 Preface and Chapter 1 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Published 1862. Recorded by Chris Chapman. Preface. Serving in the same regiment with the head of the family to which belonged Robert O'Hara Burke and sharing the personal attachment which every member of that family seems to inspire in those who know them, I naturally felt a deep interest in the noble career and melancholy fate of the gallant leader of the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. Animated by a strong feeling of admiration for the active energy, steadfast courage and patient endurance shown by this brave man in every stage of this arduous enterprise, I undertook the present attempt to record the incidents of the exploration of central Australia so successfully achieved. My task has been limited to arranging consecutively the letters and journals of the explorers and forming the whole into a connected narrative of the progress and results of the expedition, the vicissitudes of the exploring party and the fatal disasters which overtook them at last. In doing so, I have not been able to refrain from censuring the conduct of one of the party in particular as well as vindicating Mr. Burke, who in his character as leader of the expedition presents a noble example of those qualities which are called for in the soldier, the voyager and the pioneer of civilization. Andrew Jackson, Ensign, Third Buffs. Malta, June 1862. Chapter 1 Introductory The vast extent of the unexplored portion of the great Australian continent had long baffled numerous efforts made to penetrate its mysterious and silent depths. Although it was believed that the immense tract of country lying between the 15th and 30th parallels of South latitude and 120th and 145th meridians of East longitude contained in all probability habitable space sufficient to afford an eligible home to millions of civilised beings, yet none of the parties equipped at different times to explore it had ever done more than obtain a partial and unsatisfying success. Difficulties caused by want of water, impassibility of ground, and dangers connected with the open hostility or treacherous friendship of the aboriginal tribes had repelled the intrepid efforts of such men as Sturt, Gregory, Oxley and others who had vainly striven to overcome them. While the mysterious fate of the esteemed and lamented Leicart, although it did not prevent fresh attempts from being made, had yet exercised a depressing and melancholy effect on the spirits of the enterprising public, tending on the whole to produce a belief that with regard to certain boundaries of central Australia, it might be safely said, hither shalt thou come, and no farther. To the Anglo-Saxon temperament, however, difficulties only serve as fresh incentives to exertion. The inhabitants of the colony of Victoria, urged by a recollection of the generous spirit displayed by neighbouring colonies, whose unassisted efforts had effected the more recent discoveries, and stimulated by the feeling that it behoved Victoria, as the wealthiest and most important of the group, to take her share in a work no less of the highest interest and importance in a scientific point of view, than likely to prove hereafter of great commercial advantage to themselves, convened a public meeting in Melbourne on the 1st of September, 1858, for the purpose of promoting the great object of Australian exploration. A donation of £1,000, unificently offered by an anonymous individual through the columns of the Argus newspaper, formed the nucleus of a private subscription, which speedily reached the sum of £3,200, and a further sum of £6,000 having been subsequently voted by the colonial legislature towards the expenses of the expedition. The whole fund was placed at the disposal of a committee of the Royal Society of Victoria, presided over by Sir Henry Barkley, KCB, Governor of the Colony. This society, which had already had under its consideration the great assistance likely to be derived from the use of camels in the interior, had previously made arrangements to import from India a number of these animals, 24 of which were successfully landed in first-rate order in the early part of 1860. After some further preliminary consideration as to the selection of a leader for the expedition, the choice of the committee at length fell on Robert O'Hara Burke Esquire, one of the superintendents of the police force of the colony, a short account of whose family and previous career will be found in the succeeding chapter. End of chapter 1. Chapter 2 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recorded by Chris Chapman. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Published 1862. Chapter 2. Mr Burke's Family. James Hardiman Burke Esquire, representative of one of the old families in the county of Galway in Ireland, was engaged like his sons after him in the service of his country, having been present with the Seventh Royal Fusiliers at the capture of the islands of Martinique and Guadalupe. After having served several years in the army, he retired to the family estates at St Clarence and died in January 1854. His eldest and now only surviving son, John Hardiman Burke, served 17 years in the 88th foot, with whom he was employed in the Mediterranean, West Indies, Nova Scotia and other foreign stations. He accompanied his regiment to Turkey on the outbreak of the Crimean War and was present at the battles of Ulmer, Inkeman and Balaklava. He served on the staff of Lieutenant General Sir John Burgoyne during the Siege of Sabastopol, was promoted for his services to a majority, and afterwards joined the Third Buffs, with which regiment he is at present serving in the Mediterranean. The second son, James Thomas Burke, also entered the army at an early age. A clever mathematician and skillful engineer, a high-spirited and daring soldier, brave even to a fault, he lost his life at the Battle of Georgiou on the Danube on the 7th of July 1854. Having, as a Lieutenant of Engineers, accompanied Sir John Burgoyne to the Seat of War, previous to the embarkation of the British Expedition for the East, he assisted Omar Pasha in making arrangements for the defence of Solistria, and being, like his countryman Butler, a volunteer in the service of the Sultan, entered that place among the gallant bands by whom it was afterwards so bravely defended. When the siege was raised, he joined Hussein Pasha at the fortress of Ruschuk, and strongly remonstrated with that general on his projected attack on the posts near Georgiou, on the grounds that for certain obvious strategical reasons, the Russians must speedily evacuate the town without causing any expenditure of life or labour. The hot-headed Hussein, however, who directed the operations from behind the walls of Ruschuk, decided on making the assault, and the brave Burke, like a gallant soldier, having first performed his duty in pointing out the rashness of the measure, immediately threw his whole soul into the work. The following account of his heroic death is taken from Russell's history of the Crimean War. When he first leaped on shore from the boat, six soldiers charged him, two he shot with his revolver, one he cut down with his sword, the rest turned and fled. While he was encouraging the Turks who were in the stream to row quietly to the land, and forming them in line as they disembarked, conspicuous as he was in full uniform and by his white cap cover, a number of riflemen advanced from behind a ditch and took deliberate aim at him. He charged them with headlong gallantry, and as he got near, was struck by a ball which broke his jawbone, but he rushed on, shot three men dead at close quarters, and cleft two others, through helmet and all into the brain with his sword. He was then surrounded, and while engaged in cutting his way with heroic courage through the ranks of the enemy, a sabre cut from behind nearly severed his head from his body, and he fell dead, covered with wounds, of which thirty-three, consisting of sabre gashers, lance and bayonet thrusts, blows from the butts of muskets and bullet holes, were afterwards found on his body. He was the first British officer killed in the Russian War. Two sappers, who were with him, stood by him to the last, but were afterwards swept away with hundreds of others before the walls of Sebastopol. One of these, Anderson, a most distinguished soldier, recovered the dead body of his officer on the morning after the battle, at the imminent peril of his own life, and was rewarded by Omar Pasha with the order of the Majidi for his heroic conduct. The third son, Robert O'Hara Burke, was born in 1821, and commenced his career as a cadet of the Woolwich Academy, but left it to enter upon a higher course of studies in Belgium. He afterwards entered the Austrian service as cadet in the Seventh Royce Regiment of Hungarian Hussars, and at an early period obtained his left tenancy. Quitting this service, he procured an appointment in the Irish Constabulary in 1848, and was almost adored by the men of that force, several of whom sent in their resignations when he left, and proceeded to Australia, that they might have an opportunity of continuing to serve under him. As another instance of the remarkable attachment he was accustomed to inspire in those connected with him, it may be mentioned that a woman named Ellen Docherty, of the age of sixty-five years, who had been his nurse, and whose heart yearned with the longing to see her, dear Master Robert, as she still continued to call him, left her comfortable home near the family seat of St. Clarence in the county of Galway, where she had been well cared for, as an old retainer of the family, and unknown to anyone, making use of the savings accumulated to sustain her in her old age, travelled unprotected, alone, with the best feelings of her heart clinging close round him, to try and see her darling once more before she died. Alas, that meeting was never to take place in this world. She reached Melbourne after he had set out on the expedition, from which he never returned alive. It is pleasant to know that her case excited the greatest sympathy in Australia, and that provision was afterwards made for her comfortable support by the government of the colony. Mr Burke emigrated in 1853, and was soon appointed acting Inspector of Police in Melbourne, whence he was transferred to a command at Carlsruhe, being soon after advanced to the Beechworth District to relieve Mr Price, the police magistrate, with promotion to the post of District Inspector. On the news of the Crimean War he hastened home on leave of absence, in the hope of getting a commission, but finding himself too late to share in the glories of the campaign, he returned to resume his Australian duties, in the discharge of which he rendered himself most popular. In 1858 he was removed to Castle Main, and was comfortably stationed there, when he applied for and obtained the appointment of leader of the Victorian Exploring Expedition. From the moment it became probable that he would be selected to fill this responsible post, Mr Burke is said to have diligently prepared himself for it, by devoting himself, with his habitual energy, to qualifying for it in every possible way. He had once commenced an active examination of the records of previous explorers, so as to become thoroughly acquainted with whatever had befallen them, as well as to acquire such knowledge of the interior, and remote coasts, as had already been placed on record. He had been at all times an accomplished and daring horseman, and now entered upon a course of severe pedestrian exercise, accustomed himself to fatigue and privation of every possible kind, that an attempt to traverse the vast, untrodden wilds of central Australia, was likely to bring to his experience. End of Chapter 2 Chapter 3 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recorded by Chris Chapman. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Published 1862 Chapter 3 Formation of the Exploring Party Exploration Fund Committee Public Dinner to Mr. Burke Mr. Burke's appointment was immediately followed by the selection of the other members of the expedition. Mr. G. J. Landles, who had originally been entrusted with the importation of the camels, and who had carried out the duties confided to him in the most successful and satisfactory manner, was offered the post of second in command, with the view of securing the aid of his personal superintendents in the management of animals, which had been provided at great expense, and from which much was expected. One circumstance connected with this appointment speaks so strongly to the high feeling and utter abnegation of personal interests displayed by Mr. Burke at this period, that it may be fitly mentioned here, to the honour of one of the most active and energetic men ever employed on an expedition of difficulty and danger. It is this, when Mr. Landles' salary, which it was proposed to fix at a certain rate, was on inquiry, found to be higher than that allotted to Mr. Burke, the committee at once saw the necessity of augmenting the leader's salary to a greater, or at least equal, amount. This, however, Mr. Burke firmly declined. Cordially supporting the proposition in favour of Mr. Landles, he said that gentlemen's services ought to be secured at his own price, or not at all, and that he cared nothing for money himself. How far this frank and manly course operated in setting an example of subordination and forbearance to Mr. Landles at a later period, when his adherence began to be of importance, will be seen from the sequel. The third officer of the expedition was Mr. William John Wills of the Melbourne Observatory. This gentleman, whose patience, perseverance, and noble fidelity to his leader never at any time forsook him, and whose name is immortalised as Burke's faithful companion in danger and in death, shares with his heroic chief the honour of being the first to cross the Australian continent from sea to sea. He was born at Totnes, Devonshire, in 1834, and, being destined for the medical profession, studied at St. Bartholomew's Hospital and distinguished himself as a student in chemistry. He arrived in Australia in 1852, where after some years spent with his father in the practice of medicine, during which time he had displayed a taste for, and great ability in the study of, astronomy and meteorology, he was at length nominated to the staff of the Observatory in Melbourne. He applied to join the expedition, which he did at considerable pecuniary sacrifice, and was at once appointed astronomical and meteorological observer, and third in command. Dr. Herman Beckler was appointed medical advisor and botanist to the expedition. Dr. Ludwig Becker was also attached to it as artist, naturalist, and geological director. The following were engaged as foremen and assistants in subordinate capacities. Mrs. Ferguson and Hodgkinson, William Bray, John King, William Patton, Charles Gray, Thomas F. McDonough, Dostor Mohamed, a sepoy, and two natives, named respectively Balooch and Botan. There were fifteen persons in all. The original committee, which at first belonged exclusively to the Royal Society of Victoria, had latterly become amalgamated with another body, selected at a public meeting for the purpose of raising subscriptions, under the name of the Exploration Fund Committee. These two, when united, took charge with the consent of the government of all subsequent proceedings, and were presided over by the Honourable Sir William F. Stowell, Chief Justice of the Colony, as Chairman. The other members were the Honourable John Hodgson, M. L. C., Vice-Chairman, Mr. Ligar, the Surveyor General, Mr. Hodgkinson, the Deputy Surveyor General, Professor McCoy, Professor Neumeyer, Dr. Mueller, Captain K. Dale, Mr. Selwyn, Reverend Mr. Bleesdale, Dr. Gilby, Dr. Eads, John Watson, Esquire, Angus McMillan, Esquire, Dr. Ifler, Cesar Elliott, Esquire, Dr. McKenna, James Smyth, Esquire, Dr. Embling, the Honourable Dr. Wilkie, Treasurer, and the Honourable Dr. McAdam, M. P., a Secretary. These gentlemen, having completed the appointment of the different officers of the expedition, etc., lost no time in providing the necessary stores and means of transport, and several members of the committee, among whom was Sir William Stowell, assisted Mr. Burke in the selection of the various matters necessary to be provided for that purpose. Large quantities of dried meat, flour, biscuit, sugar, forage for the camels and horses, as well as an abundant supply of veterinary and other medicines were supplied to the value of nearly £5,000. These were calculated to last for 12 months and were not intended to be trenched upon while the party remained within the bounds of civilization. Nothing that the most anxious care could suggest to provide for the comfort and safety of the explorers was omitted, and the most competent authorities in every branch of scientific inquiry, regardless of time and trouble, vied with each other in exerting themselves to give all the assistance and information possible, so as to render the expedition which Mr. Burke commanded one of the best-equipped bodies that had ever been organised for such a purpose. The astounding and heart-rending fact that these abundant stores were withheld from the bravest spirits of the party in their hour of greatest need and the name of the individual responsible for the fatal neglect will appear in its proper place hereafter to the shame and everlasting disgrace of the unhappy man who accepted and betrayed his leader's sacred trust. Mr. Burke did not leave the scene of his previous duties without receiving from the inhabitants of Castle Main abundant proofs of their attachment to him, as well as of the high estimation in which his services were held. On Friday, July the 6th, 1860, a large and influential assemblage sat down to a public dinner given in his honour, at which it was found impossible to furnish room for all the persons who wished to attend to bid their guests a kind farewell and wish him Godspeed. To assist in preserving the record of scenes which have acquired a mournful interest from Mr. Burke's sad fate, a brief account of what then took place is here transcribed, with a summary of some of the speeches delivered by the principal speakers on the occasion. The chair was filled by William Froome's Esquire, President of the Municipal Council. W. B. Collins' Esquire and Dr. Preshaw officiated as croupiers, and all classes of the community were ably represented by men most anxious to give expression to the unbounded enthusiasm which prevailed. After the usual loyal toasts had been given and responded to, the chairman rose to propose the toast of the evening. He remarked upon the cordial demeanor, Urbain and Frank Manor, and numerous sterling qualities of their honoured guest, and bore testimony to the humanity and discrimination with which he had performed many un ostentatious acts of kindness, while stationed among them. In thus giving expression to the sentiments of all, it became his duty publicly to assure Mr. Burke that, in his glorious undertaking as leader of the explorers, the prayers and best wishes of a thousand hearts would follow and accompany him, and that, while they regretted the loss they suffered in being deprived of his presence there, they yet felt a pride in the reflection that the man who they believed was destined to penetrate and explore the pathless wilds of Central Australia had some time lived among them, and would at some future period remember, perhaps with pleasure, the parting hours he had spent with his friends that day. The Reverend Jaye story also rose to say a few words. A brave man whom they all esteemed was going forth on an enterprise of national importance and great peril, and they had met to wish him with all their hearts Godspeed. If there really existed within their great continent a Sahara, a desert of sand, parent of hot winds, they should like to know the fact. If great lakes, on whose verdant banks thousands of cattle might feed, or watered plains which might tempt men to build new cities, let them know the character and promise of the land by the true report of a true man. As in the ancient days of Bible story brave men were sent to view the land of promise, so a gallant band now quitted them on a like, errant, and he might assure his guest that while his best wishes accompanied him, he could also promise that his party would be followed by the prayers of one congregation at least, who would remember him before the throne of grace, and pray that he and his brave companions might be preserved from all peril, and having prospered in their enterprise might come back, safe and triumphant, to be crowned with laurels by a grateful country. Last of all the meeting was eloquently addressed by Mr. Leech. He reviewed the history of exploration from the earliest times. He recognized in the energy of the Anglo-Saxon character a means made use of by Providence to bestow the blessings of civilization on millions of the human race. He pictured the rise and progress of future states within their vast continent, and trusted that the day would come when men of future generations teaching their children would say, My son, the country in which we live, was first open to us, by Robert O'Hara Burke. When Mr. Burke rose to respond, sometime elapsed before the enthusiasm of his admirers would allow him to make himself heard. He said he was about to make his first speech. He felt deeply the warm sympathy and hearty expressions of good will, with which he had that evening been honoured, and knew it was unnecessary for him to say how he appreciated the kind and generous feeling which led those present to encourage a man who found himself appointed to an arduous and difficult position. He had used every fair, honourable, and straightforward means to secure his post. Like all other men under similar circumstances, he had had his detractors, but he hoped that his future conduct would be to these a sufficient answer. With heartiest thanks to all who had been kind to him, and to the people of Castle Main particularly, he would cheerfully encounter his task, and he pledged himself to strain every nerve to bring the expedition to a successful issue. And nobly he redeemed his pledge. End of Chapter 3. Chapter 4 of Robert O'Hara Burke. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recorded by Chris Chapman. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Published 1862. Chapter 4. Departure of the Expedition. Journey to Menindy on the River Darling. Landals with draws from the party. Mr. Burke's difficult position. Division of the party. Measures for formation of permanent depot in the interior. On the 20th of August, 1860, the expedition quitted the Royal Park at Melbourne. Headed by Messers Burke, Landals and Wills, and amidst a burst of popular enthusiasm which seemed to pervade all classes, the heroic adventurers started on their perilous mission. On the 24th, the expedition camped at Sandhurst, and on the following day proceeded en route to Swan Hill, which it reached on the 6th of September, and at this place it was most hospitably entertained by the leading inhabitants, prior to its taking leave of the colony of Victoria. It then entered the adjoining territory of New South Wales, and proceeded towards the Darling, a tributary of the Murray River, into which the former flows about 120 miles south of Menindy. At this last named place, Mr. Burke established his first depot. He reached it about the 23rd of September, and although the journey so far had been easy, yet the whole of the stores had not arrived. A difficulty here arose with Mr. Landals, which led to that gentleman's withdrawal from the party. It would seem that Mr. Landals had laid such stress on the importance of the position he himself held in the expedition, that he was unable to control certain feelings of impatience at the exercise of authority on the part of Mr. Burke, although it was distinctly understood before the expedition left Melbourne that no divided authority could be recognised, nor could the absolute authority of the leader be permitted to be called in question. Indeed, it is difficult to conceive how any man in his senses could attempt to interfere with the absolute supremacy of command, indispensably necessary in an enterprise of such danger and importance. At all events, as has been said, a difficulty arose. Mr. Burke, considering that some rum which had been brought up for the use of the camels, endangered the sobriety of his men, decided on leaving it behind, but to this prudent measure Mr. Landals would by no means consent. Big with his own importance, and putting out of sight the necessity of implicit obedience to his chief, who was striving, at the peril of fame, fortune and life, to fulfil the duty with which he had been entrusted. Moreover, disregarding the possible evil effect of his withdrawal upon other members of the party, who already growing faint of heart, only sought a decent opportunity of retiring from their posts, and influenced himself, it was afterwards publicly suggested, by feelings of misgiving, Mr. Landals resigned. Whatever may have been his views with regard to the necessity of supplying rum to the camels, two things are certain. One, that these animals did most effectively perform their work subsequently, without the administration of any spiritual liquor, the disease from which they chiefly suffered, the scab, being cured, not by the use of rum, but by the application of an ointment composed of brimstone and grease. The other, that his withdrawal immediately led to the resignation of the medical officer of the expedition. Thus Mr. Burke was placed in a position of the gravest difficulty, at the very moment when the actual dangers of the exploration commenced, and which required to be met with unity of purpose, firmness and decision. Although Mr. Burke was thus suddenly deprived of the services of two persons upon whom he was justified in relying for cordial assistance and zealous support, he did not suffer the circumstance to interfere with the vigor of his action, or his prompt execution of the duties he had undertaken to perform. The following extract from a letter written by him to his sister at this time will show how soon dangers and difficulties began to beset him, and how resolutely and courageously they were encountered. I received your letter and have read it over and over again. It has been the greatest relief to my mind from dwelling on the difficulties and obstacles which obstruct me in the arduous task I have undertaken. I am waiting here for some stores I was obliged to leave behind, but if I wait too long my horses will grow mad from eating a herb which grows upon the river, so that I am not in the most pleasant position in the world, even at present. I long to see you the more, now that it is likely to be so long before we meet again, but if I accomplish my task I will go straight home to receive your congratulations in person. I am confident of success, but know that failure is possible, and I feel that failure would, to me, be ruined. But I am determined to succeed, and count on completing my work within a year at farthest. Accepting then, in its widest sense, the responsibilities of his position, Mr. Burke immediately set himself to look for fit persons to replace those who had forsaken him, and at once promoted Mr. Wills to the post of second in command. He afterwards met with a Mr. Wright, who volunteered to show the party a practicable route towards Cooper's Creek, 400 miles farther on, where it had been decided to establish a permanent depot, although different settlers and gentlemen on the river had endeavored to persuade Mr. Burke that it was not possible to get there at that season of the year. On this point, however, Mr. Burke determined to be satisfied by immediately putting himself in front at the post of danger, examining the route, and testing the degree of dependence that might be placed on Mr. Wright's promises. To avoid, however, compromising the safety of the whole party by rashly entangling them, encumbered with heavy baggage, in the mazes of an unknown country, without any reserve, he requested Dr. Bettler to remain at Menindy, in charge of the heaviest portion of the stores until arrangements could be made to forward them to Cooper's Creek. To this, the doctor readily consented, for though unwilling to accompany the party beyond the settlements, he had no objection to continue his employment under safe circumstances. Mr. Burke accordingly divided the expedition into two parts, one to act with himself as an exploring party under Mr. Wright's guidance, the other to remain with Dr. Bettler until measures should be completed to send them on for the establishment of a permanent depot in the interior. The following paragraphs from the written instructions issued to Mr. Burke by the Exploration Committee under date 18 August 1860 may probably be inserted here. The committee having decided upon Cooper's Creek of Sturt as the basis of your operations requests that you will proceed thither. Former depot of stores and provisions and make arrangements for keeping open a communication in your rear to the Darling, if in your opinion advisable, and thence to Melbourne, so that you may be enabled to keep the committee informed of your movements, and receive in return the assistance in stores and advice of which you may stand in need. Should you find that a radio communication can be made by way of South Australia police station near Mount Seale, you will avail yourself of that means of writing to the committee. Here follow suggestions as to certain routes recommended to Mr. Burke's notice. With the following addition, however, the committee is fully aware of the difficulty of the country you are called on to traverse, and in giving you these instructions has placed these routes before you, more as an indication of what is deemed desirable to have accomplished, than as dictating any exact course for you to pursue. The committee considers that you will find a better and a safer guide in the natural features of the country through which you will have to pass. For all useful and practical purposes, it will be better for you, and for the object of future settlements, that you should follow the water courses and the country yielding herbage, than to pursue any route which the committee might be able to sketch out from an imperfect map of Australia. The committee entrusts you with the largest discretion as regards the forming of depots and your movements generally, but requests that you will mark your routes as permanently as possible, by leaving records, sowing seeds, building cans, and marking trees at as many points as possible, consistent with your various other duties. That Mr. Burke, in addition to the marking of trees, etc., had various other duties claiming his personal superintendence, as foreseen by the committee, is worthy of note in this place, and the reader is requested to remember it. The exploring party under Mr. Wright's guidance left Manindi on the 19th of October, and the following dispatch written by Mr. Burke from Toruoto, about 200 miles further on, will show the fair reasons that existed for placing confidence in Mr. Wright as well as explain the arrangements made for preserving the communication with Melbourne. Toruoto, October 29th, 1860 Footnote, received by committee 3 December, 1860 End of Footnote Sir, I have the honour to report that I left Manindi on the 19th instant with the following party. Mr. Burke, Wills, Bra, Patton, Macdonough, King Gray, Dost Mohamed, 15 horses and 16 camels, and Mr. Wright, who had kindly volunteered to show me a practicable route towards Coopers Creek, for a distance of a hundred miles from the Darling, and he has more than fulfilled his promise, for we have now travelled for upwards of 200 miles, generally through a fine sheep-gracing country, and we have not had any difficulty about water. As we fan creeks or waterholes, many of them having every appearance of permanent water, a distance that's never exceeding twenty miles. Mr. Wills' report herewith forwarded gives all the necessary details, although travelling at the rate of twenty miles a day, the horses and camels have all improved in condition, and the country improves as we go on. Yesterday from Wanamatiya to Paldramati Creek, we travelled over a splendid grazing country, and today we are encamped on a creek or swamp, the banks of which are very well grasped, and good feed all the way from our last camp, except for two miles, and here the ground was barren and swampy. Of course it is impossible for me to say what effect an unusually dry summer would produce throughout this country, or whether we are now travelling in an unusually favourable season or not. I describe things as I find them. Mr. Wright returns from here to Menindy. I informed him that I should consider him third officer of the expedition, subject to the approval of the committee, from the day of our departure from Menindy, and hope that they will confirm the appointment. In the meantime, I have instructed him to follow me up with the remainder of the camels to Cooper's Creek, and to take steps to procure a quantity of saltmeat, and I have written to the doctor—footnote, Dr. Beckler, end of footnote—to inform him that I have accepted his resignation, as although I was anxious to await the decision of the committee, the circumstances will not admit of delay, and he has positively refused to leave the settled districts. I am willing to admit that he did his best until his fears for the safety of the party overcame him, but those fears, I think, clearly show how unfit he is for his post. If Mr. Wright is allowed to follow out the instructions I have given him, I am confident that the result will be satisfactory, and if the committee think proper to make inquiries with regard to him, they will find that he is well qualified for the post, and that he bears the very highest character. I shall proceed on from here to Cooper's Creek. I may, or may not, be able to send back from there until we are followed up. Perhaps it would not be prudent to divide the party. The natives here have told Mr. Wright that we shall meet with opposition on our way there. Perhaps I might find it advisable to have a depot at Cooper's Creek, and to go on with a small party to examine the country beyond it. Under any circumstances it is desirable that we should be soon followed up. I consider myself very fortunate in having Mr. Wills as my second in command. He is a capital officer, zealous and untiring in the performance of his duties, and I trust that he will remain my second as long as I am in charge of the expedition. The men all conduct themselves admirably, and they are all most anxious to go on. But the committee may rely upon it that I shall go on speedily and carefully, and that I shall endeavour not to lose a chance or to run any unnecessary risk. I have, etc., signed R. O'Hara Burke, leader. P.S. The two blacks and four horses go back with Mr. Wright. The foregoing dispatch proves that Mr. Burke had been at some pains to make inquiries respecting the man he had nominated as third officer of the expedition. Mr. Wright had been for three years in charge of a cattle station on the river Darling, but had recently been thrown out of employment in consequence of a change of owners. He professed to have a knowledge of the country and did really display such knowledge. In addition to this he bore the very highest character, yet Mr. Burke has been blamed for trying to secure his services without a previous personal knowledge of him. And that, too, at a time when a pressing urgency had arisen for the appointment from the sudden resignations of Mr. Landl's and Dr. Beckler. Besides, the committee were aware of Mr. Wright's nomination on the 3rd December, and if they had any objection to it, might even then have replaced him by another person in sufficient time to save the lives of the explorers by forwarding relief, as so distinctly requested by Mr. Burke. He did all in his power to make the arrangements as complete as possible, and had his directions been attended to, it is probable that not a single life would have been lost on the expedition. His object was to push on while the wet weather lasted, and while his party preserved the vigor of health and strength. Had he waited, squandering his time until the approach of the warm season, he would have found the supply of water dried up in many places, and his progressing consequence impeded and protracted, while at the same time both men and beasts would have grown more and more exhausted and less able to perform their work. It is to the rapidity of Mr. Burke's progress that his ultimate success is due. The following extract from Mr. Wright's report, who started 100 days after his leader, nearly three months later than he should have done, will show how prudent Mr. Burke was in his calculations and how correct his views were. The route followed by Mr. Burke at the period of his transit abounded in water. The rapidity in which he progressed afforded no opportunity to the natives of forming hostile combinations, and the men under his charge preserved their health. But when I moved onwards from the Darling, the advance of summer had dried up nearly all the water-courses, and the ravages of scurvy reduced the effective strength of my party to an alarming extent. Mr. Wright, then having escorted the party as far as Taravoto, took leave of them there on the 31st of October, bringing back with him two blacks and four horses, and having first received and engaged to carry out the following instructions, to return to Menindee and bring up the stores as rapidly as possible to Cooper's Creek. In support of the fact that these instructions were plainly enough given, it may be said that the words themselves are taken from the evidence of the Honourable Dr. McAdam before the Royal Commission. And he afterwards adds that the committee considered that Mr. Wright would unquestionably have left immediately. There are states that Mr. Burke expected Wright at Cooper's Creek within two days from 16th December. McDonough states that Mr. Burke said to him on 15th December, I expect Mr. Wright up in a few days, a fortnight at Father's. I left him positive instructions to follow me. King states that on the 16th December, Mr. Burke told the party he then expected Mr. Wright daily. Wright himself states in his evidence, I gave Mr. Burke my word that I would take the remainder of the party out soon as I returned. In his first dispatch also to the committee, Wright says under date 19th December, I have the honour to inform you that pursuant to previous understanding with Mr. Burke, it was my intention to rejoin that gentleman with the members of the party and stores at present in this camp. And further on, as I have every reason to believe that Mr. Burke has pushed on from Cooper's Creek, relying upon finding the depot stores that that water caused upon his return, there is room for the most serious apprehensions as to the safety of himself and party, should he find that he has miscalculated. Yet this man with such a dreadful conviction on his mind could bear to fritter away his time from the 5th of November to the 26th of January, without doing a single thing towards actually performing imperative those simple duty with which he had been entrusted. Mr. Burke's arrangements seem to have been all that human foresight could suggest. In any reasonable person doubt that Mr. Wright knew perfectly well the exact nature of his instructions, and foresaw the disastrous consequences almost certain to ensue they should be disregarded. Chapter 6 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Reading by Magdalena Cook. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Chapter 6. Journey to Coopers Creek. Choice of the site for depot. Mr. Burke's first journey and return. Mr. Wills proceeds northward. Loss of three camels. Mr. Burke's final arrangements. Instructions to bra and dispatch to the committee at Melbourne. They were part of the way by three blacks who had been procured at Tarawoto that explorers found no difficulty in reaching Coopers Creek. A sort of inland lake or watercourse about 400 miles from Menendi. From the date of their leaving Melbourne they had been in the habit of numbering each stage or encampment, and these numbers by the time they arrived at the Darling had reached as far as 30. Tarawoto was numbered 35 and the spot at which they first struck Coopers Creek. On the 11th November was marked as Camp 57. They spelled, or rested, here one day and then resumed their journey along the creek. Occasionally resting two days at a time during which intervals Mr. Wills went out to feel the way before starting again. They formed their first depot at Camp 63, remaining there a fortnight. From this place Mr. Burke made a short trip northward with bra, but not finding any water away from the creek they were obliged to return the second day. Mr. Wills and McDonough then went out taking three camels with them and travelled northerly for nearly 90 miles without finding water. On the third day they began to return. But on encamping that night the camels unfortunately strayed away and were lost. Mr. Wills speaks of the occurrence in the following extract from a letter to his sister. Coopers Creek, December 11, 1860. My dear Bessie, this will probably be the last opportunity I shall have to write to you before I return, and I will take the opportunity to do so. You must excuse this being written in pencil. It is troublesome writing in ink. It dries up so confoundly fast. I enclose some seeds from the Australian desert. Tell Mama she must excuse me writing her. She must read this and fancy it as hers also. I have not even time to write to my father. The journey has hitherto been but as a picnic party. But I fear we shall have some heavier work soon. I have had a slight specimen of it lately. I went out for a few days to explore the country to the northeast, accompanied by one man and three camels. I had left the man in charge of the camels while I went to make some observations. When I returned I found the man had allowed the camels to stray. I tracked them for some distance, but found they had gone homeward. There is nothing for it but to walk back. So we started at 7 a.m. the next day. After walking about 10 miles, we fortunately found some water, and we continued on until 11 a.m. We then rested as it is trying to travel with the heat at 130 degrees in the sun and 112 degrees in the shade. We walked 80 miles in less than 50 hours, including stoppages. It is astonishing how a walk like this gives one a relish for a drink of water. For water such as you would not even taste, one smacks their lips as if it were a glass of sherry or champagne. We had but half a pint between us for the last 12 miles. We have no idea of being out for three years as I supposed. I calculate on being in Melbourne in August at farthest. The following is McDonald's account of the loss of camels. When we came to the camp that evening, the moon was rising, and Mr. Wills wanted to take an observation. I went to let out the camels. They were very much done up and not inclined to feed. We were almost without water at the time. We had some in bags, but they were leaking, and when Mr. Wills was taking the observations, I let out the camels and returned to cook our supper. Then Mr. Wills and I sat down to supper. I noticed the camels going into the scrub. I went and brought them back to within about 30 yards of our camp. They were not hobbled. Mr. Landos had left the hobbles and said they were no use to them. Footnote, this seems incorrect, for hobbles appear to have been subsequently used by the party. End of footnote. In about 10 minutes, I went to look after the camels. It was then dark. I could not find them, so called Mr. Wills and we went in search of them. We searched until 12 o'clock at night and could get no trace of them. We returned to camp. Mr. Wills laid down and had a short sleep, desiring me to call him at two o'clock in the morning and to make a few Johnny cakes. He said, if we do not find the camels and do not get back, we are lost. In the morning, we went to a rise about 15 miles off, which we reached a short time before day, thinking that we might see the camels coming down the valley. Mr. Wills looked through his opera glass, but could see nothing of them. We walked back to our camp. We had a little bread and water. We did not like to light a fire for fear of the blacks, so we made up our swag, footnote or burdens. End of footnote. I had a large colts revolver and 35 pints of water in a goat skin bag. Mr. Wills had three or four Johnny cakes, a trenches revolver and a pocket compass. We proceeded towards Cooper's Creek and in about seven or eight miles found a small pool of stagnant water from which we drank a great deal and filled the goat skin bag. We then proceeded walking eight hours and resting four until we reached the creek. The last night we camped, we had no water as the bag leaked, and Mr. Wills and myself were very much done up in consequence of carrying it. After this, Mr. Wills was obliged to go back with King to recover the saddles and other things that were left when the camels strayed away. Meanwhile, the depot was removed two stages further on to Camp 65 in order to avoid the ravages of large rats which infested the first depot, making sad havoc among the stores. Early in December, Mr. Burke made arrangements to solve the problem of crossing the continent from sea to sea by proceeding to the Gulf of Carpentaria on the northern coast. To increase their stock of provisions, a horse was killed and the meat jerked. That is to say deprived of bone and fat and dried in the sun. Subsequently to this, another of the horses broke his leg and was shot, the flesh being added to the quantity previously dried. Mr. Burke then formed the following advance, exploring party, R. O. H. Burke, leader, W. J. Wills, John King, Charles Gray, six camels, one horse. Patton, MacDonald, Dost Mohamed, six camels, 12 horses, and the remainder of the provisions were left behind in charge of Bra. With instructions to remain at Cooper's Creek until the return of Mr. Burke's party. Or until the provisions should run short and not to leave unless from absolute necessity. The following is the dispatch written to the committee at this time and left with Bra to be forwarded by the first opportunity. Cooper's Creek, December 13, 10 o'clock. Sir, I have the honour to report that the expedition under my command left Tarrewota on 31st of October and arrived at Cooper's Creek on the 11th November. Men, horses, and camels well. The road from Tarrewota to Wright's Creek is good, but from Wright's Creek to the point where we struck Cooper's Creek, it is in some places very stony, although not by any means impracticable. From the 11th of November, we travelled slowly down the creek until the 20th of November in order to recruit the strength of the animals. On the 20th, we arrived at what I conceived to be an eligible spot for the depot and we remained there, Camp 63, until the 5th instant. When we were driven out by the rats and obliged to remove lower down to the place from whence I now ride, Camp 65, and where I have permanently established the depot. The feed upon this creek is good and the horses and camels have greatly improved in condition, but the flyers, mosquitoes, and rats which are bound here render a very disagreeable summer residence. From Camp 63, we made very frequent excursions in order to endeavour in accordance with instructions to find a practicable route northward between Gregory's and Stuart's tracks, but without success. Mr. Wills, upon one occasion, travelled 90 miles to the north without finding water. When his camels escaped and he and the man who accompanied him were obliged to return on foot, which they accomplished in 48 hours. Fortunately, upon their return, they found a pool of water. The three camels have not yet been recovered. I am satisfied that a practicable route cannot be established in that direction, except during the rainy season, or by sinking wells, as the natives have evidently lately abandoned that part of the country for want of water, which is shown by their having sunk for water in all directions in the beds of the creeks. I also think that it would be very desirable to establish the route to Cooper's Creek and from Cooper's Creek to the north, farther to the westward, as the eastern or upper part of the creek, up to Camp 63, runs through earthy plains, which even now, arid in fine weather, are very difficult to travel over. But in winter or during wet weather, they must be quite impassable for horses and cattle. I have therefore left instructions for the officers in charge of the party, which I expect will shortly arrive here to endeavour during my absence to find a better and shorter route between the depot, Camp 65, and Wright's Creek, or between the depot and the Darling. I proceed on tomorrow with the party to Ears Creek. Footnote, Burke, Wills, King, Gray, six camels, and one horse. End of footnote. And from thence, I shall endeavour to explore the country to the north of it in the direction of Carpentaria. And it is my intention to return here within the next three months at latest. I shall leave the party which remain here under the charge of Mr. Brar, in whom I have every confidence. The feed is very good. There is no danger to be apprehended from the natives if they are properly managed. And there is therefore nothing to prevent the party remaining here until our return, or until the provisions run short. I did not intend to start so soon, but we have had some severe thunderstorms lately with every appearance of heavy fall of rain to the north. And as I have given the other route a fair trial, I do not wish to lose so favourable an opportunity. We are all in good health, and the conduct of the men have been admirable. Mr. Wills co-operates cordially with me. He is the most cellist and efficient officer. I have promoted Mr. Brar to the rank of officer. The position he is now placed in rendered at absolutely necessary that I should do so. He is well qualified for the post, and I hope the committee will confirm the appointment. I have given instructions to Mr. Brar to forward this letter by the first opportunity. I have, etc., R. O'Hara Burke, Leader. End of Chapter 6. Chapter 7 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Magda Lena Cook. Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. By Andrew Jackson. Chapter 7. The written records of the expedition, diary kept jointly by Mr. Burke and Wills, surveyors' report on the country lying between Tiravoto and Coopers Creek. It now becomes necessary to advert to the written records left by the exploring party. These were kept in the handwriting of Mr. Wills, who devoted part of every evening to the compilation of a diary in which the proceedings of the day were entered and read over to Mr. Burke, who made any additions or alterations he thought advisable. Mr. Wills also, in his capacity of surveyor, furnished to his leader for the information of the committee, a detailed account of the country through which they passed. The paper referring to that part of Australia lying between Tiravoto and Coopers Creek is here given and will be found a most interesting document full of valuable information and useful as being explanatory of many allusions made in the diaries which follow hereafter. The accompanying mat will show the course taken by the expedition as marked in the tracing referred to by Mr. Wills. Surveyers' report. Camp 65, Depot Coopers Creek, December 15, 1860. Sir, I have the honour to place in the hands of our leader for transmission to the committee my third report and a tracing show in the country traversed since my last was written. I regret that I have been unable to devote so much attention to either as I could have desired, but I have no doubt that the committee will make due allowance for my want of time and the inconvenience as attending the execution of such work in our present position. I have, et cetera, William J. Wills, Surveyor Assistant Observer, the Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee. Forwarded, Depot December 16, 1860. As Mr. Wills' report, with which I fully concur, contains all the necessary details with regard to the state of the country through which we passed. I have not referred to the subject in mind. The Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee are Ahara Burke, leader. Surveyers' report. The accompanying tracing will show the course taken by the expedition party from the Toro Oto Swamp. In latitude, 30 degrees, one minute, 30 seconds, south. Longitude, 142 degrees, 36 minutes, east. To the Depot on Cooper's Creep, Camp 65. Latitude, 27 degrees, 37 minutes, eight seconds, south. Longitude, 141 degrees, six minutes, east. Water supply between Toro Oto and Wright's Creek. The country traversed to the north of the Toro Oto Swamp and lying between that place in Wright's Creek is neither so well grasped nor watered as that to the south of the swamp. The land falls considerably as far as Kangapundi and a great extent of it is subject to inundation. Nearly all the water met with was thick and muddy. It was obtained from small clay pans most of which would probably be dry in three weeks. This applies to all the places at which we found water with the exception of Kenilta, Kangapundi and the four waterholes to the south of Wright's Creek. Kenilta. Kenilta is a waterhole of good clear water in a small rocky creek which runs out on the low mud flats and swampy ground lying between Altolka and Tonga Woko. It is situated in latitude 29 degrees, 26 minutes, 42 seconds, south. Longitude, 142 degrees, 40 minutes, east. By account, nearly a mile from the northwest and most point of the swampy ground. This point may be distinguished by the growth of a coarse kind of reedy grass which does not make its appearance on the southern portion of the swamp or lake. The water in the hole was only two or three feet deep but it is well shaded by box trees and will probably last two or three months. The temperature of the surface of the water at 7 a.m. November 2nd was 60.5 degrees, that of the air being at the same time 60 degrees. The Kangapundi swamp. The Kangapundi swamp is an extensive tract of low clay land which bears the appearance as regards to the vegetation on its banks of having a tolerably permanent supply of water. But unless some portions of the swamp are much deeper than where we passed, the water could not last throughout a dry season. The banks of the swamp are densely clothed with grasses, marshmallows, polygonal bushes and shrubs which shelter numerous kinds of water, fowl and snakes. Character of land. It will be seen by the tracing that a large proportion of the land between Tarawota and Rites Creek is composed of low mud plains and clay flats subject to inundation. Most of these are devoid of vegetation of any kind and others carry some stunted salt bushes and coarse grasses which appear to be struggling between life and death. Bounding the mud flats are generally some stony rices well-grasped and sometimes lightly timbered. The more elevated plains are sandy and support a fine supply of healthy salt bushes as well as here and there are few grasses. On the rices to the south southeast off Canilta may be seen great quantities of quartz rocks forming dikes in the sky's rices. The latter in some places are joined and run into hills of loose stone having the appearance of ingerated clay. From Kangapundi to Rites Creek the ground is light-colored and of a clayy nature. It forms a series of dry clay pans separated from one another by low sandy banks on which the vegetation was fresh and green. At about 17 miles from the former place are three large holes with water from two to three feet deep in the deepest part and at six miles further on another large one which might almost be termed a lake being nearly 1,000 links square. About these were some lines of sandhills running about north-east and south-west and in one of the flats between the sandhills I found several pieces of satin sparring lumps the size of one's hand partially buried in the ground and all of them with a plain of cleavage nearly perpendicular to the surface of the ground. Belu or Rites Creek? The lower portion of Rites Creek called by the natives Belu is situated in latitude 28 degrees, 48 minutes south and longitude 142 degrees, 53 minutes east by account. At this point the creek after breaking into several small channels runs out on a grassy plain. The water continuing in a southerly direction probably until it meets that from the Torrens and other creeks at the Kangapundi Swamp. There was plenty of water in this part of the creek when we passed but I cannot speak to its permanence. The banks are well lined with box timber as well as with marshmallows and wild spinach. The land on either side consists of well grass sandy rices. At four or five miles above this the creek is a narrow dry sandy watercourse winding through a grassy valley which everywhere presents indications of the most violent floods. Beyond this is an extensive grassy plain and for three or four miles scarcely a trace of the creek could be seen. We then came to a clump of trees amongst which were two large waterholes surrounded by polygons and bushes and containing great numbers of small fish. These holes appear to be permanent. We found about 60 blacks camped here above the waterholes which are together about half a mile long. The creek again disappears on the plain. The land for the next 10 or 12 miles in a north-northeast direction is very fine for pastoral purposes being alternately grassy plains and sand ridges. At 12 or 13 miles we cross the creek where it has cut for itself a deep narrow channel the banks of which are densely timbered and well-grast but the waterholes are small and contained very little water. For a distance of six miles the creek is of a very insignificant character. It appears to be divided into several branches which traverse clay flats badly grassed. Here and there are some lines of low sandy rices with plenty of feed on them. All the water courses are distinctly marked by lines of boxed timber. At about nine miles from where we cross the creek and after traversing some loose polygon in ground which was covered with mussel shells and a shell resembling a periwinkle. We came to a branch of the creek containing a splendid waterhole 150 links broad and about half a mile long. A little above this the creek again disappears for a short distance and then there is a long narrow channel of undoubtedly permanent water being nearly four feet deep in the shallower's places. It is only on an average about 50 links broad and well sheltered by overhanging boxed trees. The temperature of the water on the morning of the 7th of November at six o'clock was 68 degrees. The temperature of the air at the same time being 50.5 degrees. Our camp at this place is indicated by boxed tree marked B over 52 in square. The geographical position of which is by account 28 degrees, 26 minutes, nine seconds, south latitude and longitude 143 degrees east. In proceeding from here in a north-northeasterly direction up the course of the creek or rather off the water for the creek is again lost on the plains for five or six miles. We pass the southernmost point of a prominent sandstone range, the nearest portion of which lay about a mile and a half to the westward. At about nine miles we again touch the creek where it is about three chains broad. The banks are firm and shelving from 10 to 12 feet above the water and lined with boxed acacias, some large gums, gigantic marshmallows, polygonum, et cetera. In the creek there is abundance of fish and the ducks and other waterfowl are numberless. From what we have seen of the blacks I should say the population cannot be far short of 150 and it might be considerably more. From here we proceeded in a east northeasterly direction along the west bank of this fine waterhole and at two and a half miles found it begin rapidly to decrease in breadth and a little further on there was nothing but a few small stony water courses traversing a dense box forest. At this point there is a level bed of sandstone pebbles close to and over a part of which the creek flows. The blacks have here gone to the trouble of making paths for themselves along which we turned off from the creek on a north northeasterly course and at about three miles coming on earthy plains with no signs of water ahead we again turned into the creek and came to the small waterhole. From here the line of river timber continues in a northeasterly direction. To the west and north northwest is a line of sandstone rangers running off in the same direction. The land in the immediate vicinity of the creek on the west side is very poorly grassed all the way up from where we crossed it that on the east side appeared to be better. I think there can scarcely be a doubt but what this creek is the lower portion of the Warago River although I believe that its main supply of water is obtained from the adjoining rangers which send down innumerable creeks into the flats through which it flows. Some latitude observations at Camp 53 the farthest point to which we traced the creek placed us in 28°16″40″S our latitude by account being 28°17″18″ and longitude 143°18″E On Thursday 8th November we left Wrights Creek with the intention of crossing the rangers to Cooper's Creek. We found the land as we approached the hills well-grast and in some places densely timbered. It is intersected by numerous watercourses with deep-sanded channels in most of which there seemed little chance of finding water. We camped at a waterhole in McDonough's Creek. The spot is indicated by a gum tree marked B over 54 within square. Derince's Tracks Near here we found the Tracks of Drays. There were four distinct tracks two of which appeared to be those of heavy horse drays. The other two might have been made by light ones or spring carts. We were unable to make out the tracks of the horses or cattle. I cannot imagine what tracks these are unless they may be those of Derince who I believe had some drays with him and reported that he had been somewhere in this direction. From Camp 54 to Camp 55 we were obliged to take a very circuitous route on account of the rugged and stony nature of the rangers which were more extensive than we had anticipated. They stretch away far to the north and north-northwest. And although we kept well out of the northwest we were unable to avoid the low stony rises which adjoined them. On the northwest side of the hills we crossed two dry creeks which flow in a north-northeasterly direction. Their banks were thinly lined with box trees and the holes in them were quite dry. From this we took a west-north-westerly course across undulating country covered with sandstone quartz and magnetic ironstone pebbles so densely and firmly set together in some places as to have the appearance of an old-fashioned pavement. At about three miles we had to change our course to northwest to avoid a spur of the high range on our left. At two miles further we came to a grassy flat through which ran a fine-looking creek but the bed was sandy and quite dry. There were, however, a good many small birds about here which would indicate that there must be water in the neighbourhood. We here again changed our course to west-northwest and at six miles came to a dry stone creek having travelled about 28 miles over the worst ground that we had yet met with. On the morning of the 10th we continued on a west-northwesterly course across stony ground of the same nature as that past during the previous day but at a distance of five miles we turned west quarterly south as the ranges appeared to be as low in that direction as in any other and as they ran nearly north-northwest there seemed a chance of sooner getting out of them which we did at a distance of about eight miles more. From the point at which we emerged from these ranges the view was as follows. From southwest nearly up to northwest were extensive plains as far as the eye could reach intersected by numerous lines of timber the general direction of which was about north-northwest. Several columns of smoke were visible along these lines some of which had the appearance of camp and others bushfires. From northwest to north were lines of ranges running in a northwesterly direction and in the valley between us and the first spur was the fine-liner timber indicating the course of what appeared to be a large creek probably the recipient of all the small creeks that we had crossed during the morning. In every other direction there was nothing to be seen but timbered sandstone ranges. At noon we crossed a small creek running nearly north the grass had been burnt on its banks about half a mile beyond it was another creek of a more promising appearance and as we approached it we saw several crows as well as other birds in the trees. We here found a small hole with the water fast drying up it contained a lot of young fish about half an inch long and just sufficient water to replenish our water bags and give the horses a drink. Below at the creek took a north-northwesterly course and was dry and sandy for a distance of two miles and a half at which point we found some large but shallow holes of milky looking water. On the plains near these holes we found large flocks of pigeons. The grass was very coarse and dry and the water would probably not last more than a few weeks. Horse tracks. On the plains to the east of the creek were the tracks of a single horse which had evidently crossed when the ground was very soft and gone in a southwesterly direction. Position of water. The waterholes are situated in latitude 27 degrees 51 minutes south, longitude 142 degrees 40 minutes east by account from Camp 55. From here a course of west half south took us in a distance of about 20 miles to Cooper's Creek which we first struck in latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes south, longitude 142 degrees 20 minutes east. The land through which we passed on the 11th was so low and wooded as to prevent me from seeing the direction of the ranges. The first five or six miles were tolerably open. We then came to a box forest where the soil was loose and earthy similar to polygonum ground. There were in every direction signs of heavy floods and frequent inundations. We crossed several small water courses in one of which there was a whole of rather creamy water at which we halted for an hour. From the waterhole we quite unexpectedly obtained a rather fine fish. About eight inches long of the same description as the young ones we had found at Brass Creek. Cooper's Creek. At the point at which we first struck Cooper's Creek it was rocky, sandy and dry. But about half a mile further down we came to some good waterholes where the bed of the creek was very boggy and the banks richly grass with kangaroo and other grasses. The general course is a little north or west but it winds about very much between highest sand hills. The waterholes are not large but deep and well shaded both by the steep banks and the numerous box trees surrounding them. The logs and bushes high up in the forks of the trees tell of the destructive floods to which this part of the country has been subjected and that at no very distant period as may be seen by the flood marks on the trees of not more than five or six years growth. From Camp 57 we traced the creek in a west northwestly direction about six miles. It then runs out among the sand hills, the water flowing by various small channels in a southwestly direction. The main channel however continues nearly south until it is lost on an extensive earthy plain covered with marshmallows and chrysanthemums. Creek. In one of the valleys between the sand hills at a distance of about 10 miles in a southwestly direction we found a shallow waterhole where a creek is formed for a short distance and is then lost again on the earthy plain beyond. West by north and west from here about 12 miles there are some splendid sheets of water. In some places two and three chains broad. The banks are well timbered but the land in the neighbourhood is so loose and rotten that one can scarcely ride over it. I expect this is the reason why we saw no blacks about here for it must be worse for them to walk over than the stony ground. From Camp 60 the general course of the creek is northwest but it frequently disappears on the earthy plains for several miles and then forms into waterholes again finer than before. At our first depot Camp 63 in latitude 27 degrees 36 minutes 15 seconds south longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes east there is a fine hole about a mile long and on an average one chain and a half broad. It exceeds five feet in depth everywhere that I tried it except within three or four feet of the bank. Two or three miles above this camp we saw the first melliburus growing around the waterholes some of them as large as moderate size gum tree. Earthy flat. The feed in the vicinity of Camp 63 is unexceptionable both for horses and camels but the herbage on the creek generally down to this point is of a very inferior quality. The grasses are very coarse and bear a very small proportion to the other plants. By far the chief portion of the herbage consists of chrysanthemums and marshmallows the former to judge from their dried up powdery state can contain very little nourishment although some of the horses and camels eat them with great relish. The latter I need hardly mention are at this time of the year merely withered sticks. A few small celsalaceous plants are to be found on some of the flats but they are scarcely worth mentioning. In some places where the bed of the creek is shallow and dry there is an abundance of good grass and rushes of several kinds. The polygonum bushes are also fresh and good in such places. Stony rices. The stony rices are generally bare and barren but some of those on the north side of the creek carry a fair crop of light grass. Sandhills. Wherever there are sandbanks or ridges the feed is almost invariably good. The salt bush is healthy and abundant and there are a variety of plants on which cattle would do well. For camels these hills are particularly well adapted for there is scarcely a plant grows on them that they will not eat with the exception of porcupine grass but there is very little of that until one gets many miles back from the creek. Character of ground. I have mentioned three distinct kinds of ground the earthy plains the stony rices and the sand ridges the latter which is by far the most agreeable whether for traveling on for feed or in respect to the freedom from flies ants mosquitoes and rats is simply a series of hills composed of blown sand of a red color very fine and so compactly set that the foot does not sink in at much. In some places the ridges have a uniform direction in others the hills are scattered about without any regularity. The average direction of the ridges is north northeast and south southwest. In the valleys between the hills are shallow clay pans in which the water rapidly collects. Even after slight showers but when full they seldom exceed five or six inches in depth so that in summer they are soon dry again. Stony rices. The stony ground in contra distinction to the sandstone ranges appear to have been formed from the detritus of the latter deposited in undulating beds of vast extent. The greater portion of this ground appears almost level when one is on it but when viewed from a distance the undulations are very distinct. The stones are chiefly waterworn pebbles of sandstone quartz and ironstone. In some places the rices approach more nearly to the nature of the sandstone ranges and here the stones are less waterworn and are mixed with large blocks of rock. I found the magnetic polarity to be very distinct in some of the ironstone pebbles on these rices. Earthy plains. The earthy plains which are such an important geological feature in this part of the country will I fear greatly interfere with its future occupation. When dry they are so intersected by chasm and cracks that it is in some places dangerous for animals to cross them and when wet they would be quite impassable. Cattle would perhaps do well of them for some time after an inundation and the ground might improve after having been stocked. The boggy nature of the banks of the creeks passing through this ground would be another impediment to settlers from the losses of cattle that it would sometimes entail. To give one idea of the danger in that respect I may mention that there are places where for a distance of two or three miles neither a bullock nor a horse could get to the water with safety and it was with difficulty that we could approach it ourselves. The safest spots are the lower ends of the waterhole where the creeks run out on the plains. A peculiar geological feature that I have never seen so strongly exhibited elsewhere is the water courses on these plains have a strong tendency to work away to the south and southwest the fall of the ground as shown by the flow of the floodwater being to the west and northwest. I found that almost every place where a portion of the creek ran out the small branches into which it split before disappearing struck off at nearly right angles to the creek and that the flow of the water on the level plain was invariably in a westerly or northwesterly direction whereas the creeks generally had a course considerably to the south of west more especially before running out. The branch creeks and waterholes are always lined with box trees and polygonal bushes. They are generally situated between or near sand hills and have doubtless been formed by the rush of water consequent on the interference of these hills with the general flow. In some places the direction of the sand ridges was the course of the creeks trending to the south wood but I allude to the tendency as exhibited on the open plain with no sand ridges near the creek. Country to the north of Camp 63, Coopers During our stay at Camp 63 from which spot we found it necessary to remove for several reasons but chiefly because the rats attacked our stores in such numbers that we could keep nothing from them unless by suspending it in the trees. Four excursions were made to the north of that place in search of a practical route to the gulf. The first attempt was made with horses which were soon knocked up from the strong nature of the ground and the want of water the others were made by camels by the help of which the country was well examined to a distance of nearly 90 miles. Water was found at two places at distances of about 70 and 73 miles north of the creek but it was fast drying up and would not last beyond Christmas. No blacks were seen but a column of smoke was observed to the north northeast at a distance of about 15 miles as ascertained by some bearings from the point at which we turn back. The chief portion of the land traverse consists of land dunes and flats of the same nature. The latter clothe with porcupine grass, the former with salt bushes, grasses and a variety of shrubs sometimes intermixed with mesembryanthymums and porcupine grass. The sandy ground is bounded on either side by sandstone rangers from which numerous small creeks flow east and west until they are lost in small flats and clay pans amongst the sandhills. Their course is marked by an occasion which is somewhat analogous in its general characteristics to the common wattle. A few are favoured with some box trees but we only found water in one. The whole country has the most deplorable arid appearance. Birds are very scarce, native dogs numerous. The paths of the blacks on the strong ground look as if they had not been used for many years. Antilles and beds are to be found everywhere in great numbers and of considerable size. The paths to and from them are better marked and more worn than any I have seen before, but nearly all of them are deserted and those that are inhabited contain a small and weakly population that seems to be fast dying away. Neither about the flats nor the rangers did we see any signs of the heavy floods that have left such distinct marks on other parts, and the appearance of the whole country gave me the idea of a place that had been subjected to a long continued drought. At the northernmost end of the eastern line of rangers and on the west side of them, in latitude 26 degrees 30 minutes south, longitude 141 degrees 40 minutes east, is a low detached line of range about seven miles from north to south. On passing inside this range at its southern extremity, one enters a flat bounded to the south by high red sand hills to the west and north by the low range, and running up to the north northeast until it reaches the main range. On the lower part of the flat there is no creek, but on proceeding up at a mile and a half there are three waterholes with a few bushes growing around them. The water was fast drying up when we were there. There were some ducks, snipe and pigeons about them. The former always returned to the holes after having been disturbed, so I imagine there is not much more water in the vicinity. In continuing up the flat the main creek appears to be that along which the box timber grows, but the bed is sandy and quite dry. By keeping off a little to the left at a mile above the waterholes one comes on the bed of another creek, with only here and there a gum tree and a few bushes. Up this creek at a distance of three miles nearly north from the three holes, and where the creek emerges from the rangers is a large hole well shaded by heavy box trees. It contained only a small quantity of water when we passed, but I fancy that in ordinary seasons the water would be permanent. This creek has been much frequented by blacks at one time, but not lately. Hundreds of hawks and a good many crows and magpies were in the trees near the waterhole. Geographical Position The geographical position of the three waterholes is by account from Cooper's Creek latitude 26 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 140 degrees 43 minutes east. Mediological Remarks It would be rather premature for me to offer any opinion on the climate of Cooper's Creek on so short a stay, and my other duties have prevented me from making any observations that would be worth forwarding in detail. I may mention however that neither on the creek nor during the journey up have we experienced any extreme temperatures. The heat although considerably greater here than in Melbourne as shown by a thermometer is not felt more severely by us. The maximum daily temperatures since our arrival on Cooper's Creek have generally exceeded 100 degrees. The highest of all was registered on November 27th at Camp 63 when the thermometer stood at 109 in the shade. There was at that time a strong wind from the north which felt rather warm, but had not the peculiar characteristics of a hot wind. One of the most noticeable features in the weather has been the well-marked regularity in the course of the wind, which almost invariably blew lightly from the east or southeast soon after sunrise, went gradually round to the north by two o'clock, sometimes blowing fresh from that quarter followed by the sun to west by sunset, and then died away all blue gently from south throughout the night. A sudden change took place yesterday, December 14th. The day had been unusually hot, temperature of air at one p.m. 106 degrees, at which time circum clouds began to cross the sky from northwest, and at 2 p.m. the wind sprung up in the southwest, blowing with great violence 4-6. It soon shifted to south, increasing in force to 7 and sometimes 8. It continued to blow from the same quarter all night and has not yet much abated, once during the night it lulled for about an hour, and then commenced again. It is now 4 p.m., blowing with a force of five from south by east, with a clear sky. Before the wind sprung up the sky had become overcast, and we were threatened with a thunderstorm. Rain was evidently falling in the west and northwest, but the sky partially cleared in the evening without our receiving any. Flashes of distant lightning were visible towards the north. During the night the thunderstorm from the north approached sufficiently near for thunder to be distinctly heard. The flashes of lightning were painfully brilliant, although so far away. The storm passed to the southeast without reaching us. The sky remained overcast until between 8 and 9 a.m., since when it has been quite clear. The temperature of air, which at sunrise was as low as 72 degrees, has reached a maximum of 92 degrees. It is at present 89 degrees, and that of the surface of the water in the creek 78 degrees. Two other thunderstorms have passed over since we have been on the creek, from only one of which we have received any rain worth mentioning. Mr. Bra, who remains here in charge of the depot, and from whom I have received great assistance, both in making meteorological observations and in the filling in of feature surveys, will keep a regular meteorological register. I have handed over to him for that purpose aneroid barometer, number 21,543, and fourth thermometers, two for dry and wet bulb observations, and the others for temperature of water, etc. With regard to hot winds, the direction of the sand ridges would seem to indicate a prevalence of east and west winds here rather than northerly. William J. Wills, Surveyor and Astronomical Observer, Coopers Creek, December 15, 1860. Wright's inactivity and disregard of Mr. Burke's instructions, his inability to account for his conduct. The advantage of attending to the rule of conduct lay down in the precept, act in the living present, was not unfortunately illustrated in the conduct of Mr. Wright, whose proceedings or rather want of proceedings will now be detailed. As has been mentioned, Mr. Wright returned to Menindee from Toronto with positive instructions. To follow Mr. Burke and bring up the remainder of the stores to Coopers Creek, the poet's advice, however, indicates what Mr. Wright ought to have done, and well would it have been for his future reputation, not to speak of his peace of mind. If, even at the eleventh hour, he had made an attempt to bring up the smallest quantity of provisions to save the lives of two of the bravest and most heroic men ever sacrificed by inexcusable apathy and neglect. Mr. Wright, with his promise to take out the remainder of the party as soon as he returned, still fresh upon his lips, reached Menindee on the fifth of November, 1860, and had he shown a tithe of the energy of his gallant chief, might have successfully performed all that was expected of him. He well knew, as has been already proved, that Mr. Burke depended entirely upon him for the means of keeping up a communication with the Darling and with Melbourne, and must have been aware of the fatal consequences almost certain to result to the advance party if he neglected the instructions he had received. Time was then most precious. Every day was of importance. He knew the nature of the country he had to pass, and the difficulty there was in going through at a later season. He knew that Mr. Burke had gone up at the very latest period when he could probably succeed, and yet from the fifth of November to the end of the following January he did absolutely nothing. On his arrival at Menindee Wright found the trooper named Lyons waiting with dispatchers for Mr. Burke, which contained information as to recent discoveries made by McDool Stewart, who had penetrated much farther into the interior than any previous explorer, their particulars of his progress having been forwarded by the Melbourne Committee for Mr. Burke's information. These dispatchers were, after a delay of five days, forwarded by the trooper who brought them, escorted by a native guide and accompanied by a man named MacPherson, who was required to shoe the horses at Cooper's Creek. On the way, however, they knocked up their horses, lost their road, and after travelling far beyond their destination only succeeded in being able to send back the native with news of their sad plight. But they were rescued from starvation by a party sent in search of them near the end of December. There was, however, nothing to prevent the reserve party on the Darling from being formed and pushed on to Cooper's Creek with at least a portion of the stores, and had Mr. Wright pay the lease regard to the positive instructions he had received he would at once have done this, and have made use of the post office that Menindee to forward information of his movements to the committee, who could then and would have backed him up in the same manner as they subsequently did, when, alas, it was too late. He, however, strange to say, wasted precious time in most shameful inactivity, making frequent trips to see his family who were living twenty-one miles off, suffering his party to spend their time uselessly in what one of the witnesses called knocking about, and allowing the precious days to slip unheeded by. While his unaccountable conduct was notoriously a matter of astonishment and comment to all the persons staying at Menindee at the time. Wright's excuses for having acted in this manner are none of them satisfactory, and they all appear to have originated in the man's excessive timidity and want of energy. The slightest difficulty overcame him. He was, in fact, that great object of contempt to the other sex, a coward. He seems to have feared everything. He feared that his appointment might not be confirmed by the committee, that the animals he had, nine camels and seven horses, would not be able to carry up a really serviceable quantity of provisions. He feared that his wife and family, who were staying at the station he had lately been in charge of, would not get safely and comfortably to Adelaide, whether he wished to send them. When at last, after unheard of delays, he did make an attempt to proceed. He was still haunted by the same wretched faint-heartedness. He became afraid of the blacks, or that some of his men might die, although he could hardly have expected that an expedition of the kind could be carried on without some casualties. To make omelettes one must break eggs. And Englishmen are seldom accustomed to set an undue value on their lives when employed on a service of difficulty and danger. But this would perhaps excite nothing beyond a feeling of pity for the man. Were it not that Wright's prevarication before the Royal Commission compelled the gentleman who composed it to dismiss him from their presence with disgrace, as the person who had contradicted his own assertions, and rendered himself unworthy of belief? He stated that he had written a letter on his return from Turavoto to Menindy, forwarding Mr Burke's dispatch of 29 October, and requesting that his appointment as third officer of the expedition might be confirmed. But this letter, if written at all, never reached the committee, and he had kept no copy of it. He stated that he wrote it himself, although all other papers forwarded by him were invariably written by another person in consequence of his imperfect education, and as his excuse of waiting for the confirmation of his appointment appears by evidence to have been an afterthought. Footnote, Royal Commission, Questions 1638 and 1802. End of footnote. And was not put forward until nearly two months subsequently to his reaching Menindy from Turavoto. It may well be doubted whether his story of having written such a letter can be received with any degree of confidence. Certain it is that in other respects it is impossible to believe his statements, for in his first dispatch to the committee dated 19 December 1860, he says, I delayed starting merely because the camels left behind by Mr Burke were too few in number, and too inferior in carrying powers to carry out a really serviceable quantity of provisions. Yet in his examination before the commissioners he stated that his principal reason was not that, but that he was waiting for the confirmation of his appointment. And on being pressed on more than one occasion to say how he reconciled these two statements, he was unable satisfactorily to do so. The last two questions put to him were answered as follows. Question 1702. Then it is to be presumed that the commission may consider that you have no answer to make to reconcile the statement in this dispatch with your garbled statement made to the committee? Answer. I have no particular answer to make to that question. Question 1703. It should be pointed out to you that unless you can answer that question satisfactorily, you stand in an awkward position before this commission. No answer. The witness withdrew. In fact, Wright was guilty of flagrant and most culpable neglect of Mr Burke's instructions, for he never at any time forwarded the smallest quantity of provisions or clothing to Cooper's Creek, although the stores at his command were abundant, and sufficient means of transport quiet within his reach. Even when he reached the placing company with Brar on the 8th of May 1861, both men being mounted and having a spare-packed horse with them at the time, he did not bring even a morsel of bread or a cup of cold water to help the poor sufferers then pining away for lack of food in the wilderness in the very hour of their victory. Of the grave responsibility resting upon him it is needless to say another word here. End of Chapter 8