 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is Lama Delist and today we are all about pattern drafting for the menswear bodice block and sleeve blocks so get your materials ready and let's dive in. These are the required measurements for the basic menswear. I've prepared a chart and calculation sheet sheets on canvas and please do check it out at the description box. Chest circumference. Place a tape around the widest part of the chest. Natural waist circumference. Place a tape around the smallest part of the torso between the chest and the hip. Hip circumference. Place a tape around the widest part of the buttocks and keep it parallel to the floor. waist to hip. Place the tape vertically from the waist until the hip level. Front waist length. Place a tape at the base of the front neck then measure down to the waist level. Back waist length. Place a tape at the nape, base of the back neck then measure down to the natural waist level. Neck base circumference. Place a tape around the neck and insert the finger for ease. Across back weave. Measure from point to point where the crease is formed by the armpit. Across front weave. Measure from point to point where the crease is formed by the armpit. Shoulder length. Place a tape from the high point of the shoulder until the shoulder tip. Sleeve length. Measure from the shoulder tip towards and over the elbow and towards the wrist with the arm hanging naturally but slightly bent. Wrist and hands circumference. Measure around the wrist joints where the bone protrudes. Measure around the widest part of the hand. Arm hull side death. This measurement is taken from where the bicep is touching the underarm side seam. To do this, ask your model to place three fingers at the armpit and from the bottom finger trace a horizontal mark towards the center back. And these are the measurements needed to draft the menswear block or sloper. Four menswear chart and calculations. Again, please check the description box for the canva link. Cut a large piece of paper longer than the length of the torso. At the left hand side of your paper, square down a vertical line. And square in a horizontal top line. Label the perpendicular lines zero. From zero, mark down 6 8 7 inch line and this is the center back neck point. And label this line one. And extend this line. From one, mark down 8 5 8 inches. This is the arm hull side death measurement. And by the way, use your own measurements for this. And square a line. Label this line two. From one, measure down the back waist length measurement. And square a line. And label this line three. From number three, mark down the waist to hip measurement. And square a line. And label this line four. Number two is the chest level. Number three is the waist level. And number four is the hip level or lines. And this vertical line represents center back and center front. From number two or chest line, mark out one quarter of the chest plus one quarter of the garment ease. Please refer to your chart. And label this mark number five. Mark out the same measurement from zero. And label this mark six. Mark out the same measurement from number three. And label this mark seven. And mark out the same measurement from number four. And label this mark eight. And square a line connecting eight, seven, five, and six. This line represents the side seam for both back and front. From zero and one, mark out one fifth of the neck circumference plus two eighths of an inch. And square a line connecting both marks. Label nine and ten respectively as shown. From number ten, draw a boat shape line towards number one. Next, get the halfway measurement between number one and two. And mark up the halfway measurement from the chest line or number two. And square a line. And label this line number 11. This is the across back wave level. From 11, mark out the half measurement of a cross back weave. Please refer to your chart. From number one, mark down the shoulder slope measurement. And square a line. Label this line number 13. From 13 to two, mark out the same measurement from 11 to 12, half of a cross back weave. And label the marks respectively as shown. And square a line connecting 14, 12, and 15. At the line 13, mark out six eighths of an inch from mark 14. And label this mark 16. And square a diagonal line from 10 to 16. And check if the shoulder length is correct in measurement. From 15, square a line at the 45 degree angle. And from this line, measure out 1 to 8 inches. Next, connect 16, 12, 15, and 5 with a curved ruler. This is for the armhole. From number one, mark down the center front neck point. And label this mark 17. And connect 17 to 10 using a curved ruler. And we are done with the basic men's wear. So this is the basic men's wear block. Next, transfer the back and front bodices on two different papers. This is the front bodice. And as you can see, the front neck is deeper. Next, join both back and front bodices at the side seam. And at the chest line from the across back line, mark out 4, 3 eighths inches for the back notch. And mark up 2 eighths of an inch to double the notch reference. And from the front chest at the cross front, mark up 3, 1 eighths inches for the front notch. This is the back notch. And this is the front notch. To draft the sleeve, get the measurement of the armhole from shoulder tip to shoulder tip and record. Cut a large paper. And square a vertical line on the left hand side of your paper. And square a horizontal top line. From the vertical line, mark out the bicep measurement. And square a line. From the top line or cap line, mark down the sleeve length measurement. And square a line. Next, mark the half of the bicep measurement. And mark. And square a line. And mark in the one quarter of the bicep and square in lines. Label the back line, center line, and front line as shown. From the top or cap line, mark down the sleeve cap depth. And square a line. This is the bicep line. From the back line at bicep, mark out 1 sixth of the armhole measurement plus 5 eighths of an inch. And don't forget to draw a notch. From front line at bicep, mark up 1 sixth of armhole measurement, and don't forget to draw a notch. From the underarm at bicep square, are they are going to line towards the back notch. And get the half of the measurement of this line. And mark it in. From this half mark, mark down to eighths of an inch. And draw a curve line from bicep line until the back notch passing through the halfway mark, as shown. Next, from back notch, square in a diagonal line towards the center line. And get the half measurement of this line. And mark it in. From the halfway mark, square up a small line. And from this line, mark out 5 eighths of an inch. Next, draw a curved line from the back notch passing through the halfway mark towards the center line. Next, from the bicep line, square in a diagonal line towards the front notch. And get the halfway measurement of this line, and mark. From the halfway mark, mark down 3 eighths of an inch. And draw a curved line from the bicep line towards the front notch passing through the halfway mark, as shown. Lastly, square in a diagonal line from the front notch towards the center line. Get the halfway measurement of this line, and mark. From the halfway mark, mark up 6 eighths of an inch. And draw a curved line from center line passing through the halfway mark towards the front notch. And this is the sleeve cap for the sleeve. Next, get the halfway measurement from bicep line to the wrist or hem line. And mark down the elbow calculation from bicep line. And square a line. This is the elbow line. Next, from side seam at wrist line, mark in 1 inch. From this mark, square in a slant line towards the bicep line at underarm side seam. And do the same procedure for the other side. So, we are done with the sleeve. And this is the sleeve cap, bicep line, back line, center line, front line, underarm side seams, elbow line, and wrist or hem line. And this is the menswear sleeve. Anyway, guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to pattern draft the basic bodice and basic sleeve for menswear. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below. And I will reply as soon as possible. And if you are not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel Lamao the Least, make it sure to hit that subscribe button. And if you liked this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Abiento.