 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. Alright guys, we're here to check out a air conditioner. It's not working right. They think that it's one of the units not running because they have high humidity in the building. They said something about it has condensation. I'm assuming that it's maybe leaking or something all over the place. Let's go in here and take a look and see what we have going on. Is that up backwards? Right now, kitchen is comfortable. Dining room is not comfortable. Okay. I'll go out there and take a look and see what we've got going on. You're welcome. So supposedly we got some condensation or something in here. We're going to get up on the roof, check air flow, make sure that's correct. Make sure filters are clean. All the usual suspects that generally don't change for nothing. So we've got ductwork coming across here to this main trunk line to there. And on back to that area there. So let's go up on the roof to what we got. Generally what I noticed at some of these locations, it's just like usual. Maintenance. Doesn't happen. Surely is not going to happen up here on the roof. They usually take care of their own stuff. There's the ice machine that I did a video on a while back. Got some exhaust hoods here. Here's the kitchen. Let's see how bad the coils look. Suction is sweating. Fans are all running. This is the kitchen, like I said. Let's go look at this other one over here. Well, it's definitely pulling out some moisture here. Probably a little more moisture than what you're used to. That kind of makes me think that the fan speeds probably going really slow. I think these were started up in the winter time so I don't know if they ever got a true air conditioning startup. But she is pumping the heat. It ain't afraid to tell you so. All three are putting it out. Let's go take a peek inside here. And you can see we had the airflow set. You would think that was done. Economizer, hard to tell. Let's get this thing open and look in here. Got us a J control here. Let's take a peek of poo in here and what we got going on. So I went through here already but let's look at it again. So we've got cooling, Y1 in. Y1 out, yes. Y2 in, yes. Y2 out, yes. Not in heat. Mixed air temperature, 62.2. Outdoor air temperature, 90.9. Damper out, 56%. Actuator position, 56%. That kind of seems a little jacked. Canicle cool on. Let's get out of here and let's look inside at the dampers. See what we got at that, let's check these fillers. All right, so we are trying to cool the world down by pulling in a crat ton of mixed outside air. Yeah, that's good. That's probably why it's not working so well. The filter looks fairly new. So does that one. So those had to have been changed not too horribly long ago because as much outside air as we're bringing in, that should have been pretty packed full of crud. Yep, fan speed don't feel like it's super fast either but let's get a look at this actuator and see what's going on with that. Pulled that panel out, now we're able to get in here and see, make sure that our wires are not loose. They're definitely warm. This should be about 208 area. Everything seems fine there. Shouldn't probably do that live but you know, probably gonna end up adjusting that actuator on the J control there. I wanted to kind of visually actually see it. I don't know how that would have gotten adjusted at high. That's like other than the fresh air for paranoia and stuff like that. Let's take a look in here on system setup. Okay, we're gonna get in here and I think we need to get into the actual setup which doesn't seem like it's, there we go, set points. Mix air temperature at 53, low temperature lock 32, dry bulb setting, 63, minimum position, 6.5 volts. I think what's happened here, especially bands we've got, somebody's done a full blown balance. I think what we might have here is because all you've got for a makeup air unit, you got this one right here. And I don't know, well, hell, it's not even running. That could be a problem. Freaking dampers are shut. What the heck? Nothing's running. Windier in hell now. Yeah, this is a problem. So we're not pulling air into the actual building there. You got the big old hoods there, the big old, whatever, they're yanking it out. That'll screw you real fast. What about this makeup air unit? That's the story on this one. That one's running. This is over top the grill line. That one over there, even though it's the bigger one, is backed by the, I don't understand why the biggest one's back here. This makes no sense. All right, so I kind of talked to some of the designers here and this duck work goes over to the cook line. They also got a tempered with kitchen unit to help counter the hot air that it's going to be bringing in from, you know, during the summertime. I'm going to go downstairs and see if the power is turned off down there. Hopefully it's off and not tripped. Okay, let's go over here and take a peek of poo. See if we can find this thing. Do we see anything off? Guess maybe I should check the voltage up there on the roof where I came down here, but... So luckily, like I said, we looked around and found this before we adjusted anything. When you see that balance, ports there drilled out and looks like somebody professionally did it, it's probably not a good idea to go changing things. If you do, that's where that RPM gauge comes in handy, tachometer and write it down where it was at before. So far, we got 208 on these two power legs. I still got to check the other one. I'm thinking, I bet you my switch is dead or this drive is shot. So we got to pull this cover here. I'm really worried about opening that up when it's live. All right, so we do have power here. We went ahead and checked it. And we have 209, 208, 209. I couldn't see it because it's super, super bright out here. But once I got this cover off there, you can see there's a red LED there. And if you stare at it close enough, you can see it says overload. I did not see that because it's freaking bright out here. Now this little fan thing, I don't know if it's running or not. It doesn't look like it is. Wind is just blowing so hard that it's blowing everything off. Yeah, a little fan's not, not doing its job like it should. Of course it may not run unless it's actually running the drive, which would make sense. See if I can get some of this crap out of it. Man, they made that really easy to take apart. That's for sure. OL2 overload 2. You can see if we can find something in here. I know this drive is supposedly got good tech support, but I don't really want to spend all day trying to figure it out. So let's go ahead, stop, hit run. Neither one of them worked. That's awesome. Hit enter for OL2. I didn't do nothing to escape. I didn't do nothing reset. There we go. Set for 60 Hertz looks like. That's coming on. May need to go in here and see what it's rated at. I just checked my rating plate. 5.9 amps with the door off. 5.9 eventually. I wonder if they were doing maintenance and they caused it to trip and didn't realize it. See how it's shutting down and starting over. There, that's open. That's good. Filters are really clean. Supposedly they might have just done a service on this, which kind of all goes together. I don't know how hard it's going to be to get in here to double check the program and to see where it actually trips out at. Technically and theoretically shouldn't even have to. Set up for 60 Hertz. I know on that one I did a video of a while back. I said it where we finally got it where we wanted it at. So yeah, make sure all of our connections are tight, which I feel like they are. And it is freaking hard to see. Monitor. Yeah, that gets kind of complicated. Get out of that. 5.1 amps. 5.1 amps. Fairly accurate. That's good. I think it's like space shuttle fast. I've done a video on these before. This is your outside lockout temperature. So it won't run unless it's 45 or wherever you set it at. Usually it's 50 to 55. Kind of depends on who, what, when and where. Man your reset. That's the case the band don't run and it doesn't catch on fire. So it shuts that down. Just got a regular spark ignition. Here's your max troll valve. It just controls the flow so that you can keep your particular temperature eyes. Can't know everything. Got to go back and look at the book. Like I said, we run at 5.1. It actually is doing pretty good there. Still think we got way too much outside air coming in. We may close that just a little bit. It's a sports bar, but they don't have any smoking or any of that in here. So you don't, you know, got anything to really wash out other than just the, you know, carbon dioxide in the room. The fan is running. It's not the issue. Not for another year or two. Still pulling out a lot of moisture. A lot of humidity. I'm in a position though. That's just nuts. That sure looks like a lot. Yeah, it looks like a lot. I don't know how I'm oversized and all that stuff. And this ain't the first summer for it. See what we can do here with this thing. Let's see what our status is for. Mixed air temperature now. See if it's any cooler. Mixed air temperature, 60. I don't remember what it was before. I have to go back and look. I think it was 63. So we may have raised and dropped it by three degrees. Yeah. Okay. So set points minimum position low, six and a half high, six and a half. We could try taking that down to say six and see where that's at. That's still higher than ever I normally see it. Because if you think about it, if you're in high, it's obviously not keeping up very well. A lot of times you see the high lower. Let's go to five and see what happens. And then on low, it'll go back open. So that way when there's not much of a load, it would be less open. Then again, there we go, there's five volts. That's maybe a little too closed. I mean, it's definitely bringing air in, but something just changed. Lower speed changed. Yep. So it went down to low, I think right there. See how it just started to open back up. Yep. I think it just dropped down to low. What's awesome is, they come over to this thing and find out if it changed to low. Now, you remember downstairs, it was off by quite a bit status. My one is on. Y2 is off. So Y2 is not calling now. Let's go downstairs and see how the thermostats set up and see what kind of differential. Those thermostats can have temperature differential and have time delay going into it. And depending on how they have that set up, they could be multiple degrees. It's all kinds of flexibility there. Obviously, the longer we run, the more we'll pull. Now that the building's not as much of a negative, if you think about this, that there is pulling air and putting it into the kitchen. So the building's not sucking for the air. So, you know, if the building's in a negative, it's going to pull where it can get it at. So in that case, it's going to pull from this unit right here, which is going to screw up the dining room area, which that's the area you want to make most comfortable. The kitchen, unfortunately, they're the sacrificial lamp. So let's go back and look at it and see how it looks. All right, so this is the kitchen area. Pop the filter out. I haven't looked at the controller yet to see where we're at, but that's nowhere near as open. Now they may have taken into consideration the kitchen heat load being much higher than the dining room so that they figured they could get away with it out there. It's hard to say. Just have to lift up and pull up to get that to come out of there. So this set at 68 and at 73. It's just now cutting it back. That seems a little extreme. Let's see if we can go through here. We need to go in here and set up limits so they can't set my heat no higher than 70. Now let's do 76, which is really crazy. Minimal cool 65. They do at least got that set fairly decent. Let that roll seconds per hour. Compressor minimum. We could probably take that down to three. It's three phase. Minimum queen cool too. That's fine. Number of heat too. Number of cool. First stage dead man, two degrees. Let's take it to one. That's a hellacious amount. Second to another two degrees. We'll cut that to one. Third stage don't matter because it's not doing it. Minutes between first and second stage. We could take that up to five. Minutes between actually you don't even need that. Let's hold that go back one. Let's go to minutes between and go three. Let's go minutes between second third. Don't matter because it's not one. Second stage turnoff point dead band. So it's always going to sink the cycle back and forth in between the dead band which for humidity is probably best. Minutes of purge, control temp source, wired remote, yes. Humidity only with heat. So right there was a majority of cool to demify. That's not being used. Fan off delay now. Auxiliary output clarity, auxiliary output clarity. This thing has a lot of cool features. It's for being a generic stat. It's a heck of a thermostat for the money. I'm not a big fan of it but it does work. Degree offset for the temperature for cool. Four degrees heat, negative four degrees. So we got a whole lacious amount of dead band in between there. So they're trying to play games which sucks. All right, so we are running 73 degrees out here. Let's go back and look at that thermostat. So I was measuring 74. We probably take that up one more notch. So we're over here in the kitchen one. Wanted to make sure I checked it over. Looks like that one's fresh and clean. Belt looks tight. Now it's cycling a little more now on both circuits. So what I think is with us changing that thermostat to one degree differential for first and second stage, you still got a two degree differential between first and second. It's going to get close to satisfying. It's going to drop down to first. It's going to weasel dink back and forth on that. And the unit's never going to shut off. So it's going to constantly pull out the heat. There goes my hat. It's a little windy out here. Here's that it's a lot better than what it was. That's for sure. Still pulling out crap ton. I just want to say let's try this first. It's a hellacious amount better than what it was. And kind of see how that goes.