 Hey guys, welcome to another WSUBARU, SUBARU WRX video repair video What I have here is an 11 WRX You can tell because it says WRX It's the hatch version And I'm doing the brake booster and as usual midway I thought head I should record it and show you what's involved. This is the replacement This is a generic remanufactured from Arozone by Duralest, but it's been remanufactured in the USA Wanted to go original, but they said three weeks shipping and whatnot and From the dealer for $500 that one was 200 or so From the Subaru parts.com website. They're asking $300, but a hundred bucks Well, a little less with tax and all that another hundred dollars To ship it with that and another like three weeks or whatever I don't know. So anyways, so let me run you quickly what needs to be done Actually before I get into that I should tell you why I'm changing changing the brake booster It's because there's no brakes. You got to press really hard with two feet Stand on the brake pedal to get some kind of maybe 20% of brakes and I get a Hissing sound, you know, you press the brake and it goes And it's there all the time Which means there's a vacuum leak our pms go down slightly Which tells me there's a vacuum leak, right? to troubleshoot it I Removed the vacuum line from here This guy here the chuck valve that you want to also check is With a very easy accessible under the intake somewhere that's right there but to kind of you know troubleshoot this you can just excuse me Suck on it it should If you blow on it, it should go let air go through Into the intake manifold like it is now if you suck on it should keep Keep vacuum Yeah, I'm sure There should you know air escaping? Okay, that's that's working. So it simply has an internal air leak vacuum leak The booster that is right so you typically want to start from the inside well start from Disconnecting the battery negative then the first thing you do is you remove this this white thing whatever that was I'm not gonna even put it on kind of a Clip Before a clip so you want to remove this I'm gonna show you on the Brake booster once I get it out But you're gonna see it sticking out connected to the Pedal itself this guy here you can see there's a hole Right there this pin then Comes out To the left slides to the left here's the spot for the Here the hole for the clip and then this brake pedal Is going to be free and then you have the lovely four nuts all around Can't even see the top too But here you see the two bottom I think there's the top right and inside in the dark Spot there is the top left and they're all 12 mil like this and I used a Swivel extension and a swivel or a universal thing like this So that's that on the inside then the fun continues now I was hoping I didn't have to remove the intake manifold which I didn't as you can see this is almost out Okay, I stopped To show you you want to loosen this up That's where the brake master cylinder attaches to Over here you got the seal on the inside too if you have a replacement replace it When I unplug this Here first probably then I just loosen up Loosen up these guys and then loosen up the brake lines the actual brake lines The one that goes on top here. I mean, it's obvious right and the one on the side loosen them up You want to actually want to loosen those up first before you loosen these up once you got those loose remove these I believe they are 12. Yeah, they are 12 Take those out remove the Brake lines suck the fluid out with whatever you've got I use this syringe with a hose attached to the to it and just sucked it out It's gonna make your job easier because it's gonna Some of it is gonna spill okay From the master brake cylinder then Once you have an open area here. You want to obviously you want to remove the intercooler. Okay the bracket also And there's another bracket underneath. There's a bolt these clamps here The obvious stuff. Okay guys, I mean if you're watching this you got to know Somewhat what you're doing. So just remove the obvious then what you want to do remove these Lines like this this clip right here from the AC line this AC line There is another So this can actually move away and you can bring it down because all this stuff is gonna be in the way Then there is a another AC line on the bottom here running along the frame. You want to remove it from the Clips right here. There's two one more there. Just push it out towards the engine and there is actually plugged in. There's a sensor Probably I'm gonna see it There is a sensor Right there Unplugged that that harness will let you won't let you move the line down So you want to make sure you want to move all that you're aiming for moving all these AC lines and whatever is in your way down. Okay, also Undo this tight here guys. It's tight And I'm do this harness here from this clip and just move it down push it down So you're able to push these down, right? Then you also want to remove this Hose for the inner cooler which in my case I was able to access the bolt For the clamp right through here This guy it was just right like that there. I'm gonna put it back the same way then the only I actually thought about removing the clutch slave cylinder you can see those both the nuts are removed, but I kind of stopped and With a slight force Started removing this I finally cleared there is this harness you can see in the back of it Okay, this kind of loops in front of it once you get this moving as I'm gonna be easy guys Okay, even those bolts and these are removed. It's gonna get stuck on the thread. So just work. Oh, no, don't don't go back Don't go back So just kind of jiggle it and then move this harness because it's attached on the bottom via clip So you just want to kind of move it away and then just squeeze this harness Between the the shock tower here and the brake booster and then you're almost home free and the only thing that's gonna be in the way is this Lower brake line there This guy here, but just kind of ignore it and just push through Use use some muscle So that should be it I think Yeah, so remove all these lines that are in the way or Make them loose so you can push them down. All right, we're gonna continue on Yanking this out. You can see that brake line there. It's Still my I'm gonna just Push it up. This is also tight These fuel lines something Is falling apart on the bottom Yeah, it wasn't actually that bad so that's Well, it looks like You can say hello to the cabin Is that wet? No All right, so this is fine over here. This is the harness I was talking about Okay, this is actually in front and you can see this actually attaches to the one of the studs on the brake booster All right, so you got to remember to swing it to the front when you're putting it back and Our old friend Rusty says hello, so this explains a lot There's actually fluid inside No fluid guys No fluid. Oh, that's why we need to oh Okay, I guess we just need to replace the The brake fluid on the inside of the booster and just put it right back in right so no need for the new one Yeah, but that's a Yeah Yeah, our friend Rusty Oh, oh the water or no, it's water actually look at this Not even break fluid. It's water. We got a Booster full of water That's a mess Anyways Tokiko made in Japan original need this now remember to don't just take this out Okay, you need to put it back the same distance on the new one So you don't have to adjust it while it's still in the car remove this little gasket Whatever it does, let's just put it on a new one It's there for a reason Okay So They are a little bit different. I'm actually gonna measure the distance from The booster to the top of that bolt here We're stud and see if it's the same. Okay, so about four and a quarter. Maybe a little bit less four and a quarter Four and four and one eighth. Okay, so there is a bit of a difference Yeah, you can really Yeah, they're out all the way so I'm just gonna I'm not gonna go count the threads I'm gonna go measure it from here and Make sure the height of the nut is the same on the new one, you know this nut, you know, you got to make sure your nuts are At good height Very important step I'm actually eyeballing it a little bit So to the top of the nut that's three Whatever is between five eighths and six and three fourths Why can't this be in millimeters? Anyways, let's remove this Okay, let's look It's a 17 and you can use a 19 or whatever and this guy. So that was here, right? I think And this is all we need and now we can do the measurement again. So what did I say between? Top of the nut three and they moved it Five eighths a little bit over five eighths Three and a little bit over Five eighths There we go Okay, hold that in place. That's probably gonna be different. No same size lucky me Hold not in place and tighten the bracket Doesn't have to be super tight This still will turn so you can Put it back in the same, you know the way it was That's it. This is it. This is ready to go Okay, so Back in you go Into the hole you go I'm gonna ignore the harness for now. It's gonna get it in there Obviously the brake line is gonna gonna pull on it The bottom brake line there and try and clear the Maybe the cap. I'm gonna remove the cap on the slave cylinder It's gonna give me a little bit more room Yeah, guys if you spill brake fluid remember brake fluid is also in the slave cylinder if you spill that on your paint Wash it off right away. You probably have a minute or less Before it eats your paint away. Oh man Ain't easy guys, I mean how difficult would it be to remove the Clutch kind of thinking and talking at the same time Thinking out loud This is not moving at all Maybe clear the slave first also prepare for a back pain, you know, all right different approach All right, I guess same approach just maybe Some cussing will help. I mean how the hell did I take that out? Did I have it turned? Does it matter? What's the secret over here taking this off? Would most certainly help But that involves the wipers all this plastic Which I'm just probably gonna struggle for half an hour Without removing anything else, you know, that's how we get things done guys. What's my way? Slave is the issue here Angle it more Oh, oh, oh, oh it's magic you get this things break it off The fuel depth nurse take them off No Not Just this Break line Come on, we have cleared the slave cylinder now to get that break line In front, if you break a finger while doing it Ha ha, that's not in the hole We missed the hole guys and that mysterious gasket came off Oh my oh my actually But guess it was just off. How am I gonna make it to the hole now break line in the way again? So it's not easy guys. I Got to take something off try and take off the bracket for these fuel lines here Way off of the hole guys Just whale But since this bracket is off. I have the brake lines actually move can move away Further That's in oh we're going somewhere. Is that gasket still on? No Obviously, it's not gasket on And here we go easy All right, oh The harness harness we gotta move to the front any of you remember. All right, I gotta Take a minute. She might want to Put the cap back on so nothing Gets in there the harness Okay, there's one more Another guy. Okay. That's this guy. That's I can stay and I'm gonna Make it into the firewall. Yeah, this wasn't when I was first taking this off. I Really had to pull because it's so close to the shock tower There we go All right We're gonna get the inside done I'm gonna show you the result Can't really be there with the camera, you know, you're not gonna see shit But I'll show you the result and they're gonna get back in here You see this the clip and the pin go right through now. Sometimes there is a kind of I don't know like a spacer or call it a washer or whatever in between the clip so there is no play side-to-side But you kind of like shove it in and then you put a pin through but that wasn't here in my case So I don't know if that's supposed to be like that or the little thing is missing But this will be fine For some reason, I don't know how that's Related or not Clutch pedal goes in now Hmm, and it doesn't come back is what I mean. All right guys so quickly now I'm just gonna first. I'm gonna take care of these little plugs here and there the harnesses plug it all back in Then I'm gonna do this holes Clamp it down through there. Remember, you know, put all this Stuff back Okay, here and there there's this bracket for the fuel lines The master cylinder tighten up the bolts on the Scratch slave What else was here? Yeah, this this can go Back on there's that sensor for the AC and I was talking about that needs to be plugged in and put the line needs to be put back on and Yeah, tighten everything up put the lines back on and Then I have to bleed the brakes and since this car is gonna see autocross I'm gonna use Motul 600. I think that's what it is All right, just trust me on this. It's 600 the reason for the 600 is because this car is also going to be Daily driven well kind of here and there and only auto X for now next year And then ice racing this winter coming winter most likely track and auto X next year Now for mine look, this is back 660 I think I have a bottle of Of 660 Motul did I say Motul or Castro? so this goes into the white STI because it's autocross and track It's just better for that, but it's worse if it comes to sitting Now this bottle has been opened for over a year. Maybe longer. This is garbage. Okay. It's I'm sure it's absorbed moisture and stuff I do have to do Bleed the brakes on this guy, but I am going to reuse the 660 and since I got a little Bleed the brakes on the blue one. I'm gonna use 600 and it's gonna be still good for all winter and Maybe even beginning of next season for our crossing Because it absorbs less moisture. It's less corrosive more corrosive six six hundred less corrosive 660 more corrosive 600 less corrosive All right, let me show you the intercooler. That's the bolt on the passenger side. I'm talking about it's right underneath I don't even know if this is the original intercooler never worked on a Hatchback before not familiar with the intercooler setup. It probably is original but this bracket But this bracket doesn't look original to me and there it had 13 mil bolts These guys here and 13 mil bolts. You don't see those on a Subaru Anyways got most of it on Now a few tips before you push this once you got this in Before you push it and go inside and check if that bracket or the clip whatever you want to call it goes Right on the brake pedal Thing rod whatever, you know, so it hugs it so It's like this mine was on the side and I had to pull this out. Well, you know, not fully just a little bit and then I positioned the brake rod pedal thing in between and This does need some pounding to get all the way Into the firewall and Those inside ones they are fun. Good luck the nuts that is so got all these lines situated now all that's left is this hose with the clamp then there is a little 10 mil bolt that holds this Though the blow-off valve in in place then this is the What is this where's this going? Oh, yeah, that's the vacuum for the blow-off or is it the Recirculating valve, whatever you call it on the Subarus. I don't need any of this to actually bleed the brakes. So now I'm gonna Oh, yeah, and this is fun too guys. Make sure these fittings. They're easy to crossfit or cross thread Make sure once you get it in a little bit make sure look at from look at it from different angles this way This way and see if it's straight Because you know you can't and lubricate this in between the line and the nut the fitting lubricated So it's easier to turn the bottom one. That was fun. I mean took me I don't know five ten minutes to actually catch the threads and start working it in All right, so that's done now. I'm gonna fill this up with the 600. Oh Yeah, I gotta raise it up and remove all the wheels to break those caliper Bleed screws break them free and start bleeding not gonna show it. It's obvious fill that up You know Start from the farthest Away, which would be the rear right then rear left front right Front left just keep at it until there is no bubbles or you see the actual fluid If you if you were changing fluid then usually the old one's gonna be a little bit darker brownish color You just wait until it becomes clear if you're just replacing brake fluid Sometimes you get you know a different color fluid like blue or Whatever then you just wait for that color to get that true color, you know, and then you're you know, you're done guys all is done New fluid The RBF 600 everything is bled Let's go for a spin before it was literally standing on the pedal and The rotors are still rusty. This car has been sitting for Three years I'm told it still does It's going for tuning right now. That's why I did the brake booster So it's safe to drive after the tune getting new Rotors break that's gonna just the parking brake new tires the Falcon 660s, I think just maybe catch an autocross one or two Then come winter time it's gonna get winter tires Why is racing a few times? And then come next summer next spring It's gonna get oil overs for sure sway bars then most likely different pads It's gonna see some track days Right now it's an economy too. So there's rarely any boost Got the XS4 3.0 Alignment obviously corner balancing Hey guys Subscribe like the video See you next time