 Welcome to World of Right, guys. I'm Let's Fly RC, and today we're going to show you how to build Baby Shark. Baby Shark is a lightweight FPV frame that's great for indoor and outdoor flying. The best thing about it is that it's HD. When I designed Baby Shark and I flew around in my house, I had a whole new love for flying micros again. And I think you guys will enjoy it yourself. The parts we're going to use today are a carbon fiber reinforcement plate, a TPU pod, a plastic frame, four DAB motors, an FR Sky receiver, beta FPV flight controller and ESC stack. The Runcam Nano HD will be using the Sharkbite Digital FPV VTX, a Lollipop UFL antenna, special screws, straps, zip ties. We got all the tools ready to go. Let's get started. Don't lose that guy. That's a very important piece. This is a battery pad that keeps the battery from sliding around. The screws that come with the motors are just a little bit too long. So we've got special screws to fit this frame that are exactly five millimeters long. You definitely want to use these screws and not the ones that come with the motors. Shiny motors. All right. So the first step would be to get the flight controller mounted to the body and the motors soldered to the flight controllers. One way would be to direct solder to the board, which means you'd have to take off these connectors. And that's the way I'm going to be doing it today. The second way to do it would be to buy the crimping tool and the proper crimping connectors to put onto this to plug it into the actual flight controller. The way I'm going to be doing it today is I'm going to be taking off these connectors and direct soldering to the board. It's a more permanent connection and less subject to getting broken or falling off in flight. The future's on here. So it turns out that the soldering you're about to see in this video is really hard to do even for me. So we came up with a better solution in case you don't have insanely great soldering skills. This is way easier to do. So originally I decided to snip off the connectors on the beta board that we were using for these builds. And that not only voids the warranty, but also makes it very difficult to solder to the board. It's very tiny, tiny solder joints. It's really hard to do even for me. So one of the things that I decided to do was to order some of these JSTSH pigtails. And these are designed to plug right into the board. And we can use these pigtails with our hype train dab motors. And what we're going to do is I'm going to show you how to chop off the leads, solder them to the right length, and then we can just plug it right into the board. It's going to make the build process so much simpler, so much easier. There was actually three different methods that I used when I built these. One of them was to solder directly to the board. One of them was to try to crimp my own connections in these little connectors. And this way we're going to actually snip off the leads from the motor and reattach this pigtail to the motor. I think this is going to be the easiest method for people to be successful with. So I'm just stripping off about four millimeters worth of wire and that is going to be soldered to this pigtail. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to tend these three pieces of wire. I'm going to go ahead and tend the wires that are already factory tend because they use lead free solder over in China. We're going to go ahead and re-tend these with our leaded rosin core solder because it just joins a lot easier to our leaded solder we're going to be using for this connector here as well. So before we do that we actually need to take a piece of heat shrink for each wire and run it up the wire so we don't forget. So let's just go ahead and put our heat shrink on the wire right now. So we're going to put a little small piece of heat shrink on each of these three wires. All right so I'm using 6040 leaded rosin core solder for this. Works really well. It's very easy to use and you can get a really nice clean strong solder joint with this solder. So try to find either 6040 or 3763 solder with the rosin core and leaded for this project. If you're only doing a small amount of builds then the lead is not really going to be an issue on your health. If we're just doing one quadcopter here shouldn't be a problem. We're going to tend these three connections and just join them together. I want to make sure I hold the heat shrink away so it doesn't get heated up and melted right away. Go ahead and touch these. If your solder joint doesn't look the best you can just desolder it, re-tend the two leads and try again and get it looking really nice and clean before you put it all together. All right so now we've got our three wires soldered. We can go ahead and slide the heat shrink down and heat it up. Make sure that it lines up properly with the solder joint that you created. Once you have your heat shrink centered on the solder joint that you created you can go ahead and hit it with a heat gun or a lighter or something similar. All you have to do is repeat this process three more times and you'll be ready to mount these motors to the frame and to plug these right into the flight control board and we won't have to worry about soldering to the board. It's going to be so much easier to do and it's going to make the build so much faster for you guys. Once you have your motors pigtailed up all we're going to do is slide the pigtail right through the slot here. Go ahead and put our motor into its position and then once we have that in position we can flip the board over and we can plug it in to its port. This one's going to go right into this port here and that was so much easier than trying to solder to the board and I can just tuck the excess wire right up inside the frame there because all you have to do is plug these guys in and you won't have to do all that crazy soldering that you're about to see from old Sean. Let's get back to the build video. All right so we're going to take the gummies out of the bag. The beta FPV flight controller comes with all the screws, gummies and wiring that you're going to need for this build. Try not to lose any of them. They give you a couple of extras but we might need every piece to build this. These gummies get installed into the flight control board and this is very fragile so you have to be extremely careful when putting these gummies into this flight control board that you don't break off the outer tip. The first one I built I broke the outer tip off of one of them because I wasn't being careful enough so you just have to kind of get it in there. Kind of a pain in the butt to do. I like to use the 1.5 mil hex tool when I'm putting these in because it's not sharp it's a little blunt and it helps to push the gummy in. Like I said you have to be very careful not to break the circuit board when you're doing it. It's not the end of the world if you do. It's just a little bit more durable and holds itself in place better if you don't break it. We're going to repeat the same process for the other three holes. Be careful not to rip the gummies they give you an extra one just in case. The easiest way I've found to direct solder these is to cut these plastic connectors off. If you're very carefully you take a set of cutters like this and you just kind of get underneath the plastic wiggle it back and forth a little bit as you're squeezing you can get the little plastic connector to come right off and you want to do that three more times to get all of the plastic connectors off. You don't want to take off any of these little circuits off of the board you got to be really careful not to damage anything when you're doing it but just a little bit careful you can just kind of lift them off. The easiest way to remove these pins is to attach a heavy tool like a hemostat to them. You want to lock onto one of these at a time and then solder from the other side so that gravity will make it fall to the ground. So now that I have the hemostat attached I'm going to take the soldering iron with a tiny bit of solder on there and just add some heat to that pad wiggle it back and forth a little bit until the pin falls out. Okay so I'm just going to add a little bit of fresh solder wiggle it back and forth and it falls right out. So now we've got to do that 11 more times. All right so that's hemostat number two add a little bit of solder to the tip and just touch the one pad wiggle back and forth and it falls right out. You need to be very careful with these pads because if you apply too much heat or touch them for too long of a period of time they will come right off the board so as you're doing this as you're trying to clean them up just be very careful not to touch them for too long or apply too much heat to them so make sure your soldering iron isn't set too hot. I made sure that I put some fresh solder on them and I separated them from each other so that the solder is not touching one pad to the next. When doing this you want to use like pretty much the smallest soldering iron tip that you have available. It's a very tedious build. Little micros are always the hardest. A good way to remove a little bit of extra solder if there's too much on there is to just keep cleaning the tip of your soldering iron and bringing it back and it has a tendency to collect the solder for you. When you're finished you want to make sure that all six pads on both sides are not touching each other on both sides of the board. You want to make sure that none of the pads are touching each other and there's plenty of gap in between each pad. All 12 pins have been removed now. I'm just going to apply a little bit of fresh solder to them so that they are shiny and we try to we're going to try to flood them with a little bit of extra solder to remove all of the solder from the manufacturer and replace it with solder with the built-in flux. I'm using Hester rosin based solder with built-in flux. Right now we're using 6040 solder. I typically use 7337 solder. Either one works fine as long as it's got the rosin core with the built-in flux. You want to get your solder to look beautiful like that. Nice and shiny, little ball of solder left on the pad and that's perfect for attaching the new motor. So the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and mount all four of the motors to the frame and then I'm going to put the flight controller in position. This slot right here is made for an LED license plate. So that's how you know where the rear of the frame is. If you keep that in mind throughout the rest of the build it'll make it easier to remember where everything goes. So this is the front that's the back. We're going to go ahead and just start putting the motors in. So as I'm putting the motors in I'm going to take this carbon fiber plate and place it on the bottom, put the screws through the carbon fiber plate through the plastic and into the motor. To get the exact right screw size we've included these five millimeter M2 screws which are exactly the right length to go through the carbon, the plastic, into the motor without affecting the windings. Whenever you're installing a motor you need to make sure that the screw doesn't protrude past the metal and into the windings of the motor or you could damage a motor by going into the wire windings of the motor. This one has serial number 0010. They're actually serial numbered and everything. We're putting in number 10 using a 1.5 millimeter rotor riot hex tool to put the screws in. When putting these screws in it's always a good idea to use a little bit of Loctite just to keep them from falling back out in the future. There's a lot of vibration that goes on in these little drones and the vibration tends to back out these screws and if you lose these screws you're probably not going to find them again. Depending on the tolerance of the carbon it might be a little tight and you may have to use a little bit of screwing force to get it through the carbon fiber panel. So don't tighten the first screw all the way down right away. Leave the first screw a little bit loose and then put in all four screws in each motor just a little bit loose before you completely tighten them down. That makes it easier to line the other holes up. Just a little bit snug but not completely tight. Leave a little bit of a gap there until you get all four screws in and then once you get all four screws in you can tighten it down all the way. Don't go crazy. Don't need that much force. I'm going to tighten them in a crisscross pattern going back and forth in this crisscross pattern as I tighten them and just kind of make sure they're all snug. There's not a special torque spec but tighten it down until right before you think you're going to rip the threads out and stop. I'm just going to route this wire down and towards the left and right sides of the frame. So all of these motor wires are going to either be on the left side or the right side of the frame not the front or the back. So the back here we got the back here got the front here we're going to route these wires up and through the side of the frame like this and we're going to repeat this process three more times. All right so the next step in this process is to solder the motors to the flight controller. We've got the wires routed to the sides. Remember this is the back and this is the front of the frame so the wires are routed to the side and up through this center cavity here on either side left and right. We pretty much want to keep all the wires the same length. We're just going to kind of tuck them under the flight controller when we're done. If you cut them any shorter it's going to be really hard to solder this board. I'm actually using this helping hands set up here to hold the frame in an orientation that makes it easier for me to solder to the board. The way the board gets mounted the cable here gets routed through the back hole of the cavity so this is the back of the quad and the cable is going to end up going through this hole and it lines up just like that on the board. These four gummies are going to line up to these four holes that are sticking up and we're not going to press it down right now but that's how it's going to end up being when we're done. This little tiny arrow right here is pointing forward and that is the orientation we want the board to end up in when we're finished. As you can see the motor pads are off to the side here on both sides so that's why we ran the wires up the side here on the left and the right because we're going to be attaching it to the bottom of the board. All right so the trickiest part about this is trying to keep track of which wire goes where. As far as the three wires on the motor goes it doesn't necessarily matter which one you attach it to because in the in BL Helley in the future we're going to be able to reverse the motor direction through software so getting the three motor wires exactly in position middle left right isn't that important but it is important that you get motor one attached to motor one on the board, motor two attached to motor two on the board. Just basically line them up with the position that they're sitting on the board. This is going to be motor one, this is going to be motor two, this is going to be motor three and this will be motor four so you just want to make sure you attach the motors to the proper pads. We're going to attach these wires to the bottom of the flight control board rather than the top because there's not a whole lot of room to get the wires up and over to the top. I mean I guess you could but when you put all these wires in there and you put the pod on top it gets a little bit tight and congested. So I'm going to get the helping hand set up to position this flight controller in this orientation so that I can attach all the wires I need to the board. Hold them like that. Take this guy. Hold my flight control board and I don't want to cover my solder points. Here we go. All right now I've got it lined up. I'm going to take my rotor right at tweezers and I'm going to attach these wires to their solder points but before I do that I want to trim off about half of the metal that's already pre-tinned from the factory because you want to have a very very small amount of wire left over on the end before you solder it to the pad. We want them to be as short as possible so that they don't end up touching each other because they are so close together. The whole point of this build is to keep it as light as possible. We have another whoop style frame that uses the DJI setup and the DJI setup so heavy that it's not as nimble and free flowing as this frame. This frame flies so much better because of its lightweight so in order to keep it light we did a lot of extra stuff to keep it light. Using the Sharkbite system was key in keeping this frame super light because the Sharkbite system is the size of a tiny whoop board. Super lightweight. Tend up all these wires that I've already cut them just a little bit short. Tend them all up. You want to pre-tend all these wires to try to get some of that factory lead free solder off of them and put some of the leaded rosin core solder on. If you tin your wires and tin your pads they'll go together really easily. If you don't pre-tend them then you're going to have a little bit of a trouble trying to get the solder joints to look good when you're done. You can see all the bubbles. That's all the rosin core flux that's in. This solder has a ton of flux in it which makes it really easy to solder with but it's a little bit messy at the same time. I like to try to start with the one that's hardest to get to first like the center ones first and then move my way out to the outer edges. This is really hard to do. There we go. One down, 11 to go. Ideally you want to use an even smaller soldering tip than what I'm using because this one's kind of big. It's got to inspect it really good. Make sure that nothing is touching and it looks good. Everything looks good on those three. So move on to the next three. It'll be pretty much impossible without these tweezers. All right we're halfway there. This is the hardest part. Everything else in this build is pretty much easy but this is the hardest part of the whole build. It's soldering these guys on. I want to make sure that you have the right three wires going to the right quadrant on the board. See you don't want to do what I did because I've got one wire from this motor going to this quadrant two wires from this motor going to that quadrant and yeah so I got to now move around a couple wires. Make sure you're paying attention to which motor is up to which quadrant. When you're doing it you have to go back and do more work. Let's try not to mess up this time. So they don't get them mixed up. I'm going to take the three wires from each side and just kind of bend them over the plastic frame just so that they're tucked out of the way and that way when I'm working on this one I only have these three wires exposed and that'll keep me from screwing up. Oh yeah that was the right angle right there. If you mess up on your joint it's always a good idea to go back and retain both connectors with fresh solder because the flux gets used up and then if you try a second time it's really hard to get the two to bond together without the flux. Boom we'll see how nice and clean that went. All right we got all 12 wires attached. I'm just inspecting them to make sure that none of the wires are touching each other and that they all kind of have an upward direction to them because when we flip this over we want them to all point down. So now that I've got all the wires in the right position I'm going to flip the board over and push it back down onto the board. But before I actually push it down onto the board I want to go ahead and prepare the receiver which is going to get mounted underneath this board. I'm bending these wires so that they are kind of straight. Be very careful not to bend them too hard because you might break the solder pad off the board but we do want them to be kind of straight so that they're facing downward because we need to push them down into the frame and they need to be pointing in a downward direction. I'm just going to pull the wiring down through as I push this board in. Make sure my XT60 is going through the right place and I'm just test fitting right now to make sure that everything is going to fit properly before I install the receiver. Okay yeah that's fine I don't have to do any other adjustments so I'm just going to line up these gummies to their holes and see if I can press it down into position and I can. So that means that I did a good job on all the wiring. When I'm done I'll just take all this excess wiring and tuck it inside the hole there and it's going to have its own little place in there it'll be totally fine. There's no need to worry about the excess wire. The excess wire will give you the ability to service this in the future if you ever need to open it up for any reason. Not having that excess wire there is going to make it impossible to pull the board up if you ever had to get to the underside of that board. So right now I'm just going to go ahead and pop the board back up and I'm going to install the receiver where it needs to be underneath the board before I snap it down into place. The beta FPV board comes with two plugs. It comes with a four pin plug for the receiver and a six pin plug that's normally used for the DJI receiver but we're going to end up using this for our Sharkbite system instead. So this six pin connector will be used for the Sharkbite system. This four pin connector will be used for our receiver and the receiver we're using today is the RxSR from FR Sky. We're going to want to connect the cable that came with the RxSR to the connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller. Now you could just take these two connectors and solder and heat shrink them together but that's a little bit messy. So I'm going to do it a little bit differently than that. I'm actually going to cut this connector off and solder directly to the board with the beta FPV cable that came with the beta FPV flight controller. We're only going to need three of these wires. We're going to need five volts ground and the s-bus wire. The fourth wire we're just going to take off. On this particular cable we're going to use red, black, and white and we're going to take off the yellow lead. We don't need that lead. We only need power ground and receive. The easiest way to remove these pins is to take a razor blade and lift up on the white tab and pull out the wire. So we've got the tab lifted up, pull the wire out. You can also use an XM plus with this as well. On some of the other builds I used an XM plus receiver instead of the RxSR receiver. You could probably even use a spectrum receiver in here just fine and you would wire it a little bit differently but you're still going to use the three wires power ground and receive. We're going to take this white connector off in a similar fashion to what we did on the other board but I'm going to be a little bit more destructive with this one and just kind of cut it off of there because these pins don't come, this white connector doesn't come off as easy as it did on the flight controller. So I'm just going to be a little destructive and taking these pins off of there without damaging the board. If you have some nice angled cutters like this it makes it pretty easy to take them off. I'm going to keep all three of these wires the same length that they came with the beta FPV board and just tin them up and prepare them to connect to the receiver. So we need voltage ground and s-bus out on this receiver, the outermost pin is ground, the second pin in is five volts and the fourth pin in is the s-bus out. We want to use those three connections when hooking to the RxSR. All right so this is the outermost pad right here and just put a little solder on these. These are kind of tiny too, a little bit hard to work with just like the flight control board. I'm going to kind of add some solder to them and tin them up. We need to get all that lead free solder off the pads so that we can kind of flood it with the leaded solder that we have because it works a little better. You can see all that flux on there. I'm adding leaded solder to this board because the lead free solder that comes from the manufacturer doesn't solder well. And I just kind of flooded them with a little bit too much solder and then wiped off the XS so that I can have a nice shiny connection. And if you really want to make it nice you can clean it with alcohol and get all that ugly yellow flux off of there before you continue because it's hard to see but I actually have all five pads cleaned up at this point. All right so I'm going to go ahead and attach ground to the outermost pad. Actually I'm going to do red first because the outermost pad is one of the easiest ones to solder to. This one's a little harder to line up. There we go. Got my power. I'm going to get my ground. And then the fourth pin in is going to be our S-Bus pad. So this white wire is going to go to the fourth pad in. All right we got our three wires connected to the receiver. I'm going to add some heat shrink to the receiver to keep everything protected and then we can plug it into the board and close everything up. Ideally you want to take some alcohol and a paint brush and just kind of clean off the XS flux that's left over when you're done. I'm using some solder that has a ton of flux in it and it just makes a mess. It's not really going to hurt anything but it just doesn't look clean. All right so I'm going to trim my heat shrink down to about the right size. I don't need quite that much heat shrink. Okay put this on there. Heat shrink it up. When you use clear heat shrink on these because you have to be able to access the bind button. It's really small. Heat shrink is almost not small enough. All right so now we've got this connector attached to our R-XSR receiver. This is the bind button. We're going to make sure that this bind button is accessible for when we have to bind up our receiver in the future. So we're going to go ahead and insert this into the frame and this four pin connector this plug plugs in right there on the beta FPV flight controller. It's a little bit challenging to get in there with this gummy in the way and you definitely want to do it before you put the screw in. If you're really careful you can strategically squeeze it in there and keep the gummy from getting crushed by it. But it takes a little bit of effort. I usually squeeze the gummy out of the way. I get my finger in there just right and I pull the connector out of the way. There we go and now the gummy is outside of that port. Kind of pull the wires up and out of the way because we're going to have to put a screw into this gummy in the future. So make sure that connector is pushed all the way in and that these wires are just kind of pulled up and out of the way so when we put the screw in later they won't be in the way. I'm going to route this cable down beside the flight control board and underneath the frame. I want to position it to where the antennas come out the front of the frame and wrap around the ducts. So this is the front of the frame and I want my wires to come out that direction like that. Let's slide this down get the wires coming out the front like that and I'm going to flip it over to where the bind button is facing the bottom of the drone so that we can access it in the future when we go to bind this up. I'm going to push it back far enough towards the rear of the drone that the bind button sticks out just a little bit. It doesn't need to be mounted in there it can just kind of be hanging free but I'm going to push it back just enough to where on the back side you're able to pull it out just enough to access the bind button right there. So that's about the position that I want this to be sitting in. When I tape these wires to the body itself I want this to be accessible. I need enough length on the wire for that to happen then I can push it back in when I'm done. So now once we have this where we want it to be I'm going to take some electrical tape and I'm going to tape these wires from the receiver in this orientation around the outside of the frame. All right so I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape just about one inch pieces should be sufficient. Make sure my receiver is where I want it. Stick the electrical tape around the frame here we go. I'm just going to kind of wrap the antenna in the electrical tape around the frame like this trying to keep it as tight as possible as I'm wrapping the tape so that the inside of the tape doesn't have anything sticking out for the prop to strike. I'll put three more pieces one piece here one piece there and one piece there just to keep the antennas from getting chopped up by the props. I know it's kind of silly to be picky about electrical tape but the electrical tape I like to use is the 3M Super 33 Plus. This is the best electrical tape to use because it's extremely sticky and it's very flexible. It's easy it's stretchy other electrical tapes will probably let go because the glue that they use just isn't good enough to hold on for long periods of time. So if you're going to get picky about electrical tape the best electrical tape to use is the 3M Super 33. I got this at Home Depot but as I'm putting it on I'm stretching the tape as I'm pulling it around and that keeps the glue nice and tight so that it doesn't unravel when I'm flying and take out my props. All right so so far we got the receiver mounted in there. I've got enough slack to where I can pull it back and access the bind button out the back side so I can bind up in the future. It just kind of tucks its way underneath there. I've got my cables routed around the side of the flight controller here. All right so I got all the wires in place. I got the receiver mounted. I'm going to go ahead and push the flight controller down into position. All right so you just want to push these gummies down over those four plastic posts and we're going to put the four screws into those posts to hold the flight controller down. On the bottom side I'm just going to take these wires and tuck them in to the hole underneath the frame so that none of the wires will get struck by the propellers and everything just fits in there just perfectly. Enough room for everything to be there. There's also enough room for the battery strap as well when we're finished with the build. All right so we're going to flip it back over and put the four screws in. Now the beta FPV flight controller came with all of these screws and we're going to use almost all of them for this build. There are long screws and short screws. For the flight controller we want to find the five short screws. We're only going to use four of them but there's five long screws and five short screws that come with the beta FPV flight controller. We want the four short screws to mount the flight controller. It really helps if you have a magnetic screwdriver to do this because they're so small that they're hard to put on. You can magnetize your phillips head screwdriver just by touching it to a magnet. So this is the hardest one to do so we'll do it first. We've got to put the screw in without letting the screw damage the wire on the way down. So keep a very close eye on the power wires as you screw in this screw. Make sure that it doesn't damage the coating on the wire or the wire itself. And then the other three screws are fairly simple to put on. The hard part's done. The rest of it's fairly easy. So this is a Sharkbite HD video transmitter and that's the next step in this build. We're going to take the six pin connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller and we're going to install that. We're going to attach four of the wires to these four pads on the Sharkbite video transmitter. On this video transmitter we've got ground power receive and transmit and we want to hook four of the wires from the six pin connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller to these four pads. From this six pin harness we're going to use the first four pins red black yellow and white. We're going to position them on this board as black red yellow white in that order and we're going to take off the remaining two wires at the end of this harness because we're not going to use those. I'm going to go back to our little trusty razor blade here. We're going to lift up the two white tabs on the outer edge of this connector and we're going to remove the yellow and the black. So remove the yellow and the black. We're left with red black yellow and white. So we're going to keep all this length just how it is and we're going to tend these four ends and we're going to tend these four pads on the video transmitter and we're going to connect it up. So the hardest one to get to is the one closest to the Molex plug. So I'm going to do the white one first then I'm going to do the yellow one and so on and so forth. We got yellow and red and black. There we go. All right. Cool. We're going to take this video transmitter and we're going to simply just plug it into this port right here. Make sure it goes all the way in seated properly. This video transmitter needs an antenna and the antenna that we're going to end up using on this build is the lollipop micro with a UFL connector on it because it's really small and lightweight and it fits the build really well. The camera and cable come together with the Sharkbite system and the camera and the cable need to be hooked to this video transmitter also prior to putting it all together because there are two holes in this video transmitter right here and here that are designed to have a zip tie in place to keep the antenna and the camera cable in place so that they don't pop loose and come disconnected in flight. So we're going to put those all together. All right. So we need to take this camera cable and orient it like this and line it up with the connections on the video transmitter. Get it kind of lined up, feel it out and just press it in place and it snaps right in place. We're going to do the same thing with the UFL connector of the antenna. Just kind of line it up and snap it in place in this orientation here and now we can take a little tiny zip tie and go between those two holes and lock them in place. So the way you want to do it is you want to put the zip tie in in this direction so that the big fat head of the zip tie is on top because there's not enough room between two boards for this zip tie to have the fat head on the bottom. It's a little tight. I might be able to find yourself a skinnier zip tie than what I found. Push it to the other side, watch out for the cable. All right, pull it tight. Don't damage anything in the process but you want to try to get rid of this bump as much as possible on the bottom side and then we're just going to lock the zip tie in place. Now just make sure the antenna doesn't come unplugged and the camera cable doesn't come unplugged in flight. The smaller the zip tie the better. It doesn't have to be a strong fat zip tie. It's a very light build. Okay, yo, take some right angle cutters and chop off the end. Next we're going to mount the camera inside the TPU pod and then we'll be mounting the video transmitter inside the TPU pod. Before we mount the camera we kind of have to get the direction of the camera figured out. So we need to put the connector on the camera in the proper orientation. This only fits one direction. If you try to put it on backwards it's not going to snap in place. This is the orientation that you need to put the camera cable on. Just line it up like before, push it in with your thumb until it clicks in place. You want the camera to be oriented where the wires are facing the sky and then your camera will be facing the proper position in the right direction when you put it in the pods. When we put it in the pod we're going to put it in this direction. We're going to use the two holes in the back because it's going to give the camera a little bit of extra protection. If you want to be able to have a little bit more tilt angle to the camera then you can move the camera to the two front holes but there should be plenty of, this is finicky, there should be plenty of angle available using the back holes for almost any situation. So we're going to just kind of line it up to the two holes. Those are the screws that came with the Runcam camera. We're going to use two longest screws that came with it to mount the camera in place. They're just barely long enough to reach the camera with a little bit of pressure. Try to line it up to the camera's hole as you're putting it in just like that. All right we'll put our second screw in, screw my screw in until it's tight. Don't get it too tight. What you want to first do before you get it super tight is adjust your camera angle. Now me personally I like the camera angle all the way down because most of the time when I'm flying this, I'm flying indoors and I don't need to go super fast. But some of your racers out there might want to have a little bit more camera angle and you've got tons of camera angle to work with with this pod. One of the reasons I built this pod with such a high angle is that all of this extra space up here provides a ton of protection to protect the camera in case you do land upside down. One of the major problems I had with some of the original micro drones like this is that I would land upside down on the pod and break the pod or break the camera or break the flight controller. This has all this extra room up here of bumper to protect on a top impact and keep it safe and durable. All right so we're going to use the remaining screws that came with the Beta FPV flight controller to screw the VTX to the pod now. We need three of the long screws that came with the Beta FPV flight controller to mount this VTX into the pod. There are three mounting posts, one, two, three that we're going to mount to. These three cylinders, one, two, three cylinders are where we're going to be mounting the video transmitter. There are little tiny holes in the TPU pod just big enough for the screw to penetrate through. All right so when we put this video transmitter in we're going to put it in a position where the antenna is going to pop out the back. So we're just going to take the antenna and push it through the section in the back of the TPU pod for the antenna to come out of and yeah we're going to line up the video transmitter in this orientation right here. The wires are just going to get pressed along the side of this. We're going to kind of push on the wires a little bit, not don't press too hard because we don't want to damage the coating on the wire but we're going to push down the wires just a little bit so that it can rest up against the TPU side of this panel. And as we put it in just be very very careful the wires not to damage them and be very careful that you don't pop these little tabs off because these little tabs are very fragile and if you're not careful you can pop these little tabs off. These tabs are going to help us to keep this locked in place properly so when you're putting it in just be very careful not to let these tabs get snapped off. All right so I'm just kind of slowly pushing it down and push it down until it pushes up against those three bumpers. All right so we're going to take these three screws and we're going to put them in to their positions. Just kind of screw them into the TPU until they bite and lock the video transmitter in place and repeat that two more times. We're not going to do the screw in the front of the TPU pod. The one that's closest to the camera we're not going to put a screw in because there's no cylinder tab thingy in that position. All right so we got one, two, three screws. We don't have a screw on the front where the camera is. Now we're going to mount the TPU pod to the frame. Remember this is the rear of the quad and this is the front so we will just lay this in place making sure that all the wires lay down properly underneath this TPU pod. We're going to try to line up our four holes and put our screws in. We have three remaining screws that came with the beta FPV flight controller. We're going to take the two long screws and place them on the left and the right of the pod and we're going to take the fourth screw and put it into the back of the pod. The front of the frame has a slightly larger hole. We're going to use the one remaining long screw that came with our camera to mount the front of the pod. All right so get the screw all the way through, line it up to the hole, screw it down. Don't over tighten it because you don't want to strip out the plastic. Okay now the last one's a little bit more difficult. You definitely want to have a magnetic screwdriver for this because you're going to have to put it down inside of this long cylinder hole and try to line it up with the center as you're going down. This screw is not necessary if you have trouble with it. It's just an extra screw that I put in place just for a little bit of extra strength but the original frame design wasn't even using this screw. Yeah look at that. It's nice and tight. That one's locked in place. These two are locked in place. We got one left in the front. I said this one's just a little bit bigger of a hole on the frame so we're going to use an M2 screw to go down into the front. And this is now one of the most durable micros that exists. So now we got this antenna left over. We're going to lay it into the channel that's set right there. This is designed to have a zip tie come through here and lock it in place so that the antenna doesn't get yanked off. So we're just going to wrap our zip tie around the antenna through the little hole in the back there and lock it in place. Okay cut that guy off. Now the antenna ain't going nowhere. Alright so this guy is all ready to go except for putting props on and flashing the software to the board. So what we're going to first do is go into Betaflight and make sure that all our settings are correct for the receiver, for the video transmitter, and make sure the motors are spinning the proper direction. We're going to plug into the USB port on the very bottom. This is a USB mini I think. We're going to plug in our cable to the bottom. Right now we don't necessarily need a battery connected until we're ready to spin up the motors. For right now we're going to set the basic features up of the flight control board. When we first connect it's going to tell you the accelerometer is not calibrated. And we need to close that screen. Alright let's put this up on the table here. This is our new accelerometer calibration tool. We're going to plug in our USB port and in order to calibrate the accelerometer we need to have it on a flat and level surface. It's kind of hard to get a flat and level surface with a big USB sticking out the bottom. So we're going to improvise and we're going to use this cinder block as our flat and level surface. So we're going to go ahead and connect to Betaflight, close the warning screen and click calibrate accelerometer. That's the first thing we want to do. Now we're calibrated we can do away with the cinder block. Alright the first tab we're going to go to is the ports tab. And in the ports tab we want to make sure that ur3 is set to zero rx. We want to make sure that ur4 is connected to msp. That's going to allow the osd information and stick commands to operate the shark bite system. Save and reboot and then we'll move on to the next tab. So we're going to reconnect again go into the configuration tab. That's the next tab we're going to go to. Make sure dshot 600 is selected. I usually drop the motor idle percent value to 2 or somewhere in that range because it's a little bit too floaty with the standard idle value. I usually go and change the maximum r angle degrees to 180 that will allow you to arm it at any angle in case you get stuck somewhere. Make sure it's set to sbus and make sure that your rx set is enabled if you want to be able to enable the beeper mode. It's also good to enable rx loss in case you turn off your transmitter. The model will start beeping if you enable rx loss if you turn off your transmitter. So save and reboot and reconnect. On the battery tab I like to increase the maximum cell voltage to 4.5 and that keeps it from giving me warnings when it doesn't need to give me battery warnings. Sometimes when you plug in a lipo if it's a little bit over or a little bit under it'll give you warnings that you have the wrong lipo plugged in and that stops that from happening. On pid tuning tab we're not going to leave we're not going to change any of that stuff. I like to use my rssi channel as aux 4 and then I can get rssi value from my transmitter to the osd on aux 4 which is actually channel 8 and then save that. On the modes tab we need to make sure we enable arming on aux 1 is the way I have my transmitter set up. You can also enable beeper turtle mode and any other features you want in the modes tab. I'm going to go ahead and set up the beeper on aux 3 because that's the way my transmitter set up. I'm going to set up flip over after crash on aux 2 and that's pretty much all the features that I need set on mine. In the osd tab you definitely want to have battery voltage selected at the very minimum so that way you can see what your lipo is at. Move the battery down to the bottom so it's out of the way. Save. You can enable any other things you want on the osd but that's all I'm going to have on mine. That in the rssi actually. I'm going to have the rssi as well so I can see what the signal strength is of the receiver. The next thing I need to check on is to make sure that the motors are in the right position because the board orientation might have them in the wrong position. So I'm going to spin up each motor one at a time and right now this is what Betaflight thinks motor 1 is. That's not the right motor for motor 1. Motor 1 should be over here. Motor 2 is spinning this motor so 1 and 2 are actually reversed. This should be motor 3 but that is actually motor 3. This should be motor 4 but that's motor 4. So we need to flip flop motors 1 and 2 and we need to flip flop motors 3 and 4 in Betaflight. In order to do that we're going to need to go to CLI. In the CLI tab we're going to type in resource. We're going to find the resource for motors 1 through 4 and we're going to copy the information into a text editing program such as text edit and paste it into that. So I want to change a few values. We need to flip flop 3 and 4 and we need to flip flop 1 and 2. So we're going to do that really quick on the text editor and we're going to recopy and repaste this back into Betaflight. So now I'm going to paste those commands back into Betaflight, hit enter, hit save and now our motors should be in the correct orientation. Let's reconnect Betaflight and verify on the motors tab that the motors are going and the motors are in the right position. So this is 1, that's correct now, this should be 2, that's correct now, this should be 3 and this should be 4 and that's correct. So now we need to make sure that the motors are spinning in the right direction. You definitely don't want to do this with the props on so we're going to go ahead and test the prop direction with the props off. We're going to go ahead and plug in the battery and it didn't catch on fire so we did something right. All right in the motors tab of Betaflight we're going to spin up all the motors and see what direction they're spinning. We're not going to spin them all the way up, just a little bit is enough to figure out what direction they're spinning and you can kind of feel them, make sure all four motors are working and make sure they're all going in the right direction. Now in this model I've got three motors spinning the wrong direction and one motor spinning the right direction. Motor one is spinning the correct direction which is the swimming configuration or props out. So these three motors are all incorrect and they need to be changed in BL Heli. So we're going to disconnect from Betaflight and we're going to use BL Heli Suite to fix the motor direction. So I'm going to use the chrome configurator just because it's easier to do that on a Mac. In the BL Heli configurator we're going to click connect and we're going to read the setup and we're going to leave everything the way it is because there's no reason to change it. We're going to change all the motor directions that we need to fix. ESC one was correct ESC two needed to go to reverse ESC three needs to go to reverse and ESC four needs to go to reverse. We're going to write setup and now all the motors should be spinning the correct direction. So we're going to disconnect from BL Heli and go back to Betaflight and make sure that our motors are all spinning the correct direction now. Back in Betaflight we're going to go to the motors tab and we're going to enable the motors and try one more time to make sure they're all spinning the right direction. And now they're all spinning the right direction. And the one last thing we need to do in Betaflight is go to the configuration tab and make sure that the motor direction is reversed and it already is. So that's good we can save and reboot everything and we're ready to put the props on and give it a test flight. If you don't want to have to go through all these steps we will have a tune file ready for you link in the description check it out. You will still have to make sure motor direction is correct but all the other steps that I performed in Betaflight you won't have to do. We've got a nice tune file that has the proper pin tuning and everything for this particular build. It actually has a tune file for 2s and 3s. So when you plug in a 2s battery it will automatically have the right settings. When you plug in a 3s battery it will automatically have the right settings for 3s. So now we're going to disconnect all the cables connect the props and take it for a test flight. Make sure you put the props facing out laces out. So Baby Shark takes a 2 inch prop. Just about any 2 inch prop should work just fine. We're using the HQ 2x2x3 prop here. Now before we can fly this we have to bind it to the receiver and I am using a QX7 receiver so I'll show you how to bind it to a QX7. So this radio is already set up and if you want to learn about how to set up a QX7, Joshua Barwell has a ton of videos on these radios but I'm going to show you how to do a quick binding of this radio and if you have this radio you might already know how it works and how to set up the switches but you'll definitely need to set up an arm switch and I have this switch set up as my arm switch which on AUX channel 1 which is channel 5 on an 8 channel transmitter. So in order to bind this receiver we're going to need to push it out the back just a little bit so we can access this bind button and it's a little bit tricky but you need to push that button. You need to be holding this button when you plug in the battery. So having a friend around to help you with this might be helpful because it's kind of hard to do by yourself. If you did that properly you should have a green light a red light and a blue light on the RXSR receiver and then we're going to go into the radio and into the bind settings. So on the radio all right we're going to press the middle button we're going to page over to the next page and we're going to scroll backwards all the way up to the external receiver we're going to go to the external receiver and we're going to click the bind button here and we're going to click one more time and if we did that correctly we should see the red light flashing on the receiver all right and we're going to press this button one more time to exit bind mode hit exit a couple times and unplug and replug the battery and if everything went properly you should have a light green light and a blue light on without the red light and that means that you are bound to the transmitter. I'm going to hold it really tight here and hit the arm switch and we're working. So the last thing we have to do is add our battery strap we've got this little piece of rubber material that comes with the beta FPV frame and we're going to install that on the bottom keeps the battery from sliding off in flight it actually comes as two separate pieces so you can peel them off one at a time you want to figure out what kind of battery you're going to use and what orientation you want this to be in and place it on the frame in a way that keeps the battery from sliding around so I'm going to stick mine in that orientation because I'm using these weird batteries that I just had happen to have laying around so I put my battery on the plug will reach just fine and then once I know what orientation my battery is going to be sitting in I can run my battery strap through the frame very easily in order to strap the battery in place get our battery in place get our battery in there strap her down plug in the battery and we're ready for our first flight thanks for watching guys I hope you enjoyed this build video I hope it was helpful and gave you a little bit of information on how to build this system I'm let's fly our see we'll see you guys next time