 To start off, I will trace my friend's bodice on my pattern weeper. And as you can see, I did not trace the back guard as it is not necessary for this design. Next, I used my compass to draw in the bus radius. To locate the bus radius, check out the chart I've prepared in the description box. Next, I will relocate the shoulder bus dart to the side seam an inch below from the bus line. Next, I'm going to apply the empire contour for the front bodice. By the way, if you're new to my channel, I have a separate tutorial for the empire waist contour and make it sure to check it out. Next, from the underarm side seam, I'm going to mark in 47 inch or 1.27 centimeters. From the waist at side seam, I'm going to mark in 68 of an inch or 2 centimeters to decrease the waist measurement and connect both marks with a straight line while the side seam dart is closed. And cut off this excess from the pattern. Next, from the under bust, draw a horizontal line towards the side seam like so. From center front, mark in 1.27 inch or 0.3 centimeter. From this mark, square in a line blending towards the waist. And this will be the new center front. Next, from the bust line, mark in 68 of an inch or 2 centimeters touching the new center front. And again, from the under bust, draw in your desired under bust design towards the mark at center front. Next, from new center front at bust line, mark in 47 inch or 1.27 centimeters. And from the bust line at side seam, mark in 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters. And from the previous dart at bust radius, mark up for 87 inch or 1.27 centimeters. And connect these three marks, creating a triangular shape for the neckline. Next, I'm going to draw in my neckline design freehand. When drawing the design freehand, it is best to practice it first on a different paper. And once you've achieved your desired design, apply it on the final draft. Next, I'm going to apply contour's guideline number one and number three for the neckline. After applying the contours for the neckline, I will redraw and blend in the lines. So if you're not familiar with contouring principles, I have a separate tutorial so better check it out on my channel. Now that I have completed my drafts for the front bodice, it is time to cut each pieces separately. Next, I'm going to combine the two lower panels together. After that, I'm going to mark in the important notches to guide me for sewing. Next, I'm going to grab the back bodice to draft the back pattern. I will place the front pattern number three exactly on the side seam at bust line. And mark for the back pattern reference. Next, from the side seam, I will mark in 4-4-8 inches until the bust line. And from the mark at side seam, I will square in across a horizontal line. And this is the back pattern. Next, I will divide the back pattern in three sections vertically, like so. And from these marks, I will square in the slash lines. And I will slash the lines carefully. Next, get a piece of paper and place in the back pattern. Spread the pattern equally according to your liking and tape it in place. And by the way, I've used 4-8 of an inch of sewing allowance all around for the back pattern. So these are all the pattern pieces with sewing allowances. For pattern number one, I've used 2-8 of an inch all around. And for patterns number two and number three, I've used 2-8 of an inch and 4-8 of an inch all around. For pattern number four, I've marked up 6-8 of an inch from the waist for the loop placement. So the waist of my friend is 26 inches. But for the circle skirt, I wanted it to have gathers on the waist since at the hem, I will put a second tier. So instead of calculating the circle skirt from her original waist, I will multiply her waist by 2 and that is equals to 52 inches. And I will use the doubled waist measurement to calculate her half circle skirt. So this is the half circle skirt pattern from my calculations. Next, I'm going to fold it in half and cut it on the center making two pieces. One piece for the back and one piece for the front. So at the waist, it will be gathered. It is unfold at the center back, also unfold at the center front. And there are side seams where we will connect both skirts together. For the front skirt, while putting in the sewing allowances, I've decided to put inseam pockets for utility purposes. For more about inseam pockets, I have a separate tutorial and make sure to check it out on my channel. For the back skirt, I will mark down 1 inch or 2.54 centimeters from the waist. This is for the elastic or garter casing. And duplicate the casing on a new paper plus the sewing allowance from the back skirt. First, I am going to cut the front circle skirt on my fabric unfold and unbiased. And as you can see, I've notched the placements of the inseam pockets at the side seams. Same with the front skirt, I'm going to cut the back skirt unfold and on the bias of my fabric. And cut the elastic or garter casing unfold and on the bias part of the fabric as well. And next, face the casing and the back skirt together, right side to right side and pin in place. By the way, I have sewn the casing and the back skirt together by toys of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Since both pieces are cut on bias, best use the smallest stitch line and avoid pulling the fabric as it will stretch. Next, I will use my compensating presser foot, push all of the seams towards the casing side, and topstitch the casing onto the skirt by 1 millimeter. And this is how the back skirt should look like. And this is where we are going to place the elastic or garter. Next, I'm going to topstitch the edge of the waistline by 1 millimeter. And topstitch the casing onto the skirt by 0.68 of an inch or 0.2 centimeters from the waist. And now, we've completed the casing for the back skirt. For the garter, I've used the measurement of the original back waist minus 4 or 10 centimeters. Next, using my bodkin tool, I will insert the garter inside the casing. And pin the garter from end to end. And next, I will sew or tack at each side seam so that the garter will stay in place. I've tacked the garter by 0.48 of an inch or 1.3 centimeters from the edge of the side seams. And I will topstitch the garter onto the casing by 0.48 of an inch or 1.3 centimeters from the edge of the waist. Next, I'm going to cut the pouches for the inseam pockets. I'll simply place one of the pouches at the side seam of the front skirt, matching the notches. And pin everything in place. And do it on the other side seam as well. By the way, I have a separate tutorial for inseam pockets, and I'll put the link up here in case you want to check it out. Next, I'm going to gather the front waist of the front skirt. The gathers will depend with the width of pattern number 4. Using this gathering presser foot, I will gather the front waist by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter from the edge of the waist. And this is how the waist of the front skirt looks like. Next, I'm going to cut patterns number 1, 2, 3 times 4 on my fabric. This is for the self and for the lining. And cut the same patterns times 2 for the fusible interfacing. And fuse the interfacing to the self. For pattern number 4, cut it as well times 4 on the main fabric, and times 2 for the fusible interfacing. And cut the back pattern piece times 4 for the self and lining. For patterns number 1, I'm going to attach here this trap at the angle. To place this trap, I'm going to mark in the sewing allowance that I've used for this pattern, which is 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter and I'll mark it from the armhole side. And I'll place this trap just right beside the pencil mark of the sewing allowance. And pin the straps in place. Next, I will pin the lining pieces on top, facing right side to right side with the self pieces. And pin everything in place sandwiching the straps inside. And I'll sew the top areas by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Careful not to hit the strap and move it if it's necessary and fill it while sewing. Next, I'm going to sand the seams at the lining side. And topstitch the lining by 1 millimeter and stop before reaching where the strap is placed. And do the same thing on the other side. And press the pieces for a clean finish. Next, sew the opening at the bottom by 1.8 of an inch or 0.3 centimeter to close it. Next, I'm going to place patterns number 2 to patterns number 3, facing them right side to right side together and pin everything in place. And I'm going to sew the pieces according to my sewing allowance. And press the seams open for a clean finish. And I'll also sew the lining pieces together. And these are the self and lining pieces. Next, I'm going to place the assembled piece facing right side to right side, matching the notch with the same line. And pin in place in preparation for sewing. And sew everything in place. And next, I will place the lining pieces facing right side to right side with the self sandwiching pattern number 1 inside. And pin the lining to the self. And don't forget to match the seam lines. And sew according to your sewing allowance. And give it a press for a clean finish. Next, I'm going to attach pattern number 4 to the self, matching the notches with the seam line. Face everything right side to right side and pin in place. And I'm going to sew everything according to my sewing allowance. And now, the top is semi-assembled. I also did the same sewing procedure for the lining. Next, I'm going to place the pieces right side to right side together. And attach the pieces at the center front. And this is how it looks like with both pieces attached together at the center front. First, I'm going to mark in for its 7 inch or 1.3 centimeters for my sewing allowance. And next, I'm going to mark in 5 eighths of an inch or 1.6 centimeters each side. And this will serve as a channeling or opening for the strap. And next, I'm going to sew the lining and the self pieces together by 4 eighths of an inch or 1.3 centimeters from the curved edge. And we need to press the seams open. After pressing the seams, face the pieces together wrong side to wrong side and pin in place. You can either begin or finish sewing right exactly at the marks. And avoid sewing beyond as these marks will serve as the openings for the straps. And turn the back piece inside out. And give it a press. And this is how the back piece looks like and these are the channels for the strap. Next, top stitch 5 eighths of an inch or 1.6 centimeters from the curved edge. And top stitch by 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter each side. You can either begin or finish sewing right exactly at the 5 eighths inch top stitch. But don't go beyond. Next, I'm going to place in the bias loops at the notches and place in the back pattern piece right exactly at pattern number 3. Face the back piece right side to right side with pattern number 3 and pin in place. And sew the back pieces and loops in place. Next, face the lining right side to right side with the self, sandwiching the back pieces and the loops. Match the under bust seams, pin in place, and sew the seams according to your sewing allowance. Turn it inside out and insert the straps into the channels. Next, let's attach the front circle skirt and the top together. But before that, on both side seams of the front skirt, mark in the sewing allowance. And place the top right exactly at the marks on each side seam and pin in place. And sew at the waist according to your sewing allowance. Next, I chose the right side seam where I will sew in the zipper. And sew in the zipper by 4 eighths of an inch or 1.3 centimeters. Also, carefully sew the zipper and always try to open the pocket so that it won't be sewn in with the zipper. Next, sew the other side of the zipper at the back circle skirt. And lastly, I'll sew in the second tier at the hem of the circle skirt. By the way, I also have a tutorial for half-circled tiered skirt and better check it out on my channel. Et voila! So this is my friend rocking her honeymoon dress and I am so happy she loved it and she worried in one of their date nights during their honeymoon. Anyway guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to create your own honeymoon dress. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you're not subscribed yet to my channel Lama Deliz, make sure to hit that subscribe button and if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial.