 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and today it's time to paint some necrons. And I know that's going to infuriate everybody because I'm aware they're pronounced necrons but I've always pronounced it necrons and I'm not going to stop now. But we're going to paint these undead skeleton guys from the 41st century. So we're going to do two versions of this. I'm going to take you through the clean version first and that's very quick and easy. I'm going to take for getting an army of ultra shiny scary terminator like skeletons on the table fast and then we're going to do a part two immediately after I'll do both in this video where we then dirty them up and I'll show you how you can take the clean version and make it look old and rusted if you want your particular group of necrons to be maybe from a dynasty that didn't weather the 65 million years so well. So this is one of the few times you'll see me not zenithal prime something when I'm going to start in all metallics. Now this guy has a couple elements that probably can be not metal like some of the interior parts of the connective things I think they're starting to paint black just to make them stand apart and I do like that we'll touch that later but regardless of that just priming and black is usually the best way to start with this and we're going to begin with a little of lejo metal color of course we're going to go for some gun metal gray and then some silver so that's where we're going to begin and I'm going to take you through this I'll narrate over the rest because it'll be pretty fast and we'll come back when he's all shiny and I'll show you some next steps. All right so all this is a two time speed but we're starting out with just some Vallejo metal color gun metal gray nice darker tone get some nice and shiny you notice I'm only spraying him from about a 45 degree angle and above just to make sure that I leave some of that dark underneath. Next up we've got some Vallejo metal color pure silver I'm actually going to hold him down to start out the first work here and I kind of move him around just a little bit. I am focusing in slightly on some areas that I want to be brighter top the head those upper armor plate shoulder pad things so on and so forth just making sure he's popping out nice and bright there again these are super quick steps like you could do so many necron so fast now I've got a mix of a sepia and black Vallejo gaming but you could also use anything you can use washes from GW you can use other types of inks etc and I'm just going in with a natal highlight in other words or a natal shadow I guess a river anti zenithal I'm shooting the color from below that just adds a little bit of extra tone and texture darkness it mats out the lower parts of the many the under parts so you don't get that metallic shine coming up so that's another again super fast so now I made myself a little oil wash this is just keeping it simple so we're just going straight black and now we're gonna that's nice that I'm nowhere near the camera that's fantastic but anyways I'm just got a big brush and I'm just slapping this on all over the place now one of the benefits of using an oil wash is that you don't have to be careful and you're not going to hurt any of your work so I just get it all in there make sure I touch all the parts that are like wet or sorry they have not flat areas and then I take a paper let it sit for about five ten minutes probably and I take a paper towel maybe 15 something in that range and I take a paper towel and I just wipe away you can also use little bits of cloth you can use q-tips you can use whatever you want you're just clearing off all that wash that sits there on the big flat spaces and leaving it in the recesses if you're using something like a paper towel you'll notice I keep rotating the paper towel so I'm not just smudging around stuff you always want whatever you're using like if it's q-tips make sure you clean the q-tips and so on and so forth but the beautiful part about an oil wash is unlike a traditional sort of shade wash which is acrylic and it's going to leave a layer of acrylic medium which is going to dull out your shine just sitting all over the mini this doesn't do that because whatever you clean up it just take it away completely because it didn't have a chance to actually set at all so it just remains in the recesses okay so we had a little bit of a jump there because now you'll notice his gun is all fluorescent that's coming in next week's video when we talk about fluorescent paints so you'll have to wait on that part I shot that in the middle of doing this because I was waiting on the oil wash to dry so now I'm taking some Vallejo metal color silver and what I'm doing here is just hitting those highlights that I want to be really poppy and really bright so a couple edges like the top is legs the back part of the armor plates there the spinal column the top of the head you know just basically anything that I want to pop out and be kind of shiny now one of the interesting parts about Vallejo metal colors you can consistently wipe it off your brush leave very little and then just feather it out it's one of the reasons I love this paint so much it's so versatile with just that silver I can actually create multiple tones and blends and get it all in there where I want it so I'm just hitting down like the side of his skull and you know the bottom of his the bottom of his face and those areas that are going to be really poppy and once that's good and I've got a nice shiny boy now it's time to get out the real shine so this is Molotow liquid chrome oh yes this is the good stuff so when you absolutely positively want the shiniest necrons in the room except no substitutions this stuff if you put it on there rather thick and then kind of smooth it out you will effectively get a mirror it will I have a group of kill team I did a little while back that I did in this stuff and I was much more heavy-handed with it than I'm being here and I can actually see my face like my reflection in their skulls so if you're going true you know Terminator T-800s or whatever that's the way to go you can be pretty heavy-handed with it to get the shine you actually do need to brush apply it it's actually a pen ink but you need to be relatively thick you can buff it if you put it on with an airbrush so it is a it is a buffable thing in other words taking a soft piece of cloth and just kind of rubbing it and it will shine up so that's a cool trick but there we go and now he's a bright shiny boy and you can see just how much that like the headpiece or anything else reflecting those are actually my painting lights that if you look at this headpiece there that it's reflecting out which is pretty great so with that done now it's just a matter of getting the in-between parts darkened so we have a little Riley or something like that gray and a little decay black from scale 75 but you could use anything you could use Abaddon black from GW or any kind of any kind of dark color like that I happen I mixed in a little a Riley gray because it's a green gray and I really like it and in general when you're doing sort of dark black colors it's just better not to use actual black regular black is the absence of color it's boredom in paint form and in general it doesn't do you any favors so if you can mix in some kind of color and on this since green is the only actual color on this guy I mixed in some that Riley green gray to it to kind of give it some more life so this is basically what we've got going on we're just hidden all these little armor spots in between all the skeletal frame that isn't a shiny armor piece is being blacked out and what that's gonna be there to do is to make everything else more contrasted it's pretty quick simple process these guys have very little joints some of the bigger guys in this set have a lot more exposed skeleton or more complicated joints but these guys are real easy so there we go with that we're you know all set if what we're aiming at is sort of the shiny type of necron the important part of blacking out these individual joints and stuff you know this is something they've started doing recently if you look at the newest jobs on the the the models that are out there for this re-release actually think it's a really good idea in much the same way as sort of blacking out the areas in between the storm cast armor helps to set off the color that extra bit of contrast by having those things be darker really helps now if you really want to spend the time you can go in there like they do and you can put little edge highlights on things I'm not gonna do that because we're not aiming at that level of a job here you know we got to put a lot of these little little dudes on the table you can see how we get something that's really shiny really reflective and just all in all is gonna look you know pretty awesome marching across in a group that Molotow when it dries I mean I don't know if you can see that but that's actually like a real reflection of my ceiling lights like it reflects like a mirror so that's why I use it for those high highlights it just really really really really reflects pure almost mirror like sheen so it's pretty amazing you can always smooth it back over with a little bit of the silver which is still bright but not as sort of obnoxious yeah there you go so that's that guy now if you're to the point where you're happy with this kind of a job then you're done obviously like I said well the gun will be next week and how we do the the fluorescence you know so you would take it to that level and this guy would be ready to go now if however you wanted to be a little dirtier well then stay tuned for part two which is we're gonna roll right into I'm gonna do this is one video so now we're gonna dirty this guy up and I'm gonna take this in stages so you can kind of jump off this train wherever you want because you can have him be just slightly dirty or you can have him be really really messed up and by the end we'll take him to sort of really messed up and I'll show you what that looks like okay so with that back to some narration and some high-speed video so now that we made him shiny it's time to mess it up and we're gonna do this with the paint you see on screen right now and I'll show him again in turn but I'm starting and I'm actually gonna do this to where you can jump off of this car this is a wagon at any point you want I'm starting with just some basic agrax or shade the reason I'm using agrax is because one it's black brown two agrax is super weak it is the weakest of the sort of three primary shades of nuln sepia and agrax and you'll notice I'm just pushing it into the shadow areas this can be a good step even if you don't want them very dirty because it will make the miniature more interesting so I'm just always moving the brush keeping it moving quickly and I'm just touching mainly the transition point between the mid-tone and the most shadowed area and it just adds a nice little extra color in there makes them look a little bit old like there's a little bit of grime on there but that's the minorest step now I've got some agrarus dunes which is a contrast paint a very nice brown contrast paint one of my one of my favorites in the range and what I'm doing here is again just reinforcing starting in the shadows hitting a lot of those areas you notice I don't let anything pool I don't let anything settle I'm always pushing around the paint and making sure this is one of the keys to washes and contrast paints and everything see a lot of people slop their brush in there and then just go on and stop like one smooth stroke that's not how you want to apply a wash no matter what you're doing or a contrast paint or anything you want to be putting an amount on and then pushing it all over the miniature with your brush like you notice how relatively little I go back to the paint but now he's starting to look a little more rusty still just tinted like maybe he's old metal if you just want something with a little more character a little more flavor a little bit of age that's where you go now we've got smoke dry rust and pure rust and this is where we're going to get into the real the real deal weathering so I start with a smoke which is a wonderful color from Falejo useful for like a million things but now I'm going with a little bit heavier application trying to really turn those deeper shadows those edges a lot of different areas that catch my interest a darker brown I'm especially focusing on some of these the new the new models have actual like scratches and dents in them so you can actually go and put brown or rust or you know something in those and it'll look like it's appropriate to be in that area so that's what you see me doing right there on the shoulder you can see how that gathered in that recess that damaged you know wound on his armor as it were now I'm taking the dry rust and I'm stifling it over some of those areas still wet it's fine like I just went straight from one of the other and you notice with both the smoke and this I'm moving my brush in a much more stifling fashion so I'm stabbing the miniature I'm not just I'm not just wiping it around instead I want there to be pattern I want there to be texture I want there to be some paint buildup right because that's gonna be a much more realistic take on the thing rust is very random I'm not thinking a whole lot while I'm doing this this is all Zen in the art of rusting necrons okay where I'm just dabbing it dabbing it dabbing it figuring out what looks good and finally here we're gonna get in the orange and this is a you know this is a touchy section so the more of this you use it's instantly gonna look like older metal okay like really heavily rusted and you'll notice I tend to focus the orange on things like the edges the most exposed areas the things like that so you'll see me trace along a lot of edges and almost pseudo edge highlight with it now not really I'm not going for some smooth thing where I'm tracing like we normally do with edge highlighting instead what I'm doing is I'm stifling it along edges and stuff like that right and just adding it in you notice that as I go as I work the paint off the brush it starts to get a little more frayed I still keep stabbing because then I get these nice interesting patterns finally I need to bring that all together so I'm gonna go back into my agrax that first step and I'm just gonna go hog wild okay I'm not gonna cover absolutely everything but I'm hitting a lot of this guy I'll state that yeah and I talk about this in just a moment but you want to make sure you mat all this out after you're done you need to get rid of that bright shiny metallic finish if you follow the exact steps I did go super shiny first and then bring it down but we'll talk about that more in a minute so moving that around you can let him dry rusted out and you know looks a little bit more battle worn at this point so there's lots of different colors you can add obviously I use those particular browns there's nothing special about the particular ones that I used you can use any replace it with Sarah from CPI replace it with lots of different contrast colors or inks or anything like that one thing that I did do afterward was hit the whole thing with a coat of ultra matte varnish because you don't want to leave those super shiny areas on something that's that's all rusted out so that the metal needs to get older as well you can still have some parts that went hidden by direct light like down here on the leg that will shine but they're much more dull especially in reality than they were before but there you go so whether you're looking for some clean shiny little skeleton warriors in the 41st millennium or whether you're looking for some rusty crusty goodness either way hopefully this tutorial will help you out so there you go with that I'll put up some final photos of them here after I'm done but I want to say thank you very much for watching this give it a like if this was helpful to you for any of your schemes but as always I very much appreciate you watching and we'll see you next time