 So guys, super excited about today's video. Today, what we're gonna be focusing on is cutting short hair in our fingers. So we're gonna be doing a pixie cut. It's gonna have a disconnected top. We're also gonna color it nice platinum blonde as well. So kind of a bonus add-on at the end of the video. So what I'm doing right now is finding my sections because you wanna make sure that you don't have the section too wide on the top. You wanna make sure that it's gonna fall right. So what I do is I look for the bridal ridge. I go a little bit below it so it sits a little heavier and then I follow that back to the high point or the mid-crown area. I go across the top and then I'm gonna create a second section right in the crown area. It's gonna be diagonal back for the first line coming off the bridal ridge and then I go down to just above the occipital bone. I go straight across from there and then I go back up. So I'm basically creating almost like a triangle or a piece of pizza with the tip of it bit off, right? So I don't wanna have a complete triangle because I'm gonna use that as a, I like having that horizontal line in there to separate it, but we're gonna be going on the sides first. We're gonna be cutting that diagonal back on both sides so you can see there. This is my brand new scissor. It's not out till fall 2018. I'm really excited to be launching it. We have two different sizes, but this has got everything I love in a scissor. If you see the thumb, it has a nice thumb groove to it. It's got a nice small tang. So it's super comfortable in your hand. It's also not a removable tang, which I like. I did a flat screw that's also matte black. It's got my logo on it and it was manufactured in Japan by Mizutani. So I'm super excited to partner with them on this because I honestly wouldn't wanna have a scissor made anywhere else other than Mizutani. So super excited for that. That will be coming out. A lot of you guys wanna know how much it is. It's gonna be living right around between $550 and $599. We're in production right now, so we will know soon what that price is gonna be and a little bit closer to the date of when it comes out. But we're thinking September, October. All right, so as I start the haircut, I start working diagonal back. So you saw me comb the hair towards the face and I cut my line directly on the face, gives me a nice hard line. It gives me also a nice visual point to start it. And then as I go through, and I'm obviously speeding this up quite a bit because everything is very repetitive, but I work with my hands, my fingers parallel to the parting and I work all the way through diagonal back and just cut my section. Now, the reason I like to put it in my hands as opposed to cutting scissor over comb, there are time and place for scissor over comb, but when you're working on somebody's head shape, Mary's got a little bit more of a rounded head shape. So what I wanted to do is create some nice weight lines. So I like to do that. Every single section I take in my hand, I focus on what my elevation is because the lower the elevation, the more shape I'm gonna build out, the higher the elevation, the more I'm gonna collapse the shape. So I wanted to make sure that I'm creating the right shape for her head shape and making the haircut look the best that I can. So I go through, it takes a little more effort, but honestly, I think that this is what separates good haircuts from great haircuts to make sure that you're really focused on what you want the outcome of your shape to be. So notice as I go through here, her head shape starts to peel away. And when I say peel away, it just means it's getting further away from my hand. And as it gets further away from my hand, if I don't change my elevation, then the weight starts to build up more. So everything I'm cutting right now is pretty much straight out from the head, but once I get up to that bridal ridge area, I'm not following the round of the head. I'm over directing everything towards myself, which starts to build up a little bit of weight. I like having that little bit of weight in there. I think it builds a nice shape to the head, but you wanna make sure you don't drop it too low and create too much weight within the haircut. Hope that makes sense for you guys. If it doesn't, for some reason, let me know in the comments below and I'll try to explain it better. But as I work down the head shape as well, and I start to work towards the occipital bone, now I keep my finger, my elevation pretty much straight out from the head, keeping it collapsed. But this last line that you're seeing right here, that's where I start to drop the elevation. So you see a little bit of buildup of weight. It's not a lot. I'm not dropping it too far, but I do start to build it up just a bit and I'll start to build it up even more right here in this kind of high occipital bone, low crown area, because I want to build out that shape on our head. Mary has a little bit more of a flat occipital bone area. So some of our clients have that and the way that you can kind of counteract that is start to build a little extra weight into the back. So that's just dropping that elevation a bit to kind of give the appearance of a nice head shape, nice occipital bone area. So as I follow through, what I like to do is continue that diagonal back parting all the way over to the other right hand side corner nape area and then I'll go back through and I'll crisscross it. And what that does is it's almost like cross-checking it and cutting it at the same time so it connects the two sides in the back together and I'll show you guys more of that in a second. So we're doing the same thing to create the guideline on this side as well. So I go through, I comb the hair towards her face and then I go through and I cut. I noticed right there, I didn't cut it as short so I go a little bit shorter on that second round. But the reason I like to cut it first and then take a look at it and then go back through and cut it some more is because you can't add the hair back on once you cut it off so you wanna make sure you have the right length. So then I use that as my guideline and I do the same exact thing I did on the opposite side cutting palm to palm, keeping that elevation pretty much straight out from the head, almost elevating that guideline just a little bit so I don't start to build up weight when I don't want to and I just go through and cut. The scissor that I'm using obviously is the scissor that I showed you at the beginning. It's the scissor that I've been creating and working on with Mizetani. But the thing I like about this scissor is it's a five inch scissor which isn't something I was normally used to working with but I wanted to start working with a smaller scissor because of the fact that when you're cutting precise haircuts you don't wanna push the hair and the longer the blade on your scissor the more push it's gonna give to the hair no matter what. There's definitely sharper blades that you can get to help with that but for the most part, the shorter the blade the more precise you're gonna get with the cut cause there's no reason to cut six inches of hair at the same time. So we're making a five inch scissor which is the one I'm using and also a five and a half inch for those of you that want something a little bit longer. Also if you wanna do scissor over comb work you can do it a little bit better with a five and a half inch. So we're making both but I'm really loving using this five inch scissor for the purpose of precision cutting. Notice I'm not doing a lot of clipping at all really in this section. I did prep her hair with a little bit of gel and the reason I use the gel is because it helps give a little bit of hold to the hair as you go through it helps keep it clean. People call it a cutting lotion but it's really just a styling product. I like to use a styling product for cutting lotion because of the fact that when you use a styling product you're consistently combing it through the hair the entire time. So then when you go back to blow dry the hair you've already combed that styling product on every bit of the hair as you went. So that's a nice little quick tip for you guys. So you can see how clean that looks. This is one of my favorite things to cut is a nice round shape. Following the head shape it's one of the most difficult things to cut because you're constantly moving your body so it's hard to stay consistent but this is where you're seeing where I start to crisscross it in the back. So I went one way with it when I cut the left side and now when I'm cutting the right side I'm coming back over it so we create almost like an X feeling in the back of the head I'm trying to show you now. Now we're gonna go in do some scissor over comb just to do cross checking. So on the left side I went diagonal back so I'm gonna go diagonal forward and just cross check it. I've now switched to the five and a half inch blade and I just follow it up and just clean up any imperfections in the haircut it gives it a nice smooth feeling to the haircut. You can see that bottom blade so I keep one blade nice and steady and I keep it right on the bone of the comb. So as the hair comes into the comb it holds it nice for me and then I just cut it off. I'll go through, do a little detail work around the ear. Now it definitely challenge you guys to use your scissor more especially around the ear and doing this detail work but if you really want to you could use a trimmer as well. I just think there's a little bit more of an organic feel when you use a scissor for this stuff. Just cleaning up the neckline I wanted to keep everything very natural around her hairline as well. There's no reason for me it's not my style to create nice hard lines in the hairline. I wanted something nice and soft plus we're gonna be blonding her hair so it's already gonna have some kind of built in texture and movement to it so I didn't wanna make it too sharp looking in there. It's just again not my style. Using that steady blade to go around the ear that's a nice quick tip for you guys if you just pull the ear down and you use the steady blade along the ear you can cut that nice line around it. Same thing just working up the hair I went diagonal back on the right side so now I'm going diagonal forward up to cross check it so you can see this build up that I already started and I talked about Mary doesn't have a real strong occipital bone well now we're really gonna build it in with our sectioning here so I'm gonna go vertical with everything the reason I'm choosing vertical is because it allows me to work more with my elevation so I can really focus on what I want where I want that hair to sit where I want it to be heavy so notice my angle I come straight off of the head shape and I build up weight right away so the top tip part of my fingers is almost at zero degrees if you think about it more actually let's call it 45 now that I'm looking at it 45 degrees which is gonna be a nice build up of weight sitting right at that low crown of high occipital bone area which gives me that nice build up so you can see how it disconnects on the sides that's something fun that we're adding into the haircut obviously if you wanted to connect the back I would cut this more diagonal back keep that crisscross going like we did on the sides in the bottom but we're gonna do this disconnected and it's gonna be connected really more in the center we're cutting it more of a square feel on the back so everything's coming straight out from the head which over-directs this part right here that you're looking at it over-directs it back but then it pushes a little extra weight towards the front so now we're gonna cut the top and this is super disconnected right now we're gonna go through slight diagonal forward we could call it depending on what way she's gonna wear her hair I'm gonna go in point cutting her hair because I wanna create a lot of texture but notice it's on a slight diagonal and the reason I'm doing this is I'm over-directing everything back towards me in the back left hand side of the head the back left hand corner of that section because I'm gonna push the weight towards the front right hand corner of the haircut so if that makes sense anywhere you pull the hair it's going to push back the opposite direction so I want to pull it towards the back left hand corner so it pushes the most weight towards the front right hand corner if that makes sense so pulling it back doing a lot of point cutting in there and then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna blow dry her hair and then after I finish it we're gonna do even more cutting so don't be too freaked out about how disconnected it is right now we're gonna do some more techniques to take it a little bit shorter so I'm using the Paul Mitchell Neuro the new Neuro blow dryer I'm also using the Ergo diamond head paddle brush it's a tiny paddle brush it's one of my favorite brushes that I've ever used because I love a paddle brush more than anybody I think but a tiny paddle brush is even more perfect because I love it when I'm doing short hair like this then I go in with the Paul Mitchell Neuro iron and then polish it off again with another pass of the blow dryer now I like to switch up my tools create different textures so we're gonna go in with the Donald Scott twist razor to create a more shattered appearance of this top portion of the haircut so I bring vertical sections down almost like if you guys think about balayage taking those little pieces and then going through with my Donald Scott twist which is available on freesaloneducation.com go on there, go into the hair and carve kind of a triangular feel just to break up that side section now we're gonna go through and cut the fringe area so I'm gonna carve it right from the very front left hand corner and I'm gonna over direct it towards me and then what that's gonna do is again push more weight over to the front right hand corner of her head so we're creating that texture creating kind of a side bang and then pushing that length off to the side I love the shape of this haircut using the twist is so cool because it's almost like drawing with a pencil just being able to go in there and take the hair that you want off there and then I go through and do some more point cutting create more texture on the top now that I've got the hair blown dry so you can see this is already a cool haircut just imagine when we get done with it and we do the blonde hair color on it as well so I'm gonna give you guys a quick preview of the blonde hair color so it's gonna be a one minute quick video I used a Joyco lightener to do it I'm gonna give you guys the full video of it as well coming up but I just wanted to give you guys a preview there's not much to really talk about except for the fact that I used this Joyco vero light lightener I mixed that with 20 volume put it right on the scalp I did that process twice and then I overlay it with a toner to get my end result so here's the video Hey guys then I go in with an A9 light ash blonde from Joyco it's their vero K-Pak color and I tone it and I put that right on her wet hair and here is the end result hope you guys like the video if you like the cut hope you like the color let me know thanks for watching