 CHAPTER VII Wednesday, July 24. At last the marvel has come to pass—land, land—and after we had almost given up our belief in it. After nearly two years we again see something rising above that never-ending white line on the horizon yonder—a white line which for millennium after millennium has stretched over this sea, and which for millenniums to come shall stretch in the same way. We are leaving it and leaving no trace behind us, for the track of our little caravan across the endless plains has long ago disappeared. A new life is beginning for us, for the ice it is ever the same. It has long haunted our dreams this land, and now it comes like a vision, like fairyland. Drift white did arches above the horizon like distant clouds, which one is afraid will disappear every minute. The most wonderful thing is that we have seen this land all the time without knowing it. I examined it several times with the telescope from Longing Camp in the belief that it might be snowfields, but always came to the conclusion that it was only clouds as I could never discover any dark point. Then too it seemed to change form which I suppose must be attributed to the mist which always lay over it, but it always came back again at the same place with its remarkable regular curves. I now remember that dark crag we saw east of us at the camp and which I took to be an iceberg. It must certainly have been a little islet of some kind. The ice was worse and more broken than ever yesterday. It was indeed a labour to force one's way over pressure ridges like veritable mountains with valleys and clefts in between, but on we went in good spirits and made some progress. At Lane's where a crossing was difficult to find we did not hesitate to launch kayaks and sledges and were soon over in this manner. Sometimes after a very bad bit we would come across some flat ice for a short distance and over this we would go like wildfires splashing through ponds and puddles. While I was on ahead at one time yesterday morning Johansson went up onto a hammock to look at the ice and remarked a curious black stripe over the horizon, but he supposed it to be only a cloud he said and I thought no more about the matter. When some while later I also ascended a hammock to look at the ice I became aware of the same black stripe. It ran obliquely from the horizon up into what I supposed to be a white bank of clouds. The longer I looked at this bank and stripe the more unusual I thought them until I was constrained to fetch the glass. No sooner had I fixed it on the black part than it struck me at once that this must be land and that not far off. There was a large snow field out of which black rocks projected. It was not long before Johansson had the glass to his eye and convinced himself that we really had land before us. We both of us naturally became in the highest spirits. I then saw a similar white arching outline a little farther east, but it was for the most part covered with white mist from which it could hardly be distinguished and moreover was continually changing form. It soon, however, came out entirely and was considerably larger and higher than the former but there was not a black speck to be seen on it. So this was what land looked like now that we had come to it. I had imagined it in many forms with high peaks and glittering glaciers but never like this. There was nothing kindly about this but it was indeed no less welcome and on the whole we could not expect it to be otherwise than snow covered with all the snow which falls here. So then we pitched the tent and had a feast suited to the occasion. Lob-scow made of potatoes for the last time but one we had saved them long for this occasion. Pemmican dried bears and seals flesh and bear tongues chopped up together. After this was a second course consisting of breadcrumbs fried in bears' grease, also real food and butter, and a piece of chocolate to wind up. We thought this land so near that it could not possibly take long to reach it, certainly not longer than till next evening. Johansson was even certain that we should do it the same day but nevertheless thirteen days were to elapse, occupied in the same monotonous drudgery over the drift-ice. On July twenty-fifth I write, when we stopped in the fog yesterday evening we had a feeling that we must have come well under land. This morning when we turned out the first thing Johansson did when he went to fetch some water for me to cook with was, of course, to climb upon the nearest hummock and look at the land. There it lay considerably nearer than before and he is quite certain that we shall reach it before night. I also discovered a new land to our west, south sixty degrees west magnetic that day, a regular shield-like arched outline similar to the other land, and it was low above the horizon and appeared to be a long way off. We went on our way as fast as we could across lanes and rough ice, but did not get far in the day and the land did not seem to be much nearer. In reality there was no difference to be seen, although we tried to imagine that it was steadily growing higher. On Saturday July twenty-seventh I seemed to have a suspicion that in point of fact we were drifting away from land, I write. The wind began to blow from the south-southwest magnetic just as we were getting off yesterday and increased as the day went on. It was easy to perceive by the atmosphere that the wind was driving the ice off the land and land lanes formed particularly on the east side of it. When I was up on a hummock yesterday evening I observed a black stripe on the horizon under land. I examined it with a glass and as I had surmised there was an ice-edge or glacier stretching far in a westerly direction and there was plainly a broad lane in front of it to judge by the dark bank of mist which lay there. It seems to me that land cannot be far off and if the ice is tolerably passable we may reach it to-day. The wind continued last night but it has quieted down now and there is sunshine outside. We tried by every means in our power to get a comfortable night's rest in our new bag of blankets. We have tried lying on the bear ice on the ski and tonight on the bear ice again, but it must be confessed that it is hard and never will be very comfortable, a little chilly too when one is wet, but we shall appreciate a good warm bed all the more when we get it. Tuesday, July 30th. We make incredibly slow progress but we are pushing our way nearer land all the same. Every kind of hindrance seems to be set us. Now I am suffering so much from my back, lumbago, that yesterday it was only by exerting all my strength of will that I could drag myself along. In difficult places Johansson had to help me with my sledge. It began yesterday and at the end of our march he had to go first and find the way. Yesterday I was much worse and how I am today I do not know before I begin to walk, but I ought to be thankful that I can drag myself along at all though it is with endless pain. We had to halt and camp on account of rain yesterday morning at three after only having gone nine hours. The rain succeeded in making us wet before we had found a suitable place for the tent. Here we have been a whole day while it has been pouring down and we have hardly become drier. There are puddles under us and the bag is soaked on the underside. The wind has gone round to the west just now and it has stopped raining so we made some porridge for breakfast and think of going on again, but if it should begin to rain again we must stop as it will not do to get wet through when we have no change of clothes. It is anything but pleasant as it is to lie with wet legs and feet that are like icicles and not have a dry thread to put on. Full grown rosses gulls were seen singly four times today and when Johansson was out to fetch water this morning he saw two. Wednesday July 31st. The ice is as disintegrated and impracticable as can well be conceived. The continual friction and packing of the flows against each other grind up the ice so that the water is full of brush and small pieces. To ferry over this in the kayaks is impossible and the search is long before we eventually find a hazardous crossing. Sometimes we have to form one by pushing small flows together or must ferry the sledges over on a little flow. We spend much time and labor on each single lane and progress becomes slow in this way. My back still painful Johansson had to go ahead yesterday also and evening and morning he is obliged to take off my boots and socks for I am unable to do it myself. He is touchingly unselfish and takes care of me as if I were a child. Everything he thinks can ease me he does quietly without my knowing it. Poor fellow he has to work doubly hard now and does not know how this will end. I feel very much better today however and it is to be hoped shall soon be all right. Thursday August 1st. Ice with more obstacles than here is it to be found I wonder but we are working slowly on and that being the case we ought perhaps to be satisfied. We have also had a change a brilliantly fine day but it seems to me the south wind we have had which opened the lanes has put us a good way farther off land again. We have also drifted a long distance to the east and no longer see the most westerly land with the black rocks which we remarked at first. It would seem as if the rosses gulls keep to land here we see them daily. One thing however I am rejoicing over my back is almost well so that I shall not delay our progress any more. I have some idea now what it would be like if one of us became seriously ill. Our fate would then be sealed I think. Friday August 2nd. It seems as if everything conspired to delay us and that we shall never get away from this drift ice. My back is well again now the ice was more passable yesterday than before so that we nearly made a good day's march but in return wind and current set us from shore and we are farther away again. Against these two enemies all fighting is in vain I am afraid. We have drifted far off to the southeast have got to the north point of the land about due west of us and we are now in about 81 degrees 36 minutes north. My only hope now is that this drift eastward away from land may stop or alter its course and thus bring us nearer land. It is unfortunate that the lanes are covered with young ice which it would be disastrous to put the kayaks through. If this gets worse things will look very bad. Meanwhile we have nothing to do but go on as fast as we can. If we are going to drift back into the ice again then then Saturday August 3rd. Inconceivable toil! We could never go on with it were it not for the fact that we must. We have made wretchedly little progress even if we have made any at all. We have had no food for the dogs the last few days except the ivory gulls and fulmers we have been able to shoot and that has been a couple a day. Yesterday the dogs only had a little bit of blubber each. Monday August 4th these lanes are desperate work and tax one's strength. We often have to go several hundred yards on mere brash or from block to block dragging the sledges after us and in constant fear of their capsizing into the water. Johansson was very nearly in yesterday but as always hitherto he managed to save himself. The dogs fall in and get a bath continually. Saturday August 5th we have never had worse ice than yesterday but we managed to force our way on a little nevertheless and two happy incidents marked the day. The first was that Johansson was not eaten up by a bear and the second that we saw open water under the glacier edge ashore. We set off about seven o'clock yesterday morning and got onto ice as bad as it could be. It was as if some giant had hurled down enormous blocks pale mail and had strewn wet snow in between them with water underneath and into this we sank above our knees. There were also numbers of deep pools in between the blocks. It was like toiling over hill and dale up and down over block after block and ridge after ridge with deep clefts in between, not a clear space big enough to pitch a tent on even and thus it went on the whole time. To put a coping stone to our misery there was such a mist that we could not see a hundred yards in front of us. After an exhausting march we had last reached a lane where we had to ferry over in the kayaks. After having cleared the side of the lane from young ice and brash I drew my sledge to the end of the ice and was holding it to prevent it slipping in when I heard a scuffle behind me and Johansson, who had just turned round to pull his sledge flush with mine, cried, Take the gun! I turned round and saw an enormous bear throwing itself on him and Johansson on his back. I tried to seize my gun, which was in its case on the foredeck, but at the same moment the kayak slipped into the water. My first thought was to throw myself into the water over the kayak and fire from there, but I recognized how risky it would be. I began to pull the kayak with its heavy cargo onto the high edge of the ice again as quickly as I could and was on my knees pulling and tugging to get at my gun. I had no time to look round and see what was going on behind me when I heard Johansson quietly say, You must look sharp if you want to be in time. Look sharp? I should think so. At last I got hold of the butt end, dragged the gun out, turned round in a sitting posture and cocked the shot barrel. The bear was standing not two yards off, ready to make an end to my dog Kyphus. There was no time to lose in cocking the other barrel, so I gave it a charge of shot behind the ear and it fell down dead between us. The bear must have followed our track like a cat and covered by the ice blocks have slunk up while we were clearing the ice from the lane and had our backs to him. We could see by the trail how it had crept over a small ridge just behind us under cover of a mound by Johansson's kayak. While the ladder, without suspecting anything or looking round, went back and stooped down to pick up the hauling-rope, he suddenly caught sight of an animal crouched up at the end of the kayak but thought it was Suggon and before he had time to realize that it was so big he received a cuff on the ear which made him see fireworks and then, as I mentioned before, over he went on his back. He tried to defend himself as best he could with his fists. With one hand he seized the throat of the animal and held fast, clinching it with all his might. It was just as the bear was about to bite Johansson in the head that he uttered their memorable words, Look Sharp. The bear kept glancing at me continually, speculating no doubt as to what I was going to do, but then caught sight of the dog and turned towards it. Johansson let go as quick as thought and wriggled himself away while the bear gave Suggon a cuff which made him howl lustily just as he does when we thrash him. Then Kyphus got a slap on the nose. Meanwhile Johansson had struggled to his legs and when I fired had got his gun which was sticking out of the kayak-hole. The only harm done was that the bear had scraped some grime off Johansson's right cheek so that he has a white stripe on it and had given him a slight wound in one hand. Kyphus had also got a scratch on his nose. Hardly had the bear fallen before we saw two more peeping over a hammock a little way off, cubs who naturally wanted to see the result of the maternal chase. They were two large cubs. I thought it was not worthwhile to sacrifice a cartridge on them, but Johansson expressed his opinion that Young Bear's flesh was much more delicate in flavor than old. He would only shoot one, he said, and start it off. However, the cubs took to their heels, although they came back a little while later, and we could hear them at a long distance growling after their mother. Johansson sent one of them a ball, but the range was too long and he only wounded it. With some terrific growls it started off again and Johansson after it, but he gave up the chase soon as he saw it promised to be a long one. While we were cutting up the she-bear the cubs came back on the other side of the lane, and the whole time we were there we had them walking round us. When we had fed the dogs well and had eaten some of the raw meat to ourselves, and had further more stowed away in the kayaks the meat we had cut off the legs, we had last ferried over the lane and went on our way. The ice was not good, and to make bad worse we immediately came on some terrible lanes full of nothing but tightly packed lumps of ice. In some places there were whole seas of it, and it was enough to make one despair. Among all this loose ice we came on an unusually thick old flow with high mounds on it and pools in between. It was from one of those mounds that I observed through the glass the open water at the foot of the glacier, and now we cannot have far to go, but the ice looks very bad on ahead, and each piece when it is like this may take a long time to travel over. As we went along we heard the wounded bear, lowing ceaselessly behind us, it filled the hole of this silent world of ice with its bitter paint over the cruelty of man. It was miserable to hear it, and if we had had time we should undoubtedly have gone back and sacrificed a cartridge on it. We saw the cubs go off to the place where the mother was lying and thought to ourselves that we had got rid of them but heard them soon afterwards, and even when we had camped they were not far off. Wednesday August 7th at last we are under land, at last the drift ice lies behind us, and before us is open water, open it is to be hoped to the end. Yesterday was the day. When we came out of the tent the evening of the day before yesterday, we both thought we must be nearer the edge of the glacier than ever, and with fresh courage and in the faint hope of reaching land that day we started on our journey. Yet we dared not think our life on the drift ice was so nearly at an end, after wandering about on it for five months and suffering so many disappointments we were only too well prepared for a new defeat. We thought, however, that the ice looked more promising farther on, though before we had gone far we came to broad lanes full of slush and foul uneven ice with hills and dales and deep snow and water into which we sank up to our thighs. After a couple of lanes of this kind matters improved a little and we got on to some flat ice. After having gone over this for a while it became apparent how much nearer we were to the edge of the glacier. It could not possibly be far off now. We eagerly harnessed ourselves to the sledges again, put on a spurt, and away we went through snow and water over mounds and ridges. We went as hard as we could and what did we care if we sank into water till far above our fur leggings so that both they and our comogger failed and gurgled like a pump. What did it matter to us now so long as we got on? We soon reached plains and over them we went quicker and quicker. We waded through ponds where the spray flew up on all sides. Nearer and nearer we came and by the dark water sky before us, which continually rose higher, we could see how we were drawing near to open water. We did not even notice bears now. There seemed to be plenty about, tracks both old and new, crossing and recrossing. One had even inspected the tent while we were asleep, and by the fresh trail we could see how it had come downwind in lee of us. We had no use for a bear now, we had food enough. We were soon able to see the open water under the wall of the glacier and our steps lengthened even more. As I was starting along I thought of the march of the Ten Thousand through Asia when Xenophon soldiers, after a year's war against superior forces, at last saw the sea from a mountain and cried, Thalata, Thalata! Maybe this sea was just as welcome to us after our months in the endless white drift ice. At last, at last, I stood by the edge of the ice. Before me lay the dark surface of the sea with floating white flows, far away the glacier wall rose abruptly from the water. Over the hole lay a somber, foggy light. Joy welled up in our hearts at this sight and we could not give it expression in words. Behind us lay all our troubles, before us the waterway home. I waved my hat to Johansson, who was a little way behind, and he waved his in answer and shouted, Hurrah! Such an event had to be celebrated in some way, and we did it by having a piece of chocolate each. While we were standing there looking at the water, the large head of a seal came up and then disappeared silently, but soon more appeared. It is very reassuring to know that we can procure food at any minute we like. Now came the rigging of the kayaks for the voyage. Of course the better way would have been to paddle singly, but with the long big sledges on the deck this was not easy, and leave them behind I dared not. We might have good use for them yet. For the time being, therefore, there was nothing else to be done but to lash the two kayaks together side by side in our usual manner, stiffen them out with the snowshoes under the straps, and place the sledges a-thwart them, one before and one behind. It was sad to think we could not take our two last dogs with us, but we should probably have no further use for them, and it would not have done to take them with us on the decks of our kayaks. We were sorry to part with them. We had become very fond of these two survivors. Faithful and enduring they had followed us the whole journey through, and now that better times had come they must say farewell to life. Destroy them in the same way as the others we could not. We sacrificed a cartridge on each of them. I shot Johansson's, and he shot mine. So then we were ready to set off. It was a real pleasure to let the kayaks dance over the water and hear the little waves plashing against the sides. For two years we had not seen such a surface of water before us. We had not gone far before we found that the wind was so good that we ought to make use of it, and so we rigged up a sail on our fleet. We glided easily before the wind in towards the land we had so longed for all these many months. What a change after having forced one's way inch by inch and foot by foot on ice. The mist had hidden the land from us for a while, but now it parted, and we saw the glacier rising straight in front of us. At the same moment the sun burst forth, and a more beautiful morning I can hardly remember. We were soon underneath the glacier and had to lower our sail and paddle westward along the wall of ice, which was from fifty to sixty feet in height and on which a landing was impossible. It seemed as if there must be a little movement in this glacier, the water had eaten its way deep underneath it at the foot and there was no noise of falling fragments or the cracking of crevasses to be heard as there generally is with large glaciers. It was also quite even on the top and no crevasses were to be seen. Up the entire height of the wall there was stratification which was unusually marked. We soon discovered that a tidal current was running westward along the wall of the glacier with great rapidity and took advantage of it to make good progress. To find a camping ground, however, was not easy, and at last we were reduced to taking up our abode on a drifting flow. It was glorious, though, to go to rest in the certainty that we should not wake to drudgery in the drift ice. When we turned out today we found that the ice had packed around us and I do not know yet how we shall get out of it, though there is open water not far off to our west. Thursday, August 8th, after hauling our impedimenta over some flows we got into open water yesterday without much difficulty. When we had reached the edge of the water we made a paddle each from our snowshoe staffs to which we bound blades made of broken off snowshoes. They were a great improvement on the somewhat clumsy paddles with canvas blades lashed to bamboo sticks. I was very much inclined to chop off our sludges so that they would only be half as long as before. By doing so we could carry them on the after-deck of the kayaks and could thus each paddle alone and our advance would be much quicker than by paddling the twin kayaks. However, I thought perhaps it was unadvisable. The water looked promising enough on ahead but there was mist and we could not see far. We knew nothing of the country or the coast we had come to and might yet have good use for the sludges. We therefore set off in our double kayak as before with the sludges a thwart the deck for and aft. The mist soon rose a little. It was then a dead calm. The surface of the water lay like a great mirror before us with bits of ice and an occasional flow drifting on it. It was a marvelously beautiful sight and it was indeed glorious to sit there in our light-vessels and glide over the surface without any exertion. Suddenly a seal rose in front of us and over us flew continually ivory gulls and fulmers and kitty-wakes, little ox we also saw and some rosses gulls and a couple of terns. There was no want of animal life here nor of food when we should require it. We found open water broader and broader as we paddled on our way beside the wall of ice, but it would not clear so that we could see something of our surroundings. The mist still hung obstinately over it. Our course at first laid west to north magnetic, but the land always trended more and more to the west and southwest. The expanse of water grew greater and soon it widened out to a large sea stretching in a southwesternly direction. A breeze sprang up from the north-northeast and there was considerable motion, which was not pleasant, as in our double craft the seas continually washed up between the two and wedded us. We put in towards evening and pitched the tent on the shore ice, and just as we did so it began to rain so that it was high time to be under a roof. Friday August 9th Yesterday morning we had again to drag the sledges with the kayaks over some ice which had drifted in front of our camping-ground, and during this operation I managed to fall into the water and get wet. It was with difficulty we finally got through and out into open water. After a while we again found our way closed and were obliged to take to hauling over some flows, but after this we had good open water the whole day. It was a northeasterly wind which had set the ice towards the land, and it was lucky we had got so far, as behind us to judge by the atmosphere the sea was much blocked. The mist hung over the land so that we saw little of it. According as we advanced we were able to hold more southerly course, and the wind being nearly on the quarter we set sail about one o'clock and continued sailing all day till we stopped yesterday evening. Our sail however was interrupted once when it was necessary to paddle round an ice-point north of where we are now. The contrary current was so strong that it was as much as we could do to make way against it, and it was only after considerable exertion that we succeeded in doubling the point. We have seen little of the land we are skirting up to this on account of the mist, but as far as I can make out it consists of islands. First there was a large island covered with an ice sheet, then west of it a smaller one, on which are the two crags of rock which first made us aware of the vicinity of land. Next came along fjord or sound, with massive shore-ice in it, and then a small low headland or rather an island south of which we are now encamped. The shore-ice lying along the land is very remarkable. It is unusually massive and uneven. It seems to be composed of huge blocks welded together which in a great measure at any rate must proceed from the ice sheet. There has also perhaps been violent pressure against the land which has heaved the sea-ice up together with pieces of ice from the calving of the glacier, and the hole has frozen together into a conglomerate mass. A medium-sized iceberg lay off the headland north of us where the current was so strong. Where we are now lying, however, there is flat fjord-ice between the low island here and a larger one farther south. This land grows more of a problem, and I am more than ever at a loss to know where we are. It is very remarkable to me that the coast continually trends to the south instead of to the west. I could explain it all best by supposing ourselves to be on the west coast of the archipelago of Franz Josefland, were it not that the variation, I think, is too great, and also for the number of rossus gulls there still are. That one has with certainty been seen in Spitzbergen, and if my supposition is right this should not be far off. Yesterday we saw a number of them again. They are quite as common here as the other species of gull. Saturday August 10th. We went up on to the little islet we had camped by. It was covered by a glacier which curved over it in the shape of a shield. There were slopes to all sides, but so slight was the gradient that our snowshoes would not even run of themselves on the crust of snow. From the ridge we had a fair view, and as the mist lifted just then we saw the land about us tolerably well. We now perceived plainly that what we had been skirting along was only islands. The first one was the biggest. The other land, with the two rocky crags, had, as we could see, a strip of bare land along the shore on the northwest side. Was it there perhaps the rosses gulls congregated and had their breeding grounds? The island to our south also looked large. It appeared to be entirely covered by a glacier. Between the islands and as far as we could perceive southeast and east the sea was covered by perfectly flat fjord ice, but no land was to be discerned in that direction. There were no icebergs here, though we saw some later in the day on the south side of the island lying to the south of us. The glacier covering the little island on which we stood joined the fjord ice almost imperceptibly. Only a few small fissures along the shore indicated where it probably began. There could not be any great rise and fall in the ice here, consequent on the tide, as the fissures would then, as a matter of course, have been considerably larger. This seemed remarkable, as the tidal current ran swift as a river here. On the west side of the island there lay in front of the glacier a rampart of ice and snow which was probably formed of pieces of glacier ice and sea ice welded together. It had the same character as the massive shore ice which we had seen previously running along the land. This rampart went over imperceptibly, with an even slope into the glacier within it. About three in the afternoon we finally set off in open water and sailed till eight or so in the evening. The water was then closed and we were compelled to haul the fleet over flat ice to open water on the other side. But here too our progress seemed blocked and as the current was against us we pitched the tent. On August 10th we were compelled partly to haul our sledges over the ice, partly to row in open water in a southwesternly direction. When we reached navigable waters again we passed a flock of walruses lying on a flow. It was a pleasure to see so much food collected at one spot but we did not take any notice of them as for the time being we have meat and blubber enough. After dinner we managed in the mist to wander down a long bay into the shore ice where there was no outlet. We had to turn back and this delayed us considerably. We now kept a more westerly course following the often massive and uneven edge of the ice. But the current was dead against us and in addition young ice had been forming all day as we rode along. The weather had been cold and still with falling snow and this began to be so thick that we could not make way against it any longer. We therefore went to shore on the ice and hauled until ten in the evening. Bear tracks old and new in all directions, both the single ones of old bachelors and those of she bears with cubs. It looks as if they had had a general rendezvous or as if a flock of them had roamed backward and forward. I have never seen so many bear tracks in one place in my life. We have certainly done fourteen or twenty-five miles today but still I think our progress is too slow if we are to reach Spitzberg in this year and I am always wondering if we ought not to cut the ends off our sledges so that each can paddle his own kayak. This young ice, however, which grows steadily worse, and the eleven degrees below freezing we now have, make me hold my hand. Perhaps winter is upon us and then the sledges may be very necessary. It is a curious sensation to paddle in the mist as we are doing without being able to see a mile in front of us. The land we found we have left behind us. We are always in hopes of clear weather in order to see where the land lies in front of us, for land there must be. This flat, unbroken ice must be attached to land of some kind, but clear weather we are not to have, it appears. Mist without ceasing we must push on as it is. After having hauled some distance farther over the ice we came to open water again the following day, August 11th, and paddled for four or five hours. While I was on a hammock inspecting the waters ahead a huge monster of a walrus came up quite near us. It lay puffing and glaring at us on the surface of the water, but we took no notice of it, got into our kayaks, and went on. Suddenly it came up again by the side of us, raised itself high out of the water, snorted so that the air shook and threatened to thrust its tusks into our frail craft. We seized our guns, but at the same moment it disappeared and came up immediately afterwards on the other side by Johansson's kayak where it repeated the same maneuver. I said to him that if the animals showed signs of attacking us we must spend a cartridge on it. It came up several times and disappeared again. We could see it down in the water passing rapidly on its side under our vessels, and afraid lest it should make a hole in the bottom with its tusks, we thrust our paddles down into the water and frightened it away, but suddenly it came up again right by Johansson's kayak and more savage than ever. He sent it at charge straight in the eyes. It uttered a terrific bellow, rolled over and disappeared, leaving a trail of blood on the water behind it. We paddled on as hard as we could, knowing that the shot might have dangerous consequences, but we were relieved when we heard the walrus come up far behind us at the place where it had disappeared. We had paddled quietly on and had long forgotten all about the walrus when I suddenly saw Johansson jump into the air and felt his kayak receive a violent shock. I had no idea what it was and looked round to see if some block of floating ice had capsized and struck the bottom of his kayak, but suddenly I saw another walrus rise up in the water beside us. I seized my gun and as the animal would not turn its head so that I could aim at a spot behind the ear where it is more easily wounded, I was constrained to put a ball in the middle of its forehead. There was no time to be lost. Happily this was enough and it lay there dead and floating on the water. With great difficulty we managed to make a hole in the thick skin and after cutting ourselves some strips of blubber and meat from the back we went on our way again. At seven in the evening the tidal current turned and the channel closed. There was no more water to be found. Instead of taking to hauling over the ice we determined to wait for the opening of the channel when the tide should turn next day and meanwhile to cut off the ends of our sledges as I had so long been thinking of doing and make ourselves some good double paddles so that we could put on greater pace and in our single kayaks make the most of the channel during the time it was open. While we were occupied in doing this the mist cleared off at last and there lay land stretched out in front of us extending a long way south and west from southeast right up to north-northwest. It appeared to be a chain of islands with sounds between them. They were chiefly covered with glaciers only here and there were perpendicular black mountain walls to be seen. It was a sight to make one rejoice to see so much land at one time. But where were we? This seemed a more difficult question to answer than ever. Could we, after all, have arrived at the east side of Franz Josefland? It seemed very reasonable to suppose this to be the case, but then we must be very far east and must expect a long voyage before we could reach Cape Fligoli on Crown Prince Rudolph land. Meanwhile we worked hard to get the sledges ready, but as the mist gradually lifted and it became clearer and clearer we could not help continually leaving them to climb up onto the hammock beside us to look at the country and speculate on this insoluble problem. We did not get to bed till seven in the morning of August 12th. After having slept a few hours we turned out of the bag again for the current had turned and there was a wide channel. In our single kayaks we made good headway, but after going about five miles the channel closed and we had to clamour onto the ice. We thought it advisable to wait until the tidal current turned and see if there were not a channel running farther. If not we must lash proper grips of wood to our curtailed sledges and commence hauling towards a sound running through the land which I see about west-northwest true and which according to Peir's chart I take to be Rawlinson sound. But the crack did not open and when it came to the point we had to continue on our way hauling. Wednesday August 14th we dragged our sledges and loads over a number of flows and ferried across lanes arriving finally at a lane which ran westward in which we could paddle but it soon packed together again and we were stopped. The ivory gulls are very bold and last night stole a piece of blubber lying close by the tent wall. The following day we had to make our way as well as we could by paddling short distances in the lanes or hauling our loads over flows smaller or larger as the case might be. The current which was running like a mill-race ground them together in its career. Our progress with our short stumpy sledges was nothing very great and of water suitable for paddling in we found less and less. We stopped several times and waited for the ice to open at the turn of the tide but it did not do so and on the morning of August 15th we gave it up turned inward and took to the shore ice for good. We set our course westward towards the sound we had seen for several days now and had struggled so to reach. The surface of the ice was tolerably even and we got over the ground well. On the way we passed a frozen in iceberg which was the highest we saw in these parts some fifty to sixty feet I should say. I wished to go up it to get a better view of our environment but it was too steep and we did not get higher than a third part up the side. In the evening we had last reached the islands we had been steering for for the last few days and for the first time in two years had bare land underfoot. The delight of the feeling of being able to jump from block to block of granite is indescribable and the delight was not lessened when in a little sheltered corner among the stones we found moss and flowers. Little poppies, popavar nutacale, saxofraga nevalis and estaleria. It goes without saying that the Norwegian flag had to wave over this hour first bare land and a banquet was prepared. Our petroleum meanwhile had given out several days previously and we had to contrive another lamp in which train oil could be used. The smoking hot lobskow made of temmocon and the last of our potatoes was delicious and we sat inside the tent and kicked the bare grit under us to our heart's content. Where we are is becoming more and more incomprehensible. There appears to be a broad sound west of us but what is it? The island we are now on and where we have slept splendidly, this is written on the morning of August 16th on dry land, with no melting of the ice in puddles underneath us, is a long, moreen-like ridge running about north and south magnetic and consists almost exclusively of small and large, generally very large, blocks of stone with, I should say, occasional stationary crags. The blocks are in a measure rounded off but I have found no striation on them. The whole island barely rises above the snow field in which it lies and which slopes in a gradual decline down to the surrounding ice. On our west there is a bare island, somewhat higher, which we have seen for several days. Along the shore there is a decided strand-blind terrace. North of us are two small islets and a small rock or scary. As I mentioned before, August 13th, I had at first supposed the sound on our west to be Rallinson's sound but this now appeared impossible as there was nothing to be seen of dove glacier by which it is bounded on one side. If this was now our position we must have traversed the glacier and Vilcek land without noticing any trace of either, for we had traveled westward a good half-degree south of Cape Budapest. The possibility that we could be in this region we consequently now held to be finally excluded. We must have come to a new land in the western part of France-Joseph land or archipelago and so far west that we had seen nothing of the countries discovered by payer, but so far west that we had not even seen anything of Oscars' land which ought to be situated in 82 degrees north and 52 degrees east. This was indeed incomprehensible but was there any other explanation. Saturday August 17th, yesterday was a good day. We are in open water on the west coast of France-Joseph land as far as I can make out and may again hope to get home this year. About noon yesterday we walked across the ice from our moraine islet to the higher island west of us. As I was ready before Johansson I went on first to examine the island a little. As he was following me he caught sight of a bear on the level ice to Leeward. It came jogging up against the wind straight towards him. He had his gun ready, but when a little nearer the bear stopped reconsidered the situation suddenly turned tail and was soon out of sight. This island we came to seemed to me to be one of the most lovely spots on the face of the earth. A beautiful flat beach, an old strand lined with shells turned about, a narrow belt of clear water along the shore where snails and sea urchins, achinas, were visible at the bottom and amphipoda were swimming about. In the cliffs overhead were hundreds of screaming little ox and beside us the snow buntings fluttered from stone to stone with their cheerful twitter. Suddenly the sun burst forth through the light fleecy clouds and the day seemed to be all sunshine. Here were life and bare land we were no longer on the eternal drift ice. At the bottom of the sea just beyond the beach I could see whole forests of seaweed, luminaria, and focus. Under the cliffs here and there were drifts of beautiful rose-colored snow. On the north side of the island we found the breeding place of numbers of black-backed gulls. They were sitting with their young in ledges of the cliffs. Of course we had to climb up and secure a photograph of this unusual scene of family life and as we stood there high up on the cliff side we could see the drift ice once we had come. It lay beneath us like a white plain and disappeared far away on the horizon. Beyond this it was we had journeyed, and farther away still the from and our comrades were drifting yet. I had thought of going to the top of this island to get a better view and perhaps come nearer solving the problem of our whereabouts, but when we were on the west side of it the mist came back and settled on the top. We had to content ourselves with only going a little way up the slope to look at our future course westward. Some way out we saw open water. It looked like the sea itself, but before one could get to it there was a good deal of ice. We came down again and started off. Along the land there was a channel running some distance farther and we tried it, but it was covered everywhere with a thin layer of new ice which we did not dare to break through in our kayaks and risk cutting a hole in them. So finally a little way farther south we put in to drag up the kayaks and take to the ice again. While we were doing this one huge bearded seal after another stuck its head up by the side of the ice and gazed wanderingly at us with its great eyes. Then with a violent header and splashing the water in all directions it would disappear to come up again soon afterwards on the other side. They kept playing around us, blowing, diving, reappearing and throwing themselves over so that the water foamed round them. It would have been easy enough to capture one had we required it. At last after a good deal of exertion we stood at the margin of the ice. The blue expanse of water lay before us as far as the eye could reach and we thought that for the future we had to do with it alone. To the north there was land, the steep black basalt cliffs of which fell perpendicularly into the sea. We saw headland after headland standing out northward and farthest off of all we could describe a bluish glacier. The interior was everywhere covered with an ice sheet. Below the clouds and over the land was a strip of ruddy night sky which was reflected in the melancholy rocking sea. So we paddled on along the side of the glacier which covered the whole country south of us. We became more and more excited as we approached the headland to the west. Would the coast trend south here and was there no more land westward? It was this we expected to decide our fate, decide whether we should reach home that year or be compelled to winter somewhere on land. Nearer and nearer we came to it along the edge of the perpendicular wall of ice. At last we reached the headland and our hearts bounded with joy to see so much water, only water westward and the coast trending south west. We also saw a bare mountain projecting from the ice sheet a little way farther on. It was a curious high ridge as sharp as a knife blade. It was as steep and sharp as anything I have seen. It was all of dark columnar basalt and so jagged and peaked that it looked like a comb. In the middle of the mountain there was a gap or cool war and there we crept up to inspect the seaway southward. The wall of rock was anything but broad there and fell away on the south side in a perpendicular drop of several hundred feet. A cutting wind was blowing in the cool war. While we were lying there I suddenly heard a noise behind me and on looking around I saw two foxes fighting over a little ock which they had just caught. They clawed and tugged and bit as hard as they could on the very edge of the chasm. Then they suddenly caught sight of us not twenty feet away from them. They stopped fighting, looked up wonderingly, and began to run around and peep at us, first from one side then from the other. Over us, myriads of little ocks flew backward and forward screaming shrilly from the ledges in the mountain side. So far as we could make out there appeared to be open sea along the land to the westward. The wind was favourable and although we were tired we decided to take advantage of the opportunity, have something to eat, rig up mast and sail on our canoes and get a float. We sailed till the morning when the wind went down and then we landed on the shore ice again and camped. I am as happy as a child in the thought that we are now at last really on the west coast of Franz Josefland with open water before us and independent of ice and currents. End of file eleven. File twelve of farthest north volume two. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Recording by Sharon Riscadal. Farthest north by Fritschof Nansen, volume two. Chapter seven. Land at last, part two. Wednesday, August twenty-fourth. The vicissitudes of this life will never come to an end. When I wrote last I was full of hope and courage and here we are stopped by stress of weather for four days and three nights with the ice packed as tight as it can be against the coast. We see nothing but piled up ridges, hummocks and broken ice in all directions. Courage is still here but hope, the hope of soon being home, that was relinquished a long time ago and before us lies the certainty of a long dark winter in these surroundings. It was at midnight between the seventeenth and eighteenth that we set off from our last camping ground in splendid weather. Though it was cloudy and the sun invisible, there was along the horizon in the north the most glorious ready glow with golden sun-tipped clouds and the sea-lays shining and dreamy in the distance a marvellous night. On the surface of the sea smooth as a mirror without a block of ice as far as the eye could reach, glided the kayaks, the water purling off the paddles at every silent stroke. It was like being in a gondola on the canal grande. But there was something almost uncanny about all this stillness and the barometer had gone down rapidly. Meanwhile we sped towards the headland in the south-southwest which I thought was about twelve miles off. After some hours we aspired ice ahead but both of us thought that it was only a loose chain of pieces drifting with a current and we paddled confidently on. But as we gradually drew nearer we saw that the ice was fairly compact and extended a greater and greater distance. Though from the low kayaks it was not easy to see the exact extent of the pack. We accordingly disembarked and climbed up on a hammock to find out our best route. The sight which met us was anything but encouraging. Off the headland we were steering for were a number of islets and rocks extending some distance out to sea. It was they that were locking the ice which lay in every direction between them and outside them. Near us it was slack but farther off it looked much worse so that further advance by sea was altogether out of the question. Our only expedient was to take to the edge of the shore ice and hope for the chance that a lane might run along it some way farther on. On the way in we passed a seal lying on a flow and as our larder was beginning to grow empty I tried to get a shot at it but it dived into the water before we came within range. As we were paddling along through some small bits of ice my kayaks suddenly received a violent shock from underneath. I looked round in amazement as I had not noticed any large piece of ice hereabouts. There was nothing of the kind to be seen either but worse enemies were about. No sooner had I glanced down than I saw a huge walrus cleaving through the water a stern and it suddenly came up raised itself and stood on and just before Johansson who was following in my wake. Afraidless the animal should have its tusks through the deck of his craft the next minute he backed as hard as he could and felt for his gun which he had down in the kayak. I was not long either in pulling my gun out of its cover. The animal crashed snorting into the water again however dived under Johansson's kayak and came up just behind him. Johansson thinking he had had enough of such a neighbor scrambled incontentably onto the flow nearest him. After having waited a while with my gun ready for the walrus to come up close by me I followed his example. I very nearly came in for the cold bath which the walrus had omitted to give me. For the edge of the ice gave way just as I set my foot on it and the kayak drifted off with me standing upright in it and trying to balance it as best I could in order not to capsize. If the walrus had reappeared at that moment I should certainly have received it in its own element. Finally I succeeded in getting up onto the ice and for a long time afterwards the walrus swam round and round our flow where we made the best of the situation by having dinner. Sometimes it was near Johansson's kayak, sometimes near mine. We could see how it darted about in the water under the kayaks and it had evidently the greatest desire to attack us again. We thought of giving it a ball to get rid of it but had no great wish to part with the cartridge and besides it only showed us its nose and forehead which are not exactly the most vital spots to aim at when one's object is to kill with one shot. It was a great ox walrus. There is something remarkably fantastic and prehistoric about these monsters. I could not help thinking of a merman or something of the kind as it lay there just under the surface of the water blowing and snorting for quite a long while at a time and glaring at us with its round glassy eyes. After having continued in this way for some time it disappeared just as tracklessly as it had come and as we had finished our dinner we were able to go on our way again glad a second time not to have been upset or destroyed by its tusks. The most curious thing about it was that it came so entirely without warning suddenly rising up from the deep. Johansson had certainly heard a great splash behind him sometime before which he took to be a seal but perhaps it may have been the walrus. The lane along the shore ice gave us little satisfaction as it was completely covered with young ice and we could make no way. In addition to this a wind from the southwest sprang up which drove the ice onto us so there was nothing for it but to put in to the edge of the ice and wait until it should slacken again. We spread out the bag folded the tent over us and prepared for rest in the hope of soon being able to go on but this was not to be. The wind freshened the ice packed tighter and tighter there was soon no open water to be seen in any direction and even the open sea once we had come disappeared. All our hopes of getting home that year sank at one blow. After a while we realized that there was nothing to be done but to drag our loads farther in onto the shore ice and camp. To try and haul the canoes farther over this pack which was worse than any ice we had come across since we began our voyage we thought was useless. We should get very little distance in the day and it might cost us dear with the kayaks on the short sledges among all these ridges and hummocks and so we lay there day and night waiting for the wind to go down or to change. But it blew from the same quarter the whole time and matters were not improved by heavy fall of snow which made the ice absolutely impracticable. Our situation was not an attractive one in front of us massive broken sea ice close by land and the gods alone know if it will open again this year a good way behind this land which looked anything but inviting to spend the winter on around us impassable ice and our provender very much on the decline. The south coast of the country and Ere Harbour now appeared to our imagination a veritable land of Canaan and we thought that if only we were there all our troubles would be over. We hoped to be able to find Lee Smith's hut there or at any rate some remains of it so that we should have something to live in and we also hoped that where there no doubt was much open water it would be easy to find game. We regretted not having shot some seals while they were numerous. On the night when we left our last camping place there were plenty of them about. As Johansson was standing on the edge of the ice doing something to his kayak a seal came up just in front of him. He thought it was of a kind he had not seen before and shouted to me but at the same moment up came one black pole after another quiet and silent from ten to twenty in number all gazing at him with their great eyes he was quite non-plussed thought there was something uncanny about it and then they disappeared just as noiselessly as they had come. I consult him by telling him they really were of a kind we had not seen before on our journey they were young harp or saddleback seal foca groinlandica we saw several schools of them again later in the day meanwhile we kill time as best we could chiefly by sleeping On the early morning of the twenty first just as I lay thinking what would become of us if the ice should not slacken and we had no opportunity of adding to our larder the chances I thought did not seem very promising I heard something pawing and moving outside it might as usual be the packing of the ice but still I thought it was more like something on four legs I jumped up saying to Johansson that it must be a bear and then I suddenly heard it sniffing by the tent wall I peeped out through some holes on one side of it and saw nothing then I went across to a big hole on the other side of the tent and there I saw an enormous bear just outside it caught sight of me too at the same moment and slunk away but then stopped again and looked at the tent I snatched my gun down from the tent pole stuck it through the hole and sent the bear a ball in the middle of the chest it fell forward but raised itself again and struggled off so I had to give it the contents of the other barrel in the side it still staggered on but fell down between some hummocks a little way off an unusually large hebear and for the time all our troubles for food were ended the wind however continued steadily from the same quarter as there was not much shelter where we were encamped and furthermore as we were uncomfortably near the ridge where the ice was continually packing we removed and took up our abode farther in on the shore ice where we are still lying last night there was a bear about again but not quite so near the tent we went on an excursion inland yesterday to see what our prospects might be if we should be forced to spend a winter here I had hoped to find flatter ice farther in but instead it grew worse and worse the nearer we went to land and right in by the headland it was towering up and almost impassable the ice was piled against the very wall of the glacier we went up on the glacier and looked at the sound to the north of the headland a little way in the ice appeared to be flatter more like fjord ice but nowhere could we see lanes where there might be a chance of capturing seal there was no place for a hut either about here while on the other hand we found on the south side of the headland quite a smiling spot where the ground was fairly level and where there was some herbage and an abundance of moss and stones for building purposes but outside it again the ice towered up on the shore in chaotic confusion on all sides it was a little more level in the direction of the fjord or sound which ran far inland to the south and there it soon turned to flat fjord ice but there were no lanes there either where we could hope to capture seal there did not see much prospect of game but we comforted ourselves with the reflection that there were trucks of bears in every direction and bears would in case of necessity be our one resource for both food and clothes in the cliffs above us crowds of little ox had their nests as on all such places that we have passed by we also saw a fox the rock formation was a coarse grained basalt but by the side of the glacier we discovered a mound of loose half crumbled argyllaceous schist in which however we did not find any fossils some blocks which we thought very much like granite were also strewn about everywhere along the beach the glaciers were covered with red snow which had a very beautiful effect in the sunshine we were both agreed that it might be possible to winter here but hoped it was the first and last time we should set foot on the spot the way two at two was so bad that we hardly knew how we should get the sledges and kayaks there today at last the change we have longed and waited for so long has come last night the southwest wind quieted down the barometer which i have been tapping daily in vain has at last begun to rise a little and the wind has gone round to the opposite quarter the question now is whether if it keep there it will be able to drive the ice out again here comes a great gap in my diary and not till far on in the winter friday december sixth do i write i must at last try and patch the hole in my diary there has been so much to see about that i have got no writing done that excuse however is no longer available as we sleep nearly the whole 24 hours after having written my journal for august 24th i went out to look for a better and more sheltered place as the wind had changed and now blew straight into the tent i hoped too that this land wind might open up the ice and i therefore first set off to see whether any sign of slackening was to be discovered at the edge of the shore ice but the flows lay packed together as solidly as ever i found however a capital place for pitching the tent and we were busy moving thither when we suddenly discovered that the ice had split off to the landward and already there was a broad channel we certainly wanted the ice to open up but not on our landward side and now it was a question of getting across onto the shore ice again at any price so as not to drift out to sea with a pack but the wind had risen to a stiff breeze and it seemed more than doubtful whether we could manage to pull up against it even for so short a distance as across the channel this was rapidly growing broader and broader we had however to make an attempt and therefore set off along the edge towards a spot farther east which we thought would give us a little more shelter for launching our kayaks on arriving however we found that it would be no easy matter to launch them here either without getting them filled with water it blew so that the spoon drift was driven over the sea and the spray was dashed far in over the ice there was little else to be done but to pitch our tent and wait for better times we were now more than ever in need of shelter to keep the tent from being torn by the wind but search and tramp up and down as we might we could find no permanent resting place and at last had to content ourselves with the scant shelter of a little elevation which we thought would do we had not lain long before the gusts of wind made such onslaughts on the tent that we found it advisable to take it down to avoid having it torn to pieces we could now sleep securely in our bags beneath a prostrate tent and let the wind rage above us after a time I awoke and noticed that the wind had subsided so much that we could once more raise our tent and I crept out to look at the weather I was less pleasantly surprised on discovering that we were already far out to sea we must have drifted eight or ten miles from land and between it and us lay open sea the land now lay quite low far off on the horizon in the meantime however the weather had considerably improved and we once more set out along the edge of the ice to try to get our kayaks launched but it was no easy matter it was still blowing hard and the sea ran high in addition to this there were a number of loose flows beyond and these were in constant motion so that we had to be on the alert to prevent the kayaks from being crushed between them after some futile attempts we at length got afloat but only to discover that the wind and the waves were too strong we should scarcely be able to make any progress against them our only resource therefore was to sail if this were practicable we went alongside an ice promontory lashed the kayaks together raised the mast and again put to sea we soon had our single sail hoisted and to our unspeakable satisfaction we now found that we got along capitalally at last we should be able to bid farewell to the ice where we had been compelled to abandon our hope of reaching home that year we now continued sailing hour after hour and made good progress but then the wind dropped too much for our single sail and I ventured to set the whole double sail hardly had we done so when the wind again sprang up and we dashed foaming through the water this soon however became a little too much the sea washed over the lee kayak the mast bent dangerously and the situation did not look very pleasant there was nothing for it but to lower the sail again as quickly as possible the single sail was again hoisted and we were cured for some time of wishing to try anything more we sailed steadily and well the whole day and now at last had to pass the difficult cape but it was evening before we left it behind and now the wind dropped so much that the whole double sail had to be hoisted again and even then progress was slow we kept on however during the night along the shore determined to make as much use of the wind as possible we passed a low promontory covered by a gently sloping glacier a rounded lay a number of islands which must we thought have held the ice fast a little farther on we came under some high basaltic cliffs and here the wind dropped completely as it was also hazy and we could discern land and islands both to right and left of us so that we did not know in what direction to steer we put in here do the kayaks up on shore pitched the tent and cooked ourselves a good meal of warm food which we relished greatly from the consciousness of having done a good day's work above our heads all up the face of the cliff the little ox kept up a continual hubbub faithfully supported by the ivory gulls kitty wakes burgamasters and squas we slept none the worse for that however this was a beautiful mountain it consisted of the finest column near basalt one could wish to see with its buttresses and niches up the face of the cliff and its countless points and spires along every crest reminding one of the Milan Cathedral from top to bottom it was only column upon column at the base they were all lost in the talus when we turned out the following morning the weather had so far cleared that we could better see the way we ought to take it appeared as if a deep fjord or sound ran in eastward in front of us and our way distinctly lay round a promontory which we had to the south southwest on the other side of the fjord in that direction the water appeared to be open while within the fjord lay solid ice and out to sea drift ice lay everywhere through the misty atmosphere we could also distinguish several islands here too as we usually found in the morning a great quantity of ice had drifted in in the course of the night great flat and thin flows which had settled themselves in front of us and it looked as if we should have hard work to get out into open water things went a little better than we expected however and we got through before it closed in entirely in front of us now lay open water right past the promontory far ahead the weather was good and everything seemed to promise a successful day as it began to blow a little from the fjord and we hoped it might become a sailing wind we put in beside a little rocky island which looked just like a great stone sticking up out of the sea and there rigged up mast and sail but the sailing wind came to nothing and we were soon obliged to unrig and take to paddling we had not paddled far when the wind went round to the opposite quarter the southwest it increased rapidly and soon the sea ran high the sky became overcast in the south and it looked as if the weather might become stormy we were still several miles from the land on the other side of the fjord and we might have many hours of hard paddling before we gained it this land too looked far from inviting as it lay there entirely covered with glacier from a summit right to the shore only in one place did a little rock emerge to leeward we had the margin of the shore ice low and affording no protection the waves broke right upon it and it would not be a good place to seek refuge in should such a proceeding become necessary it would be best to get in under land and see how the weather would turn out we did not like the prospect of once more being enclosed in the drift ice we had had enough of that by this time so we made for some land which lay a little way behind us and looked very inviting should matters turn out badly a good place for wintering in might be found there scarcely had I set foot on land when I saw a bear a little way up the shore and drew up our kayaks to go and shoot it in the meantime it came shambling along the shore towards us so we lay down quietly behind the kayaks and waited when close up to us it cut sight of our footprints in the snow and while it was sniffing at them Johansen sent a bullet behind its shoulder the bear roared and tried to run but the bullet had gone through the spine and the hind part of its body was paralyzed and refused to perform its functions in perplexity the bear sat down and bit and tore its hind paws until the blood flowed as if it were chastising them to make them do their duty then it tried again to move away but with the same result the hind part of its body was no longer amenable to discipline and dragged behind so that it could only shuffle along on its forelegs going round in a ring a ball through the skull put an end to its sufferings when we had skinned it we made an excursion inland to inspect our new domain and we're now not a little surprised to see two walruses lying quietly on the ice close to the spot where I had first cut sight of the bear this seemed to me to show how little heed walruses pay to bears who will never attack them if they can help it I had more decisive proofs of this subsequently in the sea beyond we also saw a walrus which kept putting up its head and breathing so hard that it could be heard a long way off a little later I saw him approach the edge of the ice and disappear only to appear again in the tidal channel close to the shore a good way from the edge of the ice he struck his great tusks into the edge of the ice while he lay breathing hard just like an exhausted swimmer then he raised himself high up on his tusks and looked across the ice towards the others lying there and then dived down again he soon reappeared with a great deal of noise farther in and the same performance was gone through again a walrus's head is not a beautiful object as it appears above the ice with its huge tusks its coarse whisker bristles and clumsy shape there is something wild and goblin like about it which I can easily understand might inspire fear in more superstitious times and give rise to the idea of fabulous monsters which in ancient days the seas were thought to swarm at last the walrus came up in the hole beside which the others were lying and raised himself a little way up on to the edge of the ice by his tusks but upon this the bigger of the two a huge old bull suddenly awoke to life he grunted menacingly and moved about restlessly the newcomer bout his head respectfully down to the ice but soon pulled himself cautiously up onto the flow so as to get a hold with his forepaddle and then drew himself a little way in now the old bull was thoroughly roused he turned round bellowed and floundered up to the newcomer in order to dig his enormous tusks into his back the latter who appeared to be the old bull's equal both as regards tusks and size bowed humbly and laid his head down upon the ice just like a slave before his sultan the old bull returned to his companion and lay quietly down as before but no sooner did the newcomer stir after having lain for some time in this servile posture than the old bull grunted and thrust at him and he once more respectfully drew back this was repeated several times at length after much maneuvering backward and forward the newcomer succeeded in drawing himself onto the flow and finally up beside the others i thought the tender passion must have something to do with these proceedings but i discovered afterwards that all three were males and it is in this friendly manner that walruses receives our guests it appears to be especially chosen member of the flock that has these hospitable duties to perform i'm inclined to think it is the leader who is asserting his dignity and wishes to impress upon every newcomer that he is to be obeyed these animals must be exceedingly sociable when in spite of such treatment they thus constantly seek one another society and always lie close together when we returned a little later to look at them another had arrived and by the following morning six lay there side by side it is not easy to believe that these lumps lying on the ice are living animals with head drawn in and hind legs flat beneath the body they will lie motionless hour after hour looking like enormous sausages it is easy to see that these fellows lie there in security and fearful of nothing in the world after having seen as much as we wanted of the walruses at close quarters we went back prepared a good meal from the newly slaughtered bear and lay down to sleep on the shore below the tent the ivory gulls were making a fearful hubbub they had gathered in scores from all quarters and could not agree as to the fair division of the bear's entrails they fought incessantly filling the air with their angry cries it is one of nature's unaccountable freaks to have made this bird so pretty while giving it such an ugly voice at a little distance the burgo master sat solemnly looking on and uttering there's somewhat more melodious notes out in the sea the walruses were blowing and bellowing incessantly but everything passed unheeded by the two weary warriors in the tent they slept soundly with the bear ground for their couch in the middle of the night we were awakened however by a peculiar sound it was just like someone whimpering and crying and making great to do i started up and looked out of the peephole two bears were standing down beside our bear's flesh a she bear and her young one and both sniffing at the bloody marks in the snow while the she bear wailed as if mourning for a dear departed one i lost no time in seizing my gun and was just putting it cautiously out when the she bear caught sight of me at the peephole and off they both set the mother in front and the young one trotting after as fast as it could i just let them run we really had no use for them and then we turned over and went to sleep again nothing came of the storm we had feared the wind blew hard enough however to rend and tear our now well-worn tent and there was no shelter where we lay we hoped to go on the following day but found to our disappointment that the way was blocked the wind had again driven the ice in we must remain for the present where we were but in that case we would make ourselves as comfortable as possible the first thing to be done was to seek for a warm well-sheltered place for the tent but this was not to be found there was nothing for it but to get something built up of stone we quarried stone in the debris at the bottom of the cliff and got together as much as we could the only quarrying implement we had was a runner that had been cut off a hand sledge but our two hands were what we had to use most we worked away during the night what we had at first only intended to be a shelter from the wind grew little by little into four walls and we now kept at it until we had finished a small hut it was nothing very wonderful heaven knows not long enough for a man of my height to lie straight inside i had to stick my feet out at the door and just brought enough to admit of our lying side by side and leave room for the cooking apparatus it was worse however with regard to the height there was room to lie down but to sit up decently straight was an impossibility for me the roof was made of our thin and fragile silk tent spread over snowshoes and bamboo rods we closed the doorway with our coats and the walls were so loosely put together that we could see daylight between the stones on all sides we afterwards called it the den and a dreadful den it was too but we were nonetheless proud of our handiwork it would not blow down at any rate even though the wind did blow right through it when we had got our bare skin in as a couch and lay warm and comfortable in our bag while a good pot full of meat bubbled over the train oil lamp we thought existence of pleasure and the fact of there being so much smoke that our eyes became red and the tears streamed down our cheeks could not destroy our feeling of content as progress southward was blocked also on the following day august 28th and as autumn was now drawing on i had last resolved on remaining here for the winter i thought that we still had more than 138 miles to travel in order to reach era harbour or lee smith's wintering place it might take us a long time to get there and then we were not sure of finding any hut and when we did get there it would be more than doubtful if before the winter set in there would be time to build a house and also gather stores for the winter it was undoubtedly the safest plan to begin at once to prepare for wintering while there was still plenty of game to be had and this was a good spot to enter in the first thing i should like to have done was to have shot the walruses that had been lying on the ice during the first day or two but now of course they were gone the sea however was swarming with them they bellowed and blew night and day and in order to be ready for an encounter with them we emptied our kayaks to make them more easy of manipulation in this somewhat dangerous chase while thus engaged yohansen caught sight of two bears a she bear and her cub coming along the edge of the ice from the south we lost no time in getting our guns and setting off towards them by the time they reached the shore they were within range and yohansen sent a bullet through the mother's chest she roared bit at the wound staggered a few steps and fell the young one could not make out what was the matter with its mother and ran round sniffing at her when we approached it went off a little way up the slope but soon came back again and took up a position over its mother as if to defend her against us a charge of small shot put an end to its life this was a good beginning to our winter store as i was returning to the hut to fetch the seal knives i heard cries in the air above me there were actually two geese flying south with what longing i looked after them as they disappeared only wishing that i could have followed them to the land towards which they were now wending their flight next to food and fuel the most important thing was to get a hut built to build the walls of this was not difficult there was plenty of stone and moss the roof presented greater difficulty and we had as yet no idea what to make it of fortunately i found a sound driftwood pine log thrown up onto the shore not far from our den this would make a capital ridge piece for the roof of our future house and if there was one there might be others one of our first acts therefore was to make an excursion up along the shore and search but all we found was one short rotten piece of wood which was good for nothing and some chips of another piece i then began to think of using walrus hides for the roof instead the following day august 29th we prepared to try our luck at walrus hunting we had no great desire to attack the animals in single kayaks we had had enough of that i thought and the prospect of being upset or of having a tusk driven through the bottom of the kayak or into one's thigh was not altogether alluring the kayaks were therefore lashed together and seated upon the ring we put out towards the big bull which lay and dived just outside we were well equipped with guns and harpoons and thought that it was all quite simple nor was it difficult to get within range and we emptied our barrels into the animal's head it lay stunned for a moment and we rode towards it but suddenly it began to splash and whirl around in the water completely beside itself i shouted out that we must back but it was too late the walrus got under the kayaks and we received several blows underneath in the violence of its contortions before it finally dived it soon came up again and now the sound of its breathing resounded on all sides while blood streamed from its mouth and nostrils and died the surrounding water we lost no time in rowing up to it and pouring a fresh volley into its head again it dived and we cautiously drew back to avoid receiving an attack from below it soon appeared again and we once more rode up to it these maneuvers were repeated and each time it came to the surface it received at least one bullet in the head and grew more and more exhausted but as it always faced us it was difficult to give it a mortal wound behind the ear the blood however now flowed in streams during one of these maneuvers i was in the act of placing my gun hurriedly in its case on the deck in order to row nearer forgetting that it was cocked when all it once it went off i was rather alarmed thinking the ball had gone through the bottom of the kayak and i began feeling my legs they were uninjured however and as i did not hear the water rushing in either i was reassured the ball had passed through the deck and out through the side a little above the water line we had now had enough of this sport however the walrus only lay gasping for breath and just as we rode towards it it turned its head a little and received two bullets just behind the ear it lay still and we rode up to throw our harpoon but before we got near enough it sank and disappeared it was a melancholy ending to the affair in all nine cartridges had been expended to no purpose and we silently rode to shore not a little crest fallen we tried no more walrus hunting from kayaks that day but we now saw that a walrus had come up on to the shore ice a little way off perhaps we were to receive compensation there for the one we had just lost it was not long before another came up beside the first after having taken an observation and given them time to compose themselves we set off having bellowed and made a horrible noise out there for some time they now lay asleep and unsuspecting and we stole cautiously up to them i in front and yohansen close at my heels i first went up to the head of the nearer one which was lying with its back to us as it had drawn its head well down and it was difficult to get a shot at a vulnerable point i passed behind it and up to the head of the other one the animal still lay motionless asleep in the sun the second was in a better position for a shot and when i saw yohansen standing ready at the head of the first i fired at the back of the neck the animal turned over a little and lay there dead at the report the first started up but at the same moment received yohansen's bullet half stunned it turned its gigantic body round towards us in a moment i had discharged the ball from my smoothbore at it but like yohansen i hit too far forward in the head the blood streamed from its nostrils and mouth and it breathed and coughed till the air vibrated supporting itself upon its enormous tusks it now lay still coughing blood like a consumptive person and quite indifferent to us in spite of its huge body and shapeless appearance which called up to the imagination boogie giant and kraken and other evil things there was something so gently supplicating and helpless in its round eyes as it lay there that its goblin exterior and one's own need were forgotten in pity for it it almost seemed like murder i put an end to its sufferings by a bullet behind the ear but those eyes haunt me yet it seemed as if in them lay the prayer for existence of the whole helpless walrus race but it is lost it has man as its pursuer it cannot however be denied that we rejoiced at the thought of all the meat and blubber we had now brought down in one encounter it made up for the cartridges expended upon the one that had sunk but we had not got them on land yet and it would be a long piece of work to get them skinned and cut up and brought home the first thing we did was to go after sledges and knives as there was a possibility too of the ice breaking off and being set adrift i also thought it wise to take the kayaks on the sledges at the same time for it had begun to blow a little from the fjord but for this fortunate precaution it is not easy to say what would have become of us while we were engaged in skinning the wind rose rapidly and soon became a storm to landward of us was the narrow channel or lane beside which the walruses had been lying i feared that the ice might open here and we drift away while we worked i therefore kept an eye on it to see if it grew broader it remained unchanged and we went on skinning as fast as we could when the first walrus was half skinned i happened to look landward across the ice and discovered that it had broken off a good way from us and that the part on which we stood had already been drifting for some time there was black water between us and the shore ice and the wind was blowing so that the spray flew from the foaming waves there was no time to be lost it was more than doubtful whether we should be able to paddle any great distance against that wind and sea but as yet the ice did not appear to have drifted a greater distance from the land than we could cross if we made haste we could not bring ourselves to give up entirely the huge animals we had brought down and we hurriedly cut off as much flesh as we could get at and flung it into the kayaks we then cut off about a quarter of the skin with the blubber on it and threw it on the top and then set off for the shore we had scarcely abandoned our booty before the gulls bore down in scores upon the half skinned carcass happy creatures wind and waves and drifting were nothing to them they screamed and made a hubbub and thought what a feast they were having as long as we could see the carcasses as they drifted out to sea we saw the birds continually gathering in larger and larger flocks about them like clouds of snow in the meantime we were doing our utmost to gain the ice but it had developed cracks and channels in every direction we managed to get some distance in the kayaks but while i was crossing a wide channel on some loose flows i lighted on such poor ice that it sank under my weight and i had to jump back quickly to escape a bath we tried in several places but everywhere it sank beneath us and our sledges and there was nothing for it but to take to the water keeping along the lee side of the ice but we had not rode far before we perceived that it was of no use to have our kayaks lashed together in such a wind we had to row singly and sacrifice the walrus hide and blubber which it then became impossible to take with us at present it was lying across the stern of both kayaks while we were busy affecting these changes we were surrounded before we were aware of it by ice and had to pull the kayaks up hastily to save them from being crushed we now tried to get out at several places but the ice was in constant motion it ground round as in a whirlpool if a channel opened we had no sooner launched our kayaks than at once more closed violently and we had to snatch them up in the greatest haste several times they were within a hair's breadth of being smashed meanwhile the storm was steadily increasing the spray dashed over us and we drifted farther and farther out to sea the situation was not pleasant at length however we got clear and now discover to our joy that by exerting our utmost strength we could just force the kayaks on against the wind it was a hard pull and our arms ached but still we crept slowly on towards land the sea was choppy and bad but our kayaks were good sea boats and even mine with a bullet hole in it did so well that I kept to some extent dry the wind came now and then in such gusts that we felt as if it might lift us out of the water and upset us but gradually as we drew nearer in under the high cliffs it became quieter and at last after a long time we reached the shore and could take breath we then rode in smoother water along the shore up to our camping place it was with genuine satisfaction that we clamored on shore that night and how unspeakably comfortable it was to be lying against snugly within four walls in our little den wet though we were a good pot full of meat was prepared and our appetite was ravenous it was indeed was sorrow that we thought of the lost walruses now drifting out there in the storm but we were glad that we were not still in their company I had not slept long when I was awakened by Johansson who said there was a bear outside even when only half awake I heard a strange low grunting just outside the doorway I started up seized my gun and crept out a she bear with two large cubs was going up the shore they had just passed close by our door I aimed at the she bear but in my haste I missed her she started and looked round and as she turned her broadside to me I sent a bullet through her chest she gave a fearful roar and all three started off down the shore there the mother dropped in a pool on the ice but the young ones ran on and rushed into the sea dashing up the foam as they went and began to swim out I hastened down to the mother who was striving and striving to get out of the pool but in vain to save ourselves the labor of dragging the heavy animal out I waited until she had drawn herself up to the edge and then put an end to her existence meanwhile the young ones had reached a piece of ice it was very close quarters for two and only just large enough to hold them but there they sat balancing and dipping up and down in the waves every now and then one of them fell off but patiently clamored up again they cried plaintively and incessantly and kept looking towards land unable to understand why their mother was so long and coming the wind was still high and they drifted quickly out to see before it with the current we thought they would at last swim to land to look for their mother and that we must wait we therefore hid ourselves among the stones so that they should not be afraid of coming on our account we could still hear them complaining but the sound became more and more distant and they grew smaller and smaller out there on the blue waves till at last it was all we could do to distinguish them as two white dots far out upon the dark plain we had long been tired of this and went to our kayaks but here a sad sight met our eyes all the walrus flesh which we had brought home with so much trouble lay scattered about on the shore torn and mangled and every bit of fat or blubber to be found on it had been devoured the bears must have been rummaging finally here while we slept one of the kayaks in which the meat had been lying was thrown half into the water the other high up among the stones the bears had been right into them and dragged out the meat but fortunately they were none the worse so it was easy to forgive the bears and we benefited by the exchange of bears flesh for walrus flesh we then launched the kayaks and put off to chase the young ones to land as soon as ever they saw us on the water they became uneasy and while we were still some way off one of them took to the water the other hesitated for a while as if afraid of the water while the first waited impatiently but at last they both went in we made a wide circuit round them and began to drive them towards the land one of us on each side of them it was easy to make them go in whatever direction we wanted and Johansson could not say enough in praise of this simple method of getting bears from one place to another we did not need to row hard to keep up with them we went slowly and easily but surely towards land we saw several walruses in the vicinity but fortunately escaped being attacked by any of them from the very first it was evident how much better the bear that first went into the water swam although it was the smaller and thinner it waited however patiently for the other and kept it company but at last the pace of the ladder became too slow for its companion who struck out for the shore the distance between the two growing greater and greater they had kept incessantly turning their heads to look anxiously at us and now the one that was left behind looked round even more helplessly than before while I set off after the first bear Johansson watched the second and we drove them ashore by our den and shot them there we had thus taken three bears on that day and this was a good set off against our walruses which had drifted out to sea and what was no less fortunate we found the sunken walrus from the day before floating just at the edge of the shore we lost no time in towing it into a place of safety in a creek and making it fast it made a difference to our winter store it was late before we turned in that night after having skinned the bears laid them in a heap and covered them with the skins to prevent the gulls from getting at them we slept well for we had to make up for two nights it was not until September second that we could set to work on the skinning of our walrus which still lay in the water close to our den there was an opening in the strand ice connecting the inner channel between the strand ice and the land with the outer sea it was in this opening that we had made it fast and we hope to be able to draw it on land here the glacier ice went with a gentle incline right out into the water so that it seemed to promise well we rounded off the edge of the ice made a tackle by drawing the rope through a loop we cut in the skin of the head used our broken off runner of a sledge as a hand spike at the end of the rope and cut notches in the ice up the beach as a fulcrum for the hand spike but work and toil as we might it was all we could do to get the huge head up over the edge of the ice in the midst of this Johansson cried I say look there I turned a large walrus was swimming straight up the channel towards us it did not seem to be in any hurry but only opened wide its round eyes and gazed in astonishment at us and at what we were doing I suppose that seeing a comrade it had come in to see what we were doing with him quietly slowly and with dignity it came right up to the edge where we stood fortunately we had our guns with us and when I approached with mine it only rose up in the water and gazed long and searchingly at me I waited patiently until it turned a little and then sent a bullet into the back of its head it was stunned for a time but soon began to move so that more shots were required while Johansson ran for cartridges and a harpoon I had to fight with it as I best could and try to prevent it with a stick from splashing out of the channel again at last Johansson returned and I did for this walrus we were delighted over our good fortune but what the walrus wanted in that narrow channel we have always wondered these animals must be uncommonly curious while we were skinning the bears two days before a walrus with its young one came close in to the edge of the ice and gazed at us it dived several times but always returned and at last do the whole of the four part of its body up onto the ice in order to see better this it did several times and my approaching to within a few yards of it did not drive it away it was only when I went up close to it with my gun that it suddenly came to its senses and threw itself backward into the water again and we could see it far below moving off with its young one by its side we now had two great walruses with enormous tusks floating in our channel we tried once more to drag one of them up but the attempt was as unsuccessful as before at last we saw that our only course was to skin them in the water but this was neither an easy nor an agreeable task when at last late in the evening we had got one side of one animal skinned it was low water the walrus lay on the bottom and there was no possibility of turning it over no matter how we toiled and pulled we had to wait for high tide the following day in order to get at the other side while we were busy with the walruses that day we suddenly saw the whole fjord white with white whales gambling all round as far as the eye could see there was an incredible number of them in the course of an hour they had entirely disappeared where they came from and whether they went I was not able to discover during the succeeding days we toiled at our task of skinning and cutting up the walruses and bringing all up into a safe place on the beach it was disgusting work lying on the animals out in the water and having to cut down as far as one could reach below the surface of the water we could put up with getting wet for one gets dry in time but what was worse was that we could not avoid being saturated with blubber and oil and blood from head to foot and our poor clothes that we should have to live in for another year before we could change fared badly during those days they so absorbed oil that it went right through to the skin this walrus business was unquestionably the worst work of the whole expedition and had it not been a sheer necessity we should have let the animals lie where they were but we needed fuel for the winter even if we could have done without the meat when at last the task was completed and we had two great heaps of blubber and meat on shore well covered by the thick walrus hides we were not a little pleased during this time the gulls were living in there was abundance of refuse blubber entrails and other internal organs they gathered in large flocks from all quarters both ivory and glockus gulls and kept up a perpetual screaming and noise both night and day when they had eaten as much as they could manage they generally sat out on the ice hummocks and shattered together when we came down to skin they withdrew only a very little way from the carcasses and sat waiting patiently in long rows on the ice beside us or led on by a few bold officers drew continually nearer no sooner did a little scrap of blubber fall than two or three ivory gulls would pounce upon it often at our very feet and fight over it until the feathers flew outside the fulmers were sailing in their silent ghostlike flight to and fro over the surface of the water up and down the edge of the shore flocks of kitty-wakes moved incessantly darting like an arrow with a dull splash towards the surface of the water whenever little crustacean appeared there we were particularly fond of these birds for they kept exclusively to the marine animals and left our blubber alone and then they were so light and pretty but up and down along the shore the squaw staircore rarious crepedotus chased incessantly and every now and again we were startled by a pitiful cry of distress above our heads it was a kitty-wake pursued by a squaw how often we followed with our eyes that wild chase up in the air until at last the kitty-wake had to drop its booty and downshot the squaw catching it even before touched the water happy creatures that can move with such freedom up there out in the water lay walruses diving and ballowing often a whole herds of them and high up in the air to and fro flew the little oxen swarms you could hear the whir of their wings far off there were cries and life on all sides but soon the sun will sink the sea will close in the birds will disappear one after another towards the south the polar night will begin and there will be profound unbroken silence end of file 12