 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. Alright guys, so we're working on a little freezer here. Let's get in here and see what we've got going on. So what's happening is the evaporator here is freezing up and dripping on the sides. I think what it's doing is going in too long of a defrost. I am wondering if by chance we don't have a defrost termination switch that's hooked up or working properly. So we're going to do... Let's get in here and see if it has one. Which we do have one. You can see it right there. A lot of times things don't get set up right. You can see the end is red. It comes in on there. It goes out on black and hooks to the F so that's your fan delay. Red is your common. Brown is your termination. So red should be going to end. Black should be going to the fan. That's your time delay and then brown should be your termination. So when it gets warm, it breaks the fan and it terminates the defrost. And then as it gets colder, it delays and then finally makes and then brings on the fan. So brown should be going to X. So make sure that's in the right spot. It is there. It's on a blue wire. Blue wire is hooked up. So we need to go up on the roof and make sure... I chances are what we're going to do. So we're just going to change that switch. Now you do have a limit switch which is at yellow and white. So it leaps through that and that's what keeps the heaters in the circuit as long as it's not too hot. Let's go up here and see what we can find. Okay. There's your problem. X is not terminating because it's unhooked for whatever reason. And defrost is set for 25 minutes. So I don't know if it was terminating false alarming or what, but we're going to go ahead and hook it up and we're going to put a new defrost termination switch on it. Pretty sure power is completely dead on this thing. So let's make sure that before we go tinker in with it. Let's get into some of our electrical here. Get us a male. Get that hooked on there. Get us our switch. Got multiple different sensors. There's that one. Go ahead and get that replaced while we're at it. Now's the time to do it while everything's off and nice and dead. So 5709-L. Disconnect is off. Yeah, it's not in the greatest shape stuff, but you know, it works. So go ahead and put a spade terminal on that again. There we go. Like I said, we'll cut up here on X. That is your termination. Now we could take it up a little higher. We can go to 30, which is where most time it's at. Let it terminate a little bit on its own from that point. Let's go ahead. Let's go down below. Okay. This should be pretty simple. Then grab this out of here. Take that one out. Get that one out. So there we got the screws out. There's the control. Got a wire tied in there. Go ahead and rip that off. Okay, brown's up here on X. Go ahead and just hook the new one right there on X. Nice sense of reinventing wheels. Red on in. Cut on in. There you go. And finally black, which is down to F for fan. And let's go ahead and remove this one. Now, my guess is this was having issues. You can tell that it's an older one, because now they all come into the top. So it should be a little bit better. They all, this term limits at 55 degrees. The delay usually is 30, 35 area, I think. It says 57090. This is the 57090L. Okay. And then we want to hook that brown, black one there on the fan, which we've got it right there. We can put it back the way it was. I don't know if there was a reason for it. I mean, you put it too high. It could terminate easier. I think what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and just put it right back the way it was. Factory should already have it figured out. We'll try it and see how it does. And if we have to adjust it later, we'll adjust it later. But we may need to readjust it somewhere else. I don't know what the reasoning was. It very easily could have just been a bad control and somebody just didn't want to go inside the freezer, didn't have it on the truck. Back up, Jim Dandy. Make sure all of our wires are out of the heaters because you can see these heater elements get very hot. We don't want them melting into the wires. So let's keep those wires up and out of the way. Make sure all these elements are in spot. Everything's nicely attached here to the back. And the main thing now is just making sure that the pipe is insulated as best as possible. The smallest container ship is here. Very easily. Could be getting warm. Too warm in here. And causing the issue. Let's see how that bulb is. If it's loose, seems about accurate. Yeah, that installation is kind of a joke. Let's see if we can get a piece off my truck. So I've got a nice piece of insulation. This here is 7-8 ID, 3 quarter inch wall. That works perfect for a freezer. I've got glue. I'm going to split this and glue this together and that's going to make it a lot better. Ta-da. Let's see if it's any good. Okay, this glue is hot. Yeah, I think the glue's bad. It appears all my glues have gone bad. They must have froze. Let's see if this one's any good. Geez, it was. That one's good. All right. All right, so let's go ahead and get this hodgepodgey tape job off here. That's less than desirable. Got to love non-thinkers. I will try to jam it in there as best we can. Okay, let's get that to there, to there. Here's my serrated blade here. Seems to cut about the best on this stuff. Nice, smooth cut seems to do best. There we go. The key to this stuff is not very much. Just itty-bitty bit. Just want to get it tacky. We're going to get both sides just a little bit. You want it to try to pull it apart. That should start sticking pretty quick. See how it's already tacking pretty good. Go ahead and let it dry a little more. Then we'll put it together and she'll seal 100%. Then we'll just jam that sucker up in there. As good as we can. Now, this obviously is not going to fit real wonderful. But I think we can get it to seal up. If you can see it on top, then chances are you probably have it too thick. If you do too much, then you just got to wait longer. Now, look at this. I got water there. The drain line is plugged up. That definitely would cause water. Now what's funny is it's not wet. Not a bunch of it's back here in the back. Which are dry right here. And then a little plastic bag like that that don't help. So we're all dry back in here. I bet you anything we're not level. The drain comes out here. Go ahead and blow it out and see what happens. I mean, you've got some drainage already. You can see if we can maybe dislodge anything. It might be slowing it down. But like I said, it's not level in that pan. The infiltration you got there from that freaking thing. That's just a joke. Alright, let's see how we are on the ceiling. Yeah, we're not level on the ceiling. We're hanging to the left. That's real good. And the ceiling's kind of round too. Nice. It's half ass level. The ceiling slopes down like this. And like that. Even if I duct tape this sucker on it would look better than this garbage. And this for the most part is no insulation. Yep, that's going to be a little difficult. If it was solid and we could go on through, that would be the greatest way to do it. This was supposed to be a start-up, not all this. Normally I'll do like 23 degree angles or something, I think. Something like that. Just a little bit, which that's too much. Right there is what you want. Just damp but not showing. There we go. Now we're getting... We're getting there. That's not coming undone. We'll go ahead and form it around like a snake and get it in the rest of the way. I'll do some cheap, cheesy way of doing it. But it's better than I think the way it was going to be. You can make fun of me if you want. I think it kind of sucks. I'm not happy with it. We're going to form it together as best we can, but compared to the rest of this manstrosophy you got out here, I don't think it's really going to matter. It sucks as everybody in their drive-through brother is going to come through here and see this. That's the only thing I don't like. You can see the water blew out, so the drain's open. I'm not seeing any bolts coming up through the ceiling, so we might be able to lower that down and put some washers in there. You can see we're actually high on the left. See, there's a lot of what happened if we go higher. So what we need to actually be lower it, that would bring it down. That's dead nuts on there, buddy. A couple washers here. Let's try these. Do two each. Give us about an eighth of an inch. That's all they got, little legs. All right, there we go. Two washers. Hopefully it didn't make it worse. Looks dead balls on to me. Just about a 16th more on the right, but I don't want to take it too low. We're leaning this way now if you go with that flow. And we should be leaning this way on that one, or at least level. And far as front to back, we're level. So it went and got me some water. Let's go ahead and pour it in there because I'm still not happy with the way this is still pocketing some water up here on top. All right, nothing raining out of the drain. Let's go outside and see what we got out there. Okay, so it's still not hardly coming out. That's nice. It's actually starting to drain finally. Slow ass drain. Like I said, this drains freaking barely level. But far as the depth, it's got to be draining out just slower and shh. We still got water up on top. Okay, got some more water here. It's a little bit warmer. See, we're on that heat tape through the center of the drain, which can get crap to clog up on it. There we go. It's coming out a lot better than I did before. Still isn't as fast as you'd figure. You can tell. Somebody heated that up. I'd rather just see a whole new drain line on it. Don't look horribly bad, but don't look horribly great either. Yeah, I'm going to just wrap it with some duct tape. It ain't going to look great, but I don't know what else you're supposed to do with it. Better than it was, but still ain't where I wish it was. I don't know. It's just like, here's two broken toys. Make one work good with it. I mean, it's just the same thing. See, you still got some water there. That's going to freeze into ice, which is wonderful. I'm going to dry over here on this one side. Pretty much dry right there in the center. I think we got it a lot better than what it was. Definitely leans better on this one side, this other side. I'd bend it up hoping it would make it better, but it made it worse. I don't know. The insulation is a lot better than what it was by far. A whole lot better than what it was. All right, so we're using our nitrogen here. This cooler here was low on refrigerant. It had, at one time, 414, the TXVs, 134A, 12, and something else. So what we've done, we went ahead and changed the filter dryer. Added a tap here because we didn't even have a high side port that you could get to the other ones hidden way back here in the back. I'm converting this thing over. I'm not fooling with the freaking smatchy type crap refrigerant. Nobody labeled it. So what we did is I took my suction port off of the bottom of the compressor, stuck a quarter inch hose down into the bottom well using a piece of paper towel here. We're putting it around it and I'm holding it there. What I'm doing is adding pressure here on the suction side and that is pushing the oil right out into the jar. So as you can see right there, it shoves it right out of the compressor. So that's the easiest way to change oil in one of these. Now, obviously, a normal compressor wouldn't be easy to get a hose down in there, but literally we're just using the nitrogen to purge the oil out. And what I'll do is I'll end up switching this to PoE oil and we're going to put some 134A in it. This compressor is old enough that, and I told him, I said, if the compressor takes a crap, it was time for a new system anyway. So I think right there is just about the end of it. You can move it around a little bit. Now, when I first did it, I didn't know my hoses were open and it blew some oil out on the ground, unfortunately, and on me. So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to measure in the same amount of oil that I took out, maybe just a little extra because like I said, I spilled a little bit down there on this concrete, which I'm going to have to get the degreaser out and clean that up and we'll pump this oil back into the compressor, which I'll probably fill it up to about right there, and we'll pump that back in and then I'll know exactly how much oil's in there. I carry at least three gallons of oil when you're doing the grocery stores. You need it. All right, so we got that. We'll get the pump out and we'll pump it in. So what I normally would use if it was a bigger compressor is my coffee can thing there, and that's usually what I keep my pump and stuff in. It just makes it simpler. My voice is screwed up because I'm still getting over this cold. We're going to wipe this out, making sure there's no moisture in it, and we're going to fill this up with oil. It's just a lot easier than trying to do a lot of measuring and stuff like that. It's just not easy to do, and I'm all about keeping it simple and effective. Now, yes, that is a different bottle, so that's the old stuff. Nice thing about that is I can keep that from getting all over the place. So we'll go ahead and get this all wiped out. Okay. Everything's clean. They're good to go. So there's no moisture in there. Ta-da. Now, as far as any moisture, like I said, we're going to get it out with a vacuum pump as best we can. Obviously, POE oil, you can't get it all out of anyway. That's what your filter dryer's for, and there's chances are that oil's probably low to begin with. You got to balance it here, guys. I mean, literally, look at this thing. It is done, had better lives. What we use, Loctite 567. It's not really Loctite. Loctite, it's Loctite brand. This system probably has other leaks. Customer understands that, but we were supposed to just do a simple startup. So we got the little sore hose on there, and we're going to go ahead and continue pumping her in. Every time you pull up, it pulls it in. Wash it right here, each stroke. Okay. There we go. She's converted now. We just pull back on it, get her recharged, and this stem here actually had a removable valve core depressor. So it literally is hollow all the way through. So we were able to pull that right out. So that is going to have full flow through there. There's no good way to get my big hoses in here, so we're just going to pull through the manifold. I'm usually anti-manifold, but we're just going to do it. We just get it done. So I'm pulling a vac on it. I'm going to go ahead and get started on some of these other coolers. We've got this one here that I think just needs turned on. This one here, the valves are all bad on it. You can't even valve it off, so I don't even mess with this one. The freezer should be froze down. Added some duct tape to this. I think the way I like it, but man, these are only so much I can do. We got these probes up in the inside, checking super heat. Box is only at 50-some degrees. So it's going to take a little while for the box to get down. As soon as it gets down, then we'll be a little tuned in that's super heat. We're going to see if it won't use it, though. It's not going off like that at all. We're going to see. This is not a very big cooler. The ice cream mix sets in here, and these are the pumps that pump it up to the ice cream machine. It goes out through those tubes right there. With such a short run, theoretically, you're supposed to have at least 20 to 25 degrees super heat at the compressor, so that you have plenty of leeway. And generally, the super heat at the compressor overruns the, overrides the TXV's super heat, because you want to protect the compressor. And such a short run, there's really not a whole lot of heat to be gained between here and the compressor. I must have had my phone set wrong or something, because we got 134A out here, and according to this, I've got no super heat at all. So you're going to need to go back in there and cut back on that. Yep, I accidentally left it on R22. Let's switch it to 134A. There. Yeah, no super heat. It's 40 and 40. Trying to get back in. Stupid me. Made a boo-boo. Good thing I caught it before I got it done, though. I'm going to go ahead and let it do its thing while I work on some other ones. We'll have to tweak it. So this Wilder Beast is running. There was a light switch in here that was off. This is where they do their meat for hamburgers and stuff like that. You can see this thing. It's just a little bit older. But guess what? It's not leaking, and it's a little bit of a rattle trap, but it's not leaking. And it feels like it's blowing cold. Everything on it pretty much works. So we're good on that. This is the one that we leveled out. I put it into a defrost. All right, so I've got it into a defrost. We're at three minutes, four minutes. So we're going to see what does it take for this thing to get out of defrost. You can see we've got crunchies on the floor. Coil's already pretty warm. We'll see how long it runs in this before it drops out and goes to the other. I may put it back to that 25-minute mark because I have a bad feeling that we need to determine it quicker and now it's going to hopefully determine it quicker than what it used to, so we'll see. Now, I pulled this thermometer out and, I mean, we're dropping at 38. When I stick it in here, which is equivalent to the same height that I have or that other sensor's at, look how she's starting to jump up already. It's 40-some degrees. So it definitely is holding temperature in there and that's why it would trigger. So maybe it was triggering too soon, but my goodness, I mean, it's theoretically done defrosting. So we're at 44 right now on the inside there. Now, if you go up a little higher, instantly, I jump up to 56. Come down just one or so little notch, instantly starts dropping back down to the 40s, which is crazy, but heat rises and that's what you can do is you can raise that. You move that switch all over the place. If you want to sit here and watch it and see where things are at, which you shouldn't have to do that, but if you've got weirdo issues where people are leaving doors open, you freeze up too often, whatever the case, these are things that are good to know so that you can use it for later to try to figure out how to deal with that situation. But like I said, right there at that height where that switches at, we're at 46, someone's 47. If I just tilt it up a little bit, instantly jumps up to 41 degrees, 54. So she's going to trigger here real quick right now, eight minutes and 59 seconds. And you can see how the heat is coming out and we're already raising up. So we may need to raise that up a little bit. You can see the fog looking missed. They got going on. That's what you've got going on here and it's not triggering yet. It just clicked out. That was at 13 minutes. So it's doing its job. But he's getting, like I said, that much there and it's such a small box that it's causing him some issues. We're going to go ahead and raise that up. We just mainly raise it a little bit higher. Take it a touch closer there. I don't think it's going to make a huge difference because that's aluminum. The aluminum is going to transfer heat pretty quick. And we'll see how that does form on the next go-round. I mean, all we can do is try to make his problem better. Well, I told him we may have to lower that drain line. But as you see, we're back into freeze mode and the fans are not on yet because it's got a drop in temperature, which hopefully doesn't screw me in reverse. But since there's not a lot of load in here right now, it shouldn't take much for it to hit the fans. Okay, we got the clock. Let's go ahead and take that back down to about 25 minutes like I had originally. That way, if it ever fails or whatever, it won't be such an issue. There we go. And then we'll put this back together. The side glass was full on the one beside this one. The side glass is full. And that old one that we just did. Yep, the side glass is full. Oil's right at three-quarter. Good on that. Everything's looking good. Jumping over to this one. I got a clamp here. That's my 311. This is the one that's actually the inside one. And we're right at 16 degrees. So I'm going to go back in and see where we're at. Theoretically, we should be darn close. Staying nice and steady, solid side glass. Compressor actually sounds better than it did before. It had a louder tick noise earlier. Not coming overly crazy cold back. All right, so we're 38 degrees in here. It says 17 degrees superheat. I did have to zero on my transducer because temperature change in here. It's not compensated. Mixed feelings here. Obviously, we were able to hit it with that pie of a superheat. Normally, I would go somewhere around 8 degrees. And we hit temperature. I want to have enough there so that I'm safe for my compressor. So I'm just going to leave it there. That way I got enough room for my compressor. And if you look, we're frosting up pretty good in there. So everything looks pretty good. And I think we're good here. Sometimes I'll let my detector sit here in the door while it's open. That way it doesn't get any false alarms from the truck when it's calibrating out. So what I wanted to do now that I'm done, I wanted to scan over any of these fittings that I had fooled with to make sure I don't have any leaks. I have tried bubbles before and I've gotten bit. It's just sometimes better if it's not contaminated. Just go ahead scan it over with your detector one last time just to make sure you don't have something like that. That was on the suction line. That was the last thing I just put back together too. That's that junk cap. I like solid brass best. The next best is these ones here. They got nice grips on them. There we go. Nothing. That is how you know you got a good detector when you can put it on the cap that's been sitting there. Yeah, there's a reason why I push this thing. It's got its issues here and there but every time I've had a problem they've taken care of it. So that's where I've got the two-year swap it out over the counter warranty. I've been really happy with it. It's expensive but if you charge your customer for doing leak searches you'll have it paid for no time flat. I think we charge like $8 or $10 or something. How many leak searches? I sometimes do 3, 4, 5, 6 leak searches a day. It just depends. Let's just kick back on the scanning inside real quick too. That usually stays open. They literally just plug in there. Yeah, whatever. Here's your low ambient control. The door when it gets too cold. Let's get that cap back on there. Turned everything off and warmed up with the torch to keep all that frost off of it and it's not going off now. I wonder if that cap was off. Just causing it because literally I put that on there. See I start playing with that already. No. It's not it. I don't know. I think it's one of these dark fittings right there unfortunately. Now I've got another call. There we go runs. I can't even got time to mess with it now. Usually come out some fresher air and come back into it. It's not huge but definitely. I mean I went off on super mode. Which is where I use it at most of the time. It's probably the slow leak they've got. It could have been that valve stem on the TXV being off. Anything's possible. I think at this point we'll just not have to come back. If it goes low we'll spend more time on it. Alright guys so that's going to wrap that one up. That was a long day. A lot of things going on. Conversion leaks. You name it. Pretty much had a little bit of everything there on it. And those are the kind of days you just drag on forever. So now I'm going to go run a new cooling call. It's 64 degrees outside in this office. It's got its own system which is a disaster. Never works right. And doesn't have the economizer hooked up like it was supposed to. So they just got fan cycling. Go ahead to that one but I'm not going to show yet because it's just the EBKGBs there. You guys enjoyed this video and you want to see more like it. Click that subscribe button. Make sure you click the notification bell so that you get notified when the new one releases. And until next time we'll catch you on the next one. Later.