 Hello boys and girls. Welcome to part 2 of the EJ25 build for the 06 STI. If you're new here, consider subscribing, like the video if you did. Today we're doing piston rings and pistons. Let's get to it. Now it's piston time. I'm gonna reinstall the crank bolt just so I can turn the crank. Okay, crank seems to turn. I don't want to rotate it now. The rods are in there loose. I don't want to scratch the cylinder walls. Okay, let's just go with number. So the way these are numbered, this is the top of the engine, back of the engine. Cylinder 1, 2, 3, and 4. We should have eight of these. You got seven. Why do we have seven? I also had the machine shop gap the rings. They numbered each back to each cylinder. So one, four, two, and three. Here, check this out. This is the the worst piston, number four. Look how much thicker the manly is on top. See that there? It's actually a little bit shorter. The stock one is a tiny bit taller, but the skirt is shorter. But this top area of the piston is thicker. So the reason why the clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall on forged pistons needs to be bigger is because the material is more flexible and they actually grow slightly bigger when they get hot. So bigger clearances are necessary so the pistons simply don't get stuck when they're hot inside it's bore. So I put one pin, one clip in as you can see and there's an arrow pointing to the front of the engine. So looking at the engine since that's the front, okay, arrow will go this way and the pin will go in here through here. You need to install the inside clip on the piston before you put it in. Then the pin will slide in here through the rod and then you install from here through this peak hole. You're going to install the second clip. The second one here on number four the peak hole is on the back of the engine. So the clip will have to go on the inside here so in both middle. So on this piston see arrow pointing up towards the front of the engine. So clip on the inside of the piston or on the left if you look at it from here and this will go on the right side of the, so they are next to each other. Okay so let's put this box aside. I actually did weigh these pistons they weigh exactly the same. So let's do number two which is this guy here. I'm going to use compressed air make sure it's clean. Number two, number two here we go. So we got a set of rings. Let's get some light in here. Okay it looks like this is the, I'm not sure what to call it, the second ring. This one scrapes the oil down back into the crankcase. You can see by the picture here this guy here second groove nape are cut down. I don't know if you probably want to be able to see this but this will be on the bottom. This is the compression ring. Top groove bevel up. It looks like that's the inside. This is the outside that's the inside. It's hard to tell. This camera doesn't do well focusing. So it's going to go this way and then these oil rings. Okay they do have a little cut here like a little tab. Now you want to offset every ring. All right let's do it one by one. We're going to check the gap of each ring. Okay so make sure the oil ring every ring you will put back in the cylinder. It's nice and even and we're gonna now these are usually set to a bigger gap than the other rings. So I got a 17 and 16. Let's go to 17 18. Okay this actually does not fit. So we're at 17 and 16. So that's 27 33 which is fine. 33.033 is just fine. So let's remove this one. Okay I'm not even gonna bother with this. This is a much bigger gap. Let's go back to the 33. So 16 and 17 fits right in and it's tight. That's fine. Okay let's see the second ring. Nice and even. Supposed to be at 0.024. No actually 0.025. It's a little tight but it fits. Yeah and 0.024 fits very easily. Let's try 0.25 again. Yep it fits okay. So this one will do. Let's check the compression ring. This one we're supposed to be at 20.24. Okay it does fit. It is tight. Let's check 0.2 or 0.023. Easy fit. Okay you just gotta push it push it in a little bit more. So that's what you do. That's how you measure these. You just gotta push it in push the rings a little bit deeper into the bore. So I am gonna do do that to all of them. I'm not gonna bore you. All right now that I know that all the the gaps on the rings are good it's time to install them. You see the little cutoff on the piston here. This part of the ring that's where it's gotta go. We want to be super careful these can break. Okay so that I don't know if you can see this but so that tab on the ring is gonna go right into this ridge here into the piston. So facing down simply so it doesn't turn. Now there is another cutout for the top ring for the top oil ring. So the gap whatever this ring may be called we're gonna put it on the opposite side of the two. Come on. Just trying to pop it in there. Okay there we go. It took longer than I thought. Okay now another tab that's gonna go on top into here. All right much easier on this one. There we go. Make sure they're all in its place. Okay and the cut is here I'm gonna just slightly move it. Okay so see these are on the opposite of each other. So I'm simply going to put this gap right here right in between and that's fine. So one two three okay either here or here for the middle ring doesn't matter. Okay that's fine. Okay see they're not spinning stuck in one spot. Let's continue with the I guess it's the scraping ring. This ring actually as it comes back towards the crank it scrapes the oil off the cylinder wall. Okay so let's see. So that's right there. So the cut out that groove there that goes on the bottom and the way we're going to do this the second ring gap is going to go on one side of the pin and the other is going to go on the other side of the pin. You don't want to go you don't want to place the gap where the piston skirts are. I'm going to use this tool here. There we go and now the compression ring. Remember with the groove the inside groove up top. The other way to tell is if there's any marks riding on the ring it's usually it all goes on the top. Looks like we're good. Now I need to spin the crank well very little bit and bring this is the inside there. See that's the actual rod there the pin will go through there so I need to align it so it needs to go to the left a bit. Okay well it looks okay from where I'm standing. All right I'm going to oil the cylinder wall and then put assembly loop and the piston skirts and the oil rings. All right this one wants to come out. Now if Fai was was doing a stock rebuild and I would know that I'm going to start this engine like within a week or so then I wouldn't bother with the assembly loop but since it may take me a while because I got a lot more stuff to do I am going to be using assembly loop. This way I'll know that it won't round down and it'll be okay when I'm ready to start it. Okay now I'm going to make sure that those gaps are in their right spots that they didn't move that the rings didn't move looks okay. I'm going to put a bit of assembly loop inside the rod. Yes I know this is a cheap tool hopefully it'll work. It didn't go all the way. Not as tight as it goes. Okay second attempt. Okay I think I know what I gotta do. Last attempt if this is not gonna work I'm gonna buy a better tool. All right I need both hands for this. See the pin there needs to go through the rod now. Just it's through the rod now it needs to go onto the other side of the piston okay there it goes. So that's what it looks like now and now that's left is the clip and that's how it's supposed to look. Number two is installed. This is the number four next I'm gonna stand it on its side. Okay so you get the idea that's number two this is number four basically same thing just a different hole and that's it first you align the rod with this hole you drop the piston in align the piston with the rod pop the pin in and don't forget about the clip. You can adjust the rod through the bottom of the engine okay. So I'm gonna do I'm gonna finish number four one and three and I'll show you the result.