 I'm a designer here at Adafruit and joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning everybody I'm Pedro. I create tech here at Adafruit and every week we're here to share a 3D printed projects featuring all these electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is where we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to inspire you. Hello everybody. Welcome to the show. Thanks for joining us. We're going to give some shout outs to everybody hanging out in the live broadcast chat room and our Discord server. We are at discord.gg slash Adafruit. Come on, join up. Oh man so many people, it is a 30,000, 20,000. Come on in the live broadcasting chat to get all the awesome banter links and gifs. Get through the show. Gifs and gifs. Gifs as well. Good morning everybody. Everybody hanging out to Wester, Paul Cutler, Ross and then Sandy Calloway over on the YouTube we have this all, Sonny from India. Good morning. Good morning. We're on Facebook as well. I'm trying to load that up on Twitch. Good morning. Good morning. Good evening. Good afternoon. Good night to everybody hanging around all over the world. Yay. Got some awesome projects. Go ahead and jump in to some... Housekeeping. Housekeeping. Let's get down to it. Pay some bills here with checking out the freebie deals at Adafruit.com slash Fari. Check out all the deals that are going on. For orders for $99 or more, you're going to get a free half size permaproto PCB. For orders that are $149 or more, you'll get the half size permaproto plus a KB2040 as the Adafruit board that can run Circa Python and Arduino. It's really awesome for keyboards or keyboards. If you spend $200 or more, you'll get the free KB2040, the half size permaproto, and plus free ground shipping for content of the U.S. only. Check out Adafruit.com slash Fari for all the deals. These get automatically added to your cart, so you don't have to do any special discount codes. But you could always get a special discount codes on Wednesdays for Ask an Engineer. Today. Or tonight. Tonight when Ask an Engineer comes on. Cool. Cool. Next up, we're going to look at how to want it by going over to jobs.adafruit.com. Check out all the latest job listings. There are some new ones that were posted up, so check this out. It's free to do a kind of resume. You can post up your skills. And if you're looking for folks, you can post up your job offers. So yeah, it's a free site to do that. Make sure that nobody spams it, and all of them are, all the listings and profiles are vetted by the team. So check this out. Okay. For checking out a weekly newsletter, you can go to adafruit.com slash newsletter. You can subscribe to that to get the latest info on the latest products that are added to the shop on the weekly, and this happens once a week. And then daily, adafruitdaily.com, you can subscribe to various categories of maker goodness, such as the Python on microcontroller newsletter. Shout out to everybody for subscribing to that one. This is a good opportunity for folks in the community that are working on Python projects that can submit their stories to Amber Ella or anyone else on the team. And shout out to everybody sharing their stuff. So you can go to adafruitdaily.com and subscribe to all of those newsletters. Cool. Huge shout out to Paul Cutler doing the Circuit Python Show podcast this week. We've got a new episode, so check that one out on the latest Circuit Python happenings. And back over to the Discord chat. We went through it pretty quickly, so yay. Yeah, we can get right to it if we'd like. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week's pretty sweet project, very adorable. It is a set of these little GIF players. GIF players. GIF players. GIF, GIF. They play them. So GIF, or GIF, graphics interface format, it's got its own history. It's an awesome image format that lets you have frames and it plays as an animation, hence the name. So these are themed as adorable little TVs with a VCR, so a nice little retro throwback. Or, I don't know, is this retro yet? Yeah, it is to me. Games are still coming out, so I don't think it's that retro. So these are new displays that Elimar has added. They are high quality IPS displays. Two different sizes. They have different screen resolutions. One of them has rounded edges, rounded corners. The other ones is kind of like this 13 by 9 style aspect ratio. So they are different. Each one has a slightly different resolution. One's 320 by 170, and the other one's 320 by 172. You get the details on each of the product pages. One is a 1.9 inch. The other one is a 1.43 inch, but they're both using the same display driver, the ST889. I don't remember the last one. But they're all spy displays, so you can get really, really quick speediness. So yeah, they're using the spy protocol. They're all TFT displays. They have pretty good viewing angle because they're IPS displays. They've got nice quality viewing angles. And they're both being powered by the Feather RP2040. This project uses both Arduino and CircuitPython together to make this GIF player work. We're using the USB mass storage capabilities from CircuitPython to host and store the GIF file images. And then Arduino is doing the speedy C code that's necessary for decoding the GIF frames. I think you covered all the points, yeah. I think so, yeah. We'll jump into more details and stuff like that. Some things to look out for, and we'll look at some slice settings and talk a little bit about the design and what design considerations you might need to make when designing these themed enclosures for displays and Feather dev boards. Apologies for faking the plain doom on here. Does it play Doom? You can play Doom GIFs. Not only Doom GIFs, but Breath of the Wild GIFs. So you can kind of pretend like you're playing. It could make an excellent little jewelry, like a pendant. So this is what we have, the split ring thing here. Yeah, loop. So you can put that on the necklace. Lamar saw this as a steam deck ornament for a tree. So I want to make sure that you can adjust this to whatever hand held you like. Yeah, so you can have this swap around. This is multi, it's just glued together. So you can add some nice little detail and colors. And same thing with the little TV stand too. You can also do the face swap on this one as well if you don't want a TV or if you want a different style of television. You can get that tone color. You can print them from the TV frame in one color and then you get that black border for the enclosure. So the back too, all snapped together. So you can update this to fit whatever other design you want. We have the slides that switch in here to turn the circuit on and off. Also recharges the battery so you have access to the USB-C port on the back. And everything just press fits in place. So the screws are holding the screen and the board together with a nice little frame that's in the center. I'll show that in the learn guide. And we have the 420mAh battery inside so it lasts a little bit. But it can also be recharged. Same thing with this guy. I'll press fit with the lid. I think it fits inside all nice and snug like. And yeah, let's go ahead and jump into the guide. All the files, the code and instructions are all there. Oh, forgot to mention the little TV. Or I'm sorry, the VCR. Nice little accessory to go onto your retro TV. The antenna are just a 1.75mm filament. So you can use your spare filament. Chop those up, put them in there and then model to whatever antenna yours you used to have. Very nice. I wish it had some more function, but it's just a nice little thing. Maybe that could have been the one I'll switch. It would require more design work. Let's go ahead and jump into the guide. All right, so heading over to the aid of the learn system. Let's see William's guides. Let's adjust the window. All right, so we named the learn guide mini gift players. Since you have two options, you have two different displays. So the 1.47 inch and the 1.9 inch. Everything is in stock. Everything is in stock, yeah, the RP2040. Originally we're using the M4, but we switched to the RP2040. Pearlmar's decision, because the RP2040s are surviving the chips shortage. You can actually get them. They are the only folks that are able to kind of make these chips and get them out to the folks. So think about the RP2040 as a kind of a first go to this. Use this for all projects going forward. So it works well and it's cool that we can do both circuit python and Arduino. You also have a choice of the 420 milliamp battery. That's a good one there with a short cable. And you can choose your kind of thing. So the Nintendo Switch uses the 1.9 inch display. And the TV uses the 1.4 inch display as it's just a little bit more rectangular, I guess. They're both color. We do colors as you saw. But yeah, mainly the display, the feather, and the switch and the battery is really all you need for this. So I just said they're all in stock, so it's really nice to see. A couple of screws there too. You can always get those from McMasterCar or whoever you like to get your hardware screws from. But yeah, you need some 2.5 M25 screws. Cool. Getting on over to the circuit diagram. You can see here how we're wiring up the SPI displays. They're both pretty much the same pinouts. We're using the same pins. So you can use this as a reference when you're wiring it up. Which is definitely good to need. There's so many. We have a good chunk of wires, you know. What can we say about it? The wiring diagrams? If you'd like to make your own wiring diagrams, we have a link here to the Fritzing software. You can either compile it yourself or spend a little bit of money if you want to get it installed. But we have tons of etherfruit parts as a part of the parts library. So you can make these click and drag wiring connections. It's a really easy way to kind of create these wiring diagrams. Yeah, there's lots of built-in parts as well into the Fritzing software. Yeah, it's always a good visual reference to have the pinouts wired up like this. Alright, so the first thing you want to do with your Feather RP-20 is install CircuitPython. We have a dedicated page on installing CircuitPython. You'll want to click on this green button. You'll go to the CircuitPython site. And there you can download the latest build. It's a UF2 file. There is a little reset and boot select buttons that you'll have to press in order to get into the bootloader mode. Once in the bootloader mode, it shows up like a USB flash drive on your computer. And then you can just drag and drop the UF2. The bootloader rather has special firmware that knows what to do when you drag and drop the UF2 file. It'll just automatically start flashing that CircuitPython firmware. So this just walks you through that and a couple screenshots to help you visually. Some things to know here in safe mode. That's if you're really, really deep in the trenches. You won't really have to worry about that as long as you just kind of follow the standard install song and dance. Cool. Alright, next up you'll want to get your Arduino setup. We have a link here on setting up your Feather RP2040 with Arduino. There's a dedicated page. We're using the Phil Hauer core for Arduino. So you want to install the board profile for those. It is all documented here. You want to take a moment to get this all set up. If you haven't done any Arduino on your Feather RP2040, this whole page will just walk you through all the things you need to do. Take your board's manager, have it in the Raspberry Pi Pico RP2040 stuff. Yeah, so these screenshots were very, very helpful. They helped me out when I was doing all this. So I just wanted to through it. And once you install that, Phil Hauer Arduino core, you'll be able to select the different Feather RP2040 from the list of boards. There's a bunch of other ones too, like QT-Pies, some of the Stamina boards, itsy-bitsies there as well. It's the Raspberry Pi Pico, the regular Raspberry Pi Pico. And now some little notes here. So that is how I'm going to install it. All right, following through that, once you have that all set up, we have a download here. If you have GIFs, you can download them separately if you'd like. Or you could just use the Project Bundle. I just tested this out. If you click on the Project Bundle download button, it'll download the GIFs and the Arduino INO. With Serger Python projects, it will download the libraries. But because this is Arduino, it's a little bit different. So you're going to want to install the various libraries when you try to compile this to the board. So the first one is the animated GIF, SDFAT. Basically all of these includes here in the headers are the libraries that you need to install. Yeah, so you'll just kind of walk through those. So this is all the code. This is by Lamar. So Lamar puts this together. And then we had a lot of help from Liz as well. So shout out to Liz for helping us out with this one too, getting the board configured the right way for us. And then some things you want to take a look at for sure is the pins for the TFT display. You want to reference these with the pins that you wired up. There's a super important note here that the pins in Arduino are not the same pins in Serger Python. There's a nice page here. If you go into the Introducing Adafruit Feather RP2040 Learn Guide, the official Learn Guide for the Feather RP2040, there's a page that's dedicated for Arduino usage. Namely so, Arduino usage. This has a nice paragraph of information on the RP2040 Arduino pins. There is no pin remapping for Arduino on the RP2040. The pin names on the top of the board are not the pin names used in Arduino. So there's a nice thing here that gives you an example. So if you're using D5, it's actually really GPIO7. And that's just because the original RP2040 was meant to work with their own SDK. So we had different pinouts. And then for Arduino, we had to kind of name them differently. So with that said, you'll want to go to the pinouts and just reference this right here. So we have a nice pinouts diagram. So for our display, we're wiring up to three different digital pins. So we have D9, D6, and D5. And if you look on over here right next to those, you'll see that there are different labels for it. So for D5, it's actually pin 7 in Arduino. And for D6, it's actually pin 8. For D9, it's actually D9. So some of the pins do have the same number and same name. That's cool, but D6 and D5 do not. So you just have to be really aware that when you're soldering a wire to the number 5 pin, it's actually really sad then inside Arduino. It's a very specific Arduino. So you see where's this port here? This is kind of like a label. Just imagine port being Arduino. That's port Arduino. So the yellow Arduino and the gray one is circuit python. It even says circuit python up there, circuit python there. Yeah. So the reason why we didn't call it Arduino port is because the Pico SDK. Thank you Pico SDK. So with that out of the way, that took us a little bit of time to figure out. So you want to update these pins accordingly. Cool, cool. Another thing you want to change, depending on your setup, you're going to want to change the display width and display height. Just follow whatever display you have, whether it's the 1.9 inch. It'll tell you in the learn guide which display you want to do. So you want to make sure you update that. And then one last thing you can change. If you want to add your GIFs in a folder, you can change the GIF name here variable at the top of the code. And then there's also an option to change the loop number, meaning how many times you want each GIF to loop. We have it set to five. So it's cycling five times each GIF. So you can change that. And you can add it to a different folder. Right now it's just defaulted to the root folder of the circuit python drive. And then in the nutshell, it's all the code stuff. You just really want to be aware of Arduino pin names versus circuit python pin names. It'll be good. But that's really all you really need to change. Pins and your display with height. The other thing I want to mention too is I probably should add a big old warning sign right at the top that says if you're using the Mac, use like whatever terminal command to erase any of the invisible files that Mac OS system likes to create on there. Because the minute that Arduino sees that, it will crash and won't run any of the GIFs that ran into that too. So because of that, I suggest just using a balloon windows PC for this entire project. Unless you know how to go into the command line and disable any of those invisible files being created. Because as soon as that Arduino sees that, it will immediately crash and not go any further. So that is one of the other things to look out for. Yeah, that is true. So yes, Mac folks, you've got a little extra step to work through when you're doing Arduino stuff. So good note there though. Okay, cool. But that's pretty much in a nutshell the code. So shout out to Liz and Lamar for helping us out with this one. Yeah, Lamar actually had to rewrite the entire GIF decoder. Yeah, there's a library from BitBank software that did the anime GIF library. So Lamar actually did a PR and they merged it in. So shout out to them for pulling it in and making a part of the official library. Sweet. Alright, let's go ahead and jump into some 3D printing. Pretty standard settings here. Nothing really to write home about. PLA, typical settings. The only supports you'll need are on the frames that hold together the display and the feather. Okay. So I have all that listed there. Just have the interface turned on so the bottoms come out as clean as possible. I just want to use a brand that looks like... You want to use a brim because of the small little parts there. The stand-offs for the screen. I want to make sure that all of those are connected. Other than that, it should print pretty good without supports for the rest. Cool. Yeah, the built-in slides which has some drafted angles. So it prints without any supports or anything. Exactly, yeah, yeah. Very cool. It's draft. It's actually a filet. Alright, filets. Drafts. Yeah, it's filets all over to increase the strength. Wonderful. Alright, let's go ahead and jump into the assembly. These are going to be pretty much similar. So I'm just showing the TV. I'm going to hope... I'm guessing that the TV will be the most popular build here. Cool. So after you get all of your wiring figured out, we're using the silicone ribbon cables here to make everything a little bit more simplified. Very short distance here. You did a really good job on managing your wires so they're very, very short. But also, you know... Is that make sense? Yeah, it's definitely going to be one of those tedious, you know, following stuff back to where it goes to make sure that you are indeed soldering with the correct pins. And on the back here, I should have had another board. You can see here that they are labeled with the Arduino pins on the back. So you can follow that a little bit more easier than the front. And yeah, here's the... Yeah, there it is. Seven, nine, seven, eight, nine. There you go. These are the digital pins. Mm-hmm. Wonderful. The only caveat here is, you're going to have to share the ground pins so just be cautious of that. On the other side, that's where these slides switch a plug into. Right. Okay. So with the back on... Continuing, I'm showing here how to align the frame. We have a little cutout here so it can slip through the wires and then you click on that image there and large of that you can see how it actually fits between the two boards to make that little sandwich. Ah, yeah. Now you can see the underside belly of the... the ugly side as we would say it for the support material. Exactly. Yeah, that's where you're going to need your interface. If you don't have the interface, all those will like sort of fall through and not look as pretty. Yeah. That's not that hard. So definitely... Yeah, that's one thing I keep forgetting. Look at my hands. This is... This is a... You get to have like... I don't know, you need like a microscope and the whole everything. They got your... It's like nanoblocks. Exactly. You're definitely going to need some... Miniature all the way through. Miniature all the way through. It's truly a miniature. Excellent. You can always right click on an image and make it bigger on the one side. Click on it. Yeah, so we're using the M2.5. I don't know why I put 2.4 there. 2.5 by 6mm long screws to attach the board and the display to the frame. You don't need to use all four standoffs. I usually just use one on each corner. Yeah, that's what skateboarders do with their skate trucks. They only use two screws. Yeah, it definitely helps out. I'm like, hey man, these screws are expansive. Yeah. Very cool. All right. We are using metal ones here. So just be cautious of it. Say if you're... And you can see why I used it in this orientation. If I did it closer to where the reset button is, you might short something out. So always be cautious of that anytime you're using the metal screws. Definitely helpful here since they do bite into the frame and create the threading that you're going to need. Yeah, they're strong. They're good. That's what that looks like there. Same thing there. They just did each corner. So you're screwing in from both sides. You're going to need this otherwise. The ribbon cable is going to sort of flop inside of the case. You're not going to have such a sturdy inside to it. Are these chamfer screw heads? They're flat heads. Yeah, they're flat heads. So that means that you have that... You have a little bit of a chamfer. So it's not all the way down to the board. I'm actually making any contact. You actually get some clearance in between those surfaces. So it won't bridge anything. So that's nice. Cool. Let's see. Move on to the slide switch. You want to make sure that you attach your slide switch at this point. So you started here from the top of the board? Suttered at the top. Because of the way that the positioning... the way it's oriented inside the case. This will be right at the top by where the wall cutouts for the slide switch will go. Ground enable. Very nice. Go ahead and plug in your LiPo battery. And then you're going to angle it into the case. We can enlarge that photo there. You see that the wiring for the cable will go inside first. And then with the JST port facing the case, you're going to plop it in at an angle. And that should slide right in with the angle of the fillet that should help guide it. So it positions flat after you put it in position. It only goes in one way? Is that right? It only goes in that way. Okay. So it'll just go in that right way. You can also use the USB port. That's a nice little locator. Yeah. That USB port needs to be facing the USB port hole. So that'll make sure you get it right. Okay, cool. The orientations of the boards probably matter too when you're wiring them. Absolutely. It's pretty much the same process for both displays. Exactly the same. It's only the size difference. Even the way that you angle it into the case, it's exactly the same. Like upright with the pins going down is the same orientation for both screens. So that's really nice. You don't have to kind of change the rotation of the screen. Okay, cool. Once the board is inside, you can press fit the slide switch and that again, enlarge that. Same thing. You got to insert it at an angle with the position of the slide, the switch, the actuator. You want to make sure that it's in the center. So it'll pop right in. Otherwise, you might get the edge of the cutout and it won't pop in as easy. So just make sure you set that and be careful because your circuit will turn on at this point. That's right. And then it should press fit in. The two little metal edges at the side should slide into these little two cutouts that are on the opposite side of that wall there for the slide switch. Cool. Here's what it looks like when it's fully seated. The slide switch is fully seated. It'll be nice and parallel with those walls. Yep. You want to arrange your battery. So it is, you know, not all up against the walls, but sort of centered as much as you can away from that JST port. And then you can align the lid that goes right on top. Yep. Like you have there. So we can do this in one way. Yep. You can also look at the little cutout that we have on the lid there. That cutout is for the slide switch wall so that you can press fit in there. Yep. Strategic cutaways. And that's pretty much it. Just press fits right in the place. The only difference with the slot, the Nintendo switch one is just gluing the little additional pieces on there. The little face plates. They're the Joy-Cons. Very small. One drop of a dab of glue will go a long way. It's a little bit. And one thing I'm not showing there is an activator as well. I did spray some activator on the blank face plate as well. We're all the activators now. And the reason, yeah, the reason we did that is you show the other one. Yeah. You can see that the printing on this, it's not super flat. You see how it's kind of raised. It's not super flat just because of the leveling of the bed. Right. You do want to make sure it's nice and level. Right. Could I just use decal? Do you want to do that? You can export a SUG. There you go. That would actually be a lot more easier. Well, when you transfer vinyl, you've got to use transfer tape. You've got to align it right. And like the texture of this, it might not adhere as well. So, there you go. So there's papillots. You can paint it as well. You can actually use this as a stencil too, like spray-painted or something. But we went this route. Yeah, this is a good route. I like the rays that just gives you depth and texture. All good things. You see the t-dutena? The t-dutena, like I said before, it's just two pieces of the 1.75 millimeter filament that create the antenna. Cool. All feathers have built-in LiPo battery recharging over USB. So you just charge it over USB. It has smart charging, so you can just plug it in and it automatically... It'll automatically start recharging the battery. And it'll stop when it's full. Yeah. Let's see. Cool. And that's a quick little poll on this poll. Eric on YouTube is asking, I get it used as a battery, but it also charges and maintains it. Yes, there's a charging circuit on the Feather RB2040 plug ascent. Yeah, there's some polarity protection as well. So you won't blow up the battery and things like that. It's very nice. Quick just to show what that looks like. You can see a little indicator turns orange. You plug it in. LiRAM. Any charging point? Well, half an amp, you know, pop will charge you fine. Yeah. I think the charging rate is also half an amp. 0.25 amps, something like that. So yeah, it's kind of a slow charge, but it's good for the bigger batteries, I think, right? A slower charge is better for battery life. Yeah. Yeah. So, you know, we haven't quite reached any limits really with the gifts. Like, I don't know what a file limit would be, how much storage you get on there. I don't remember. However big the spy flashes on the RQ2040, let's take a look here. Is it two mags or is it four? I forget. Eight megabytes of spy flash. There you go. So you've got some room for some gifs in there. And a lot of these, you do have to have them sized to the correct screen size. That's how we included a few, so folks can right away play with them. I forgot. Yeah, yeah, yeah. They're there once you hit the download project bundle or download them individually. Yeah, we're going to be using these going forward. Yeah, so there's more gift players and stuff. Yeah, so there's eight gifs that are included. We have the Breath of the Wild one. We have the Circa Playground Express board that spins around the LED matrix, LED glasses. It spins around. We've got some Arduino animation, title animation logos, some Circa Python animation. This little guardian robot. I can't remember the other ones. Oh yeah, very own John Park there playing, what's his name? The character dude who plays Doom? Doom guy. Doom guy. We need some PCBs. Yeah, there's the CPX, the Matrix LED glasses. Oh yeah, the BrainCraft. Oh yeah, the BrainCraft. So all of these are just, you can edit these in Photoshop or GIMP and adjust. Should make a 3D Hangouts GIF of us like, kind of shuffling around. It's like we're watching ourselves. Watch 3D Hangouts in tiny little TV. Yeah, so very, very cool. Great work on the enclosure. It's a fun theme to work with. Yeah, perfect for little miniatures or any other displays. Or ornaments. Diarramas or anything like that, ornaments. That needs some little life. Like some Lego builds. Yeah, Lego builds. Which I think we're going to use it as the segue into what are we prototyping. Yeah, all right. Again, if you guys want to download all these, all the Fusion 360 files or the STLs, if you want to just go ahead and print those out, ready to go. The GIFs are in the zip file inside of the code page. Yeah. You can grab all those there. And yeah, nice little awesome little way to make a miniature project. Yeah. Cool, cool. All right, cool. Let's go ahead and jump into what are we prototyping? We're saying before, segue with Lego. Yeah, more Lego. Lego, Lego, Lego. Okay. And welcome to what are you prototyping? All right, this week, I wanted to prototype some CNC milled Lego bricks. Why? I have a ton of scrap wood cutoff pieces. I was like, I don't want to throw all this stuff away. There's only something I could CNC that's like kind of small and like, I can make a bunch of them and like, it'd be cool if they could like build something too. So Lego bricks, CNC milled Lego bricks out of wood is what the idea came out to. And I did some research and I modeled up my stuff. I did some toolpaths. I did some tests. And the cool thing about this one is that I'm actually using Lego base plate as a jig to machine the top side, because these are CNC milled parts that need to be machined on the top and the bottom. So we got our tops figured out, right? We got those figured out. We love our studs. We know exactly what the spacing is. We know what the diameters are. We know what the heights are. So we got that. But then getting the bottom side was a little bit of a challenge because like, well how am I going to fit this and stick it onto the bed of the CNC machine where it won't fall off and I'm not using so much tape. So I ended up figuring out like, I can use a base plate to actually fit this and then mill the top side. So the idea is that we actually mill the bottom sides first, right? Because we have a nice flat surface when we start. We mill this out and then we flip it over and then we use a legit Lego base plate as a way to snap it in and it stays snapped in and it's able to mill the top side there. And I have precise placement because the Lego always has precise distances and spacing between the studs. So this right here is some Purple Heart wood and we also did Cherry and then we also did Maple Cherry and Purple Heart. So what's cool about the first batch I did, they are sort of arbitrary brick heights. These are not compatible with legit Lego. So I reworked the design and made them the exact height and width so that I can use legit Lego in between these. So you can mix and match plastic and wood and make little things. And they still come apart just nice and you can stack them of course and they have some pretty decent tolerances. I'm finding that the Purple Heart has a little bit more, it's a little bit more tougher to kind of snap and I find the cherry and the maple work really well. So I am working on making some more and then I'm also going to do some custom shapes because the whole point is that you have the complete free reign of making whatever shape you want. Maybe some unconventional shapes and maybe even some rare bricks that you can't get anymore like $80 bricks that are like they don't make them anymore and that's why they're $80. It would be kind of funny to kind of melt them. Now I don't have a base plate here like a legit Lego base plate. I have them in the other room but it'd be nice to kind of show how they fit on the plate. I have a 3D printed plate so I guess I could just add them here. But the idea is that you would snap this into your base plate and then this you just put some double sided stick tape here and then now you have a jig here for milling the top here. Obviously this is already milled but you can imagine that this was just flat, nothing there yet. Yeah, so working that out. You get really really nice textures because they're all wood, right? Yeah, it's been really fun. You only need two tools to mill this. Both are flat in mills. One is a 1 eighth inch. That's to do the contours and the surfacing to get your thickness correct. And then to do the studs and the tubes, I'm using a 1 sixteenth inch and that's able to go in between these studs or these tubes rather here. And it works out really well. Yeah, so I'll be doing a learn guide in the video. I'll release some files as well for both G-code and the actual fusion files so folks can mill their own if they have some scrap wood. That's the whole idea. It's like what can I do with all the scrap wood and making Lego bricks is a really cool one. So there you go. What's cool is that from that scrap wood that you could not make anything out of, now you can. Yeah, that's the whole point is to use this stuff. There are some wooden building blocks you can get on Amazon, but I found that they are actually not compatible with Lego. They also suffer from the different thickness. So here you can see they just work well, but let's try to get one of these in. It won't work as well because they're just not the right thickness. So this is the point of the show. We're just playing Lego for the next 15 minutes. From the chat. Anna Calaway says wooden Lego equals lingo. Yeah. Like that. Like no. See how that right there would make it not, you know, if you're trying to do something like that. Yeah, you have that little gap there. So that's why I was like okay, forget this. I'm going to separate these from like the legit batch. I think cherry is a really nice one that tends to be less messy and more like dense, like the fibers of the materials. It seems like it's more dense. But yeah, I got to try some different shapes, man. Just doing the two by four though is a good basic brick that can kind of build your, you know, your average kind of pencil holder or whatever wall tower thing. What I like is. Yeah. What is this called when we use different? What is that if there's a name for that? Like woodworking where you use like different types of the. Yes. Like types. It's the cool mosaic pattern, I guess. There you go. You can build one of those really mosaic patterns. Yeah. A lot of fun there. I'm actually filming too. So getting all that stuff. So cool. Very, very fun. Yeah. Lego. We're going to call them wooden building bricks. Yeah. Cool. And of course we have our little mascot here, which jumps us into a shop. So our little Eat-A-Bot is crossing the year five. It's five years old now. And some of the time says they're starting to wear out like his hand won't stay up sometimes. And the antenna sometimes break off. So Pedro went ahead and started printing out some new, some new Eat-A-Bot parts. I just wanted to show what it looks like when you're printing it out. Here's what a little set of his arms, legs, and torso look like. Focus for some reason. There we go. That's what it looks like when it prints out. I just print all of these as a batch. That's his little feet, hands, and then his head over here. So we are doing the dual extrusion to get all the colors in there. And it can be painted, but a little bit more easier to have the little eyeballs and all that in there where it's a part of the print. And I should have grabbed a tool to remove his support materials. I already broke my nails. So it's freezers. Oh, there we go. That comes off nice and clean. The eyeballs, of course, are on the inside of Learn. So you can grab those and print your own Eat-A-Bots. But I think we're going to make a couple of sets of these and use these as little giveaways. Yeah, if you need us. So he probably wants a nice little Eat-A-Bot. You ever see us out and about maybe at a Lego store? Yeah. We'll give you one. So yeah, that's what they look like when they are printed out. So we'll have a bunch of these to replace our... Because they do lose tolerance after a while, especially when you're testing out new Lego parts that you're printing. Exactly, yeah. You tend to loosen the tolerance on them. I would love to see somebody print these in resin. Anybody out there with a resin printer? Yeah. That would look nice. We have subtracted ourselves from resin. If you just type in minifig in the Eat-A-Bot Learn site search bar, the first one up is the webcam cover. And Eat-A-Bot minifig, so that's where you can get files for the Eat-A-Bot minifig. We have a MS-2, one that is a dual extrusion and one that is in different pieces you can print out. You can make any modifications to using the file. I think the only important setting for this one is to make sure that it is printing at 100 microns. So it is nice and detailed. You have all that smooth tolerance. 100 microns. 100 microns. 0.1 layer height, not 0.2, 0.1. I mean, it will work, but you look at the face, for example, this one was printed at 0.2. Oh, wow. It's too loose. Doesn't it go here? The tube for the claw? Yeah. I guess you mirror this arm bit? Yep. Oh, that's another thing too. I think I have it in there. You do have to mirror the legs and the arms. Yeah, you want to download the file right here at the top right. Download the Fusion 360 archive and it will give you the whole thing. Sometimes models that are hidden won't show up here. You can merge these two together if you just want a single color. You want to merge those, right? Yes. The instructions on how to do that is inside the guide. These are all separate models for dual extrusion. You can merge those all. It's like the hips. Yeah. Where's his legs? Oh, right here. There's one leg. Oh, right. That's an assembly. So two of these, the hips, two arms, two body, two legs, two hands. Cool. Any questions? There's no links there. All right. That's a little shop talk. Just looking back at making some new eat-a-bot parts. Cool. It's amazing. Let's see what the bot side exploded. Anyhoo, folks. That's shop talk. All right. It's up in two community makes. What do you know? More Lego and community makes. Yeah. Sorry, folks. We have a month of Lego compatible. All right. Lego compatible projects. So this is by Dave Makes Stuff. We've had a couple of time lapses from Dave. He makes good stuff. So this is a articulated snake. And it has Lego studs built into the top. We used a quantum filament from Matterhackers. It has a two-tone color. So one side looks gold. The other side looks purple. Very, very fun filament. Check it out if you haven't already. But the studs work out. Here's Pedro snapping in all these little mini-vigs. Always impressive when these studs work with actual Lego. Yeah. No supports needed. Any details on the model? No. It came out perfect first time. So, again, that's another thing that's surprising. And I do like the articulation of all the joints. It has some really nice articulation for whatever play kids. Got some wood to that. Ha! And then the filament, too, came out pretty well. You can see that we have that. Oh, wow. It almost has the color. It almost kind of goes back into the purple. Uh-huh. So one side has both gold and purple. Exactly, yeah. Pretty neat, yeah. It's always surprising when the filament doesn't sort of turn around inside of the extruder so you get that weird banding effect. But this one, it came out very nice. Nice flat bottom. Perfect surface infusion. Really neat texture here for the scales. Yeah, excellent disnerling effect. Excellent job on that. There's a couple of different sync designs that they've made since posting. Yeah, I think they have some letters, too. This is the first one that I saw because I was going to print that one out for Ducklin. Get his ABCs on a snake, like snakes. And that's the way to teach him all the ABCs that hasn't written on the top here. And then Phil saw this Lego one and said, hey, make this one. Yeah, that's what Phil does. Make this. Very politely. I don't know what else I could build. Like a platform. It's a saddle. There you go. I'll build the saddle. Very cool. Go ahead and check out the link there. Oh, right. Let me pull that up. Play around with it while I pull it up. Let's go loading. There it is. Looking good here. Much more elaborate little build there than I did. Yeah, you got a lot of minifigs. And I like the sand color there. Yeah, it's a good color. Awesome, yeah. Wow, that came out really good. This is FDM? Yeah, I think so. Maybe it's like a higher. Maybe it's a layer height. Alright, I'll do a quick read here. Dave. What she calls it, the brick boa. Like that. Like that. What's your favorite Lego pizza is? Here's a video. Here is for the stable download. And then the planes. In case this website goes down. But yeah, like a ball and socket joint. Like a snake test. There's a short version as well. So check that one out. Just to kind of test out your tolerances. That's pretty smart. Yeah, yeah. Um, certain structures was done in antipycology. Cool. That's a program? I think so. Antipycology. Huh. Really? I don't know. Okay, alright. You have to take a look at all of his designs. You can see some of the other snakes. Which I believe that typology program is what he's using to create these veranoi. Veranoi snakes. Yeah. These look freaking awesome. These. Wow. Right? So some like shoes and a couple of other models. Yeah. That is pretty clean. Wow. I feel like we need to print those out now. Maybe the eggs. Just because of how cool those are. Yeah, I made shoes. So yeah, check out these mixed up. Mixed up. Make some really cool veranoi stuff. Cool. I think we have some community makes this week. Yes, we do. So let's run through those. Jump into that. We got a really cool iPhone. Telephoto. Sorry. Telescope adapter. We do? Oh no. That's a case. Sorry. This is the iPhone X case from several years ago. Squash or Joe on printables posted their make. So they made it in TPU filament. It's a flexible kind of bumper. And the images aren't loading right now. So I'll show them to you. But there's a little thing of it. There is a good thing of it. Yeah. So you can see here. I think it's updated. Did you? I did not. I did not have any of those in there. So yeah. So they remixed it or something. Very nice. It's updated in every one TPU. Works well. We haven't tried their TPU yet. So good to see that it works. Oh no, you did. But you didn't add like a verno I think. That's what I was looking at. Yeah. It's got little buttons and stuff. Cut out for the volume switch. Always a pain to make. Yeah. Those are fun. Check them out. Just have PLA ones too. Okay. Next up. Another one here from printables. Probably known as crucibles. So this is a Raspberry Pi case for the HQ camera. And our latest make is from 560. 560 posted up their photos. It says printed in PrusaMint Clear Pet G. Works out really great. It remixed the back panel to fit the Pyramony HyperPixel 4.0 display. Which also works out great. Modularity for the win. Nice. I love that comment. Only oddity was getting the camera room cable fit right. But that was easily taken care of by threading the FEC cable around the board by the SD socket. Very cool. There was just enough room there between the side of the SD card and the standoff on the corner for the HyperPixel. I need to get myself a HyperPixel. Look at this. I was going to say it looks really nice. That looks really nice. But look at the display. It's just boom, boom, boom. It's very, very big. Very beautiful. It encapsulates the size of the vine. It's bigger than the vine. Yeah. So that is super dope. Shoot shots, Pyramony. I got to get me one. That is fantastic. I want to use this as just a... Imagine our Py... Octoprint. Octoprint displays. What we really do is have an Octoprint just for the CNC machine. Because now that I'm doing these longer batches, I'm always going back and forth between the room. Just to make sure that my bit hasn't broken or the wood hasn't fallen off of the bed. Besides that one. We need to redo the Octoprint learn guide. I keep seeing feedback on there. Does this work with this? And it's like, you know, six years old or whatever. Like using the touch UI. Right. We need to totally revamp that. That would be the entire thing this year. Yeah. With the HyperPixel. Looks super cool. Yeah. With the HyperPixel. Very cool. Does it... Maybe we can get with the HyperPixel. Sorry, folks. I thought we were stalking it. So what is this one? Oops. All right. I'm putting an order in. And it's a touch screen. Do you want it? Order. Order. Sorry, Lola. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'm glad they're in stock. Cool. Everybody pick them up before we order 10 of them. Get all of the printers. We are not ordering 10 of them. Each one needs a... It's a part short. You have to be there. There will be one limited per customer. All right. Well, that was a fantastic make, huh? Made us buy something. Or buy our money. So shout out to 560 for that modification to their case. If the walls are out there, I'm going to need to ask them. Can I get some files? So nice. They were great. It's a fantastic build there. What was the link for that? Available on the... We have them in stock. I already added it in the cart. It's the one in London. It's PID... 3578. 3578. I have 11 items in the cart. So it looks like I got a bunch of heat shrinks and stuff. It's kind of our conceivable that we go through. Yeah. All right. One more. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's looking at my cart. Is this the magic wand from John? No. It's actually... Oh, the galaxy's edge. Bottle cap? Bottle cap. Excuse me. I don't know what that was. On my head. Sorry. There you are. Like trying to post all the links before. Chug it and that's it. Died here. All right. This is a really cool bottle cap for those custom soda bottles that they have at Star Wars, Galaxy's Edge. I forget why. They're actually very useful for folk. I forget why. Like when Gavin was five or six, he struggled to open these bottle caps. And these have such great like edges to grip onto. It turns it into a... Accessibility. Accessibility thing. And the other thing is like this is modular. It just snaps in over your standard cap so you can use it for other bottles. The standard I did make a couple of sizes based on whatever bottles I had lying around. So you have multiple sizes. Like that one. It might fit on just a regular cap. I don't know what the size is. I don't remember I made this long ago. But you can change the diameter in the spline cap if you want. I thought I had one around. Yeah, I thought so too. But anyway, a fellow over here on the principles J.S. posted this up. And they say, nice model. I'm looking for a way to tag my drinks at the fire station. I found it. To let it to let it fit a standard U.S. soda bottle or water bottle. Not the lightweight water bottles. I reduced the X and Y in the Prusa Slicer to 45 millimeters. I printed infusions infusion filament. Uranium yellow, HTEED PLA at .2 layers. And if it's perfect, thanks for the cool design. I'm going to sneeze. I don't have one around here somewhere. So cool. You can just change the... Oh, just the scalaster. Perfect. So that worked out well for your regular soda bottle. And it's a good way to label your drink. No, that's perfect. We have that problem here. We do. Very cool. The Fusion 360 file, I did release that. So you can just edit the sketch. You can edit the sketch for the diameter. Why is there that one? Oh, it's a 3. Looks like you have the diameter. There it is. 30, 34, 30. And I guess 45 was what J.S. put up there. And then that's what the actual bottle's at. Galaxy's edges. Right. Whatever that is. They're cute little coke bottles. I don't think so. I know. I think that's when we had just started keto. So I bought that just to... I took one sip and then... I'll do the whole thing now. I love Coca Cola. Very cool. The Desani water bottles I think had the same caps. Wait, did they? I don't think they had the water bottles. I think that's why I did that. So I could put it on there. All right. Very cool make. And then we have one last one. Here it is. If I can click. All right. And this one's from Thingiverse. This is when I was talking about this wand. So this is a remix from our Sonic LED glowing emerald. What? From the Sonic movie. How is... Oh. So Colise86 posted this up on Thingiverse as a remix. This is a scepter for the small emerald to be printed in two parts and glued together. I also included the Fusion 360 file modification. Nice. This looks cool. Great thing. I figured there was a bunch of emeralds that you could work with. But now I guess... How cool. It's a simple emerald that you can reuse and remix in kit bash into your prop. So that's really cool. You can just kit bash some of these parts. It's very, very cool. I like it. I'm not sure what the scaling is, but it'd be cool to see a big version of that. So shout out to Colise86. I'm posting that up. And that is this week's community makes. Thank you everybody for posting up your mages. And all the different sites I like seeing. First the bowls, printables. And Thingiverse. That's all we got. All right. Any fun gifts? We got some fun gifts. We got the BD1. Is it DB1? DB1 from Yanni. Can't wait for that Lego kit. She released a mini infinity gauntlet too. A mini infinity gauntlet? I don't know why you need a small one. For the kids. All right. I think that's going to be it for this week. Okay. Well, we're on just on time. We got about a minute. Don't go anywhere tonight. We got two shows. Show and tell. We invite you to come on and share your stuff. It starts at 7.30 p.m. Eastern time. You will get an invite in the Discord chat room. Just click on the link. Make sure your camera and microphone are all ready. Hey, Pooch. Hello, dog. Let's see what else. I think it's going to be hosted by Lamar and Phil. Come on. Come on away. You're going to make him think it's time for a W-A-L-K. Can you push the E button? There you go. What else? African engineer starts at 8 p.m. Eastern time. Yes. Tune in for all the latest what's going on behind the scenes and new products and projects. This is a saluki. He's a mini saluki. It's like, where's my food? Yeah. In squirrels. I cannot say that. He's going to think they're here. Okay. So, Chantelle, asking engineer back to back. Get a coupon code at 9.00, 8 p.m. Eastern time. Ask engineer, full hour of the landfill, open source hardware, top secrets. News and more. Ion MPI. And then tomorrow, got John Park's workshop, awesome projects always in the works. And then on Thursday, Friday. Deep times with Tim. Okay. We might see Scott back as well. We're still, yeah, check back. Every Friday at 2 p.m. Pacific or 5 p.m. Eastern. And then on Sundays, we have Desk of Lady Aida. Last week's episode, I think Phil's going to upload soon. Yeah, do a search. So that'll be up soon. Check that out. All the awesome search with Digikey. So all the latest parts that Lamar is searching for during this part is shorted. Just make sure to tune in for that. Yep. And then Tuesdays is the JP's product of the week. This week it was the Joy stick. Yeah, it's the other joystick. They're cool. Yeah, you get up to 50% off. Select parts. During the show. Make sure you subscribe. Mondays, we have the Circle Python meeting with the exception of US holidays. This week, we had a US holiday on a Monday. So it happened yesterday, which was Tuesday. Normally, every Monday at 2 p.m. Eastern time. And this happens in the Discord chat room. You can listen to the recap on YouTube. And I think the audio recording stays inside of the Circle Python Discord chat room. I also subscribe to the podcast. The podcast app for Apple. We do that. So yeah, every Monday, check this out. And then back over to Wednesdays. We do the show every Wednesday at 11. And Eastern time. That's in the colors of the theme. All right. And that's it for the show. Good luck for all your maker endeavors. And with that, make a great day. Make a great day, folks. See you later tonight. Thanks for hanging out. We'll see you tonight. Bye.