 All right, you guys it is the very last day of the new look six seven two eight sub along today We are gonna be putting together the skirt attaching it to the waistband and also installing this invisible zipper and Finally finishing out our neck band facing So saddle up It's a good one today and at the end you're gonna have a garment that looks just as beautiful on the outside as it does on the inside All right today. We start with our skirt pieces. So we have what do we have? the front Yes, the front cut on the fold I cut mine at the cutting line for a so I have the shorter version But open this guy up very kind of big rectangle and we are going to sew the two back skirt pieces to this at the side seams and then for the front piece we want to make sure that the notches On the waist seam are at the top and now we know we have our side seams Everybody's facing the right way Everybody's facing the right way. Okay, good, and we just match up the side seams. We're gonna go sew those down and also finish Those seams as well with your serger or whatever and then you press them to the back Okay, and then we are gonna go. It's our last little bit of gathering you guys. I promise We are going to gather all of this from this notch At on the back close to the center back all the way around To this notch, but stopping and starting over at the side seams So you're going to gather to the side seam and then stop and Then do the top edge to get your two gathering stitches then do the entire front in one fell swoop two stitches for the front and then do this part as your third little gathering stitch again I'm gonna be back stitching At each section on one end to do something to like anchor my stitches in so the skirt is sewn and If you've seen any of my Tutorials before you know that I like to pre press my hem similar to how I explain to you guys We talked about the long sleeve So our hem allowances for the skirt are one and a quarter inches So that means that we are going to do the little marking trick Where we double that so that's gonna be two and a half inches and You just measure that All the way around your skirt And then when you're at your iron pressing your side seams You can go ahead and press this up Or you're gonna press it this fold up to the line that you just marked and then once you have that crease in there You can do your little half fold so that we will end up with something like that All right, so at this point we have Gathering stitches all along the top of the skirt We have Our hem pressed but not sewn and our side seams are sewn and finished as well So now we attach the skirt to the bodice As you can imagine by now How we're gonna do this we're gonna match up the raw edges We are going to match up the notches and the side seams and then gather in between all of those places You should be pretty proficient at Working with gathers at this point. All right, so Center back first we have a notch Then I'm going to come to the side seam now. Remember this lower band does not have a side seam on it so we have to Match up the side seam with the marking on the pattern and the marking on the pattern is This set of dots so that set of dots is what matches up to the side seam on the skirt My dot is here So this side seam comes all the way over here like so and When we pin that in place We will now be able to gather all of this until it matches All right, once you get them even like you like Go ahead and pin and remember I'm gonna pin to where the gathers are on the throat plate So I actually had it upside down but Pin through here and then you just repeat that for the center and The other side of your skirt. So we are going to come in here Find the other side seam Find the other dot match these two things and then we also have a Center front You know, there should be a center front of your skirt when you cut that on the fold you can go ahead and pin that So that gives you another like little anchoring point. So you know that like midway And then there's also notches that match as well. So we have side seams notches center front notch side seam And the gathers get distributed evenly between all of those points okay, now is a time to like squeal and get so excited because We're almost there you guys Okay, back to the inside and remember how we did the upper band We are going to repeat that same process But this time we're gonna do it with the lower band and the skirt. So the lower band gets sandwiched Wait the skirt gets sandwiched between the lower band and the Midsection, okay, so all of this gets sewn into here like so then we flip this up and over and that becomes our Band are facing for the skirt and midsection Seams as you can see I ended up having to surge mine because my fabric kind of shreds Pretty easily and as you saw before it was like really thready and I couldn't really tell what was going on So I searched mine. It's not that bad Honestly, if you just left it surged if you have a surger I might do that for the sheet version when I go to finish that one But I just wanted to point out that that's what that ends up looking like but so Rent and repeat for this. I'm gonna use the hem tape. I'm gonna do everything the exact same way that I did for this But with the lower band instead. All right, it is invisible zipper time We've never sewn an invisible zipper before It's not difficult. It's just you have to pay attention. So we are gonna start with the garment right side out Center back facing up. You can see I've already finished the raw edge Because this is our only opportunity to do it from about here up Then you take your zipper Your zipper gets laid down On top of the dress with the stop at the bottom Where that little there's a notch down there? That's where that goes your raw edges get placed like the the zipper tape gets placed on the raw edge and And then this goes all the way up into the neck band Stop being does it tell us top stop three-quarters of an inch below upper edge Okay, uh, put your invisible zipper foot on your machine and you're gonna stitch this whole thing down All the way down here stopping Okay, it's important that you try your very best to match up the little bands going across the waist and Your neck band. Okay now we are going for Not perfection. We're going for the very best we can. Okay, this is difficult. It's never been easy not for anyone so what I like to do is zip up the zipper and then I will Just put a little baby snip Into the tape like baby baby snip into the tape of the zipper that's gonna go on the other side Helping me figure out where these like Important parts are okay Then when you unzip the zipper You now have like a little bit of a guide to help you know where you're going so again The zipper is flat right sides down flip Flip then I will take my little part with the snips and I will put that as close to the same places on the other side I Find that on the second part of the zipper You almost have to like stretch it out more than you think you would Which I know Like you shouldn't be stretching it out, but you know what I'm saying like I don't know it just feels like it it I don't know it just feels like maybe on the other side. It stretches out a little bit. I'm not sure anyways So come back up here. I have another snip for the neckline that goes right smack dab right there And then this little stop should also be three quarters of an inch below The raw edge because that's what I measured on the other side and it is perfect So that's all I will pin and I will just make sure as I'm sewing that the pin keeps those little Notches that I made in place and I will keep double checking trouble checking that they stay there as I sew the zipper on See how the zipper tape seems smaller than the back I mean it's not but it seems like you have to stretch it out a little bit to get it to fit into the seam That's what I mean by that Also first pass on the zipper. We're gonna do a basting stitch. Trust me if you have to rip any of this out You want it to be a basting stitch and nothing smaller so Here we go Okay, now is where we can test and see How everything's lining up boy that gets bulky, okay pretty good you guys. I mean Not bad, I think that that's gonna be good enough for me because what also I've learned is that you can shoot for the stars here and Rip that out and try and redo it and then you end up making it worse And so then you're mad at yourself that you even tried now this I mean, I don't know that's kind of okay, too Maybe I'm just in a mood where like Finish is better than perfect. I mean it's off by an eighth Some of you might desperately want to fix that. I don't know my OCD isn't kicking in too bad Who's gonna notice that and I have long hair Just my excuse for hiding anything in the back Okay, so now that that's done we need to Like not do a basting stitch so I need to go down to my regular stitch length And Get this in here more permanently Okay, I just pressed it a little bit not bad, right? Not bad at all. I'm pleased with that. Okay, so now you come in here with your regular zipper foot and Right sides together you pin a couple inches of your center back seam below the zipper so you kind of just like fold the zipper up on itself and You're gonna stitch just outside of your zipper stitch line down to that pin And that's gonna get you going and where you can switch to your regular foot and Stitch the rest of the way down. All right, so we've got our center back So and we've already pre-pressed our hem So we can just simply turn that up and sew it at like a scant five eighths or half If you want to just make it even. All right, the last few steps are dedicated to our neckband and We had to wait this long to take care of this because we needed the zipper to go in before anything else So this is going to be similar Ish to the waist bands You are gonna grab your facings Which at this point? I don't even know where mine are. Okay, here they are. All right, so you grab your facings Stitch the stitch this between the dots and then stitch our shoulder seams and then while this is all just one Layer we're gonna stitch half an inch around the outer portion of the band This is gonna help give us a guide for where to press We're gonna go to the iron turn it up at that stitching line easing in all the fullness from the curves and everything else so that you have like a nice crisp Like finished edge you can also just surge this I'm gonna do it the way they're recommending because I think it will look really pretty with the bands on the inside being finished That way and everything else if you've just surged your bands. I would just search this call it a day Okay, so we're gonna do that and then stitch the neckband Stitch the facing to the neckband. So it's gonna go in right sides together matching The interfaced band that's already there and you're stitching along here. This will be finished, right? This will be turned up that half an inch and you're gonna stitch all the way around When you get to the zipper portion and you go to stitch the back neckband like so right sides together Like this you want to turn the seam allowances out and you're sewing it across here like this over your zipper teeth Well, it should not be over the teeth. It should be over this little like braided part But the raw edges go together like this. Okay, okay, so I'm going to go to the iron I'm gonna do the I'm gonna do the Hem tape trick again. I mean it worked just so well for the other bands So why not do it for this one? I am gonna trim this back with my Pinking shears, especially around this corner here Because that's where a lot of the easing needs to happen So trim all this back come over here under stitch which if you remember Facing to the seam allowances repeat after me facing to the seam allowances every single time And that'll help it roll beautifully to the inside and give you that really pretty finished neck band So all of that similarly to how we did the waistbands similarly to how we even attached the Facing for the sleeve all of that should all of this should feel very familiar to you at this point When you go to do your under stitching go ahead and stitch this down as well So the facing gets stitched to the seam allowances of The zipper tape right this gets folded back that way whenever you turn this right side out All of this ends up being sewn down like that, and it's a really pretty finished now We are stitching in the ditch Again very carefully. All right, so this Neck band facing is not for the faint of heart Be kind to yourself if you are Newer to these kinds of techniques. You're not supposed to be excellent at everything the first time you try it Okay, but this is what the neck band ends up looking like Once you're done so a couple of tips that I have is yes the Him tape really did help I kind of put it in sections like I put a chunk here and then I put a little bit here And then I did some around like two pieces one here and one in the back deck Maybe just to kind of anchor in some of those points that wanted to pull in also as I was doing that I used my tailor's ham, which is this little thing and then I have this holder thing Does anybody know what it's called? I can't remember But you put this thing here all these different kinds of ways and it's supposed to I Honestly, I really don't use it that much, but it has helped for this application So I put it in like this because that's like what your neck looks like and then as I came around Especially this like super curvy part I Came like this around the thing See how that just wants to lay nice and flat rather than doing it on the flat surface The tailor's ham really did come in clutch so I was able to kind of press all of this down and Put little temp tape, you know where it needed to go then kind of rotate it, you know do it again And so on and so forth around the the troublesome parts of the neck band at this point you need to go through if you haven't already and Pull out all of the gathering stitches that you can see you can see mine in several places. So Spend some time doing that and then you guys our little dress is done I'm so excited to wear it. I can't wait to see your versions on the internet real soon