 Hey guys Brian here here. We got our model Jensen We're doing a really cool block color technique for her to set her up for a really great haircut from Matt and It's one of my favorite techniques to do on any kind of long hair because it's a really great way to showcase a Really nice layering world while working with the round of the head. I Call it parentheses because for me that's the best way to visualize exactly what the block color and looks like Going off of where her part is. We've got slightly off to her part here Right through the center of this little cat's eye section here I've got sections that are shaped much like this I wanted you to see it before I foiled it because we've already foiled the other three You can see it starts coming to a point here going with the round of the head getting a little bit fatter And then coming back to a point on the other side What that's going to do is as this hair falls once it's been lightened and then colored over It's going to allow no matter how her hair is styled or flows It's going to move with the shape of her head with just the natural flow of her hair It's cool because it's hitting from so many different points in the haircut The this block color is going to show through Many many different layers and where they fall on the head. So it's going to be really cool. You guys stay tuned We'll have more to show you All right guys, this is Matt Beck from free salon education comm and We're going to break down. This is the end result of what we're going to be working for towards Brian did a beautiful job on the color. You can see how vibrant that purple flows through So now we're going to break down how we did the haircut We started off sectioning from the parietal ridge back to low crown basically Complete even sectioning so almost like a horseshoe section with a little more of a point in the back Right at the the low crown Area so now we're going to work vertically and we're going to be creating concave layers and basically Concave layers are going to work on the interior of the hair and what we want to do is remove weight from the interior and allow the top to kind of Cascade over so you can see my elevation when you're cutting concave You want to make sure that your elbow is away from the head and the reason for this is Just basically so your elbow doesn't get in the way And we want to create a comfortable feel to our body position. So Still completely working vertically. Everything's coming straight back. So we're creating a square field to the haircut So just over directing it back using my first cut as my guide. So over directing to the previous And you can see that elevation I'm drawing a line To basically collapse the entire interior of the hair the thing I like about this is it allows me to create a softer Softer line around the the edge of the haircut. So it's not a lot of haircuts You can see have a very blunt line to it. This is a very very soft line. It also removes a lot of weight So just again over directing to the previous is a really simple technique But it's removing almost a maximum amount of weight from the interior because if you look at Just below the occipital bone that hair is being over directed almost 180 degrees straight up from the head and The rest of the hair around the crown area is being over directed slightly above 90 degrees So you're getting a lot of weight being removed from this. So it's gonna lay nice and sleek It is gonna have a really textured feel to the haircut. And then again, we're gonna let that top Cascade over that's why if you look at where we section it. It's it's really important when you're looking at the The two sections separated. So let's look at from the mid crown down as one One section and then you have the top part. So the top is the roof It's gonna fall over the the rest of the haircut So my goal here is to remove all this weight from the bottom But still allowing that top layer to fall over that's why I section below the crown Because if I went too high on that section, I wouldn't have any hair to fall over it So I just want to make sure any time I'm cutting the hair that I'm completely separating the top and the bottom So I'm keeping that in my mind. I want to work on both separately now You can see my body position did not change. I'm working on the opposite side of the head her right side Now the only difference is I'm pushing the hair towards the center So before I was pulling the hair towards the center working on her left side and now I'm pushing the hair We've talked about this in a lot of our other videos, but if you haven't seen the other videos That's really why you want to make sure you're consistent with your combing So if I'm combing towards the center on the left side I want to comb towards the center on the right side and that'll keep My lines even and the weight distribution even Same thing here. Some people like to really lift their elbow up You know, I think as long as you have your finger angle the right way and I'm using that guide I'm more comfortable not raising my elbow because sometimes that it once I raise that elbow up I want to drop it down anyways. So as long as I can keep my finger angle consistent I'm not, you know, too upset about that Still pushing the hair, you'll see me comb quite a few times And that the whole purpose behind that is to make sure you get all those little hairs Combed up and even in in each section that you take So now I'm going to take a piece from the back. We're still working square So everything that I worked on in the back came straight out from the head straight back And now on the side of the head everything's gonna come straight out From the section where it lives so traveling guide still because I want to keep a consistent square line in the back, but It's it is coming straight off the head So when you're cutting concave you're removing weight So it's okay to cut the bulk out to your line Normally when we're cutting hair we cut from a guideline To and then cut the bulk out that way when you're cutting concave You're actually removing the bulk and getting to your cutting line or to your guidelines. So You know concave is just a little bit different There's nothing, you know, a big deal about it and just make sure that you're cutting the the angle that you're looking for So the more elevation I put on this obviously the more weight I'm going to remove And I'm not looking to pull this straight up in the air to remove the maximum amount of weight Jensen has a Medium density of hair. So I don't need to remove every bit of it of the weight I just want to remove some of it. So I Think the key to this whole thing is just stay consistent Every comb that you make every time you take the hair up Just make sure that you're doing it exactly the same as you did it before and make sure you can see that guideline Don't rush through it. Don't grab too much hair at once and And you'll be good to go But again, everything's just coming straight out And that's what's going to create that squared edge to the base of the hair Now we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side What you'll notice is I'm now standing in front of her and pushing the hair away from myself Because before I was combing the hair towards the back of her head And I want to make sure that I'm cutting the weight out of the hair So I'm cutting from the interior to the to the line the baseline So I'm just pushing the hair away from me. I'm keeping my elbow away from her head. And so we're staying consistent We're cutting exactly the same on every side and every angle Staying nice and clean taking a little bit of the old hair For my guideline and then taking some of the new hair and make sure each parting is nice and clean and Working my way up Find that guide and then you can cut This part is pretty much our entire temple area It gets a little weaker right around the temple so you can take a little bit thicker section But you never want to take too thick of a section because then you start over directing And once you're over directing you're pushing weight into places that you don't want it to go So you just got to be careful with that Last section here You'll see I'm called sometimes I'll comb back and forth Both sides of the hair But that's really just to get those little hairs But you want to make sure that last comb that you take is pushing away from you at this point I'm working with my Mizutani DB 20 scissor That we have on the shop shop fse.com. I love this scissor. It's razor sharp So for instance instances like this Jensen has a really fine texture and a medium density So I don't need a super powerful scissor like the type Z2 that I use a lot as well This one I love because it's razor sharp and it's going to cut really nice lines into her hair So I don't need all that power from the from the other scissor The Z2 has more of a thick metal towards a tip which gives me a lot of power for coarser hair textures But sometimes I like a nice slim blade and a nice slim feel to the blade so When I'm working with Jensen's hair, I like to use the DB 20 All right, so we got that now we're gonna work on the fringe area You can see that I was showing you we're really working on the curve of her head because a lot of us will elevate hair From the head, but you don't follow the shape of the head So you really want to make sure that we're working with that curve Don't elevate too high because then you're layering the bangs and the bang area the fringe area And you don't want to do that. So just make sure that you're working at a nice elevation We're gonna do a slight Elevation right towards the back just just to give it it's gonna have a little bit of a graduation to it Towards the end but not much and you can see now I'm working my way around the curve towards the hairline so The key here is just to cut that and a rounded feel so that it doesn't fall heavy Now we're over directing Still working on the round of the head, but we're over directing the hair Towards myself so working through Working with that over direction, which is basically the more I over direct it the more weight I'm gonna push away from myself. So I Want to over direct towards me. We're creating a nice side-swap fringe But we're creating a soft side-swap fringe because of the the way that we're following the round of the head So same thing just changing my elevation as I work through the fringe. Don't do it at one elevation because The head is curved and because the head is curved if I cut it all at the same elevation That entire section it's gonna be completely different angles from where her hairline is and to where the high point of her head So I want to make sure that I follow that round and shift now We're gonna work on a diagonal back section And this is we're focused on her weak side So before I was elevating the hair in the air because I wanted to remove weight now what I'm gonna do Is go in and use a backhand technique So basically you take your thumb and put it in the opposite end of the scissor and that shifts your hand So now you can just do it a nice slide cut working with a lower elevation Because I want to keep the weight because this is her weaker side So I just flip the scissor over and have it facing down and I'm just still moving one blade half closing But working down the hair and creating that angle in there So this is something to take some practice But it's a really cool technique because you don't have to get into a weird position with your body to use it So just flip it over stick your finger in the opposite direction Everything stays the same except for your thumb So what you want to do is take your thumb out of the scissor place it in the opposite direction and flip the scissor down and It's a really easy technique once you get it, but sometimes it's a little weird at first So now I'm gonna work with the back half of her head and this is the part that hung over So we had the interior that we cut with the concave layering. So now I'm just gonna connect through it You can see there's the previously cut hair and Now I'm just gonna round Round it out. You could let's say that she had a really thick Density of hair and maybe she didn't want a lot of layers You could remove the interior and then cut the top a little bit longer than the rest of it so she didn't have a lot of short layers and her haircut but Jensen was really open for having a lot of layers and I think it's cool to have that movement and Also with Brian's color technique that he did it'll allow the the purple to peek through With the haircut so now We cut a square base. So the entire thing was brought directly out on both sides So we have a nice strong square base to it now with the top we're going in and we're cutting around top So we're working in pie shape sections around the crown of the head to allow a soft fall On the top. I don't always like to cut If I cut square on the bottom cut square on the top because sometimes that pushes a little too much weight I like to be able to have the strong square base and then just overlay it with a nice soft round Exterior or top on it So working both sides working on top of my fingers You'll see my body position is different from when I was cutting concave because now I'm cutting short to long Before I was removing weight now. I'm still removing weight, but I'm cutting from a guideline And creating more of that shape in there Just connecting it But you'll see I cut a little bit and then I elevate more and then I cut more. I don't just cut a line And call the day and that's a lot of us will pick up hair and we'll just start cutting it and It is what it is and that angle and then you got to realize that the head is curving away from you So you have to shift otherwise you end up with weight that you didn't want You can see I'm pushing away from my body at that point because I'm still working towards my guide And I never want to pull my guide towards my body Now I'm working on the right side of her head So now I'm pulling the new hair towards the guide And the guides in front of me at this point I don't see the guide. So take a little bit more hair That's a definite thing that you need to make sure you're always Looking for the guide if you don't see it keep combing and and keep checking And I see that guide I keep shifting with the round of the head creating a nice soft layered feel This is really create what creates seamless layering The reason we end up with a little stacked layer in a haircut is because we we don't elevate Enough we don't follow the round of the head. So we end up with a graduation at the very end of our layers So we're layering layering and then we didn't elevate enough so we get a ledge of graduation So just make sure you follow that head if you're not looking for that weight to be there And you want seamless layers just keep following the round and elevating last couple sections here Still working vertically You can see with my scissor. I'm only moving that one blade That's what's going to give you those consistent lines using the scissor Mechanically the way that it's developed to work Just have that steady blade Following and then have your other blade closed down and just cut your lines in there Keeps everything nice and steady. I see people chomping through In classes that we teach and it's really you just want to make sure that that's pushing weight where you don't want it to go So use the tools the way that they're meant And if you've been doing hair for a long time and you've never understood it just sit there in practice and make sure that We have other videos that talk about how to just move one blade But it's really important to make sure that you're using the tools the correct way The great thing about taking your time when you're doing a haircut and not rushing through it just The fact that when I get done with this and I blow it out There's not much I need to do because I've already cut The angles the shape everything perfectly the way that I want it to be and all I have to do is make minor adjustments Later on with the haircut and then sometimes you don't even have to it just depending on as long as you're doing everything on purpose The reason we have to always fix things and adjust things when it's dry is because we rush through the wet cut and then we end up Blow drying it really quick and then dry cutting it So now I'm going to go through smooth it out Using a leafing technique. This is our vest brush that we have on the shop And I like it because it has a lot of tension to it And what you'll see me doing is just pulling with tension with the brush working on the mid-shaft of the hair And then the ends I'm not really worried about the ends because we'll just soften those with an iron But I'd really want to work on the base get all the calyx out of her hair work it back and forth The blow dryer is staying in one position. So it's passing the air over the cuticle laying the cuticle down and creating shine and Really polishing that hair off Using a leafing technique. It'll give me a little bit of volume at the base I'm not looking for a lot And and that's it and we polish it out. You can see the color looks awesome Brian did a great job. It just really brings everything together But hope you guys like this video Make sure you subscribe to us on youtube and you can check out the rest of our videos that we're doing We're posting a lot of videos every week Just for you guys. So hope you enjoy it and we will see you on the next video. Thanks