 What is happening YouTube thanks for tuning back into the channel today right here with the Rust Belt mechanic. So today we made it all the way up here to Wisconsin where at Ryan's diesel performance and Kodiak trucks we're going to be doing something really cool for you guys today. We're going to be doing some driveline work. Mark with Kodiak truck is going to be hooking us up. We're going to be doing some custom transfer case work and we'll see what kind of trouble we get into with it. Make sure you guys stay tuned. Truck master! Hey can I get your autograph? Like this is a for real YouTuber. Like for reals guys. Hang on, hang on. I don't have a pin. Oh shit. All right we'll get one later. All right cool. I'll give you a hug. So in this industry we all make mistakes here and there and I'll be the first one to admit that I definitely do the same. Over the last month or so we had the cab off. I had heads off about every single nut and bolt and on this instance come to find out that I kind of missed something. The the trans mounts that goes on the rear mount here we can have a look up on under it. See if we can get it here. Right up there those two little mounts that go through the trans mount. Guess some some dummy forgot to put the actual nuts back in the mount there. So I've been running around with trans mount kind of just flopping in the wind. It's a good thing I haven't been beating on it all that hard. Well I guess we live and learn. We'll get some new nuts. Basically this is just plug for your encoder motor for your shifting and your speed sensor in the tail. That's basically it. And then of course you know like all your little ricketing clips and whatnot. Yep your clips hold your harness that run around to the back here. Yeah it's pretty straightforward. One of the things I always look for when getting one of these cases out is always check the front input. You don't want to see excessive movement there. We've had some that come back as cores and we'll show you some of them later. We got them under the bench that are just blasted. If this input can move also it'll end up taking out the range fork in the front of the case and you can have a symptom where the word acts like it kicks into neutral which is basically what it's doing. We can show you them parts here in just a little bit. We'll grab some and show that to you but this thing's nice and tight. It looks good but the truck only has 100,000 miles on so we're in good shape with this thing. So we'll do all our upgrades. We're going to knock this down. We're going to get a few of these bearings out of here. The front output bearing I don't like the idea. From the factory they got a plastic cage holding all the balls separated in there. We always use a metal cage bearing on those and you're locked in four wheel drive. If you're truck pulling you're pounding on the thing you get a lot of tire shake or anything going down the track. I don't like the idea of plastic in a bearing. So we'll put metal cage bearings in there and we'll get this thing all tuned up. We're ripping this thing apart. We ended up finding out where did that clip go? The clip here for the retaining ring on it is actually already got a snapped end to it. We get some zoomage on that one. It's already broken off as compared to that end. So only with 100,000 miles on this one at pretty light use and obviously a clean inner case you're still going to have broken crap. So as you can see this guy kind of knows what he's doing. He might be able to do it in his sleep three or four times. Do you ever sleep, Bill? I do. It just in when you see transfer cases in your sleep. So we're going to go over the internals here and we'll see what kind of we've got working with. Alright so Mark's got this thing all ripped apart in about 437 pieces and we did it like lickety split like. So you've been doing this for quite a while. Now let's go over individually these parts. What kind of failure points are we looking at on the transfer case for the LBZ? Sure for any of them what we want to do as soon as we get it apart is we check plenitary gear. Each gear on here we check for any movement. We also check to make sure the plastic thrusts down in here are not broken. That can be another issue. We're definitely going to knock our pocket bearing out of the input gear. Get that out. Always replace that. We've had a few that if you chance it and say well the bearing looks good I'm going to run it. They'll get a hairline crack in here and you won't see it and that's basically a freeze plug built right into the bearing. What'll end up happening is your trans will overfill the case and you'll take it in and they'll replace the input seal and it didn't catch the fact that these bearings crack. Very common on the Magna cases. Seven and a half and newer. They'll break their snap ring groove on the rear mainshaft. The mainshaft will try to go forward and it'll literally bust this pocket right out of the front but it'll hang in there and nobody'll see it and you can't see it in and around the spline when you look through the front of it. So it is a common problem and then basically we're just going to go through and look at everything else. All three in up style cases have replaceable pads. The 0102s had an integrated pad where it was injection molded on it much like the mode forks. The rest of the internals in this case are gorgeous. Everything's beautiful in here. All the forks are in good shape. All the internal pieces. We always check the range hub to the back the input gear for spline wear. Also check the back of the planetary when you're in low range. Everything is spec on. Now when you were talking about the differences in holding together the bearings with the plastic retainer for the front output, where was that one located at? That's located in the front case half which this is your front output shaft that comes out the front of the case and that bearing is located right on here and we will dig that bearing back out so you guys can see exactly what we're talking about. Here's the bearing that goes in there and all the cages that hold all these balls separate are all plastic. We're going to put a metal cage bearing in there. That's kind of crazy. I didn't know that these had retainers inside of them that were just plastic. When you're talking about as much wear and tear as these things get that we're doing plastic insertions into these bearings that's just nuts to me. So now as far as the pump goes here in the rear what kind of upgrades are we looking at on being able to beef up this case in the pump? Sure. What we can option is we do use the merchant case half in the back if somebody would want that we can upgrade to it. When we go to the aluminum case half we've never had a problem with the aluminum pump on the aluminum housing. The two metals are not going to eat themselves up but it's a cool deal to throw in there and you say you got it and it's a good piece and it's a very good design. The other thing we'll check out too is a slider clutch which is this piece which basically engages your four-wheel drive on the on the hub for the front output. We'll always check these for wear because when that snap ring groove in the back wears this thing can move in and out and it'll dance on the teeth on the front drive sprocket here and it can collide and cause wear. We'll look at that very closely also. The other thing we'll do is if we have a used chain we don't necessarily always replace the chains. We have a way of checking the slack in the chain against the new one. If it's within spec we'll run it. Those chains take an immense amount of power. Normally the only time you see chain failure is when somebody's running out of oil for a long long period of time which we can show you on a couple cases cores that came back. So that's some pretty interesting stuff and there's more that goes on to this than I originally had thought about it. When you guys are looking into transfer case rebuilds or if you guys are kind of trying to think about it doing it on your own think about everything that Mark went through today and realize that there's a lot more that goes on within this case than even I thought. Doing that whole engine build that we've done before that was nothing compared to the little intricacies and everything that's inside of these transfer cases it's kind of insane. So dealing with Mark here at Kodiak truck and driveline is going to be one of the best things that you guys can do. I will be sure to leave a link down in the description below and for the cost that these transfer cases the rebuilds and you also sell full ones already done right? Correct. We have reman units on the shelf ready to go. We can on assembly we'll talk about a little bit more about the rear case halves and the nickel coated updated yoke and all the goodies that you can do and all the things you should do. But yeah there is definitely more than just putting a case saver plate or that type of thing in the back. There's other upgrades and things you should look at really. Not if your case has got 150,000 miles on it you should knock it down and look at more than just say I'm going to put a back case half on and a plate in it or whatever method you're going to use to prevent the pump rub. Exactly once we're talking about the bullet proof nature of what these cases need to be able to handle especially when you're getting up into the six seven hundred horsepower range over a thousand foot pounds of torque. That's where you guys are going to need to pretty much bullet proof this and Mark's going to be the one to be able to do that one for you. Again I will leave the link down below to get a hold of him and the phone number for the shop here in Wisconsin. He's able to handle any needs you guys have give him a call anytime and he's able to answer any questions you might have as well. So when Mark was talking about some transfer cases that have been through the war this one right here would be the version of oh I forgot to put oil in it or we ran it for a little while low on oil. No that's not just a little while you done toasted it. So be good check your oil regularly and you know it would probably be a good idea to change it out every once in a while too. So as you guys seen on some previous videos here's our factory main shaft set up metal on metal we got an oil groove cut in it but it's still metal on metal a lot of friction. Our deal we've seen seen machine it this is plus or minus a half a tile the machining quality is fantastic. Second to none what we end up with is a machine down shaft we actually run three bearings not two this was an early design and we basically take all the friction off of it. You compare the two it's night and day I can spin this as hard as I want I spin this one as hard as I can it'll go forever. This benefits you in two-wheel drive because all your miles going down the highway you're spinning through from the input gear to the output shaft center on center takes all the friction and wear out of it. Some guys claim they pick up fuel economy I don't want to advertise fuel economy but we've done this for years and it's just a great setup with zero failure. Now that's what I'm talking about this this setup right here talking about something that's going to take you know all the questions out of the game and take all those extra you know failure points out of the transfer case are there any other normal failure points to the actual transfer cases say in my truck right here as it sits. Absolutely that rear snappering groove in the rear of the case when that fails allows the main shaft to walk forward and back and it simply will end up taking out the uh the mode fork in the back which we can actually show you an example of. Some people too made comments they were concerned that we machined this down so far that we weakened the shaft. Bottom line is if you're going to break this shaft anywhere through here truck pulling whole shot and boosted four-wheel drive launches you're going to break it at this snappering groove in the back that's exactly where all of them will break so up in the middle of this case we have plenty support between the backside of the input the bearing here there's plenty of beef in there it's not going to be a problem. All right so now when we're moving back and forth this is going to be our old transfer case shaft let's see if we can get a little bit of focus into it and the machining process is actually really really easy guys it's as easy as just snapping your fingers. Yep that simple and we go from shitty original shaft to look at that fancy stuff that's what we're talking about when we're talking about the machine surface for the new roller bearings. Okay here's our stock drive hub and here's our hub now with the engagement teeth on it already and our three bearings in it. So with this original one the bearing setup that they were using from factory how is that differing from the new style? There absolutely was no bearing it was strictly metal on metal. Metal on metal. So now here's our hub assembly it's going to go down on and there we are we lost all our friction made it more efficient. More efficient way way better guys that's the way that they're doing these transfer cases the right way. All right Mark so we're going to go through the pumps here and tell us the difference between the stock one and this is I'd say one of the merchant ones. Yep exactly this is the stock pump which we feel works we've had no problems with it in the with the aluminum rear it doesn't pump rub again we also offer this as an option we can put the merchant case up on which is a very very good piece and you know you got a total bullet proof setup. So we do offer that also as another option. Cool so we're going to go ahead and get this case together and get this thing back in the car. Look at that we'll get the brace back on it braces are excellent if you make any horsepower at all you would have a u-joint fail that brace will definitely help you from busting the backside of your elsen off we've seen a ton of failure in that area so by having the brace in there you'll take all the rotational load out between the trans and transfer case because the brace is now going to anchor it down up top they work great highly recommend it we've seen plenty just in the last probably five six years of trucks coming through the shop that didn't have that on they lost the u-joint and they go from you know a thirty five dollar u-joint a little bit of labor to the back half of a busted elsen that's coming out of a truck and that's going to be one expensive bit that is uh twelve fifteen hundred dollars to do a back housing and labor and everything else and pull the case out and get it all back together not going to lie mark this transfer case is a gorgeous piece of machinery right here what we've seen put together here that is something that is top notch best in the industry i'm going to recommend this one absolutely for anyone who's looking to get some uh drive line upgrades mark entering beast mode here what was the saying that you said i'm old not broken i'm old not dead i'm old not dead not only can you rebuild the transfer case faster than anybody in the business he's still slinging him up there too now mark one of the other questions that i know people have asked in the past and will ask continuously the transfer case is here realistically power that they're able to handle power they're able to handle is what most guys will ever be able to make because obviously if you get over 700 horse you got to build a model um on this particular deal we can easily throw a thousand horsepower at this case with no issues um if you were above a thousand horsepower it wasn't a daily driver it wasn't a street driven truck we might consider not putting the cnc main shaft in because you're not going to have the wear you're not going to put the miles on it just to totally increase the strength in it not that we again that we weakened it by doing that but going to the fact of this is more designed for daily drivers drivers at our you know a thousand horsepower or less um but uh yeah wait on if we did something that was 1500 horsepower we wouldn't put the rollerized main shaft in it because that's not going to be a daily driven truck still with this amount of horsepower and everything in the efficiency that we're able to you know now say that we're going to have to the entire driveline it's just an overall great build and something that is going to give you guys the power of the strength and the efficiency and driveline efficiency that's an awesome build all the way around so as you guys can see mark with kodiak driveline here is the best in the business that you guys can possibly get and this transfer case is going to be something awesome i'm looking forward to be able to test this thing out properly we've got the dyno day coming tomorrow with the big show we're going to be throwing this thing on there and then i've got the long drive back home this thing is going to be more efficient and it's just in all words peace of mind more than anything being able to have that heavy duty amazing piece of machinery under the truck that's going to have a good warranty and it's just not going to break on me nothing that i'm going to put to this thing is ever going to make it break so i appreciate mark being able to show us this awesome stuff that he's able to do again i will leave all the information down below in the description where you guys can get a hold of him the links to the transfer cases he's able to do anything and everything along in the driveline transfer cases for fords dodges as well big into that one is he's just a great guy to get a hold of and if you guys have any questions again he's able to answer any of those for you i appreciate you guys tuning in make sure you go check out truck masters channel as well he's got some really great information that we're going to be kind of tossing back and forth from this next two days here spent with ryan's performance diesel and kodiak trucks here in north prairie wisconsin appreciate you guys tuning in today thanks and as always you guys stay awesome