 I had a huge load of monitors get delivered to my shop this week. And these weren't mine. They're not for sale. These were actually a client of mine. His name is Adrian. And he was, again, nice enough to bring in six CRTs, all professional models that need to have different levels of service work done to each one of them. So here they are. They came in. And I haven't even unpacked. Again, he brought these. He did not ship them. But even when he brought them himself, he made sure to pack them with some protection. Because, again, traveling with six CRTs is quite a bit. But the big surprise here is we got some ikigamis in the shop. That's right. They're not very common around my area. And I've only had the opportunity to work on one other one before this. And that was an 87 model. He brought in 220s. So we'll get to look at those. And then there's a nice little 5-inch Sony PVM that he brought in to be serviced. But today we're going to focus on this one. It's the TM14-19R Color CRT Video Monitor. And this is a broadcast style monitor from the very early 90s, late 80s. So of course, it does not have any type of built-in service menu to service it. So that would require us to get inside of it internally and make our adjustments most likely on a deflection board of some sort inside of this monitor. So again, here's a look at this serial number on here. This, again, does take 100 up to 240 volts. So it can be used in other regions. Just a quick look at what the screen looks like currently. And before I even make a single adjustment, to be honest with you, it looks pretty darn good. There's not really any issues with convergence or pin cushion settings in the corners as much a little bit. But we can get in here. And even before we make any adjustments, it's always nice to go in and see what you're starting with and just record that data. So you can see we've got some issues with our vertical centerness on our screen. And even our horizontal sizing could use some adjusting. And our vertical size could use some adjusting. But overall, the linearity is very good. Still a very sharp monitor for being 30 years old at this point. And everything seems to be functioning properly. And we definitely have all our colors. And that's a very good sign on a tube that's old. Because if one of the colors is out, it's very difficult, especially if you need a new tube to get a replacement at this point. So we've got a good tube to work with. We're going to start by disassembling this BVM. And thankfully, it is extremely, well, I keep calling it a BVM, OK? It's not the BVM. It's obviously Ikegami. But it's modular. So you get inside, and you'll notice there's a lot of modular PCBs in here, where everything's kind of built out on its own. But tons of dust, of course. This is just a very common thing you'll notice when something hasn't been opened or serviced in a while. You get a big, thick layer of dust built up on some of these PCBs. And the last one with the big capacitors there was the actual power supply board. Now, to get to the deflection board on this BVM, I have to take off this side shield. And then here is our deflection PCB. Lots of electrolytic capacitors, you'll notice. And then we'll get a closer look in here. You'll see some potentiometers that are going to help us with our adjustments. But this is deflection board P8803J, a proprietary PCB for Ikegami. And it, again, controlled all the deflection on this CRT. And if you notice the design of this, there are a lot of ICs towards the back. So a lot of the heat was dissipated towards the back end. But obviously, we're going to start off by cleaning this CRT's PCBs extremely well. We want to get in there and knock a lot of this dust off these components and make sure that none of them have been compromised. They all look pretty good considering, again, their age. And so Adrian actually did not want to do any cap work on this monitor as of yet. And I don't blame him. Again, if it works fine and you don't want to invest a huge amount of money into it at the time, it's fine to go in and clean them and try to adjust them if you don't ultimately plan on doing a cap kit, or at least not for the time being. So we're going to get in there and knock the dust off of the yoke and the tube. And just look at how much dust is coming off that power supply unit. So I'm using a paintbrush, very clean. And it's definitely non-conductive. The Brussels are not conductive. And I just find it to be really effective for cleaning and knocking dust off. And again, we want to get that dust out of there so that it doesn't act as an insulator for heat on our circuit boards and cause our components to fail and add extra stress to them. Excuse me. We're also going to clean the front side of the monitor. With the brush, again, something that I always like to do is that gets in these crevices excellently. The brush does. So knock a lot of that stuff out before you use any solvent or water, liquidish cleaner on here. Make sure you knock a lot of that out so it doesn't gum up in the corners. And it's also a good idea to go in after you've knocked all this dust off and use some kind of compressed air to get rid of the dust after you've made it loose with your brush. So here's a quick look at the tube. And I did find a slight screen burn square here. It's very difficult to notice. But you can pause it and probably see a cube shadow area in this portion of the tube. And that's where it's just had a test signal put into it for too long, probably in the broadcast environment. And that cube has burned into the glass. It's not completely noticeable when you're using it. But that's something you're never going to get rid of. So go in there, clean the bezel really nice. And you'll notice that ikigami features like a cast iron bezel. So their bezel does not have plastic on it other than the buttons and the button housing. So it's very durable. And then I just went out here and used a scrub, a little scrub sponge and some dish soap and cleaned off all the panels. Got all that gunk out of the air vent holes. And then I set these panels out to dry after I cleaned them in the sun. So they've got a nicely cleaned up shell for the monitor once we get done cleaning the inside of it. All right, here's our CRT. And it's gotten most of the dust brushed off of it. You get a little bit better light in here. And we can take a look at some of the internal components. Again, there's the yoke. And then the flyback is up there towards the back. It's actually like a two-part flyback. It's kind of interesting ikigami style. So I'll just use our air compressor now to finally blow out all the remaining dust and dirt from inside and then just work my way from the top to the bottom. And then get on the outside of the unit and blow a lot of that extra dust off and get it all out of there, give it a nice, good cleaning. One thing you will notice about these older module and PCBs on these boards is they're just loaded with electrolytic capacitors. So you can definitely go in and inspect it closely to make sure none of them are bulging or leaking, even if you're just doing a visual inspection. Now, if you go in here and use these potentiometers and there is a control that does not adjust or doesn't work on the screen, then most likely the capacitor that's right around it or in the circuit line has gone bad and failed. So you might wanna consider replacing that capacitor specifically. But otherwise, the way you wanna approach this is you either wanna probably replace the majority of these or pretty much replace none of them unless some of them fail. Because it's gonna be really difficult to tell which ones specifically would cause issues on a rarer, less-used monitor like the Icogami. It's compared to like Sony's where we have a lot of documented information on them. But you can tell that Icogami definitely put a lot of work into designing these boards. They wanted, I mean, the whole monitor is supposed to be competitive with the Sony broadcast lines. Now, personally, I still am a bigger fan of Sony's, but it's always nice to see other companies' designs and how they went about with their design styles compared to Sony. And you'll notice here, this is exactly like a BVM would be where they'd have the large heat sink on the back. So you gotta be aware of, if you're using a broadcast style monitor, there's always a heat sink on the back of them that can get really hot. So here's a bunch of the potentiometers on the other side, the other boards that controls most of your color stuff and your filtering that might be going on if you're using component or S-video or composites, then there will be different filters and things you can use on the screen to improve sharpness, change the color formats almost. So that's just how you do it on that other board. All right, here we go. Safety alert, safety alert. We're about to do a CRT discharge. Now you're gonna watch me discharge this. I did add a nice little alligator clip to my discharge tool, but please note, there's nothing else in the line of this discharge tool. It is just an insulated cable tacked on to a screwdriver here. Now the first thing you'll notice is I'm not discharging it till after I pull the anode cap. I only recommend doing that on higher end monitors, but you wanna do that because if you just go in and press the end of that screwdriver in that hole, you could damage the back of the glass tube and scratch it up. So that's why they say to try to pull that anode cap out. Of course, I don't recommend that you do this unless you're extremely, you know, knowledge on it and you know what you're doing. I just wanted to show you how I did it here. And you'll notice too that it's very dry under that cap. I mean, that dielectric grease has nearly disappeared that was originally inside there. So it's something that I wanted to add extra. So what we're gonna do here now is just add some additional dielectric grease on the back of this tube and that lube will hopefully extend the life of the flyback, especially at the anode cap, but it's also gonna limit any kind of dust. It's gonna eliminate that from getting under that cap and causing any kind of crackles or pops when you fire it up and you have that flyback going. If there's, if you notice on your CRT and you have sounds where it sounds like a little crackles when you fire the flyback up, then it's most likely got dust under that cap. And it's a good idea to get some dielectric grease and rub it on those components to protect it. And like I said, extends the life, but it also extends or improves the performance of your CRT when you add that dielectric grease to both the back of the tube and then you can apply it to the cap on the inside. And then we'll get the cap back in place and secure it nicely on the back of that tube so that we won't have any issues with the flyback. Now, most of these flybacks are built with two different little prongs in them, at least the anode cap part is. So you push that together and then as you squeeze it, put one side into the back of the tube and squeeze it together and then let them go and they expand and then set inside that little metal ring there so you're, you know, you have your continuity but it also holds it in place. So here we go, here's our test run after we've cleaned up and applied our new grease. Now we're gonna need to make some adjustments but still the screen looks and works really well. So the adjustments I told you before are all gonna be done by hand through potentiometers on that deflection board. And so you just wanna try to use those potentiometers to get the best look in screen you can. Again, we're just gonna be concentrating mostly on this vertical adjustment more than the others because the other adjustments all seem to be pretty good and it's all held well together for 30 years and just a couple of turns on those potentiometers and you're good to go. I like to check a few other test screens before we go now. I do recommend you check out some scroll testing. There's a nice 240p test suite scroll that does with the Sonic screen but there's also other video games you can use to do things like vertically scrolls. Castlevania III is a good one on the regular Nintendo. And here we have it fully reassembled. I just went back and put all the cleaned up boards back on here and we've finished making all our little adjustments and now the monitor is ready to go back and be put to use by Adrian and looks really good here. We're gonna take a quick second to check out some gameplay footage. But this is something that most people can do to any CRT is you can get inside the back of it and clean out the dust, make a couple of adjustments even if you don't have the capability to do a capacitor replacement. Your cap still could be good enough to where you could get it looking really nice without it. I mean, I don't think that again, a capacitor kit would improve the screen too much on this one, I could be wrong. But again, you're always gonna be limited by the tube and the flyback no matter what anyway. So once you get into those older monitors, it's always worth considering is, do you really wanna invest all the extra time and money into a capacitor replacement? Which, again, that's just one of those questions. Do you wanna do it or do you just wanna clean it and adjust it? But either way, you can make that CRT last long and look great when you're using it, especially for 240p. I'm Steve, thanks again for watching everybody. I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.