 Today we got a walk-in freezer that's warm up to 20 degrees Came in seeing we had oil everywhere Indoor coil was completely clean thermostat was set properly Everything was run on the inside came up here on the roughness. This is what we found Basically tracked it down with the detector verified it with bubbles It's leaking right there on that rotolock style fitting So we're going to tighten her up see if it makes a difference if not may have to get a new seal for it Trying to get all the bubbles out of there The way you can see If there's anything new coming in or if it's just Bubbles created by pumping some action of the pump We did scan around some of the other components to make sure they were Not leaking also We'll let this clear out and then we'll re-scan it You can see the fans have picked it up and just absolutely blown it all around everywhere You got oil markings in the coil The oil levels getting a little bit low on the compressor there We may have to add a little bit to it All right, we went ahead and just scan the inside here for leaks. Like I said the coils look good They're clean in both areas And we had nothing in here. So we're going to go ahead and get this thing recharged up Probably going to rinse off some of that oil so the next guy doesn't see it and uh make him think that they have a leak when they don't Okay, I went ahead and hooked up both gauges going to see how things are going Make sure there's nothing to weigh it missing So obviously one fan's not running Because our pressures are a little low. We're running about 102 condensing temperature We're on 404. We've got a sight glass that's So we're going to go ahead and add finally got a clear sight glass But because the fan is cycling on and off You've got to watch it because once the fan kicks back on again We're going to possibly get bubbles again We're going to try to keep this thing A solid column of liquid to the txv If you don't have a solid column to it, you're going to have issues the valve's not going to work properly So whether you have fan cycle control like this one does This one does not have a headmaster on it So that has to cycle the fan on and off and as it's set up here They've got the first fan shuts down and because you've got Three other pressure switches inside here. They're likely going to shut down the other fan too depending on if it gets cold enough Generally You'll shut down the fan furthest away from your header. You notice your header over here on the side Is uh that fan continues to run they do that with pretty much any condenser whether it's a water cold condenser or a regular Refrigeration condenser when you come from the air conditioning world you think about sub cooling But because we've got the receiver there And all the cooling factors stuff that's going on in that your sub cooling. Generally, it's pretty low You can't go by that everything's based off super heat It appears to be holding steady, but we're going to watch it for a bit. It's generally about when you think you're there It will change and then start being Start showing bubbles again, if you notice too that fan shut off like the sub cooling's doing That cools it down Subcooling drops which means you're starting to lose your liquid It's just something to keep an eye on it. It doesn't hurt. I have an instance just recently where an contamination in the system And once uh, I put my clamp on there to check my subcooling. I seem to have 30 degrees subcooling Yet I was still an empty cyclist or partially not a full cyclist And that told me in the combination of some of the other things my cratures and everything else any conditions that I non-convincibles Because no matter what I couldn't keep it solid and there we are came back again Here's a good example to what would appear to be flood back with the Frigid going in and now that we got ice coming back so to speak to the compressor Our super heat is not showing that Humidity levels and the temperature of that pipe has a lot to do with it that Pipe is running at 20 degrees So the condensing temperature is going to be well below Where it would be freezing on there Because we're fairly warm today about 70 something And humidity levels probably at least somewhere that's 60 percent going to freeze Is able to get her cleaned up. They didn't have water nearby So got this in here. It did get me a cool nozzle here. It gives me the ability to get into tight spots One with some other nozzles there. Thanks to amazon get the link for that in the description Along with along with the the tools I use and all that good stuff's all in description So we went ahead and sprayed all the coil out and degreased it with some of the yellow degreaser um Good old new calgon And at least now We got a lot of that crap out the coil ain't near as bad as what it was As far as the oil stains it ain't real obvious got a lot of that garbage off So the rest can be rinsed away by the rain But we uh end up putting about 10 and a half pounds in this bird And she's staying solid Got a nice green sight glass We did not pull into a negative. We're in a positive. So we don't need to change drier And uh, we're good to go Okay, we're back at this freezer again, and it is not running. So let's go inside and see what the uh temperature is This one says we're at right at 12 This one says we're at 19 And of course now It's not running at all and we have no lights in here Uh-oh Walk-in freezer lights and stuff is powers off The breaker is stripped Lovely Ended up pulling the breaker out of place to check behind it make sure there was no Burnt marks everything is tight and tidy the connections are tight check my voltage drop between Leg to leg and leg to leg and only had 0.05 volts So less than a tenth of a volt The sight glass is still full It's actually lines sweat and back nice and cold Discharge hot Liquid is warm Not hot but warm Both fans are running That's 2 a.m. So it's been off for a while. We'll check make sure those are tight We've checked the connections on the compressor. They're all tight Silinoid don't see no skiffs cuts Contactors free No burn marks everything's tight up here Don't see any cuts or nicks and the wires here here or there Or up in there the lights are on a 15 amp breaker. So if that had anything to it that would shut it down I have had these hot gas sensors Rapid cycle that can contact and create problems in the past. I don't see anything loose or wacky In this area here the rust right here is from The condensation dripping off the suction line falling straight down onto it We're going to check our pump down again Made a couple adjustments there Not set the greatest but once again you're here for Original trip for low on charge because it had a leak You don't usually have to go changing everything Drop it into a defrost make a pump down See where it shuts off at There it goes in the pump down your amp draw And watch our pump down Okay, it shut off at zero then jumped immediately back up It's holding there. We set it for 25 to come back on amp draw is 16 So if it was to come back on could we have the 10 plus 16 17 amps and rapid cycle causing the the Breaker to trip. I would say that is a possibility what I ended up doing is I jumpered that out And uh It does peak to 23 amps But then drops down to nine because the relay is kicking out the electric strip heat We're going to make sure this thing comes back on But I do know that on the pump down before that it uh did a lot of clicking and it was set here about 15 pounds So it is chance it could have came back on It's just at this point you're kind of shooting in the dark just hoping To find out exactly what could have caused it and I hate this because when you're making a guess you Good chance you may not find out what was really going on And we're doing the pump down again Right at zero. I don't like that so Let's change the differential just a touch That should put us a pound or two from the end there Let's make sure it still comes on about 25 which puts us at about a negative seven degrees About 20 25 There we go now we're about three pounds I like that a little better Oop something just released there So five ten almost 15 pounds That would have been about enough for it to go to kick on before it was set for 15 before like I said I did not change it and if it's been working that long a lot of times you're better off not to change things Watch it one more time kicking out 11 Do it one more time Shuts off which should be right about now Jump straight to 16 We're right in there at a couple pounds That increment is five pound increments on this gauge Something just changed internally but she do got a direct vapor injection on this She's holding pretty good there At about 12 pounds Now the only thing I could see that was not Right is this right here is your interlock for your electric strips resistive circuit 15 So we're right at the top of the border there And there's a chance this contacts could be taken to dump Since you've got two sets of contacts if you divide it between the two of them you could split that amperage in half It'll automatically evenly divide if you put power to both legs of the common both legs of the normally closed You'll divide it in half and be seven amps on each which will give you a little extra leeway So we could have that relay acting up and that could have possibly not disengaged as a precaution I went ahead and did a new relay And we doubled up making use of that other normally closed circuit When you do it as you can see here power is coming in on the right side on those two Terminals going out on the other two. They're powered by the clock when it runs It's divided between the two of them. So you got five and a half amps If you was to come over and clamp on the actual ongoing side There you're back to your 14 So you still got 14 and a half going through it, but it's divided between the two of them and That'll help save the contacts a little bit longer And we're going to wrap it cycle again make sure that kicks out That time I checked it and kicked the pressure switch on it immediately dropped out There's no delay at all And then as soon as I let off of it immediately dropped back to the from the nine amps back to 16 Nine was the compressor 16 was the Heaters never went above it So we might be on to something there with that part now. I gotta see whether or not the termination switch works Make sure it's kicking out in time and then find out with the placement of the alarm relay being over in the corner Not in the really in a greatest return air path For sensing is that an issue? It's been like this forever once again That's why we didn't change other things was because things have been like this forever All right, it just terminated out of defrost Fans are kicking on there's 13 We're gonna see if the fans are on inside if there's a delay on it may not be a delay Okay, good fans are not uh kicking on Closed defrost soon There's the new thermostat there. They just came on delay Alarm sensors way over here I don't know Exactly why I have so many issues here, but That's where we're at right now So what we got here is this little burger Thinks it's 17 I had 14 right there. It's not the greatest spot for that So I'm moving the sensing bulb up here Probably ain't gonna make a humongous difference originally. I thought we had cold air blowing on it Put some tape there to kind of keep the air off of it This is where it was installed for the last time on how many years So we just brought it across right there Trying to get in the area that it's sensing out because I think the thing every time I last time I came here This thing was shut down wasn't even calling for cooling and uh We're gonna try that We can always wrap it back up and put it back Here's the relay that we replaced One set of contacts. There's the other one So I mean it is possibility that it was sticking and not opening up when it short-cycled and rapid-cycled interlock was not working Uh at this point So the only thing I think it could be because there's no shorts and it's running And they did say six o'clock this morning was uh, it was out even at six o'clock So I would say it went out at two o'clock in the morning right after defrost or during it Got this insulated. So hopefully that'll keep that dry I've shaken all the wires Done everything I can to make a trip a breaker if there was a short reset the clock back to where it's uh current time and uh Just gonna have to uh play by ear and see whether or not that's it. If it is great. If not, just have to revisit it She is coming down I followed up with the customer the very next day to see if this had solved his problem He said that everything's been holding temperature just like it used to And it's been seven days since then and I have not heard anything back in regards to any problem So it does appear that the blow pressure switch Uh, short cycling the compressor while it was during defrost and the interlock not working as it should Is a combination of the problem. 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