 4. Gambling. Fit at San Augustine. Breakfast at San Antonio. Report. Cockfight. Ladies. Private gambling. Avaca. The Calvario. Bonnets. Dinner. Evening ball. Mingling of classes. Copper tables. Dresses and decorations. Indian bankers. Male and female. Decorum habit. Holders of banks. Female gambler. Robbery. Anecdote. Bet. Casa de moneda. Leave San Angel. Celebration. Address. Cross and diploma. Reply. Presentation of a sword. Discourses and addresses. Reflections. 10th June. One year since our last road of San Augustine, an entire year has fled swiftly away on rushing pinions to add its unit to the rolling century. And again on a bright morning in June, we set off for the hospitable San Antonio, where we were invited to breakfast and to pass the night on the second day of the FET. We found a very brilliant party assembled, the family with all its branches, the ex-minister Cuevas with his handsome sister-in-law, La Guerra Rodriguez, with one of her beautiful granddaughters, daughter of the Marquille of GE, now making her first appearance in Mexico and various other agreeable people. The first day of the FET, a rumor was afloat that an attack was to be made on the banks by the FET that they expected to procure the Sinnos of war to the extent of a million of dollars, and then intended to raise a grito in Mexico, taking advantage of the temporary absence of the President and his officers. The plan seemed rather feasible and the report true or false was current yesterday, but if there was any truth in it, the discovery has been made in time for nothing has occurred. San Augustine appeared even gayer and even more crowded than it was last year. We spent the day at the E.S. and went with them to a box in the plaza to see the cock-fight which I had no particular pleasure, I must confess, in witnessing again, but went for the sake of those who had not seen it before. The general Cue de Sille was exceeding gay, and the improvement in the dress of the ladies since last year was very striking. There were neither diamonds nor pearls among the most fashionable. The bonnets were chiefly Parisian, as were many of the gowns. One box looked a veritable part of rare flowers. The ladies of our party wore dresses and bonnets as simple, fresh and elegant as could be seen in any part of the world. A young, entitled heiress, newly arrived from her distant estates wore pink satin with a white hat and feathers, and we observed that according to the ancient San Augustine fashion she changed her dress four or five times a day. But the ladies may dress and may smile and may look their very best. They are little thought of this day in comparison with the one all-powerful, all-pervading object. It is even whispered that one cause of the more than usual crowd at San Augustine this year is that many failures are expected in mercantile houses and that the heads of these houses or their agents are here on the desperate hope of retrieving their falling fortunes. A good deal of play on a small scale goes on in the private houses among those who do not take much part in the regular gambling, but all are interested more or less even strangers, even ladies, even ourselves. Occasional news is brought in and received with deep interest of the state of the banks, of the losses or gains of the different individuals, or of the results of the vacas, a sort of general purse into which each puts in two or three ounces. By different stragglers from the gambling houses who have themselves only ventured a few ounces and who prefer the society of ladies to that of the Monte players, these are generally foreigners and chiefly English. We found the road to the Calvario where as usual there was a ball in the afternoon blocked up with carriages and the hill itself covered with gay figures who were dancing as well as a tremendous crowd would permit. This was really tolerably Republican. The women generally redressed as the better classes of mehicans used to be, years ago and not so many years neither, and as many in the country still are, in blonde dresses with very short petticoats, open silk stockings in white satin shoes, and such a collection of queer bonnets has probably never been seen since the days when les Angléses, pourrières, first set foot on Gaelic shores. Some were like small steeples, others resembled helmets, some were like sugar loaves and most seemed to have been set on for convenience sake all the way out. Amidst these were a good sprinkling of pretty hair-balls and Paris dresses, but they belonged to the more fashionable classes. The scene was amusing from its variety, but we did not remain long as it threatened rain. As we looked back the crowd on the hill presented the appearance of a bed of butterflies dancing with black ants. We turned to the blanks to dinner, which was very handsome and entirely French. There were about twenty-eight persons at table, some of them looked as if they had rather lost than otherwise. After dinner music and conversation on the events and probabilities of the day till it was time to dress for the ball at the plaza. We however preferred going to a box, which saves the trouble of dressing. Besides being de mucho tono, very fashionable, but when we arrived not a box was to be had. The crowd was so great and there were so many people of tono, besides ourselves, who had preferred doing the same thing. So we were obliged to content ourselves with retreating to a third row of benches on the floor after persuading at least a dozen of very good-natured women to turn out in order to let us in. We were afterwards joined by the blank minister and his wife. The ball looked very gay and was prodigiously crowded and exceedingly amusing. There were people of all classes, modistas and carpenters, shop boys, tailors, hatters and hoisers mingled with all the hoton of Mexico. Every shop boy considered himself entitled to dance with every lady, and no lady considered herself as having a right to refuse him and then to dance with another person. The senora de blank, a most hybrid and dignified person, danced with a stable boy in a jacket and without gloves, and he appeared particularly gratified at the extraordinary opportunity, thus afforded him of holding her white gloves in his brown paws. These fellows naturally select the first ladies as their partners and strange as it may seem, there is nothing in their behavior that the most fastidious can complain of. They are perfectly polite, quiet and well conducted, and what is more remarkable go through a quadrie as well as their neighbors. The ball was quietness itself until near the end when the wind instruments were suddenly seized with a fit of economy, the time they were paid for having probably expired and stopped short in the midst of a waltz upon which the gentleman waltzers shouted, Viento! Viento! at the full extent of their voices, clapping their hands, refusing to dance, and entirely drowning the sound of some little jingling guitars which were patiently twanging on until the hired sons of Aeolus had to resume their labours. There were some pretty faces among the secondary class of small shopkeepers, but their beauty is not striking and takes a long time to discover, especially Fagotis as they are in their overloaded dresses. Amongst the handsomest of the higher classes were the Senora C.S. and a daughter of the Marquis G.E. On the third night of the Fet, C.N. and I having left the ballroom about ten o'clock, we walked out in the direction of the copper tables which filled the middle of the square and recovered with awnings. It is a sight that one scene can never be forgotten. Nothing but the pencil of Hogarth or the pen of boths could do justice to the various groups they assembled. It was a gambling-fet champitre conducted on the most liberal scale. On each table were great mountains of copper with an occasional sprinkling of silver. There was a perfusion of evergreens, small tin lamps dripping with oil and sloping tallow candles shedding grease upon the board. Little ragged boys acting as waiters were busily engaged in handing around pulque and chia in cracked tumblers. There was moreover an agreeable tinkling produced from several guitars and even the bankers condescended to amuse their guests with soothing strains. The general dress of the company consisted of a single blanket, gracefully disposed and folds about the person so as to show various glimpses of a bronze skin. To this some added a pair of mehican pantaloons and some a shirt of a doubtful colour. There were many with large hats most of which had crowns or parts of crowns but all affording free entrance to the fresh air. Generally speaking however the head was uncovered or covered only with its native thatching of long bushy tangled black hair. This might be out of compliment to the ladies of whom there were several and who ought in politeness to have been mentioned first. Nothing could be simpler than their costume consisting of a very dirty and extremely torn chemise with short sleeves a shorter petticoat and a pair of shoes generally of dirty satin. Also a rebosso and the long hair hanging down as eaves golden locks may have done in paradise. They call this place a paradise a Spanish soldier wrote his father and so I think it is, it is so full of atoms. There was neither fighting nor swearing nor high words. I doubt whether there be as much decorum at Crockford's. Indeed they were scrupulously polite to each other. At one table the banker was an enormously fat gentleman, one half of whose head was bound up with a dirty wide handkerchief over which a torn piece of hat was stuck very much to one side. He had a most erogish eye and a smile of inviting benignity on his dirty countenance. In one hand he held and tingled a guitar while he most ingeniously swept in the copper with the other. By his side sat two wretched-looking women with long matted hair their elbows on the table and their great eyes fixed upon the game with an expression of the most intense anxiety. At another the banker was a pretty little Indian woman, rather clean comparatively speaking and who appeared to be doing business smartly. A man stood near her leaning against one of the poles that supported the awning who attracted all our attention. He was enveloped in a torn blanket, his head uncovered, and his feet bare and was glaring upon the table with his great dark, haggard looking eyes, his brown face livid and his expression bordering on despair. It needed no one to tell us that on the table was his last stake. What will such a man do but go upon the road? I have heard it mentioned as a strong circumstance in favour of the Mahikan character that there is neither noise nor disturbance in these reunions, none of that uproar and violence that there would be in an English mob, for example. The fact is certain, but the inference is doubtful. These people are degraded and accustomed to endure. They are gentle and cunning and their passions are not easily aroused at least to open display, but once awakened it is neither to uproar that these passions will be excited nor by fair fight that they will be assuaged. In England a boxing match decides it dispute amongst the lower orders. In Mexico a knife and a broken head is easier mended than a cut throat. Despair must find vent in some way and secret murder or midnight robbery are the fatal consequences of this very calmness of countenance which is but a mask of nature's own giving to her Indian offspring. Another reason for this tranquility is the habit of gambling in which they have indulged from childhood and which has taught them that neither high words nor violence will restore a single dollar once fairly lost, and in point of fairness everything is carried on with the strictest honour as among gamblers of high degree. While high life below stairs is thus enacting and these people are courting fortune in the fresh air, the gentle manly gamblers are seated before the green cloth-covered tables, with the gravity befitting so many cabinet councils, but without their mystery, for doors and windows are thrown open, and both ladies and gentlemen may pass in and out and look on at the game, if they please. The heaps of ounces look temptingly and make it appear a true El Dorado, nor is there any lack of creature comforts to refresh the flagging spirits. There are supper-spread tables covered with savoury meats to appease their hunger and with generous wines to gladden their hearts, and the gentleman who surrounded that board seemed to be playing instead of monte, an excellent knife and fork. You must not suppose that those who hold gambling tables are the less considered on that account. On the contrary, as the banks generally win, they are amongst the richest and consequently the most respected men in Mexico. These bankers are frequently Spaniards who have found gambling the readiest stepping-stone to fortune. Senor Blanc explained to me one plan of those who hold the banks a sort of hedging by which it is next to impossible that they can lose. For example, one of these gentlemen proposes to his friends to take a share in a vacca, each contributing a few ounces. Having collected several hundred ounces, they go to play at his bank. If they win, he receives his share of course, and if they lose, his bank wins the whole. It is proceeding upon the principle of heads I win, tails you lose. At the tables few words are spoken. The heaps of gold change masters, but the masters do not change countenance. I saw but one person who looked a little out of humour, and he was a foreigner. The rich man adds to his store, and the poor man becomes a beggar. He is ruined, but makes no sign. The ladies who have collected ounces and made purses send their friends and admirers to the tables to try their luck for them, and in some of the inferior houses that senoras of a lower class occasionally try their fortune for themselves. I saw one of these who had probably lost by no means taking it coolly. She looked like an overcharged thunder-cloud, but whether she broke forth in anger or in tears, thunder or rain we did not stay to see. In short, it is an all pervading mania, and as man is a bundle of habits, the most moral persons in this country, always accepting one or two ladies who express their opinion strongly against it, see nothing in it to condemn and are surprised at the effect it produces on a stranger. And indeed, after a few years' residence here, a foreigner almost becomes reconciled to these abuses by the veil of decorum with which they are covered. We return to San Antonio by the brightest possible moonlight and in perfect safety, it being on the high road to Mako and therefore guarded by soldiers. We heard the next morning that a nephew of General B.S., who had ventured upon going by a crossroad to his house at Misquake, has been attacked and robbed of his winnings besides being severely wounded. These being the natural consequences, the morale to the story can excite no surprise. The robbers who in hopes of plunder flocked down at the time of the FET, like Sopilotes seeking carry and hide themselves among the barren rocks of the Pedregal and render all crossroads insecure, except with a very strong escort. An anecdote was related to us this morning by a member of the cabinet, a striking one amongst the innumerable instances of Fortune's Caprices. A very rich Spaniard, proprietor of several Haciendas, attended the FET at San Augustine, and having won three thousand ounces, ordered the money to be carried in sex to his carriage and prepared to return to Mako along with his wife. His carriage was just setting off when a friend of his came out of an adjoining house and requested him to state a breakfast to which he agreed. After breakfast there being a montetable in the house at which some of his acquaintances were playing, he put down two ounces and lost. He continued playing and losing until he had lost his three thousand ounces which were sent for and transferred to the winners. He still continued playing with a terrible infatuation till he had lost his whole fortune. He went on blindly, staking one Hacienda after another and property of all sorts until the son which had risen upon him a rich and prosperous man, set, leaving him a beggar. It is said that he bore this extraordinary and sudden reverse with the utmost equanimity. He left a son whom we have seen at San Augustine where he earns his livelihood as croupere at the gambling tables. 29th. No particular occurrence has taken place since the FET, a visit from the new secretary of delegation and Atache, a diplomatic dinner at the blank ministers, much going and coming and riding on the subject of a house in Mako, a correspondence concerning the sale of our furniture, mules, etc., etc., a good deal of interest excited by a bet between two English gentlemen as to whether it were possible for one of them to ride from Mako to San Angel in twenty minutes which feet have performed, starting from the gate called El Niño Perdido and reaching the old church of San Angel within the given time. These, I think, are the most remarkable circumstances that have taken place. We are now in treaty for the furnished apartments of the director of the Casa de Moneda, the Mint, a great building next to the palace from which upwards of one thousand three hundred millions of coined gold and silver have issued since the beginning of the sixteenth century. The house is a palace in extent and solidity, and the residences of the director is very spacious and handsome, besides having the great advantage of being furnished. We expect to return to Mako in a few days. Casa de Moneda, 6th July Here we are, re-established in Mako for a short time at least, and not without difficulty has it been accomplished. We left the country with some regret as this is the pleasantest time of the year for being there, and everything was looking green and beautiful. We came in ourselves in a loaded carriage, and in advance fourteen asses loaded with boxes, four Indians with a ditto, and two enormous loaded carts, one drawn by four and another by eight mules. We were a regular caravan as our friend the Alcalde called us. Imagine the days of packing and unpacking consequent thereupon. On the first of July the victory gained by the government over the Federalist Party was celebrated with great acclaim. The President was presented with a diamond cross valued at six thousand dollars and General Valencia with a splendid jewel-hilted sword of great value. Yesterday morning, says the newspaper of the day, a general peeling of the bells and the usual salutes announced to the capital that it was a day of rewards and of universal joy. At twelve o'clock his Excellency the President of the Republic went to the palace to fulfill the formality of closing the sessions and to receive from the hands of the President of the Chamber of Deputies the diploma and cross of honor mentioned in the Decrees of the 2nd of March and 2nd of May of this year. An immense multitude occupied the galleries and the President, Don J. M. Maria Bravo addressed his Excellency, General Bustamante, in the following speech. Citizen General and illustrious President, nations never forget the distinguished services that are done to them, nor fail to reward those heroic actions performed for the common good. Sooner or later they show themselves grateful and reward as they ought their good and valiant servants. The Mehecan Nation has not forgotten yours and its Congress as ever born in mind, those which you performed for it at that happy period, when the unfortunate hero of Iguala, causing the voice of freedom to resound to the remotest lands of the Mehecan territory, gave a terrible lesson to those who wish to subdue weak nations with no other title than that of strength. You were one of the first and most valiant chiefs who placed by his side assisted in this important and happy work. You it was who showed to the tyrant in the fields of Hucci. As Capuzalco and others that the sword of the Mehecans once unsheathed for liberty and justice fights without softening or breaking and knows how to triumph over its enemies even when superior forces oppose it. You it was, in short, who with intrepid valor cooperated in re-establishing a liberty which, torn from the ancient children of the soil, was converted by their oppressors into a hard and shameful tyranny. History has already consecrated her pages to you. She will record to posterity your heroic deeds and Congress has already visited itself in rewarding such interesting services. If some Mehecans erring in their opinions by a vitality in this country have disowned them, making an attempt against your personal liberty, notwithstanding the dignity of the First Magistrate, trampling upon laws and overturning order, they have at length been obliged to respect you and your valor, firmness and decision have made them preserve the consideration due to an ancient chief of our independence and to a First Magistrate who has known how to set an example of subordination to the laws and to give with dignity lessons of valor and of honorable conduct. A diploma and a cross are the rewards which the sovereign Congress has decreed for these services and merits. Do not regard in the one the effaceable characters in which it is written nor bedazzled by the brilliancy of the other. See in both a proof of your country's gratitude and engraving it in your soul, continue to give testimonies to your country that she is the first object of your care, that your watchings, fatigues and labours are dedicated only to procure for her those benefits which may bring about the durable and solid peace that she so desires and for which you would, if necessary, sacrifice yourself on her altars. Do not forget that today she shows herself grateful and that this is the day decreed by the August National Representative body to put you in possession of the title and insignia which manifests her gratitude. I, in the name of the Congress, congratulate you on this fortunate event and having the honor to fulfill the desire of the sovereign power placed in your hands, this diploma of deserving reward from your country and give you possession of this cross. His Excellency, having received the diploma and cross above mentioned with his native modesty, replied thus, in hearing by the organ of the August National Representation, the great encomious with which it favours me, putting me at the same time, in possession of these precious gifts, my soul overflows with ineffable pleasure and is overwhelmed with the deepest gratitude. My satisfaction and my glory are immense. What could I have done that thus the generous hand of the representatives of the making people should load me with honors? Have my trifling services been able to fix the attention of the country on whose alters have been sacrificed so many and such illustrious heroes of liberty? My glory would have been yet greater had I like them descended to the sepulcher when the son of victory brightened the existence of this sovereign and independent nation to the glory of the universe. The honors which I received today are certainly great but I should have preferred them before the never sufficiently mourned catastrophe of the immortal Yotur Pide. Let us throw a thick veil over so irreparable a loss. It is true that surviving such great misfortunes I have been enabled to consecrate my existence and my diligence to the peace, order, and felicity of this beloved country. But how difficult is the conduct of those who govern in the midst of the conflict of civil dissensions? In these my conscience has chosen and my resolution has never vacillated between ignominy and honor. Do I on this account deserve the national gratitude and magnificence manifested by such distinguished rewards? I return for them to the representatives of the nation, my frankest gratitude, fixing my mind only on the grandeur and benevolence of the sovereign power which rewards me in the sacred name of the country. I shall preserve till death these precious objects which render my name illustrious as a soldier and as a supreme magistrate. They will stimulate me more and more every day to all kinds of sacrifices even to the giving up my life should it be necessary that I may not be unworthy of the favorable conception and of the recompense with which the worthy representatives of so magnanimous a nation have today honored me. Receive, gentlemen, this frank manifestation of my sentiments and of my fervent vows for the felicity of the republic with the most sincere protestations of my eternal gratitude. The liveliest emotions of satisfaction I still quote from the Diario, followed this expressive discourse. Joy was painted on every countenance. The frank satisfaction which everyone felt gave to this act a solemnity which words are incapable of describing. His Excellency accompanied by the corporations and by a brilliant and numerous concourse, then passed to the hall of the court-martial to put in possession of His Excellency General D. Gabriel Valencia, the sword of honor which the August national representation had granted him for his loyal and valiant conduct in the affair of July of 1840. His Excellency the President began the ceremony by expressing his sentiments to His Excellency the Café de la Plana Mayor, head of the staff in these terms. Citizen General, in this day the most flattering of my life in which the August representatives of the nation have just put me in possession of the rewards granted to my small services. I fulfill the law which imposes upon me the grateful task of presenting you with a sword of honor with which their munificence has also chosen to remunerate yours. Receive it as the distinguished reward of your loyalty and of the valor with which you fought at that memorable period, from the 15th to the 26th of July, defending with bravery the Constitution and Supreme Powers of the Republic. I congratulate myself with you, not doubting that you will always implore the edge of this steel in defense of the honor of the sacred rites and of the laws of this country. Yes, General, of this beloved country to whom we owe all kinds of sacrifices, yes, of this beloved mother who now more than ever reclaims the fraternal union of all her children to conquer the internal and external enemies who oppose her felicity and aggrandizement, let us pledge ourselves to correspond thankfully to the generosity with which the representatives of the nation have rewarded us, and let us march united in the same path which honor and duty traced out for us in that day of honorable memory for the defenders of the laws. Eternal praise to the brave soldiers and citizens who cooperated with us in the establishment of order. To which, General Valencia replied, that a correspondent reward should follow an heroic action, nothing more natural, but to remunerate a service which does not go beyond the sphere of ordinary things, such as mine in the affair of the 15th to the 26th of July, 1840, by such a noble distinction as the sword of honor with which your excellency has deigned to gird me in the name of the national congress, of this the magnanimity of the sovereignty is alone capable, and so it is that I remain annihilated by a present worthy of the ages of the Roman senate and republic. What did I do your excellency in those days that any one of my countrymen would not have done better? Nothing, sir, so that in receiving the sword of honor my confusion equals my doubt as to my place in the gratitude of the congress which has given it to me, of your excellency who has deigned to present it to me and of my worthy countrymen who bestowed it that I might wear it. In this condition your excellency of content and satisfaction I can say no more, but that I hope your excellency will manifest to congress my external gratitude, that your excellency will receive my noble acknowledgments and my companions, the assurance that every time I put it on I shall remember the names of all and each of them who accompanied me on the 15th of july of 1840 together with a pleasure that to them I owe so great a mark of respect. Amongst the congratulations given to the president, the following congratulations from his excellency general Valencia to his excellency the president on his receiving the decoration of the cross of honor from congress is very remarkable. God said the first day of the creation of the world when it was in a state of chaos let there be light and there was light and God saw his work and pronounced it good with how much more reason ought the garrison of Mexico to do so every day in which by any action the 15th of july 1840 is celebrated in which by their strength and heroic valor that passage of genesis was politically repeated in this capital society arose in chaos its president is taken authorities no longer exist and those who ought to save them are converted into their oppressors God said let there be light and there was light the honorable troops reunited in the citadel in the midst of chaos said let order be reestablished let the supreme magistrate beset at liberty and let things resume their proper march order was reestablished your excellencies was set free and the political body followed the regular path without which no society exists so it is that those worthy troops who thus said thus undertook and thus accomplished now also resemble the creator of the world hoy también se asemejan al creador del mundo in his content when satisfied with his work the cross which has been worthily placed on your excellencies breast this day reflects in such a singular manner upon the hearts of the valiant men of that period that their souls are expanded in contemplating it by the honor which results to them from it may your excellency be happy one and a thousand times with such a noble and worthy decoration let your excellency receive in it the sincere congratulations of the garrison of mexico which figures in each stone of this cross like the stars in the firmament this ceremony being concluded the two rewarded generals presented themselves on the principal balcony of the palace in front of which passed the brilliant column of honor at its head marched the commandant general don valentin canalizzo and the brilliancy neatness and elegance which all the core of the garrison displayed is above all pre-war garrison of mexico and the brilliancy neatness and elegance which all the core of the garrison displayed is above all praise when the regiment had passed a sumptuous entertainment was served in one of the halls of the minister of war in which elegance could taste and propriety rivaled one another while repeated toasts showed the most sincere joy united with the most patriotic and fraternal sentiments rain having begun to fall at about three in the afternoon the paseo was on this account not so crowded as might have been expected nevertheless the military bands were present and at six in the evening their excellencies generals postamante in valencia having presented themselves there were received with vivas and universal joy at night the chiefs and officers of the plana mayor gave a ball in the college of mineria and the theater of new mexico dedicated its entertainment to his excellency the president nothing disturbed the joy of this day one sentiment alone of union and cheerfulness overflowed in the capital proving to those illustrious generals the unanimous applause with which may he can see their country reward the distinguished services of their children who are so deserving of their love and gratitude notwithstanding the ineffable joy which according to the diario is generally felt on this occasion there are many who doubt the policy of the celebration at a time when the troops are unpaid when the soldiers wounded at the last pronunciamento are refused their pensions while the widows and orphans of others are vainly suing for assistance at the best say those who cavilla on the subject it was a civil war a war between brothers a subject of regret and not of glory of sadness and not of jubilee as for general valencia's congratulation to the president in which he compares the honorable troops to the supreme being the re-establishment of order in mexico to the creation of the world from chaos it is chiefly incomprehensible perhaps he is carried away by his joy and gratitude and personal affection for bustamante perhaps he has taken a leaf from a translation of bombastic furioso one thing is certain the whole affair had a brilliant appearance and the handsome carriages fine horses gaily dressed officers and soldiers together with the military music and the crowds of people collected produced an imposing effect and of letter the forty first letter the forty second of life in mexico this is a libervox recording all libervox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit libervox.org life in mexico by frances calderon de la barca letter the forty second italian opera artists male and female prima donna lucía de la mermur some disappointment second representation improvement romeo and julieta la rici la senora cesari the mint false coining repetition of lucía procession by night a spanish beauty discriminating audience a little too simple gold embroidery santiago pilgrims old indian custom soiree mexico by moonlight mysterious figure archbishop visceral 13th july we little expected to be still here at the opening of the new italian opera and had consequently given up our box senor roca who went to italy to bring out the requisites has arrived at the end of a wonderfully short period with its singers male and female the new dresses decorations etc and the first opera lucía de la mermur was given last week the theater is the former teatro des gallos an octagonal circus which has been fitted up as elegantly as circumstances would permit and is the transition from the crowing of cox to the soft notes of julieta rendered necessary the prima donna assoluta is the senora anniade castellan de giampietro born in paris bred in milan the prima donna sopano is the senora de rici and the second donna is called branzanti the first tenor is senor giampietro husband to the prima donna and the second tenor is a singer alberti bozetti the first base is senor tomassi and the bufo base senor spontini they have been so much prone and public expectation has been so much excited that we supposed it probable that the first evening at least would be a failure to a certain extent besides the mehican audience if not very experienced is decidedly musical and they have already had a pretty good opera here have heard madame albini la cesare garcia the father of malibran and the bura stays of gai therefore can compare the first evening the castellan made her appearance as lucia she is about twenty slight unfair with black hair graceful and with a very sweet clear and pure young voice also very correct the tenor rests upon his wife's laurels he looks well but little more can be said in his praise tomassi has some good notes and a fine figure of the others who sang that evening there is little to be said the theater is extremely well got up the dresses are new and rich and the decorations and scenery remarkably good the public however were disappointed they had prepared for wonders and were not satisfied with a fair performance the applause is were few and far between the castellan was not called for in the following day a certain degree of discontent pervaded the aristocracy of the capital at the second representation of the same opera things mended the voice of the castellan was appreciated applause is rolled out and long and at the end of the opera she and the director were called for and received with enthusiasm she seems likely to become a favorite last evening we had a Romeo and Julieta in which la riche and la cesare made their appearance the former as Julieta the latter as Romeo the riche is a thin young woman with a long pale face black eyes and hair long neck and arms and large hands extremely pretty is said off the stage but very ineffective on it but both on and off with a very distinguished air her voice is extensive but wanton cultivation and decidedly P. Henish besides that she's apt to go out of tune her style of dress was excessively unbecoming to her style of beauty she wore a tight white gown a tight blue satin peaked body with long tight blue sleeves the public were indulgent but it was evident that they were disappointed la cesare highly married and who for the last three years has not appeared upon the stage came out as a Romeo with tunic and mantle white silk stockings hat and feathers etc she was very much frightened and ill at ease and it required all the applause with which the public greeted the entree of their former favorite to restore her to self-possession she looked remarkably well tall handsome beautifully formed rather pale with fine dark eyes dark hair and moustaches her acting was greatly superior as much so as was her beauty to any of the others she has more knowledge of the theater more science taste and energy than any of them but her voice a soft contralto is out of use and feeble the theater besides is ill-constructed for the voice and must have a bad effect upon the fullness and tone on the whole it seems doubtful whether the opera will endure long were we going to remain here i should trust that it might be supported for with all its faults and drawbacks it is decidedly the best public exhibition in mexico the coup d'oeil was exceedingly pretty as well the boxes were crowded and the ladies were in full dress july 20th as we are living in the mint the directors have called on us and this morning they came to invite us to descend into the lower regions to see the silver coin we went all over this immense establishment a fine picture of decayed magnificence built about 110 years ago by the spaniards dirty ill-capped the machinery rude the workmen discontented its fine vaulted roofs that look like the interior of a cathedral together with that grandiose style which distinguished the buildings of the spaniards in mexico form a strong contrast with the occupants we saw the silver bars stretched out the dollars cut and whitened and stamped and in one place we saw the machines for coining false money which have been collected in such numbers that there is hardly room for them we saw the place with silver and gold is tested and the room with the metals amongst which are some ancient roman persian and english but especially spanish and many of the time of charles the third when we were looking at which an old gentleman exclaimed would to heaven those days would return without doubt the general feeling this old man had been 44 years in the casa de moneda and had lived under several visoros he could remember when a boy being sent with a commission to the visoroi de via guido and being very much frightened but soon reassured by the contraception of the representative of majesty he spoke of the flourishing condition of the mint in those days which coined 27 millions annually and was a royal house he said that the visoros used to praise them and thank them for their exertions that the house was then kept in the most perfect order for the principal officers wearing a uniform etc hereupon another old gentleman took up the theme and improved upon it and told us that on one occasion they had one million three hundred thousand dollars worth of gold in the house and described the visit of the vice queen yet to riguari who came to see it and sat down and looked around her in amazement at the quantity of gold she saw accumulated this old gentleman had been 30 years in the mint and seemed as though he had never been anywhere else as if he were part and parcel in it and had been coined and beat out and clipped there hearing him another fat man rather uncapped looking than otherwise began to bewail the state of the time still it was a chorus universal were all sang in one key one had a very large underhanging lip with a kind of tragic comic countenance and was constantly making lugubrious puns another who seemed bred to the mint though by his account the mint was not bred to him was insatiably curious as a man born in a mint might be we passed about three hours in a mixture of admiration of the past and sorrow for the present and were reconducted to our domicile by the poor employees who seemed to think that a Spanish minister was the next best to a Spanish visoroi or of anything they had seen for some time the past is nothing and at last the future will be but the past says lord abiron here the past is everything and the future answer it who can we were assured while wandering at the number of machines for false coining which had been collected there are twice that number now in full force in mexico but that they belong to such distinguished personages the government is afraid to interfere with them besides this there is now no sufficient punishment for this crime a capital offense in the days of the Spanish government a lady here he said to have exclaimed with much simplicity on hearing her husband accused of false coining i really wonder why they make so much noise about it it seems to me that my husband's copper is as good as any other 24th we went last evening to the opera which was a repetition of lucia as it appears they cannot venture in the face of public disapprobation to repeat Romeo and Juliet at present as we were passing through the square the carriage suddenly drew up the coachman and footman and covered their heads and an immense procession came passing along the cathedral with lights and military music there were officers in full uniform with their heads uncovered a long file of monks and priests and a carriage carrying the host surrounded by hundreds of people on foot all bearing lighted torches a band of military music accompanied the procession all which astonished us as it was no fed day when at length being able to pass along we arrived at the opera we were informed that they were carrying the viaticum to a rich acquaintance of ours a general who has been indisposed for some time and whose illness has now exhibited fatal symptoms for him then these great cathedral bells are tolling heavily for him the torches and the pompous procession the sandaled monks and the officers in military array while two bands of music are playing at his door and another in front of the cathedral and in the midst of these sounds of monkish hymn and military music the soul is preparing to wing its flight alone and unattended for the sweet notes of lucia drown all other from our ears if not from our thoughts in a house not many hundred yards off they minister the host to the dying man while here la castellan with her pretty french graces and italian singing is drawing tears from our eyes for fictitious sorrows the theater was pretty well filled though there were some empty boxes sights more hideous in the eyes of actors than toothless mouths we sat with madame la barone de blanc and nearly opposite was madame blanc related to the principe de la pas a handsome woman with a fine bohemian cast of face dark in complexion with glittering teeth brilliant eyes and dark hair la castellan sang very well with much clearness precision and facility she is certainly graceful and pretty but except in her method more french than italian her style suits lucia but i doubt her having l'art noble sufficient for a norma oré similanes the base improves upon acquaintance but the handsome tenor is not the audience seemed to me both indulgent and discriminating they applauded the pretty prima donna con furor they praised the base when he deserved it the tenor when it was possible but where he sang falls nothing could extort them from a solitary viva this discrimination makes their applause worth having and proceeds less from experience or cultivation than from a musical instinct in a visit we made this morning we were shown a piece of embroidery which from its splendor and good taste is worthy of observation though by no means uncommon here we went to call on the wife of a judge who showed us all through their beautiful house which looks out on the alameda in one of the rooms their daughter was engaged on a piece of embroidery for the altar of the chapel the ground was the very richest and thickest white satin the design was a garland of vine leaves with bunches of grapes the vine leaves are beautifully embroidered in fine gold and the grapes were composed of amethyst i can't conceive nothing richer and more tasteful than the general effect the gold embroidery done in mexico is generally very beautiful and there are many ladies who embroider in great perfection there is an amazing quantity of it used in the churches and in military uniforms i have also seen beautiful gold embroidered bald dresses but they are nearly out of fashion we hear that general blank though still ill is likely to recover twenty fifth this being the day of santiago the patron saint of spain cn was invited by the padres to san francisco to attend a mass in the church there we were shown to the tribuna gallery of the countess is santiago where they gave us chairs and put down a piece of carpet cn and the rest of the legation wearing the body of the church in velvet chairs with lighted tapers in their hands the saint was carried in procession going out by the principal door and making a tour of the streets and returning by a side door the music was pretty good especially one soprano voice twelve little boys were placed on crimson velvet benches on either side of the altar representing pilgrims of galicia of which santiago is the capital handsome little fellows belonging to respectable families dressed in robes of dark greener crimson or violet colored velvet with falling lace collars and the neck ornamented with gold and silver shells a large pilgrims hat fastened on behind and hanging down and in their hands staffs with gold bells they were beautiful children and all behaved with becoming gravity and decorum during the ceremony walking with much dignity in the procession after the function we went out of santiago an old church near mexico where the indians annually come in procession on this day and sell their fruit flowers pulque etc all the waste ground near the church was covered with green booths and there was a great crowd of carriages and horsemen and people on foot the troops were drawn out escorting the procession to the church but though the scene was curious as the remnant of an old established ceremony and the indians with their booths and flowers and great show fruit were all very picturesque the sun was so intense that after walking about a little while and buying tunas and nuts and peaches we returned home together with aguerra rodriguez who was in the carriage with us and giving us a lively description of what this vet used to be in former days had a visit the same morning from the senora m whom i think even handsomer by daylight then she appeared to be at the opera not always the case with the dark beauties 26 another representation of vacas romeo and julieta with a second appearance of larici music and rici seemed considered a failure the senora cesare made the handsomest of romeos as usual but was ill and out of spirits the opera as a whole was coldly received the boxes and pit were nearly empty and larici seems unlikely to gain any favor with the public though it must be confessed that she looked better was more becomingly dressed and both sang and acted better than the preceding night yesterday we went to a soiree at the blank ministers madame castellan and her tenor were there and had come for me dinner given by a rich curate to the whole corp operatic from the prima donna down to the joer du fagote and even to the tailor who makes the opera dresses and his wife this rich padre it is said spends a great part of his fortune in entertaining actors and singers la castellan permission to that effect having been obtained from the manager for it is against their agreement to perform in private houses sang several eras to the piano with much expression especially from robert le diable and ninia pasa per amore but i prefer her voice in the theater she is not at all beautiful but has a charming face with a very musical expression we returned home by moonlight the most flattering medium through which mexico can be viewed with its broad and silent streets and splendid old buildings whose decay and abandonment are softened by the silvery light its ancient churches from which the note of the organ occasionally come peeling forth mingled with faint blasts of music born on the night wind from some distant procession or with a soft music of a hymn from some neighboring convent the white-robed monk the veiled female even the ragged beggar added the picture by daylight his rags are too visible frequently as the carriages roll along to the opera or as at a late hour they return from it they are suddenly stopped by the appearance of the mysterious coach with its piebald mules and the eye surrounded by rays of light on its panels a melancholy apparition for it has come from the house of mourning probably from the bed of death then by the moonlight the kneeling figures on the pavements seemed as if carved in stone the city of mexico by moonlight the environs of mexico at daybreak these are the hours for viewing both to advantage and for making us feel how all but the spirit of man is divine in front of our house i should say of the mint is the archbishop's palace and in front of this palace an object which has greatly excited our curiosity it is an old man who whether as a penance or from some motive which we do not know kneels wrapped in his serape beside the wall of the arzo bisbado from sunset till midnight or later for we have frequently gone out at nine in the evening and left him kneeling there and on our return at one in the morning have found him in the same position he asks no alms but kneels there silent and motionless hour after hour as if in the performance of some vow we made a call this evening on the archbishop in his own palace an enormously large building a sort of street like this casa de moneda he received us very cordially and looked very comfortable without his robes of state in a fine cloth dressing gown lined with violet colored silk august first we had a visit last evening from one of the directors of the mint a curious and most original genius a mehican who has served nearly 30 years in that and other capacities and who after speaking of the different visceros he had seen proceeded to give us various anecdotes of the visceroi la villa chiquedo the most honored for his justice renowned for his energy and feared for his severity of the whole dynasty our friend was moved to enthusiasm by the sight of an old-fashioned but very handsome musical clock which stands on a table in the drawing room in which he says was brought over by this visceroi and was no doubt considered a miracle of art in those days some of the anecdotes he told us are already generally known here but his manner of telling them was very interesting and he added various particulars which we had not heard before besides the stories themselves seem to me so curious and characteristic that however much they lose by being tamely written instead of dramatized as they are by him I am tempted to give you one or two specimens but my letter is getting beyond all ordinary limits and your curiosity will no doubt keep cool till the arrival of another packet end of letter the 42nd letter the 43rd of life in Mexico this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Life in Mexico by Francesca Oderón de la Barca letter the 43rd de Villaguejido the false merchant and the lady the visceroi the unjust spanyard the indian and the golden ounces horrible murder details oath country family the spot of blood the mother unknowingly denounces her son arrest of the three confession execution the visceroi fulfills his pledge paving of the streets severity to the monks solitary damsel box on the ear pension morning concert new minister street of the sad indian traditions a farewell audience inscription on a tomb august 3rd a lady of fortune owing to some combination of circumstances found herself in difficulties and an immediate want of a small sum of money done blank being her compadre and a respectable merchant she went to him to state her necessities and offered him a case of valuable jewels as security for repayment provided he would advance her eight hundred dollars he agreed and the bargain was concluded without any written document the lady depositing her jewels and receiving the sum at the end of a few months her temporary difficulties being ended she went to her compadres house to repay the money and receive back her jewels the man readily received the money but declared his astonished comadre that as to the jewels he had never heard of them and that no such transaction had taken place the lady indignant at the merchant's treachery instantly repaired to the palace of the vice king hoping for justice from this western Solomon though unable to conceive how it could be obtained she was instantly received by Revieca Hiddo who listened attentively to her account of the circumstances had you no witnesses set the count none replied she did no servant passing her out during the transaction no one the visor I reflected a moment does your compadre smoke no sir said the lady astonished at this irrelevant question and perhaps the more so as the counts aversion to smoking was so well known that none of his smoking subjects venture to approach him without having taken ever precaution to dead in any odor of the fragrant weed which might lurk about their clothes or person does he take snuff said the visor I yes your excellency said his visitor who probably feared that for once his excellency's wits for wool gathering that is sufficient said the visor I retire into the adjoining chamber and keep quiet your jewels shall be restored his excellency then dispatched a messenger for the merchant who immediately presented himself I have sent for you said the visor I that we may talk over some matters in which your mercantile knowledge may be of use to the state the merchant was overwhelmed with gratitude and joy while the visor I entered into conversation with him upon various affairs connected with his profession suddenly the visor I put his hand first in one pocket then in the other with the air of a man who has mislead something ah said he my snuff box excuse me for a moment while I go to fetch it from the next room sir said the merchant permit me to have the honor of offering my box to your excellency his excellency received it as if mechanically holding it in his hand and talking till protecting some business he went out and calling an officer desired him to take that snuff box to the merchant's house asking his wife as from him by that token to deliver to the bearer a case of jewels which he had there the visor I returned to the apartment where he had left his flattered guest and remained in conversation with him until the officer returned and requesting private speech of the visor I delivered to him a jewel case which he had received from the merchant's wife Riviera Gehito then returned to his fair complainant and under pretence of showing her some rooms in the palace led her into one were amongst many objects of value the jewel case stood open no sooner had she cast her eyes upon it then she started forward in joy and amazement the visor I requested her to wait there a little longer and return to his other guest now said he before going further I wish to hear the truth concerning another affair in which you are interested are you acquainted with senora de blanc intimately sir she's my comadre did you lend her eight hundred dollars at such a date I did did she give you a case of jewels in pledge never said the merchant vehemently the money was lent without any security merely as an act of friendship and she has invented a story concerning some jewels which has not the slightest foundation in vain the visor I begged him to reflect and not by adding falsehood to treachery force him to take measures of severity the merchant with oaths persisted in his denial the visor I left the room suddenly and returned with the jewel case in his hand at which unexpected apparition the astonished merchant changed color and entirely lost his presence of mind the visor I ordered him from his presence with a severe rebuke for his falsehood and treachery and an order never again to enter the palace at the same time he commanded him to send him the next morning eight hundred dollars with five hundred more which he did and which were by the visor's order distributed amongst the hospitals his excellency said to have added a severe reprimand to the lady for having made a bargain without writing another story which I recollect is as follows a poor indian appeared before the visor I and stated that he had found in the street a bag full of golden ounces which had been advertised with the promise of a handsome reward to the person who should restore them to the owner that upon carrying them to this dawn blank he had received the bag counted the ounces extracted to which he had seen him slip into his pocket and had then reproached the poor man with having stolen part of the money and called him a thief and a rascal and instead of rewarding had driven him from the house with a visor I there was no delay immediate action was his plan detaining the indian he dispatched an officer to desire the attendance of dawn blank with his bag of ounces he came and the visor I desired him to relate the circumstances his practiced I reading his falsehood at a glance made please your excellency I lost a bag containing gold the indian now and your excellency's presence brought it to me in hopes of a reward having first stolen part of its contents I drove him from the house as a thief who instead of recompense deserves punishment stay so the visor I there is some mistake here how many ounces were there in the bag you lost 28 and how many are here but 26 count them down I see it as you say the case is clear and we have all been mistaken had this indian been a thief he would never have brought back the bag and stolen merely two ounces he would have kept the whole it is evident that this is not your bag but another which this poor man has found sir our interview is at an end continue to search for your bag of gold and as for you friend since we cannot find the true owner sweep up these 26 pieces and carry them away they are yours so saying his excellency bowed out the discomforted cheat and the overjoyed rustic mr blank says that the story he thinks is taken from something similar in an oriental tale however it may have occurred twice a horrible murder took place in 1789 during the vice royal dictatorship of riviera guido which is remarkable in two particulars the trifling circumstances which led to its discovery and the energy displayed by the visoroi contrasting strongly with a tardy execution of justice in our days there lived in mexico at that period in the street of cordovanis number 15 a rich merchant of the name of don Joaquin dongo a clerk named jose Joaquin Blanco who had formerly been in his office having fallen into vicious courses and joined in companionship with two other young men felipe adama and balthazar quintero gamblers and cockfighters with reverence beats spoken like himself formed in concert with them a plan for robbing his former master they accordingly repaired to the house one evening when they knew that dongo was from home and imitating the signal which Blanco knew the coachman was in the habit of making to the porter when the carriage returned at night the doors were immediately thrown open and the robbers entered the porter was their first victim he was thrown down and stabbed a postman who was waiting with letters for the return of the master of the house was the next and then the cook and so on until eleven lay weltering in their blood the wretches then proceeded to pick the locks at the different bureaus guided by Blanco who in his former capacity had made himself off fate of all the secrets of the house they obtained twenty two thousand dollars in specie and about seven thousand dollars worth of plate meanwhile the unfortunate master of the house returned home and at the accustomed signal the doors were opened by the robbers and on the entrance of the carriage instantly relocked seeing the porter bathed in blood and dead bodies lying at the foot of the staircase he comprehended at once his desperate situation and advancing to adama who stood near the door he said my life is in your hands but for god's sake show some mercy and do not murder me in cold blood say what sums of money you want take all that is in the house and leave me and i swear to keep your secret adama consented and dongle passed on as he ascended the stair stepping over the body of the postman he encountered kintero and to him he made the same appeal with the same success when blanco springing forward held his sword to kintero's breast and swearing a great oath exclaimed if you do not stab him i will kill you on the spot conceive for one moment the situation of the unfortunate dongle surrounded by the murdered and the murderers in his own house at the dead of the night and without a hope of assistance the suspense was momentary thus adjured kintero stabbed him to the heart the murderers then collected their spoil and it being still dark two of them got into dongle's carriage the third acting as coachman and so drove swiftly out of the gates of the city till arriving at a deserted spot not far from a village they turned the carriage and mules adrift and buried their treasure which they transported afterwards to a house in the the street of the eagle number 23 and went about their avocations in the morning as if nothing had occurred meanwhile the public consternation may be conceived when the morning dawned upon this bloody tragedy as for the visceral he swore that the murderers should be discovered and hanged before his eyes that day week immediately the most energetic measures were taken and the gates of the city shut to prevent all egress orders were given through all the different districts of the capital that every guest or visitor or border whether in in or lodging or private house should have their names given up to the police with an account of their condition occupation motives for living in mexico etc strict cognizance was taken in all the villages near the capital of every person who had passed through or entered or left the village within a certain space of time all the roads near the capital were scoured by parties of soldiers every hidden place was searched by the police every suspected house entered the funeral of the ill-fated dongho and of the other victims took place the following day and it was afterwards remembered that aldama was there amongst the foremost remarking and commenting upon this horrible wholesale buttery and upon the probabilities of discovering the murderers a country family from a neighboring village hearing of all these doings in mexico and with that love of the marvelous which characterizes persons uneducated or unaccustomed to the world determined to pay a visit to the capital and to hear at the fountain head all these wonderful stories which had probably reached them under a hundred exaggerated forms no sooner had they entered their lodgings than they were visited and examined by the police and their deposition taken down as to their motives for visiting their capital their place of birth etc as a gratuitous piece of information one of them mentioned that passing by a barber shop probably with his eyes opened in the expectation of seeing horrible sights he had observed a man talking to the barber who had a stain of blood upon his cue hair being then worn powdered and tied behind trifling as this circumstance appears to us the visceral ordered that the person who mentioned it should instantly conduct the police officers to the shop where he had observed it the shop being found the barber was questioned as to what persons he had been conversing with that morning and mentioned about half a dozen amongst others aldama who did not bear a very good reputation aldama was sent for confronted with the man who gave the information identified as the same and the stain of blood being observed he was immediately committed to prison upon suspicion being questioned as to the cause of the stain he replied that being at a cock fight on such a day as such an hour the blood from one of the dying cocks which he held had spurred it up and stained the collar of his shirt and his hair inquiries being made at the cockpit this was corroborated by several witnesses and extraordinary as it was it is most probable that the assertion was true but meanwhile the mother of blanco deeply distressed at the dissolute courses of her son took the resolution which proves more than anything else ravea gido's goodness and the confidence which all classes had in him to consult the first row as to the means of converting the young man in better habits it seems as if the hand of an avenging providence had conducted this unfortunate mother to take a step so fatal to her son she told the visro that she had in vain attempted to check him that his days and nights were spent with profligate companions in gambling houses and in cockpits and that she feared some mischief would come someday from his fighting and swearing and drinking that but a few days since he had come home late and that she had observed that his stockings were dabbled in blood and that she had questioned him upon it and that he had answered surly he had got it in the cockpit her narration was hardly concluded before blanco was arrested and placed in a separate cell of the same prison with aldama shortly after kinteto only as being the intimate friend and companion of both parties was taken up on suspicion and lodged in the same prison all being separately confined and no communication permitted between them it seems as if kinteto perhaps the least hardened of the three was struck with a conviction that in the extraordinary combination of circumstances which had led to the arrest of himself and his companions in villainy the finger of god was too distinctly visible to permit a doubt of ultimate discovery to rest upon his mind for he confessed at once and declaring that he saw all denial was useless gave a circumstantial account of the whole he begged for nine days grace to prepare himself for death put the visoroi would grant but three when aldama confessed he made the avowal that he was guilty of a previous murder when he was alcalde of a village near mexico which was before the time of ravi agigito and for which he had been tried and acquitted he being alcalde the postman of the village was in the habit of passing by his house giving him an account of whatever money he had collected etc one evening this man stopped at aldamas and told him he was entrusted with a sum of fifteen hundred dollars to carry to a neighboring village at twelve o'clock he left aldamas house who taking a shortcut across the fields reached the postman by this other direction stabbed him and carried back the money next day when the murder was made known the alcalde in his robes of justice visited the body and affected to institute a strict search for the murderer nevertheless he was suspected and arrested but escaped by bribery and shortly after leaving the village came to the wider theater of mexico the murderers having thus made their confession were ordered to prepare for death a scaffold erected between the central gate of the palace and that which is now the principal gate of the city guards was hung with black to denote the criminals were of noble blood an immense crowd were assembled and the visoroi standing on the balcony of his palace witnessed the execution in the great square the very day and week that the murders were committed the streets were then kept in perfect order both as to paving and lighting and on one occasion having rode all through the city as was his custom to observe whether everything was in order for the holy week he observed that several parts of the different streets were unpaved and out of repair were upon sending for the head of the police he desired that these streets should be paved and in order before the holy week of which it wanted but a few days the officer declared the thing to be impossible the visoroi ordered it to be done on the penalty of losing his place early on the morning of palm sunday he's sent to know if all was in readiness and as the bells told for early mass the last stone was laid on the kaya san francisco which completed the work it is said he frequently went incognito attended by one or two aids to camp by which means like another haroon al rashid he was enabled to discover and correct hidden abuses by his orders no monk could be out of his convent after vespers walking one evening along the streets encountered a monk in the kaya san francisco taking his pleasure along after the appointed hour the visoroi walked directly to the convent and on making himself known was received by the abbot with all due respect how many monks have you in your convent father asked the visoroi fifty your excellency there are now only 49 call them over see wishes the missing brother and let his name be struck out the list was produced the names called over and only 45 monks presented themselves by order of the visoroi the five who had broken through the rules were never again admitted into the convent alas kudis excellency have lived in these hour degenerate days and beheld certain monks of a certain order drinking pulque and otherwise desporting themselves nay seen one as we but just now did from the window strolling along the street by lamp light with an yintinda indian girl tucked under his arm one more anecdote of the immortal ravi agito and i have done it was very late at night when not far from the gate of the city called the lost child in commemoration of that period when the child hesus tarred behind in jerusalem and that his parents sought for him sorrowing his excellency encountered a good looking damsel walking briskly and alone at these untimely hours yet with all quiet and modest in her demeanor wishing to try the temper of her steel or brass he left his officers a little way behind and perhaps they were not astonished well by no means certainly not when they saw the grave and severe ravi agito approach the fair maiden somewhat familiarly and request permission to accompany her in her rambles a proposal which was indignantly rejected and come said his excellency give over these heirs you are muhercia strolling about in search of adventures imagine the feelings of his excellency on receiving and reply a tremendous and well-applied box on the ear the staff rushed forward and were astonished to find the visceral with a smiling countenance watching the retreating steps of the adventurous damsel what your excellency such insolence such audacity such come come said the visceral she has proved herself worthy of our favor let instant inquiry be made as to her birth and parentage and as to her reasons for being on the streets at this hour they must be honest ones the result proved the visceral correct in his opinion she was a poor girl supporting a dying mother by giving music lessons and obliged to trudge on foot from house to house at all hours and amongst her scholars was the daughter of an old lady who lived out of the gates of the city and from whose house being that of her last visited pupil she had frequently to return late at night on being informed of these particulars his excellency ordered her a pension of three hundred dollars per annum to be continued to the day of her death and it is said she's still alive so very old this is making one's fortune by a coup de main or by a lucky hit august sixth this morning we had some very good music madame castellan and the tenor and madame cesari having passed some hours here together with madame le baronnet de blank and a few other gentlemen and ladies la castellan was very amiable and sang beautifully but looked pale and fatigued she has been very effective lately in the somnambula madame cesari was in great beauty about an hour after they had gone the new minister and his family made their entree into mexico it is now however too late frost returned till the autumn as there is a great deal of fever at veracruz nor do we entirely give up hopes as soon as sien shall be at leisure of making another journey on horseback into the interior there are however rumors of another pronunciamiento and should this be the case our present quarters next to the palace will be more distinguished than agreeable i have always had a curiosity to know why the kayak del indio triste street of the sad indian was so called we are on visiting terms with two of the three houses in that street and never pass those large black letters which tell the passenger that this is the street of the sad indian without my imagination figuring to itself that here is some tragedy connected with the conquest must have taken place it was therefore with great joy that i fell upon an article in the mosaico meicano purporting to give an explanation of this melancholy title page to an otherwise very tolerable in the way of houses but very ill paved street where amongst other handsome edifices is the house of a rich spaniard senor ro remarkable for its beautiful entrance and elegant salons it appears that there are different traditions respecting it one that shortly after the conquest a rich casique lived there who acted as a spy on his indian brethren and informed the visceral of all their plans and combinations against the government but that on one occasion having failed to inform his patrons of an intended mutiny they seized this pretext for sequestering his property that afterwards poor abandoned and despised he sat down in the corner of the street weeping his misfortune and meeting with no pity until it lengthy abstained from all food for some days and was found dead in the corner of the street sitting in the same melancholy posture that the visceral declared his wealth crown property and with intention of striking terror into the hearts of the malcontents caused a stone statue to be made representing the weeping indian that this statue was placed at the corner of the street with its back to the wall and so remained until the house being pulled down the statue was sent to the museum where it now is the street retaining the name of the sad indian but there is another tradition mentioned concerning the origin of the name more interesting and even more probable it appears that the ground now occupied by this street is the site of the palace of ayaha cattle the father of montezuma last emperor of mexico in this spacious and magnificent palace the spaniards were received and lodged and according to torquemada each in a separate apartment there were a multitude of idols in this dwelling and though they had no separate temple various feasts were dedicated to them after the conquest they were for the most part broken and destroyed and it was only lately that by accident the head of the god of the waters beautifully worked in serpentine marble was discovered there still one statue had been preserved that of an indian said to have been placed there by the Aztecs as a memorial of their sorrow at the death of montezuma to whom on account of his misfortunes they gave the name of el indio triste this was afterwards placed at the corner of the new building erected there by the spaniards and gave its name to the street it is a melancholy looking statue whom soever it may represent of an indian in a sitting posture with a most dejected and forlorn air and countenance the material is basaltic stone eleventh cn has just returned from seeing the general archives which are all in confusion and going to ruin don ignazio cueva so as the charge of them has written various works the history of the viceroy's the california's etc which were robbed or destroyed in the last pronunciamento he related the story of revivi hakihido and the jewels only differing from my friend's narrative in that he says it was not a jewel case but a diamond bracelet he assured cn that mexico in indian means below this alluding to the population who according to tradition are buried beneath the pedregal eighteenth news has arrived at general paredes pronounced in guadalajara on the eighth of the month strange rumors are afloat and it is generally supposed that santa anna is or will be the prime mover of the great changes that are predicted by many however it is talked of as very trifling as a mere movement that will soon be put down the plan which paredes has a publish is essentially military but announced as a congress which renders it very popular in the departments it has been adopted by the departments of zaka tecas durango and guanavato meanwhile everything continues here as usual we have been several times at the opera the passeos are very crowded and we had a musical soiree the other evening which was very gay but from the signs of the times will probably be our last in mexico twenty eighth this morning cn took his farewell audience of the president and the new minister was received thirtieth these few last days have chiefly been spent in paying visits of ceremony with a senora blank nevertheless we spent an hour last evening in the beautiful cemetery a little way out of the city which is rather a favorite haunt of ours and is known as the pantheon de santa maria it has a beautiful chapel attached to it where the daily mass is set for the dead and a large garden filled with flowers young trees of different kinds have been planted there and the sides of the tombs themselves in their long and melancholy array of black coffins with gold lettered inscriptions even while it inspires the saddest ideas has something soothing in its effect they are kept in perfect order and the inscriptions so not always eloquent are almost always full of feeling and sometimes extremely touching there is one year the entrance which is pathetic in its native language and though it loses much in the translation i shall transcribe it here lie the beloved remains of carmen and josep pimentel i heras the first died the 11th of june 1838 aged one year and 11 months the second on the 5th of september of 1839 in the 16th month of his existence and to their dear memory maternal love dedicates the following epitaph babes of my love my carmen and josep sons of your cherished father pimentel why have you left your mother's side for whom what motives have you had to leave me thus but hark i hear your voice and breathlessly i listen i hear you say to go to heaven mother we have left thee to see our god beloved shades if this indeed be so then let this bitter tears be turned to joy it is not me that i should mourn for you since me you have exchanged for my god to him give thanks and in your holy songs pray that your parents fate may be like yours end of letter the forty third letter the forty fourth of life in mexico this is a libru vox recording all libru vox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit libru vox dot org life in mexico by francis calderon de la barca letter the forty fourth agitation storm revolution manifesto resembling a game of chess position of the pieces appearance of the city firing state of parties comparisons commissios the people congress santa ana amnesty offered roaring of canon proclamation time to look at home the will of the nation different feelings judges house destroyed the mint and requisition preparations canonating los enanos thirty first this afternoon the clouds gathered together in gloomy masses announced a thunderstorm and at the same time a certain degree of agitation apparently pervading the city was suddenly observable from our balconies shops were shutting up people hurrying in all directions heads at all the windows and men looking out from the azoteas but as these symptoms were immediately followed by a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning and a splashing rain we trusted that the cause had been very simple but these elements of nature are wielded by the hand that called them forth and can stay them at his will and the sun breaking forth smilingly and scattering the clouds made us feel that the storm had but refreshed the parched earth and cleared the sultry atmosphere not so with the storm which has been brooding in the hearts of a handful of ambitious men and which has burst forth at last its bolts directed by no wise or merciful power and by the hands of selfish and designing and shortsighted mortals the storm though short had not passed away when news was brought us of a new revolution in mexico general valencia he who pronounced but two short months ago the high flowed and flattering speech to the president on receiving the sword of honor has now pronounced very different and much clearer manner listen to him now soldiers the despotism of the mehican government the innumerable evils which the nation suffers the unceasing remonstrances which have been made against these evils and which have met with no attention have forced us to take a step this evening which is not one of rebellion but is the energetic expression of our resolution to sacrifice everything to the common good and interest the cause which we defend is that of all mehicans of the riches of the poor of the soldier as of the civilian we want a country a government the felicity of our homes and respect from without and we shall obtain all let us not doubt it the nation will be moved by our example the arms which our country has given us for her defense we shall know how to employ and restoring her honor an honor which the government has stained by not acknowledging the total absence of morality and energy in the actual authorities the army which made her independent shall also render her powerful and free the illustrious general santa ana today marches to puebla at the head of our heroic companions at veracruz while upon kerataro already united to the valiant general paredes the brave general cortisol now begins his operations in a few days we shall see the other forces of the republican motion all cooperating to the same end the triumph is secure my friends and the cause which we proclaim is so noble that conquerors we shall be covered with glory and happen what may we shall be honored by our fellow citizens in this manifesto which is mere declamation there is no plan it appears that no one particularly counted upon general valencia and that whether fearing to be left out in the events which he saw approaching or apprehensive of being arrested by the government who suspected him he has thought it wisest to strike a blow on his own account pacheco who commanded the citadel together with generals lombardini and salas who had been ordered out to march with their respective regiments against their pronunciados are now in the citadel and in a state of revolt the two last had but just received money for the payment of their troops on the preceding day eight o'clock nothing further but that the president has salad forth on horseback from san angostin and was received with repeated vivas by the people collected in the square first september this revolution is like a game at chess in which kings castles knights and bishops are making different moves while the pawns are looking on or taking no part whatever to understand the state of the board it is necessary to explain the position of the four principal pieces santa ana bustamante paredes and valencia the first move was made by paredes who published his plan and pronounced on the eighth of august at guadalajara about the same time don fm a spanish broker who had gone to manja de clavo was sent to guadalajara and had a conference with paredes the result of which was that the plan of that general was withdrawn and it was supposed that he and santa ana had formed a combination shortly after the censor of veracruz a paper entirely devoted to santa ana pronounced in favor of the plan of paredes and santa ana with a few miserable troops and a handful of cavalry arrived at perote here he remains for the present kept in check by the government general torihon meanwhile paredes with about 600 men left to guadalajara and marched upon guanajuato and there a blow was given to the government party by the defection of general cortazar who thought fit thus to show his grateful sense of having just received the rank of general of brigade with the insignia of this new grade which the president put on with his own hands another check to the president once begun defection spread rapidly and paredes and cortazar having advanced upon kerataro found that general huvera with his garrison had already pronounced there at the moment that they were expected in mexico to assist the government against valencia paredes cortazar and huvera are now united and their forces amount to 2200 men meanwhile general valencia pressed to declare his plan has replied that he awaits the announcement of the intentions of generals paredes and santa ana and for his own part only desires the dismissal of general bustamante this then is the position of the three principal pronounced chiefs on this second day of september of the year of our lord 1841 santa ana in perote hesitating whether to advance a retreat and in fact prevented from doing either by the vicinity of general torrejon paredes in kerataro with the other revolted generals valencia in the citadel of mexico with his pronuncia dos or bustamante with generals al monte and canaliso the mark against which all these hostile operations are directed is determined it is said to fight to the last mexico looks as if it had got a general holiday shops shut up and all business is at a stand the people with the utmost apathy are collected in groups talking quietly the officers are galloping about generals in a somewhat party-colored dress with large gray hats strapped pantaloons old coats and generals belts fine horses and crimson colored velvet saddles the shopkeepers in the square have been removing their goods and money an occasional shot is heard and sometimes a volley succeeded by a dead silence the archbishop shows his reverent face now and then upon the opposite balcony of his palace looks out a little while and then retires the chief effect so far is universal idleness in man and beast the soldiers and their quadruplets accepted the position of the president however is not so bad as at first sight it might appear or as it will be if his enemies are permitted to reunite he has upwards of two thousand men twelve pieces of ordinance and though his infantry are few and he has little artillery he has good cavalry valencia has twelve hundred men twenty six pieces of ordinance with good infantry and almost all the artillery the rebels have possessed themselves of the aquedata and given liberty to those who are imprisoned for political opinions a good loophole for the escape of criminals those who understand these matters say that the principal object of the government should be to reduce the rebels to the citadel only and to occupy all the important points in its neighborhood san diego san jipolito san fernando etc but as yet this has not been done and the pronunciados are gradually extending and taking possession of these points third they are now keeping up a pretty brisk fire between san agustin and the citadel this morning the streets were covered with coaches filled with families leaving the city fourth things are becoming more complicated the rebels now occupy san jose salto de agua the college of viscinas from which all the poor girls and their teachers have fled regina san juan de la penitencia san diego and san fernando a long line of important points the president's line begins at san francisco continuing by la concepción but without a map of the city you will not understand the position of the two parties however every turret and bell freeze covered with soldiers and the streets are blocked up with troops and trenches from behind these turrets and trenches they fire at each other scarcely a soldier falling but numbers of peaceful citizens shells and bombs falling through the roofs of the houses and all this for the public good the war of july had at least a shadow of pretext it was a war of party and those who wish to establish federalism may have acted with good faith now there is neither principle nor pretext nor plan nor the shadow of reason or legality disloyalty hypocrisy and the most sorted calculation are all the motives that can be discovered and those who then affected an ardent desire for the welfare of their country have now thrown aside their masks and appear in their true colors and the great mass of the people who thus passive and oppressed allow their quiet homes to be invaded are kept in awe neither by the force of arms nor by the depth of the views of the conspirators but by a handful of soldiers who are themselves scarcely aware of their own wishes or intentions but that they desire power and distinction at any price it is said that the federalists are very much elated hoping for the eventual triumph of their party particularly in consequence of a proclamation by valencia which appeared two days ago and is called the plan of the comisios said to be written by general to mail who has gone over to the citadel and who having a great deal of classical learning toxinate of the roman committees the comisios since then the revolution has taken the name of liberal and is supported by men of name the pedrasas belderas riva palacio and others which is of great importance to valencia and has given force and consistency to his party besides this the pronunciados have the advantage of a free field from the citadel out to takubaya where it is said that certain rich bankers who are on their side are constantly supplying the citadel with cartloads of copper which they send in from thence meanwhile we pass our time very quietly in the morning we generally have visitors very early discussing the probabilities and giving us the last reports sometimes we venture out when there is no firing which is much less constant and alarming than it was last year so far we continue to have visitors in the evening and senor p and i have been playing duets on the harp and piano even though mexico is declared in a state of siege the blank minister who was here this morning does however strongly recommend us to change our quarters and to remove to takubaya which will be so troublesome that we are inclined to delay it until it becomes absolutely necessary fifth we went upon the azotea this afternoon to have a good view of the city there were people on almost all the balconies as on a fed day a picturesque group of friars of the order of la merced in their white robes had mounted upon the belfry of their church and were looking out anxiously the palace roof next our own had soldiers on it everything at that moment was still and tranquil but the conduct of the people is our constant source of surprise left entirely uncurved no one to direct them thousands out of employment many without bread they meddle with nothing do not complain and scarcely seem to feel any interest in the result how easily might such a people be directed for their good it is said that all their apathetic sympathies are in favor of bustamante some say that santa ana will arrive today some that the whole affair will be settled by treaty but neither reports nor bulletins can be depended upon as scarcely anyone speaks concerning to his true feelings or belief but according to his political party it appears that the conduct of congress in this emergency has given little satisfaction the effect to give a declaration of the national will and are as ambiguous as the delphic oracle and it is said that there are half measures and determination not to see that public opinion is against them and that a thorough change can alone undermine this military revolution will contribute more than anything to its eventual triumph the president has made use of the extraordinary powers which have been granted him by the poder conservador conservative power a singular and intermediate authority introduced into the mehican constitution to abolish the 10% on consumption and to modify the personal contribution reducing it to the richer classes alone this concession has apparently produced no effect it is said that the government troops continue to desert convinced that a revolution in which santa ana takes part must triumph four new generals have been made by the president six we went out the takubaya and found it impossible to procure a room there far less a house this is also the case at guadalupe san joaquin in fact in every village near mexico we are in no particular danger unless they were to bombard the palace there was a slight shock of an earthquake yesterday tenth on the seventh the president offered an amnesty to the pronunciados whatever might have been the result the evening concluded with a terrible thunderstorm mingled with a roaring of cannon which had a most lugubrious effect many people were killed on the street we had gone out in the morning but met the x minister ha who strongly advised us to return home directly as balls were falling and accidents happening all around soon after a proclamation was issued by general valencia purporting that if the president did not yield he would bombard the palace and that if the powder which is kept there were to blow up it would ruin half the city this induced us to look at home for if the palace is bombarded the casa de moneda cannot escape and if the palace is blown up the casa de moneda will most certainly keep it company when the proclamation came out in the morning various were the opinions expressed in consequence some believed it to be a mere threat and others said it would take place at eleven at night an old supernumerary soldier who lives here one of those who was disabled by the last revolution assured us that we had better leave the house and as we refused on the plea of having no safer house to go to he walked off to the azotea telling us he would let us know when the first bomb fell on the palace and that then we must go per force in the evening we went downstairs to the large vaulted rooms where they are making cannon balls and where the vaults are so thick and solid that it was thought we should be in safety even if general valencia really kept his word we sat up that night till twelve o'clock listening anxiously but nothing happened and now in consequence of a deputation which has been sent to the citadel by certain foreigners of distinction though unknown to the government we are no longer afraid of any sudden assault of this kind as general valencia has promised in consideration of their representations not to proceed to these last extremities unless driven to them for his own defense in listening to the different opinions which are current it would seem that bustamante santana and valencia are all equally unpopular and that the true will of the nation which congress was afraid to express was first for the immediate convocation of a constitutional congress and secondly that they should not be governed by santana yet that bustamante should renounce and a provisional president should be named santana writes complaining that bustamante by assuming extraordinary powers commanding the army and yet continuing president is infringing the constitution but as he is coming on to destroy it entirely this is being rather particular it is reported that the typhus fever is in the citadel but there are many floating rumors which are not to be depended upon there is evidently a great deal of consternation beginning to be felt amongst lower classes foreigners generally are inclined towards santana mahecans to bustamante but all feel the present evils the leperos seem to swarm in greater numbers than ever and last evening two small shops were broken into and robbed in vain the president publishes manifestos that the shops may be opened they remain carefully shut all commerce paralyzed and everyone who has the means to do so leaving the city we hear that the shells from the citadel have destroyed part of the beautiful house belonging to judge peña y peñas in front of the alameda 11th we have just received private information from the government that they will shortly require this house for arms and ammunition and troops coupled with still more private advice to provide for our safety by leaving it we shall therefore gladly accept the kind invitation of the fa family to remove to their hacienda san servier about three leagues from this we had at first declined this invitation owing to its distance from the city inconvenient for us who are only waiting for the first opportunity to leave it but besides that after the most diligent search in all the surrounding villages we cannot find a single unoccupied room we are very glad to spend our remaining days in mexico with so distinguished a family i shall therefore write a little more present on the subject of the revolution which announced that we have lived sometime in mexico and have formed friendships there fills us with feelings entirely different from those which the last produced with personal sentiments of regret private fears and hopes for the future and presentiments of evil which owe more than half their sadness to individual feelings 12th we are now in the midst of all the confusion occasioned by another removal surrounded by trunks and boxes and carcadores and at the same time by our friends all those who have not taken flight yet taking leave of us a great cannon aiding took place last night but without any important result the soldiers in the daytime amuse themselves by insulting each other from the roofs of the houses and convents yesterday one of the president's party singled out a soldier in the citadel shot him and then began to dance in nanos and in the midst of a step he was shot and rolled over dead we shall write again from san sabir end of letter the 44th