 What's up internet? Buying PC parts can be expensive but here's some rules of thumb ay mga madaling tandaan so you don't have to think too much when trying to save on PC parts. Ang video na to ay handog ni CDKoffers.com. Maram kang mahanap na ibat-ibang uri ng software dito, may games, apps, activation codes or Windows 10. Check out our video on CDKoffers in the video description. Mabilis, mura, and siyempre legit dito. Madalil ang mag-order, search for the software you need, add to cart, check out, dan ka sa payment options nila, wala pa isang minuto, finished. May legit working CDK ka na sa software na pinilimu. Gamitin ang aming promo code para mahakakuhapan ng extra 20% discount sa purchase mo. Kung naghanap ka ng mura, legit, and original software, check out CDKoffers.com. But they do come at a price premium because their white does set them apart from the usual run-of-the-mill black which is common in the industry. So if you see a case or some other component that looks good in white but you're okay with it in black, you should check the price of the black version. It might be cheaper. The exception which proves the rule is Noctua which comes in its signature Noctua brown. And people have been gagging for an alternative to Noctua brown for so long that finally when Noctua decided to release its chromax line usually in black, usually the chromax black which is more expensive than the standard Noctua brown version. And finally, on color, RGB is usually always more expensive than non-RGB. So do check your components and if you're okay with them in a different color, you might be able to find one which is cheaper with exactly the same performance and specs and everything is the same except for the color and you might be able to save some money that way. Number two, stick to the plan. A lot of work and planning goes into the preparation for construction and the same is true for a PC build. Kaya nga siya tinatawag na PC build. So a lot of planning is done beforehand to make sure that all of the parts and components are compatible and mesh well together. But you need to stick to the plan. But I want my RGB. Stay on target. We can make it work. Stay on target. For example, and we get this a lot, a customer comes into the shop asking for a build and he's very specific that no RGB should be used. So we select the parts and we're halfway through the build and suddenly the customer comes back to us and suddenly the customer has changed his mind. Suddenly he wants RGB. Perhaps he's seen all of the RGB goodness here at the shop. But it's very difficult to change it now because we chose a motherboard without any RGB header or ARGB header because the customer said he wanted no RGB and we wanted to save him some money by choosing a MOBO with no RGB control. And yes, now we can still have RGB in the build but it's not as nice because without the headers on the motherboard then you won't be able to control the RGB through software. Or you can if you use something expensive like Corsair or NZXT which connect via internal USB but either way the customer will have to spend more money now instead of he had just decided in the beginning that he wanted RGB and that was the plan that we were executing on or a customer decides that he wants air cooling. So fine, we're doing the build and then again halfway through the build the customer decides that these AIOs sound fancy and I love the Kraken Z63 let's put that in. The problem now is the case we chose was chosen for air cooling so not for the size of the radiator that can fit into that case. So now we might need to change the case or find some other AIO which is smaller which will fit into the case. The whole point of having a plan is cutting down options and then optimizing the remaining options on the table. But if midway through you change the plan then that can really lead to a lot of expense because now we need to recompute or recalibrate the rig to adapt to the new plan. So to save money, come up with a plan, decide that that's what you want and then stick with it. Tip 3, get the non-Wi-Fi version of your motherboard. Personally, I still like using LAN cables over Wi-Fi because I find them to be more reliable and the non-Wi-Fi version of a MOBO is usually cheaper than its Wi-Fi counterpart. Example, these two B550 motherboards from Gigabyte basically the only difference between them is one has on-board Wi-Fi and the price difference is around $25 or $1,250 that's around a 15% difference. So you can look at it as the non-Wi-Fi version being on a 15% discount from its more expensive Wi-Fi cousin. And that's great for people like me who don't need the on-board Wi-Fi and maybe that fits your requirements as well. The price savings are even greater if you compare across different models of motherboards. For example, the X578 Pro of MSI is around $170, whereas the Wi-Fi models are around $250 to $300 plus. And yes, it's a bit unfair to compare across different models because apples and oranges, some models have different features and are configured differently to the maybe cheaper 6578 Pro. But they are all using the same X570 chipset and it's not like the more expensive models of MSI have a particularly good reputation for BMR thermal performance. So again, you do save some money if you just stick with the cheaper X570 and find a different option for Wi-Fi instead of having to rely on the on-board integrated version. If you really need Wi-Fi, you can get a cheap dongle from the likes of TP-Link. Yes, it won't be as fast as a Wi-Fi 6-ready on-board Wi-Fi of the latest mobos. But realistically, very few people can use Wi-Fi 6 speeds in their current setups. We have a long-time customer who is quite demanding on his internet connection, plays a lot of online games and streams, and he swears these dongles are reliable and capable enough for his needs. And their added cost is still cheaper than if you got a mobo with on-board Wi-Fi. Bonus tip, at least just for gigabyte, they designate all their mobos with Wi-Fi as AC. So if you see dash AC in the product name, that means that motherboard has Wi-Fi on board. Tip 4 is don't get the gaming version. When you think of gaming, you think of optimization. Things have been optimized to run even faster than their stock specs. That's also what I think about gaming. But when manufacturers think about gaming, all they hear is because for manufacturers, gaming is just tacked on to any product name to signify speed without actually meaning anything. It allows them to charge more because in the mind of the consumer, one thing must be different if they designated this as gaming. But again, an example from motherboards, here we have the MSI X570 Tomahawk Wi-Fi versus the X570 Gaming Pro Carbon Wi-Fi. And a quick glance at the specs, at least on paper, shows that the specs are basically the same. And the reviews even tip in favor of the cheaper Tomahawk Wi-Fi because it has better VRM cooling compared to the thermal performance of the VRM on the Gaming Pro Carbon Wi-Fi. So just because it has gaming in the name, doesn't mean that anything has really been tweaked. It's just a money grab by the manufacturer. And again, not really fair to compare because apples and oranges, the Tomahawk Wi-Fi is a different model from the Gaming Pro Carbon Wi-Fi. But it's exactly what manufacturers want. You're confused about all the different models and you see the word gaming. And then even though it's more expensive, you pick it up because you trust that siguro naman kasi gaming toh mas nabilis toh. But again, it ain't so cheaper, better performance sometimes if you opt for the non-gaming branded product. The abuse of the word gaming as marketing pap is very clear in gaming chairs. What separates a gaming chair from an office chair, from a regular chair, from a luxury chair? Do gaming chairs make you react faster? Do they cool you down? Do they make you see in more frames per second than your eyes normally can? It's a chair with the word gaming stuck to the front. Because of that, again, some manufacturers can get away with large markups on the chair. Even though it's just a chair whether you call it gaming or not. Tip 5 is sakto lang na RAM speed. Motherboards can only run RAM at certain speed. So for example, you're super excited to get RAM that runs at 3600 megahertz. And you plop it into your machine thinking that of course it will run at 3600. But then you check and your motherboard only runs RAM up to a maximum of 3000. Yes, you can still use that RAM but it will be throttled at the maximum of the motherboard which is 3000 megahertz. So be sure to check before buying RAM that your motherboard actually supports the speed of that RAM. Otherwise, you're wasting money on a faster component that you'll never feel the speed of. Fortunately, it's easy to check and most of the reputable manufacturers have the supported RAM speed in their basic spec sheets for their motherboards. And finally, bonus tip. Most likely, if you're doing a build, you're going to need Windows 10 and Windows 10 is free, guys. You don't need to pay for it. The unactivated, meaning free version, just has all the features and performance as the paid version. I talked about this before in a previous video so you can check that out. But basically, if you don't want to pay for Windows 10, you don't need to. Just download it from Microsoft and it has everything you need already there. You don't need to pay upon download and you don't need to pay when you're using it. So I hope these tips help save you some money when buying PC parts and it can be an expensive hobby but part of the fun is getting the most performance at the best budget possible. Thanks for watching. And all the thanks in the world to our top fans, Christian Espinosa, John Ruben Ocha, ITX addict, Richard Ongkinko, Ian Meru and Lia Magnaie. Your support really goes a long way to helping upgrade the production quality of the channel and we really, really appreciate it. Thanks so much.