 All right, you guys we are here for week three of the Royal Wedding Sew Along I've got new look six five to six and I've also got my fabric laid out Today we are gonna be working on the bodice of view a and or b Which is that really pretty princess seam v-neck? Bodice a lot of you really liked my muslin of that and I agree I think that that was my Favorite of the two as well, so I'm gonna start with that one I did want to talk to you a little bit about the cutting layouts as recommended on the pattern instructions You remember we talked a little bit about border print fabric and you know that view a is designed specifically for border print fabrics, so you'll see when you come here Views a and b are cut on the crosswise grain Which means instead of cutting them with the pieces all facing Toward the cut edge the face the pieces all face the selvage edge So that whenever you have that really pretty border print on the edge of your fabric here And on the other selvage edge of your fabric you get that Design on the bottom of your skirt and then it kind of like creeps up your body like it does here So you have to cut out your fabric against the grain if you're going to be using a border print, but you don't have to obviously you can reorganize the pieces yourself and Cut them with the grain like you're traditionally probably used to if you don't have a border print So I do not have a border print So I have laid out my pattern pieces in the following manner And these are the bodice pieces again So on the top left We have the midriff front cut on the fold and then below that is the midriff back and Below that is the bodice back and then in the center top That is the bodice side front and then we have the bodice front below that and then I went ahead and threw in the Pocket piece over there even though we won't be using that Until we get to the skirt portion of the sew along It just fit up there. So I just tossed it up there But so this is the cutting layout that I'm going to use feel free to copy this if you're also making this pattern But the rest of the video is going to be dedicated toward putting together the bodice for view a or b I'm going to show you some tips for marking your dots and also how to attach the Princess seams in a way where it's nice and smooth and you don't get like a ton of puckers or anything like that Where you get a really beautiful seam. So let me get this all cut out and I'll be back in a minute Alright, so I have cut out all of my bodice pieces. They are very beautiful As well as the pocket piece and I just wanted to point out that in addition to clipping all of your notches I just clip right to the point of the Triangle, I don't actually cut out the triangle. I just clip right through but after you cut All your notches if you're making the sleeved version, which is technically view B Then you're also going to need to mark these dots On your arm side So this is the one for the front and this is the one for the back and this is going to help you line up your sleeve Whenever you go to sew them, you'll notice on your sleeve piece as well that there are also these dots So they will all Match up as you're sewing your sleeve together And I just want to show a real quick and easy way to mark them and how I mark mine pretty much every single time So you just take a um a pin like you would use for anything else and you put it through the Circle that you want to mark right through the middle of it You remove this one to make it easier. I'm also doing this one-handed Just shows you how easy it is um And then you're going to peel back the pattern paper and you can see that you have the center of the Circle marked with your pin now you can either pull your paper off completely But I don't like to have that huge hole in mine So I just fold it back and then you take your marking tool whether it's a chalk pen or a regular pen disappearing ink whatever it is And you mark right where that pen goes into the fabric like so and then you flip over your Fabric and you have the pen coming through the opposite side and you just do the same thing You mark it um with the Pin or chalk or whatever it is that you're using so you're need to do that on the bodice side front the bodice back as well as these two marks on your Pocket piece because that is where it is going to line up with the skirt So get all your notches marked or clipped and then get all of your dots marked depending on if you're making sleeves or not All right before we can actually start sewing this together We need to interface a few of the pieces So what I do is I lay down my piece. I still honor the grain line So that's parallel to the selvage edge This interfacing if you're wondering is a fusible tricot. I think it's the heat and bond brand But honestly any of them will do I think the most important thing is just make sure that it's lightweight And nothing too stiff You still want to maintain the fluidity of your fabric But you still need to have some structure and stability so that these Bias angles never warp or got a shape So I lay it down and then I trace around it and then I'm not a huge fan of cutting exactly the same Seam lines as the fashion fabric It's not going to go all the way to the edges and that will help reduce some of the bulk that you have In your seam lines So for the back interfacing piece, which has its own Pattern piece. I just wanted to show you quickly how I am Eliminating the seam allowances from the pieces. So for the back that has its own Facing piece. I'm just trimming right off the pattern piece I'm not tracing or anything like that and I'm only going to trim the interfacing seam allowance from the Edges that have a seam. So that's going to be your shoulder seam here and your back collar here This seam here is this line here is not a seam. It's just going to fit nicely into the Collar of your back pattern piece like so something along these lines Like that and you can see it's just the interfacing is just going to stop a few inches Below the collar. So you don't really need to trim the interfacing there You probably actually do want it to go as far down as the pattern piece indicates So once I determine which Seam lines are going to get trimmed then I take these very handy seam allowance curves Um These are by lunagraphics and these are handy because the width of the plastic here is five eighths seam five eighths of an inch So that is your seam allowance on most patterns. So all you want to do is There's a curved edge and a straight edge So for the shoulder seam for example, you just line it up with the edge of the pattern piece And you draw your line in and then for any curved edge You just match it up along the curve wherever that might be and then you can quickly draw in your Your line it goes by so much faster with this tool not to mention I'm not being super precious with it or super exact or anything like that Because this is just trimming so it doesn't have to be precise but for your pattern pieces that act as Your fabric piece your lining piece your interfacing piece your contrasting piece I don't want to cut off Anything from this pattern piece. So you can be a very good non lazy sewist And trace them off onto your favorite tracing paper Or you can do like I do and trace them directly onto the interfacing and then use this ruler to mark your Seam allowances or your trim line. However, you want to look at it Directly on to the interfacing and then trim out that line. It's really up to you how you want to do it It's probably if you're going to make the pattern multiple times more time Effective if you go ahead and trace it off that way It's just one step one time instead of multiple steps multiple times. All right. So I have got the fusible interfacing applied to the Back remember, it's just the little collar section shoulder section and a little bit of the arm side for the back The entire side front piece This is the front. I'm sorry. This is the back Midriff waistband thingamajig and this is the front piece which is cut on the fold So I've got all my pieces prepped and ready to go So now we can go ahead and get sewing The very first step in our instruction booklet Is to Let me focus this a little bit better Okay, first things first. This is step number one after we've applied the interfacing We are going to stitch the center front seam of the bodice front sections from lower edge to small dot which means um on the Front piece here. We're going to stitch from this edge Up through to the center front. That is going to be our Very first step and then from there Um, we stitch the side front sections to the bodice front And I'm going to show you give you some tips on how to do that So that you get a really beautiful seam here without any puckering Um whatsoever, so let me get this sewn first and I'll be right back all right, so the easiest and most Effective way to attach seams is to Try and not worry so much about matching the raw edges So we've got a few notches to help us out. We've got a lower notch here a lower notch here We've got another one here and another one here So my first step always is to pin those two points together That's going to tell us a lot about where to ease everything in And where not to um this whole thing is not eased so it doesn't really help you to just um match the ends you really need to match the um the Those notches as well. So after I match the notches and pin them then I go and match the edges Like so All right, so now you can tell you've got a smooth Where the raw edges match here And then the raw edges also match from here to here But in this area you can see it's like creating this little opening where the two seem like They don't want to go together But they definitely do they just go together at the seam line Not necessarily at the raw edge. So work them together Manipulate them around a little bit This is why it's also beneficial to not have your interfacing all the way to the edge Because you can kind of stretch this out a little bit and make the two fit in Together better And then you'll also see as you start doing this this edge here is going to create Little ripples along this edge here So I like to take my scissors and cut The one that's not rippling the edge that's laying flat because that is going to Give it enough room to kind of mimic what is happening here So once you clip to The seam line but not through and again having the interfacing there helps a lot I'm clipping maybe half an inch worth You can start to see how it starts to automatically Lay flat So now the two seams are totally laying flat together and it'll be much easier for you to sew those together And I'll show you again on the other side So we want to take Our side bodice piece We want to line up The bottom notch like so And then we want to line up the top notch like so then Line up the top edge like so And now the bottom edge And again, you'll see between the two notches. It's like they're not really getting along But if you put in a couple of pins Move things around a little bit You will get them You'll get the um side front piece to ease in to the front bodice piece and then To help the um The two kind of marry themselves together even better You're going to clip to the seam line of the one that's straight not the one that's all bubbly And it looks like I'm only needing really two clips one Two and once you do that it creates a little wedge And they automatically Lay flat So you can see here. I've got my two Princess seams ready to be sewn So I'll show you what they look like after that and after I get them pressed. Okay, there we have it This is our completed Like I don't know. I'd call it our upper bodice where we have the center front seam done And we also have our princess seams Um sewn the instructions tell us to press These seams open and these seams toward the center front So that's what I did. You can use a pressing ham to help you but honestly, I didn't even use mine It wasn't that hard um So it's looking really beautiful again still loving this little sweetheart neckline So moving right along the next step is to attach the Front which is this piece to the back pieces at the shoulder seams So you're going to take this like so and this Like so and you are going to sew along this seam and this seam. You just want to make sure you don't get these two swapped um So like this, I know it seems hard to do but if you're not paying attention in a hurry like sometimes that can happen So just make sure you get the arm size matching. So like Over here. There's an arm side for the back and there's an arm side for the front and then the same thing over here So you sew the um shoulder seams and then you also want to sew together the side seams So we're going to match that notch and sew the side seams together And then we'll have our entire upper bodice um And then from there There's just all straight seams from after you get the princess seams done. It's all straight seams So from there, we'll attach the front midriff to the back midriff again similarly You want to make sure everything matches up because these this can look similar the this edge and this edge And you need to make sure that you're attaching it the right way. So it doesn't end up upside down Um, so again, you've got a curvy edge here and a flat edge here But also if you can't tell the difference, you know that your notches are going to Match up all along the side. So if you're in the right place, they will match up If you're in the wrong place On the wrong side, they won't match up. So if you're seeing your notches not match up You just need to move this To the other side And they will match up So i'm going to sew all these straight seams together shoulders sides and both sides of the midriff and i'll be back All right, we have got our entire bodice or upper bodice piece together We've got the back attached to the front And then we've also got our midriff piece completely Pieced together as well So the next step is to attach the midriff piece to the bodice piece So you're going to want to line up this center front and I always when something is um cut on the fold I always do put a little snip Right where the fold is just so I know that that is the center But even if you didn't do that they've got you covered because you've got these little notches here on either side of center front And you've also got them on your bodice So you match up those notches with each other and then you match up match up your side seams over here And then there's even some additional notches to line up along the um center or near the center back So you take these two things and you mesh them together right sides together and just line all of those points up all of the notches the um side seams More notches and then the other side seam and notch on the other side um, so You are going to be doing the rounded edge Of the midriff you can definitely see that curve with the bottom Of the bodice it can be a little bit confusing because there's similar notches on both sides of the midriff piece But this is the top and this is the waistband This is like right underneath your bust and this is your waist band here So attach these two together and then we will have a completed outer bodice All right, there we have it. That is our completed outer Bodice Um We are going to be working on the bodice for view c and d next week So if you are Sowing view a or b feel free to watch that video and see how it comes together Or just skip ahead to week Five where we will be attaching the skirt if you're making view c and d stay tuned next week I'll have the same similar style video, but for the wrap version So look forward to seeing you all here then. Goodbye