 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. All right guys, so we're here to work on a nice machine. This thing's huge. Look at this. This thing is huge So we got here. We're gonna take a look at it and see what we've got going on, but it doesn't look like we have any ice. Imagine that, right? I've seen under the under the bar area style that I haven't seen this one before. This is kind of interesting. I ain't quite seen this before. It's very interesting. So yeah, but from what I see I think she just needs a good cleaning. From what I see, it looks like we can take this apart here and over here It feels kind of cold. The problem is the refrigeration issue, the dirty issue. So what exactly? We're gonna figure it out. Looks like the air filter's on the side here. I haven't worked on this. First, I thought it was a manual to walk, but it's a hajisaki. It's not horrible. Definitely dirty until we're in a factory location. Clean that up. Looks to me like this comes off. Nothing pops up here. I figure we've got to take it apart at the back and then everything should start coming apart. It's traditional plates, which I'm figuring they're probably coming apart. That's probably some of it. Might be low on charge and have plates that are separating from the refrigerant lines. So let's see what we find inside here. All right, so there is two screws back here. Take that off. And here we go. Pretty much the same design as usual. Looks like you unhook on one side and lift it up and out on the other. That's not a problem. Nope, not a problem at all. Yeah, well, there's your issue. If the cold is on the center there, what do you expect? It's not gonna transfer. Not gonna transfer. Now it can work, but my gosh. Look at that. All the way to the bottom. What's up guys? So we're going up here to a problem with a cooler call. It's after hours. Gonna see what's going on. So hop in, let's go see if we can find a place to park. All right, so this thing's brand new. It's real close to it. Let's see if thermostat's calling here. Let's see what's going on. All right, so we found the condenser. It's up here. All looking good. Nice. Confinancy. Funny how it wasn't on the run. So we came down here and we checked our clock. We went from in to line. We got 218 volts. Not bad. I bet you come up here and you look at the clock. You look at your timing motor. Oops-a-daisy. 120 volts. So the clock took a dump and it worked for quite a while, it sounds like. At least a month maybe. So I marked it right there on that copper spot there and it hasn't changed yet. So we're gonna go ahead and kill this thing. Hopefully this little fancy disconnect there actually kills everything. And we will swap this thing out. Oh, look at that. Somebody really wired this up like you're in Diggity. So my damn clock is wired hot even when you kill the disconnect box. Ain't that bright? Brilliant. Guys, this is why you gotta be very, very careful. This is right here. I don't know who the heck wired it up, but they just wired it wrong. And that is a bullcrap because at least it's dangerous for one of us. And that's why you can't trust anybody. Always double check wiring. So, yep, gotta fix that. All right, so I had to go kill the breaker because like I said, he had this wired up live. We've got our power coming in here and now I've corrected it. So it comes into the top of the disconnect, comes out of the disconnect. So now when you kill it, it'll actually not shock the crap out of you. Two of the power wire feeds here go down to the unit, to the compressor contactor. The other two come down, come across and come up here to one and in, which is our clock at 230 volts. Now this lighter gauge wire here is control wiring. They are grabbing one leg of power here and the other power leg off of two. Two is going to close when this thing is running in a call for cooling or, you know, refrigeration. The other one's just picked up the other leg because it's 230 volt coil, or at least I hope it's wired for 230 volt. Maybe I should check that too. A lot of times we use 230 volt coils, does it say? But one thing nice is not that it makes it any better. Yeah, this is a multi-voltage one, I think. Yeah, it is. I need to check and see what the voltage is, make sure it's right. I don't want to come back later. So for 230 volts, you've got to stick yellow to red. So there's yellow to red. The other two go to the power, so it is wired for 230 volts. I think our guys did this part here, but the high voltage part was done by an outside contractor. I'm going to assume that our electricians were too busy and couldn't get to it. So at least it wasn't our guys, however, we didn't catch it. So either way, here I am. So I've got that there. Everything's corrected. We're gonna go ahead and get these covers back on. The cyclist is full and I gotta finish changing out this clock. We're just gonna do wire for wire. The clock just comes out like this. It's not a big deal. You can kind of see the clock ran really hot. It's pretty baked and it's just a timed off defrost. So it literally just breaks the coil to the solenoid and for about an hour, it will just have to run the fans downstairs. Simple as that. So like that. Let's run a ground wire and not terminate it up here. Now at least they terminated it there and in theory it goes to the conduit, but it's like why would you run the... I mean, whatever. I mean, there's really no place to ground it. Oh, yeah, right here you go. So whatever. And people are worried about us wiring things up as electricians. Okay. So we just go ahead and get this thing up here. Hook your edge corners over there. If you can kind of see in the dark, you are good to go. There we go. Just like Bisquick. Good deal. So there we go. So we just got to hook this back up. So Shazam it's back in. So what I usually do is if I'm going to use these kind of wires, which I usually like crimp speed terminals, but strip off about that much, crimp over how much you want to overhang, move it over, stick it underneath there. And Shazam, you've got a ground wire hooked up. If you're going to run it, you need to hook it. And let's go ahead and set the clock. It's six-something. And should be good there. I got that broke. Get that cover back on, then we go downstairs. To the dungeon area. And yeah, that's not gonna fit real good, is it? No, not really. We'll make it work. It'll be all right. And then get that back together because that's live. It's 120 volts there. All right, got her back on there. Let's go get the power on. And Shazam, we should have ignition. All right. So we're back. Look at that. Gin and juice, baby. Let that run for a little bit. I think it's certain that this clock tracks the other clock. Like I said, it just got a little bit warm here. So unfortunately, that's about it. If you guys, new guys, yeah, it seemed clocked. It really ain't much to it. You got it normally open. You got it normally closed. On the front side, they tie them together. If you want, you can literally run two circuits. So between here to here is your normally closed. That's going to be your normally open. And depending on when the clock goes in defrost, it switches them around. X is termination, which comes up to the solenoid. That triggers and terminates defrost early. Usually use that in a freezer. And in, all it does is power the clock. So that comes up here to the clock. And then that's about all there is to it. Pretty, pretty simple thing. Got a lot of gearing in there. These things are heavy duty. They don't go bad, usually that much. They're usually murdered like this. I think 40 amps of current is what that's capable of. On the contacts, points. At least I think that's what the box said. But yep, definitely warranty issue, I'm sure. So let's see if we can't get that right. I'm sure they won't notice that. Got that in there. Yeah, I got a three phase disconnect there. But it's all only single phase. There we go. Okay, give us a little mark here. Make sure it's tracking. Now I need to double check our Cyclas again. It's having a headmaster, so it will get cold up here, I'm sure. There's no heat up here. This is the same location as that start up I did on the make up air unit. So, yep. Cooler, brand new cooler. Right down there. And then they didn't get any struggling. Our guys did a really nice job. They got it level, even though nobody can see anything. They can get in there and work on it. We're good to go. They marked in there exactly what the poundage is and what the refrigerant. So our guys did the job right, but the only electricians that made a mistake, it happens. The biggest thing is you come out and you take care of it. And the customer was right here with me. There was no way to get around it. Just told him, hey, we made a mistake. No big deal. Didn't hurt your equipment. We'll replace the clock. Warranty, move on. You know, they ain't got time to bring up all this other stuff. Because that just, you know, creates doubt in your customer. So that's about it for this one, guys. We're going to go ahead and bounce out of here if we don't get nothing else. Alright, what's up, guys? We are working on this beautiful Pepsi cooler here that's not cooling. Looks like we got a broken seal in between here. Just probably got this funky frost stuff going on there. So the problem is it's not cool like it's supposed to. And it's definitely not cool. The fan's running. The compressor sounds like it's running. So let's find out if it's low on refrigerant. Or what exactly is going on. Or maybe it's got a plug cap too. Let's investigate here. So we've got the cover off and just like any time I always say use your ears and everything else that's going on around you. And you can hear the compressor dim down and not start. So we're going to start with the start components. Go ahead and get this thing unplugged. Or just flip the switch. I'm going to go ahead and plug it that way we know we're safe. I got that switch right there as you're trying to unplug it. You're flipping the switch back on which is less than desirable. So let's get them pulled out of there. That way we can get this thing pulled out. Alright so it looks like we can get to some of the start components there. Let's see if we can get this out a little further. We'll have to put everything right in the way. That compressor is definitely warm. It's not really hot. Look at that. Let's see if we can get this thing out of here. Have a bleed resistor on it. Nope. No bleed resistor. Can't see some liquid it looks like down in there which might be the not good. We're going to short that even though you're not supposed to short a start capacitor. I'm not getting shocked. I'm supposed to bleed it down but I'm not I don't carry the resistor thing around with me in my pocket. Let's get that out of there. So we've got one lead undone. Going to it and we've got 116. 103. 103 area and this is probably rated for 89. Nope looks like it's rated for 161 to 193. Yep it's looking a little weak. Yeah that leaking juice down there probably is not doing it no good. Let's check it one more time here. Yeah it's definitely weak. Let's take a look at that start and see if it's toasty too. A little no room in there. It rattles like it's loose. Let's go ahead and just grab a new capacitor and see if we can make a go but a lot of times I'll just order all new start components that way here's good and good to go. Get a new relay the whole nine yards. We'll just grab that one. We'll wire that thing up real quick. If I don't work then we'll order all the stuff for it. Usually I get my part numbers there I don't order it from the factory because that's just a waste. That looks a little suspicious. Alright let's go grab a capacitor. We've got a collection of different capacitors and we've got a Mars capacitor here that'll work just fine. 161 to 193 should be an exact match. Of course it's physically bigger so it's not going to fit where I need it at. If you need to take some wires in with us that way we can mount it vertically with a wire tie or something because they never seem to have the exact same size. If you order an OEM one then they don't send you everything you need anyway half the time. So let's go ahead and get that in there and I'll add a resistor to this also that way it's always bled down for the next time it starts. Arcing things like that. Part number for this thing is a 93106 AR-ACR yeah 93106 Just a simple resistor there with the speed terminals on it. Okay let's wire this thing up here and just do it rough. For now let's see what we get. That little multi-plug right there I believe it's usually the lights. Let's see what we get here. Doesn't sound like it kicked on so we may have a say start component there or it may just still be off on thermal. Let's see if we can put an amp clamp there on that and we will see if it's pulling locked rotor. There we go. How close that is to things. Yeah it's still warm. Alright well we're going to wait for a little bit here to see if it comes on. That thermal disc right there has got to cool down so once it cools down with this fan blowing right on it it should hopefully kick on here in a second. I got looking at that relay and I don't believe I got both prongs into it so I repositioned it. Let's try it one more time here. Flip the switch. Let's see if it comes on. There we go. Ooh I left a 42 amps and did not want to stop. So let's go grab the ANI and try it and see what we get there. Maybe that start relay is not removing itself from the circuit. Shaking it's not always the, you know, tried and true test. We could check resistance through it but it's just easier to hook ANI up to it, make sure that it freaking works and if it works boom. Ordering these start components are done. I've done a video in ANI which is model A12. It's got everything built into it. I did fry my own meter by accident but this thing can check pastors all that stuff way back before we had fancy digital meters. So it can do forward and reverse by switching the start relays. Let's just try to get the compressor broke loose. So what we're going to do I went ahead and used my meter. My highest resistance is going to be my start and run. Common then is in between. Found out what my start is by the second highest. And then that was going to be one to the left the red. The red one goes there black one goes on top and the white one's going to go on the other one. Got our plugged in there. What we're going to do is just steal power from the plug right here. And we'll flip it on. Now when we do this the condenser fan is not going to run. We can put our amp meter on here. The amp meter I think it still works on this. But we're going to go ahead and do it anyhow just as a precaution there. We got it on high. So we're going to go with the 160. It's a 200 range. We're going to push in our start which is going to energize our start relay. And then when I flip it on I'm going to release it after a couple seconds and that's going to take it out. So here we go. Yeah she's pulling 42 amps. So we can try it again. Yeah she's not getting it. We could try and reverse. That didn't do much. Yeah. This compressor's toasty. We could try breaking it loose but even if I can break it loose let's go ahead and jump to the next higher value for the capacitor there. It's probably not going to help much. It's going to reverse. It started to run a little bit so it did go in reverse. Let's go forward now. Yeah she's pulling 40 some amps. Compressor's toast. So nice thing about that is these capacitors in here are a lot bigger than those little hard start kits you know which I like for times when we don't have the hard start and it's critically needed. Like this one here is not humongous deal. It's just for extra condiments and overflows but this compressor has bearing issues most likely. It turns but it doesn't want to go. My start and run windings all seem to be about traditional. I think it was 12.5-13 ohms and then I think a couple of ohms for start or a couple of ohms for run so yeah anyhow this one's going to be tostomatic. I don't know if they're going to want to sink the money into a compressor. I don't really know it's worth it. So anyhow they own it now I guess so it's no longer worth it but that's going to wrap this one up guys. On to the next one.