 I got some parts delivered to me from the future. Hello and welcome to episode 20 of taking apart a Monroe calculator. Model K. So I got from Shapeways the parts that I wanted. The first part is the crank handle from the carriage, the side of the carriage. So here's the original. And this is something that I knocked together using SolidWorks and printed out. And I hope it will actually fit properly. Let's find out. So this is going to be the very first time that I try this. So, will I get the happy sounds of victory or the horns of defeat? Well, let's see. Okay, that's not too bad. It's a little tight, but I guess that's sort of okay. And it fits perfectly, actually. So, there we go. Now it doesn't actually look like the original black plastic. The original is shinier. This is not. So maybe a choice of different material would be better, but anyway, there we go. Yeah, I guess this could be a little looser. Maybe I'll drill it out with a slightly bigger drill. But anyway, there we go. Now I can go ahead and put this on the carriage and declare the carriage done, which is always a good thing to declare things done. So, put that on there, and there we go. It's done. So, it catches a little bit. Not quite sure why, but anyway. So, we'll see how that works in the final thing. So, the other thing that I got is the key stem. So, here is the broken one. It's kind of bent. Here's an original one. And here is the one that I have 3D printed. Yeah, so there's the one that I have 3D printed. They look pretty much identical. So, the only funny thing about this is that if you look right here at the top, you can see this little nibble thing, nibbly nub. The reason that I had to do that is that Shapeways has a minimum dimension. And this is just slightly smaller than the minimum dimension. So, I had to add a little bit to trick them into accepting the shape. They print it out and make sure that it can actually print anyway. If it doesn't print, then they just reject it. But they'll try it, and if it works, great, they'll send it to you. So, this actually did work. So, I'm pretty happy with the way that came out. It is slightly bent, so if I lay it on the ground, if I hold it on this side and I tap it, nothing. But if I hold it on this side, you can see that it does actually come up off the ground or off the table a little bit. But then again, so does the original part. So, what do I care? So, the next step is going to be to grind that little part down and then put it in here and see if it actually fits. Maybe I will go ahead and measure the thickness of this to see how it compares with the specified thickness. So, that would be kind of cool. And if it doesn't fit, I can always just sand it down or grind it down or whatever. The finish on it is of course not smooth because this is not sheet metal. It's basically centered powder. So, I'm going to do that. And the other thing that I got to continue the project is I got some felt, some brown felt, with approximately the same thickness as the original. So, you can see that the original is actually slightly darker. Maybe that's due to age, I don't know. It doesn't really matter. I guess actually, if it looks different, that's actually better from a restoration perspective because you want to know which parts were actually made new and which parts are original, I suppose. I heard this weird story about these guys who were restoring some old computer and they had to re-solder the wires and they actually wanted to use the solder that was originally on the machine rather than new solder so they had to go find extra solder. That was on the machine and re-melt it so that's kind of excessive in my opinion. But anyway, so I'm going to go grind this down and see how that turns out. I cut these out using a laser cutter. The reason that I did that is I did actually try to cut it out using scissors and it really didn't turn out very well. So I figured, well, I have access to a laser cutter so let's go ahead and just measure the parts correctly and just cut them out the modern way. So I can just take these out and the middle part is a little bit stuck so I'm just going to cut the strings off of it. So this basically fits right on there. Fits perfectly and then like that. So that works pretty well. And this is the new one. I did find that the thickness was right on so well done shapeways. It was correct to within a thousandth of an inch so that's pretty good. Unfortunately, the width was off by 0.005 inches and you might not think that that sounds like much but it's enough so that the new part actually wouldn't fit into the slots. So I did just take a file and I just filed off this portion and now it fits properly as you can see. So there it is. Oops, I have the felt and the washer wrong. So I'm going to go ahead and just put all of these together again. I'll put the last 10 keys. That's nice. I'll put the last 10 keys on and then we'll see where we get to. So here we go. All right, so having put all these together and not hearing the sad sound of the horns of defeat this one is actually the new key stem and it works perfectly. The felts also work perfectly. The felts turned out to be just slightly thicker than the original felts. I'm not actually sure whether it's because the original felts are 90 years old and therefore they got compressed or what but that's kind of an interesting thing to see but I don't think it should have any impact on the functionality of the keys but we'll find out. So what's left of the keyboard? I'm looking at video nine to see how this was taken apart. So we have these two cross members. One of them has this extra bit on it. The extra bit goes in the back. The member with the extra bit goes in the back and this one goes in the front like this. Just like that. And there's also, we've got four screws left which we'll screw this onto the base plus a spring. The spring is for this cross member and I'm gonna put the cross members on first. Then these bars, then this final support which as you can see has these pins so obviously I need to put these on the back pin. Then I can put this front piece on with all the pins just like that. The purpose of this again remember before we determined was to zero out the keyboard and the way that works is let me just put one of these things on, put this on. Okay, so I'll put one of this here. Let me get it in there, go in there. There we go, all right. So it basically works like this, right? So, and this would be spring loaded so it's forced up against the keys. So when I push a key down here, I'll push that one down. This bar causes that key to lock. So the only way to unlock it is to move that bar over to the right which happens when I push this clearing bar over to the right just like that. So that's basically how that works. And this one, if I go ahead and put that in we can see how that works. Okay, so now I'll put back this guy. So basically the action of this bar is to lock the keys in place. So with this bar moved to the left I can't actually rotate this bar at all which means that when I put a key down I won't be, well I could clear it of course but this holds these bars in place. So I think that's basically how that works. So let's go ahead and put that together. I'm going to leave this off for now and I'm going to take the spring out of the bag and I'm just gonna turn this over and insert one. So the spring hooks around this post over here and then it has to go through a hole in that bar. So I've got to find the end of this spring and then just sorta hook it around the bar. There we go, is it on? It's hanging in there, let me, oops, yeah it came out. Let's try that again. Hook it on the post, there, hook it on the part. Okay, there we go. Now the part is spring loaded, so that's okay. All right, so the next thing that I'm going to do is put the zeroing or clearing member in there but first I have to get all these little springs out of the way because they are all in the way. Put that in there and that just stays there, I guess. Now I'll put these bars in. So each bar goes first onto the pin in the back and it slides into place. Then I need to take its spring and hook it around its hole just right over here. So this is, that's a little tricky because again I have to find the end of the spring and just hook it over. It's hard to tell what's going on without some magnification or I suppose what I could do. I think I did this the last time is I just remove the bar and then hook the spring over it. So here's the end and here's the bar and then I just sort of stretch the spring out, not too much and hook it around. Then I can put it on the pin in the back and put it in place just like that. So I'm ready for the next bar and then I'll do all the bars and then I'll put this on. So let's get going. All right, so all the bars are in, okay. So pushing on the lock or the clear bar does actually move all of them, which is a good thing. One thing that I'm also going to do is lubricate the pins in the back. So just give it a little bit of oil just in the back. These things don't really rotate a lot, but they do move so it can't be a bad thing. This one came off its pin. All right, there we go. I'm just checking them all to make sure that they're properly aligned because the next thing to do is to put this in and I've got eight of those bars to align with the pins. So first let me, let me go ahead and put a little bit of oil on each pin just to make it a little bit easier, okay. So the oil is on each pin now. And now I'm just going to put it on and try to align these properly. So I think I may have to just lift each one slightly. Just to slide it onto the pin. And the reason that I have to lift is that there are these pins sticking up out of this piece. Once all the bars are in, then I can just put this in flat and that works pretty well. Bars are all in and aligned properly. They all work properly. So now I just have my four screws. I can put the oil away so it doesn't go all over the place. Let's see, I think probably this is the right bit. So I'll hold this on carefully because I certainly don't want the bars to come out again. So I'm just going to put one screw on the end, get the other screw on the other end and I'm just putting them in, not tightening any of them. I'll do that as the last step just in case there are any alignment issues. So I'll work my way from inside out I guess and I don't want to tighten too much because these screws are probably not made of the toughest steel. So the slots could get damaged if I try to screw them in farther than necessary. All right, there we go. So there it is, there's the keyboard assembly. So I can push down on a key and it locks itself. I can push the clearing bar and if this were aligned properly, it would pop right out. This one is the new key so I can push that in and again, if the top plate were on and this were aligned it would pop right out. So that works pretty well. That's the keyboard. Let's check the video to see what's next. So what's next is I'm going to eat a cricket bar. Well, I'm going to eat half of a cricket bar. So I just heard a show about eating bugs and how bugs are full of protein and are much more efficient in feeding than any other animal or even, you know, crops. So I thought I would give it a try. This actually just contains cricket flour. It doesn't actually contain whole crickets but that's actually an interesting thing that I'm kind of wondering if I should try next. According to the nutrition label this, so first of all, this is chapel and it comes in three flavors. This one is, I believe it's, yeah, this is peanut butter and chocolate. They have another one which is coconut and lime and then they have a third one, I forget which. But, you know, really it's just stuff. According to the ingredient label, it's got dates, peanuts, honey and then cricket flour and then it goes on to have some cocoa powder, oats, flaxseed, salt. So it's basically, I mean, it's not like you're eating a cricket, right? I guess you may as well just put any old type of flour in here and you probably wouldn't even taste it. It's got 6% iron. In terms of carbohydrates, the whole bar is 27 grams which is essentially two slices of bread. So I'm just gonna eat one and let's see how it tastes. It just tastes like a bar. I mean, I certainly wouldn't expect to taste a cricket in here. There's a whole peanut in here but it just tastes like an ordinary health bar. So if you wanna say you've eaten crickets, you can eat this and it's like, you know, there aren't actually any cricket parts in here except for cricket, you know, powder. So anyway, that was a pretty good snack. Let's go back to the calculator. And according to video eight, this is the next thing that we took apart. It's the, I think this is the left frame. It's the one with the spinny gear on it. So I ran some degreaser over it, especially paying attention to these bearings here. Let's see. Well, this is a bearing right over here. And I did put some here with these semicircular depressions here and here, which I know are bearing surfaces. So, and then I just, you know, cleaned off the general junk. And this is the stuff that was in bag 10. So we have a standoff with a washer. We've got some screws. We've got this rubber stop thing. This other thing, we've got a wire, which I still haven't figured out the purpose of. Oh, we have a lever. So let's put this together. So let's see. So we have this standoff and there are two washers. There's a big washer and a small washer. So we take the big washer and put that on here. And then this goes, I think, right over here. Okay, so that's just that. Okay, and then we turn this around. The next thing that we can put on actually, let's keep this turned around. The next thing is this rubber stop, which has a nut, a screw, which goes in from the backside. And then this part, which goes in like this. Not the other way around, but like that. Then I put the screw back in. I suppose I could find a piece of rubber, maybe. That then I could replace the rubber, but it doesn't look like it needs replacing. So I'm just gonna tighten this up. Just gonna put this back in its place. Should really have a crescent wrench to do this, but it's probably good enough for now. And then I can probably just screw the... So there is that rubber piece. This wire went on here. And again, I don't know what purpose it serves. So I am just going to put it back on and figure out the purpose of it, maybe as I put this calculator back together again, and see if this was supposed to be a spring or something. That's a post. So usually with a post, there's a spring. Let's see what's next. There is this funny piece. And this funny piece went on, I think if I turn this around, no. Still in this orientation. This piece went on this way, I think. Nope, that's the way it went. So I'm not sure that this is supposed to pivot, actually, because it looks like there is going to be a screw that goes in here. I think this is just a pin. So I'm just going to leave it like that without oiling it. I don't think there's a purpose in oiling it. Let's see, the next part, it appears to be this long screw which gets the small washer. So I'll put that on. And let's see, where does that go? It looks like it goes, I'm not sure where. So let me just step through the video really quickly. Okay, that's the lever part. There's the small screw, so that's good. Ah, okay. It actually does fit right over here. So it goes on like that, right? Yeah, so that means that the post would actually stick out the other side. So I am going to go ahead and screw this in. And before I tighten it up, yeah, that's what I suspected. There's a shoulder on this screw which basically fixes this piece in place. So yeah, this piece does not rotate. So it doesn't actually need to be oiled. Okay. And there's that post that sticks out on the other end. So the next thing that goes on is the lever and this screw. So the lever, so I'm just checking the video here. Okay, the lever goes on this way. So it goes over this post like that. And then, I think that's right, yeah. So it goes over that post. Or is it actually, no, no, this is correct. And this screw goes in right there. And there's a shoulder on this screw, so this lever basically rides on that shoulder. So I'm gonna put this in here. It seems to be a little tight. Maybe it could use just a dab of oil, just a small bit in there, so that the threads go in a little better. Okay. So there we go, screwdriver. Okay, so I don't wanna tighten this on the lever. I want the shoulder to go in. So I can tighten the screw and you can see that the lever is actually loose. Now because these are two parts that rub together, I'm just gonna put some oil in there. That way the lever can slide a little better. So that's the lever right there. And let's see if, yeah. Okay, so this spring just comes and hooks over the post. I'm gonna get that over the post somehow. Tough. I think I'm gonna have to force it over over at the top of the pin and then push it into its groove. I think that's in. That's in. Okay, so that's how that goes. So that way the lever basically can move into its two positions held in place by that spring. Okay, the next thing is this lever here, which has another integral part in there. Doesn't seem like that really needs a oiling. Seems pretty good. So I'll just leave it like that. So according to the video, I have to take this and flip it this way. Okay. And this goes in here, right into there. So what I am going to do is it goes like that, I think. Let me move this wire out of the way and let me oil the inside of this bearing. Put some oil in there, move it around and this goes just in like this. And that's it, I think. I'm just moving this part in and out to get the oil distributed. There we go. Seems to work pretty well. It seems to move pretty smooth. Good. So the next part that goes on is this long part here. So we've got an axle that appears to be either pressed or welded or something onto this other part with this thing on it. This is moving. So I am going to just stick some oil in there. Some oil goes in there. And then this whole lever, this whole axle goes in there. So what I'm going to do is put some oil inside the bearing, put this. Now I guess it's important to know whether this goes on this side of the lever or on this side of the lever. I suspect it's going to be on this side. Okay, so this lever sort of hangs down. So I'm going to do that. Insert the lever in, rotate it a bit just to get the lubrication going. All right, so that goes in like that. And then on this side, we have this stop that goes on there. But I don't think it goes all the way because in the video it looked like it was out a little bit so I'm not quite sure where this is supposed to go. So I'm just going to tighten it right up against the bushing. And then later on, when I discover where it actually needs to go, I'm not going to tighten it all that much. Just a little bit. So that way, when I figure out where it actually is supposed to go later on, I can put it in its proper position. So that was pretty much the end of video eight. That was the conclusion of video eight. And I think that's probably a good stopping point for this video. So when we come back for video 21, I'll be stepping backwards again through video seven and bag nine with all these fun parts, probably along with the right hand frame. So that's going to be fun. We're making progress here. So I guess that's about it for now. And we'll see you for episode 21. See ya. Somehow I made it through life with my heart still intact all my baggage still packed all my goals on track but now my goals in kind of tame or did they go down the drain?