trickery So you see the lightener is piled up on the brush That's what's going to be being applied to the hair That little dome We're going to wipe The bristles close to the hair So that the hair takes the lightener off Cool? So again Keep a nice firm Give yourself something to really work on here And then let the hair just take The lightener off the brush I'll start a couple inches from the scalp And I'll sweep towards myself While moving closer to the root Until I've decided that's as close as I want my highlight You can get right up to the head If that's what you're trying to do You can give yourself a little bit of space For a rooted look You decide exactly where this is going to go For the control freaks out there like me This is a really great method of doing highlights So I'm applying it Watching to make sure that anytime you get these little jump skips That happen a lot on highlights with mannequins Just take that off No big And then just come down with the hair And just follow wherever you're holding with your fingers And then I use the other side of my little paddle Keep in mind, this is where you get to make your decisions On how you want this to turn out If you're looking for lighter ends just all over throughout Then as you come down to the bottom What I'll do is I'll spread out the section a little bit With my brush And make sure that I've got lightener applied on top Underneath throughout So now this highlight is going to go from being applied on top As it comes down Now it's saturating the full ends So think about what that's going to look like when it's done And then you go, yeah, that's going to look good I like that And then I'll use my little brush to just help guide it Is that how you say that? No, that's absolutely the only way to say it If that's the only thing you take away from today That's then you're welcome I like to use my tools because I don't want... Oh yeah, that's something that I didn't go over that section So we'll go over it in the next section Elevation, also very important When you are applying balayage, do not forget That eventually you're going to be up towards the top of the head And you're going to have highlights down low And this is out in the open It's not in a foil So you need to be careful Because you put all this thought into how this is going to come out You apply this so that it's going to look gorgeous The last thing you want to do is smash hair on top of that highlight Because if it touches it, it's going to start bleaching And it's going to turn weird because it's unintentional So that's where elevation comes in I like to get everything elevated as straight off the head 90 As you can from where it lives Not 90, like always 90 90 from where it's coming out of the head Straight off So what that's going to do As I apply my lightener onto this section When I let it go It's going to hold together And it's going to cause that section to buckle a little bit So that it won't press down on the section beneath it We'll do another one just to show you what I'm talking about See, little kiss It happens It's going to happen every single time You just got to keep an eye out Be aware of what you're doing You can't really check out what you're doing this Because you're designing something That's working on this person's haircut So again, got that nice straight out elevation That lets it gently lay down And that way, if there's a highlight underneath It's not smashing against it And I think another thing we talked about, Brian Because you do use a wrap or a Saran wrap Yes We're going to show that application Next week, right? And next week? They'll be able to see that This is more about the painting Yes, this is more about how I like to see this get done Or like me, I don't ever use wrap when I volioge So I use this technique to kind of keep it away from the other hair I like using the wrap Well, really, I just like using the wrap, period But especially if I'm not just accenting If I'm going through and doing there If that's their color Is just a full head of volioge And there's just tons and tons of painting Having something in between Is going to just keep things in order Okay, so now we've gone over consistency, elevation Now the other really big one is saturation So when somebody asks like 40 A lot of question marks like That does seem kind of extreme Because we don't typically use 40 as hairdressers all the time It just seems like, well, it's there But like, when do you use that beyond beauty school? Well, now is when you use that So I'll mix 40 and I will change the lift That I can expect from each highlight Based on my saturation So in kind of going back to what I was saying About how clay lighteners will almost dry out on top Creating an environment underneath that little dome Of lightener on the hair When that dries out If there's hair that's a part of that It's not going to keep getting lighter It has to be in the little environment To keep getting lighter So if you're looking for a highlight That's not necessarily going to blast super, super bright That's cool, you can still do that with your 40 I'll show you Oh, Carly Olive Garden's eight years old All right, so in my application Applying a little bit more pressure Isn't going to make it lighter It's actually going to make it less light So it's kind of counterintuitive For how you would think But I'll show you what I mean So I've got my little dome And in applying it, if I press firmer That's when you'll actually start to see The hair come through On the highlight that I've painted You notice these other sections It looks like frosting on a cake Or a cupcake You can't really see any individual hairs But in here, by pressing firmer I can see those hairs coming through So what that means That's going to give me less lift I can't really break it down and say Exactly this many PSI of pressure Is going to give you like a 10 volume versus a 40 I'm just explaining to you That the easier you can see the hair in there The less lift you're going to get And you get that look by pressing firmer So a good hard smooch And I can see that hair Sometimes that's what you want Sometimes you're not looking to necessarily Blast somebody up to an 11 This will just give a nice little on tone bump I can't guarantee that This will just give your color a bump Don't come for me when you accidentally get warmth Did you see that somebody commented 40 With a bunch of exclamation points In question marks? Yeah Oh, you did, okay I just thought that was random No, I saw it I was trying to find it as you were saying it I was like searching through I'm like, where was that comment? That's hilarious And then I couldn't find it, but No, I saw it and you're right Because before this like 40 was like, whoa Yeah I only use that on myself When I want to fry my hair off And now it goes just as fast as 20 volume does In the salon because we've discovered So I don't know Can you Turn this to see I just want you to see the difference In how these two look sitting side by side So this highlight over here Is going to give you significantly more lift I mean, both of those really Because while it's applied You're not really seeing the hairs themselves Through the lightener Whereas over here I can see quite a bit of the hair through So this, when that outside Starts to dry up a little bit It's going to stay moist Forgive the word Inside So it's going to keep lifting Until I wash it off Because once most clay lighteners dry out They stop working So doing this That's going to dry out much faster Because it's a thinner application I don't have like A blob of lightener on there So that's going to give me It's going to lift But it's not going to go as light as that It's going to stop when it decides It's going to stop when I decide That's the difference Leah's got a good question During the application When you heavily saturate Can you bricklay to get that dimension within the hair? Oh absolutely I Next week I'm going to be doing a class That's going to be like More targeting spots on the head Of really good spots to hit for highlights So yeah bricklaying is cool I like to keep my I like to keep my highlights Throughout I want it to look like a nice natural look And I think That's one reason that I love this so much Bricklaying keeps it from looking too uniform Versus when you do a typical section That they teach us in beauty school for foiling And okay it all looks And perms same thing You know if Getting in there and like changing up where it is Is what makes it look more natural Alright so I'll do one more I don't know why I just took that down I'll do one more of these guys On my stripes With a little less So when I take this section I'm also not painting the whole top of it You notice like I'm just grabbing A random I don't even know what that shape is at the root Because I don't care Because it doesn't really matter I'm looking for a natural look So don't stress yourself out Like I understand that certain people need like Super details Well this is some place where you get to decide If you want that to be a star shape And you want to carve out a star shape And like you do it You make your little star love and heart happy I just grab a nice little section And then I like to work off of the edge Of it Rather than painting the whole top I'm just gonna work on the little edge Yes we're gonna saturate underneath In the next section with the V shape applications So again in here We're gonna combine the two I'm gonna press a little bit firmer up at the root For a little less lift So I can see the hair coming through Grab your little Grab your guys Just keep it So now that won't lift and we'll be fine I'm gonna give a little more pressure up here So I don't get as much lift But then as I travel down the section I am gonna start lightening How firm I press So that the hair just takes it off the brush I just go, here you go Have some lightener It's like a high five With a transfer of lightener And a nice little paint over the top And now you can see in one section Let me try to turn it In one section we've gone from A lighter application into a much heavier one So that will do the same thing When it's done lifting It's gonna have like, let's start lifting And then yeah Blonde, what's the These are all very technical terms You wouldn't believe the amount of Like people were saying Just from one class with you How many t-shirts that need to be put out Based on, no one's ever said that to me On one of my classes But after yours I'm getting messages That should be on a t-shirt Lasagna should be a t-shirt Let me go ahead, I'm down That's- I'll give you royalties on your t-shirts There you go That's what I love about Just like the difference of How Matt and I do things Matt's very structured and technical In like every aspect of how he does hair And I am not so much Just because that's how This is what I do, I like this And my verbiage When we're in the salon Working next to each other I'm pretty much just over there Shaking my head the whole time And he's having a grand old time It's a good time I remember the first salon I ever worked at When I was just like a cute little apprentice There was this extraordinarily talented I've never seen anybody that can do Scissor over comb like this woman This Russian woman And she was very serious all the time She said, when I get on the floor She's like, when you get on the floor I want you next to me I said, oh, I was so flattered I was like, okay, why? She goes, I don't like to talk to my clients You'll entertain them I was like, oh, okay, cool You're welcome That is the truth, though Okay, so I'm not pressing down Normally this is where I would put something in between If that's what you're into But I don't have any because I ran out Because I actually do use it all the time And I think it's coming in today Wait, read this comment So what is it? Oh my God, that's so funny All right, well, here you go Show them the video I'll be like, I like this or don't do this Whatever You're like, could I have stripes over Vs? Because now we're going to go over Vs So get ready Don't sign anything yet So the Vs are how I originally really got into Balayage Because ombre was super huge back then That's what my first video that I ever put out was Me doing Balayage without a Balayage lightener Creating an ombre So this is going to give more of the ombre effect If you so choose to do it that way Or in certain sections if you choose to do it that way Whatever, use your little artistic heart So now, instead of just grabbing a random chunk I'm going to take a V So I've got my point here I'm going to make a point here And then dip it down in the middle It's not going to be an exact V Or a capital V or whatever It can be a U if you want Just get the point of what I'm saying So I've got point, point, thick in the middle Yeah The opposite of Sir Mixolot's preferences Okay, so I am now giving myself A little bit more space to work Because I'm creating these Vs So a way to think about this When you're doing a V Do I need to tilt her head So you can see it a little better Or is this an overhead kind of thing? Overhead might work Let me just move her clip All right, and then move her Oh, sucka There it is Okay, so when you're creating this type of look Because now we are going to be saturating the end I'm going to be applying a highlight on one edge I'm going to be applying a highlight on the other edge And then they're going to come together And lighten through the ends of the hair So what you need to take into consideration Is where you're going to hold the hair Where you're going to pinch Because wherever you've got your pinch From there through the ends Is going to be your lightness So if you're looking to make their hair super light Then you're going to pinch closer to the root If you want a little bit more of their root color to show Then you're going to want to slide down the section a little bit Because then this is where the two blonde highlights will converge And then create light ends Also keep in mind if that's what you're going for Maybe considering a different application Because coming all the way down here Leaves you a very bouncy section And like the bouncier this is The more chance there is for things to get wild So I'm going to come about halfway Get my little dome going I like it And then just let the hair take it Take it, take it Work up towards the root a little bit Clean up after myself Whoever is calling me right now Rude, I'm working They obviously don't know you that well Yeah, they should know you It's probably like someone calling me for my like COVID vaccine I'm like I'm busy doing highlights So along each edge of the section Same principles as before Now we're just doubling it up So where these two blonde lines come together I just let them come together Don't force it, don't Laugh because then things just get a little wild and crazy If you let them just come together Where your fingers are holding the hair You're going to be so happy with how much more natural this comes out Now when it comes to saturation Because we are creating a nice dark to light look You might want to consider saturating underneath You don't have to But if you do want to This is how I like to go about that Make sure that you've got Boku lightener on top Because we're about to spread open this section And get all that hair in between So I'll use my brush to transfer it over to my little paddle And then I just kind of just lightly spread it If you bust it apart Then you're going to be screwing all this up But I just lightly spread it So that I know that I'm getting in there And then just give it that nice same saturation That you were giving the rest of the highlight As I'm slowly dragging it through I can feel it Picking up highlight from underneath as well Don't skimp Do it right And then I'll just check Yeah, I'm good We're pretty saturated I don't know Are you going to switch me to Ah, I almost got it I got this And then I check Hold on, I'll do it this way So you can see that underneath Using the corner of the paddle Kept it from being a harsh line So now underneath It's also going to diffuse and lighten As it gets through to the end I have never seen a balayage video do that So you are welcome So again, use your visualization For very visual people, hairdressers So look at this And understand what that's going to do highlight-wise She's going to keep her root color But she's going to have it broken up by some nice highlights And then as you go through the lengths of the hair It's just naturally Naturally Our natural Our natural Going to get lighter So, does that make sense? We good? We good All right, I'll do another one Playing with saturation Again, I've got my shape Be it a U or a V or a W I don't care I feel like Lisa has a great question What's up Lisa? What if you're on the slower side of applying How do you control the first section From over-process? Well, unlike my class last week Because I had that exact same thing I feel you This does take time to get like your groove Starting with the back is always great Because, you know If for whatever reason It does take longer than you expected And you're worried about over-processing Then you can always rinse the back I have noticed Hold on I'm going to say something really bold I got to make sure that I can back it up I can't think of any cases right now So I'm just going to cover my own A And say very seldom Have I over-processed someone to the point of Oh my god, my heart stops When doing balayage It's happened much more with on the scout bleach And it's happened much more with foils Than it's ever happened with balayage Because it does tend to be gentler Because it doesn't have the incubation That a foil does to just keep going forever I also am a big proponent of using Like Olaplex or whatever your preferred Little bond building whatever Just because I do have so many people that I'm doing this on them Every month, every six weeks, whatever So I am painting Lightener, over-lightener, over-lightener Because the greatest thing about doing a balayage highlight Is that it does look really pretty the first time you do it But every time you do it, it looks better Because you're adding another layer of dimension to it And so it's just getting like areas where it's brighter Areas where you're starting to get more depth It's just, it's a really really cool technique So just, you know, take it slow Don't rush yourself, don't freak out Because it really is about how you are applying it That's going to make you However happy you're going to be at the end All right, cool I'm into it, thanks How'd you like it? So on this section again I'm going to play We'll do this side With more pressure Therefore less lift When I do normal clients I keep this section much tighter This mannequin is not holding tight Because when you bump that with the brush Things start to happen Where are we going? I'm just really strong These muscles aren't just for show All right, so on this side You know, it's about halfway It's not super super firm But I am seeing some So if you were to sit there and think of it as like a 10 versus 30 versus 40 This is going to be like a mid-lift Because I don't see tons of hair coming through But there is some And then as you get down through the end A little bit higher application I mean a little heavier application And then over here What's cool about doing sections like this With the V is they don't have to match Like you can really get artistic here And you know make one side really heavy If that side's closer to the face or the hairline And then the other side of the V Not quite as heavy It's just all about what you want it to look like So you have to approach this Thinking about what you want the final look to look like And then this time instead of a full saturation I'm really just going to do it on top Because that's fine That also works That makes it so that we've got a nice bold highlight Because it's the V But it's not super ombre Because underneath is not bleached all the way out Through the lengths of the hair One thing I do want to hit on As far as like relating this to haircuts If somebody comes in And they're going to be getting a cut That is drastically different Than what they're sitting down at You might want to cut first Because how you pull these sections How you hold all this They're layering or their haircut Their whatever is going to dictate What hair you're grabbing So like this is a layered haircut right now So as I'm highlighting it I'm highlighting a layered haircut But if I wash her out And she's getting like a blunt bob afterwards It's not going to translate It's not going to accent the haircut itself It's going to accent the haircut that she walked in with So in that consultation figure out Like if we're just kind of keeping the same shape And just trimming off the ends All right cool then go for it We're just going to no big deal You don't really have to change that much But if it is going to be a very extreme change Because highlighting with a hand-painted technique Works on every haircut If it's a pixie or you know my hair I'm actually going to talk to Matt About highlighting his hair today Don't tell him But like also put the pressure on him Not going to happen It's going to happen Let's get this Let's get that t-shirt Not going to happen Brian But it works for everything You just need to have the general idea Of the haircut that you are working on On there All right I think I'm pretty good Like I just wanted to make sure I don't want to go again too much into Where to put these I really just wanted to go over how to put these And I've hit Consistency Elevation Saturation Matt do you have any questions All right do you prefer a stiffer application Brush or softer one There was a lot of questions about the brush So that one is really going to depend On the lightener that you use It's there is going to be a growing pains period for you Everyone's going to find their favorite Some clay lighteners Like the sunlights balayage Their brush is much stiffer Because their lightener is much stiffer So that works really well As far as working through the product And holding it and holding firm So that the hair can take the product off the brush This particular lightener the sunlights It is a little bit softer and creamier Of a lightener So the fact that this brush Is a nice soft feathery brush With a little bit of stiffness Let's see There you go It gives me a little bit of give So that as I apply to the hair It's not fighting to press down too hard into the hair So if whatever lightener your A lot of there's a lot of money and time Has gone into rnd So whatever company's lightener you're using If they make a brush try that one first Because there's a good chance that That's probably going to be the best one For whatever company you're using I think that's a fair question Good answer I got that I thought I had bleach on my face What did I do? Balayage Yeah Cool I think that was a good answer We're all getting highlights today Well because I was thinking I was like yeah that makes sense Yeah Yeah I've never said that before That sounds good Oh thanks Rene It's your apostrophe R.E. He's that guy I lived with an English teacher for years It happened I'm sorry Everybody wants blue I'm never going to have blue highlights Blue highlights I didn't even think about that I just was thinking blonde Back in the day I've never seen you with fantasy color No I mean it has a high school I had punk rock days Punk rock days All right so now I open it up to you guys We got a little time left I think I hit all the points that I wanted to As far as mixing application And all that goes I want you to take that knowledge And create your own Diagram Your own pattern on a head Start with just one or two highlights on somebody If this is your first time And you're a little nervous You know don't go You don't have to go hard the first time You know take it easy Dip your toes in Build that comfort And with that comfort it's going to come speed And it's going to come the confidence to know That like you got this I missed that question What was that? Yeah it's coming back Trying to uh How do you handle the hair Getting wrapped up in the brush as you apply That's a good question Because it happens a lot on mannequins And it actually happens a lot on people So I'll show you I have a section right here I'll kind of show you Like what that question is addressing Is the fact that sometimes when you're working When you go to move up It's going to grab some hair I'll try to grab a little So it's going to grab some hair And then that just When that happens Things start getting real messy real fast So my advice If you see that they've got hair Whether it's the haircut or what That's starting to grab Don't go up Because that just sucks If they've got the kind of hair That's grabby grabby Then push it back into the section By just following through on your sweep So apply We've grabbed some hair No Just smooth it back out into the section Smooth it back out Because oh I forgot to say that Balayage is French for sweeping So just remember that Just sweeping And then when you pick it up It goes right back down to where it's supposed to be And then you can go right back to work Great question Because they hate when that happens But it's an easy fix What do you mean top placement I mean yeah I'll do everything Oh up here yeah yeah yeah Toads Next week I think I'll be doing a little bit of that We'll be we'll be touching on that next week Oh sorry my mic wasn't on But just so you guys know Brian is live He'll be live every Wednesday at 10 a.m. Doing these classes for color so So just make sure you tune in set your alarm Come play with me Yeah And then why don't you wear gloves Um because I don't have nerves in my fingers No I'm just kidding Um I don't wear gloves because I again The control freak in me I want to feel every single hair So that as I travel down to the end I know exactly how much hair is left in my fingers I was the same way back when I used to Work with the wand a lot Like every wand came with gloves And I would cut the fingertips off of them Which defeats most of the purpose Because I just like to Know how much hair is left as I'm traveling down And I can't get that with gloves You can wear gloves to which to The way that you are doing balayage too with the paddle You're not really touching the lightener Yeah I mean I get a little bit That just happens naturally But because that literally happens to everyone This does not mean I'm messy It just means I'm doing my job Like for me I'll do When I do balayage I'll have One of my hands will have a glove The one that I kind of paint on too Because I don't use a paddle So like just kind of paint through it But you use a paddle so it kind of replaces that It's so funny Matt's so good at knowing That he only needs one glove But I can never remember which hand Only needs the one glove So like you know Say I'm about to run out of gloves I only have one left I inevitably always put it on the wrong hand Oh It's like I'll put it on the hand And then this one's covered in six ends Ah come on And again Brian's live every Wednesday 10 a.m. Eastern Standard Time Yeah What is your advice for application around the face We're going to be probably going over that next week I would assume right Yeah I'm going to do some stuff Yeah just you know Think about where you're going It's not so much Think about what kind of Highlight you want You know are you Just looking to do like a couple of Bands like we did Or are you looking for more of a dramatic flare Like the V gives you Yep And processing times That I don't know That's my bosses have been after me for years Because when I book this I book enough time so that if they're that person That takes 45 minutes to lift I have it Because it's different It's different for everybody It depends on what you're lifting It depends on how late you want to go It depends on if you've got the bolly wrap in between Because that helps keep it moist So it keeps going and going and going It depends if you want to put them under heat It depends if you're leaving it out in the open There is no one answer that covers that So for you and your product And what you're using Just start Just watch it Babysit it Yeah and I think the number one thing would be If you look at like Because for me it's not about the initial visit So like when you book out You could book out extra time Because you don't know Then once you know your client And you know that Then understand specific times So when you do place them in your book You're not just taking up too much time I mean but just know That starting out with this You need a little wiggle room Because you've got to find your flow with this This is a very like organic cool chill Super involved process and technique So get into it Like have the fun with it Another good thing to think about is That Boliage lighteners kind of lie a little bit Like so when you look at it It might look a little bit lighter because they Yeah because it's white Just like when you look in a foil and it's like Oh it's white and then you rinse it's like Oh no it's yellow Yeah so just let it go maybe a little bit longer than you think And the other good thing about Boliage lighteners is It's very hard to over process Yeah Their open air highlight is harder Just in general they're much gentler Yeah even with 40 volumes so Yeah And then if you're throwing Olaplex or something in there You're good That was another question to use Olaplex I do That's one thing that I definitely have to always go back in And add more powder Because Olaplex is a very watery liquid That you know I'll get my nice consistency And then I'll add my Olaplex And then it's too wet So then I'll add more powder To get it back to the consistency That I'm comfortable working with Look you already rebooked somebody Michelle Yes She'll be here at 10 am Me too Thanks Michelle All right I think we answered Alicia Yeah Beardly Auge That's funny So we didn't actually say exactly how much time but Just allow yourself some time But what do you book like for an initial visit You've never met the person before Um If it's just Boliage I will not book less than two hours If it's Boliage and a haircut I will not do less than two and a half Because If there might be toning involved There might be And then even if that two and a half hours I mean I have one client who comes in for Boliage I cannot do her in less than four hours Because she's got hair down To her butt crack And You know that first time I book two and a half hours It's like all right cool I'm gonna give you What I can get done in that amount of time That's why it's good to To know yourself and learn your skills And what you're able to create And what you're able to do So you can be honest Be like yeah I love your super long hair But we're just gonna do like That's it Oh it is All right You want to see the lasagna Put the noodles away It's time for lasagna So now you can see A little bit of what I was saying Oops nope This side was my Vs Let me step in Stop Don't look at my things So over here where I did the Vs You see the hair travels from the dark Into just pretty light through the ends And then over here where I just did the bands It's much more of a traditional highlighted look Because it's got her base color worked in Even all the way through the ends That's not a sure enough Yeah I was just something that I Last week I said it's like a cooking show Where I just take the noodles and I put the noodles in the oven And then all of a sudden it's lasagna Because you're not going to sit here and watch it cook Because that's not fun So there's my pile of noodles over there That I just put together for you And then here's the delicious lasagna afterwards So thank you guys so very much I will see you next week And I'll see you uh Oh come check me out on my Instagram Hold on I just I'm gonna Yeah hold on Line it up Should get a hat Should get an hat Hat too right there on my wrist So that's like really into it Okay thank you guys