 Hari ini, saya akan bercakap tentang membuat props cosplay dengan Remorse, yang adalah mikroprosessor yang telah dikenal tadi dan NewPixels. Sebenarnya, ini berlaku disebabkan sebuah event D&D di syarikat saya. Misi saya adalah untuk membuat kostum perjalanan. Kecualitasnya, ia mempunyai kelihatan dalam dapur kerana dapur sebenarnya adalah sedap. Ia mempunyai kelihatan ke dalam dapur kerana saya akan bekerja dan tiba-tiba pergi ke event itu. Ia perlu hidup selama 4 jam kerana itu berapa lama dapur itu. So, yeah. So, end product is what this looks like is something like it looks like a wrist bracelet. And they have a new pixel lights that can change colours. So, what skill set will require? Basically this is done over two events. So I have about 4 days to do it. First is, you need a little bit of electronics. And I based it on the Arduino platform using ESP-826 and V-MOS board. Programming is via Arduino. I did some PCB action as well. Some soldering and crimping and some fabric craft as well to kind of build the, you know. Okay, so going to, yes. Okay, under electronics part, let's start with V-MOS D1 Mini. Very convenient board to use. It's an ESP-8266 breakout board. Power is 3.3 volts with a 5-volt voltage regulator. And the new pixel requires actually 5 volts to work with a 1-data pin. So, how many people don't know why it's a new pixel? Okay, quick introduction to new pixel. New pixel is actually an LED bulb, right? But it's programmable. Which means that you can send data to it and ask it to change colours. So it's like RGB colours. And the beauty of the new pixel is you can have like 8 bulbs. You can link them all together with just one data pin. You can control all 8 of them in different colours. So, that's the beauty of the new pixel. I don't need 8 different pins to all this. Okay, but the thing is that with a 3.3 volt board and a new pixel that requires 5 volts, I'm going to power this thing. So next thing is I have level battery. Which is operating range 4.2 volt to 3.7 volts. On the label, it says 3.7 volts. It's a bit too high for Wiimoss. It's a bit too low for New Pixel. But the thing is that the new pixel can run on 3.3 volts. And the Wiimoss, well, if I pass it through a 5-volt pin, a 4.2 volt can be sat down. And the Wiimoss actually is quite robust. It can run below 3.7. So what I did was to pass this through the Wiimoss 5-volt pin to step it down. But the level battery I directly run it into the Wiimoss power. For power also, I need a small factor because I need to be wearing this on my wrist. So it is actually just a drone battery. Besides. So this is what it looks like when you put all of them together. That's the level battery. Super enlarged. Okay, this is the Wiimoss board. And that is the new pixels at the PCB box here. All of them are of course connected via this connector here. So it's easier for me to pluck out and maintain it. Okay, next one is... Right. How do I charge this Wiimoss? Sorry. This lipo battery is... I actually have a TP4056 power board which I connect to a power bank to charge this battery. Because this thing only lasts about 1 hour actually. So it's like, you know, every 1 hour I have to recharge this. Okay, next is the PCB board. So the PCB board is actually very thin. It's actually quite flexible. I've got a sample. It's bendable. It's very, very thin. So which is good because for something that you wear and you don't want something that's hard and thick. So what I did was draw the lines that I needed. So if you look at this, this is what my cell phone looks like. The black part is the ground pin. The red part is the power. And then the yellow lines is the data pin. So Neopixel has four legs. One for power, one for ground, then one for data in, one for data out. So this is where it starts. Ground power is here. And then the first LED is here. So the data that comes from the microprocessor goes through here and goes to the first data in. Then from here it goes to the data out and that's connected to the data in of the next one. So it goes all the way around to here. And you'll notice there's two extra little through holes here. It's like a large sheet down there. That's very blurry. This is very important. This is where you put your capacitor because when you work with Neopixels, Neopixels is very sensitive to voltage drop. Okay? So if you, if the product drop is too high, it cannot read the data properly. So you will, it likes them to either flicker or it gives you a wrong color. So that's why you want to put a capacitor somewhere near your Neopixel. Build. Okay? Next is, okay PCB etching. There are actually quite a few people that have talked about PCB etching so I won't go into the details. I was quite fascinated with the color. Like, when I started, the etching solution is basically hydro peroxide, vinegar and salt. All household items. So it's like plain, clear color. But by the time I finish, it has this really nice color. So it's quite fascinated with it. But this is why I started with. You can see the copper area around it. And after I etched that out, you can see the PCB board behind. And you can see through it. This is where I etched. Basically, I etched the copper away from the front and the back so you can actually see through. Okay. Next is Neopixels. Now, Neopixels, the one that I use is actually this form factor. Currently, not many people actually know about this. Most of what you see is actually in this form factor. It's a Neopixels strip. Or you can get the ring shape. So what I use was this one because this is actually very conveniently diffused. So it's easier for me to work than trying to work with a strip. So the four pins all labeled here. Next is the code. Right. So, okay. The code is basically can face very aggressively. Code sample is there. But busy. Okay. What happens is, it's based on the Adafruit Neopixels library and the RIMOS ESB8266 library. And I took the sample code from the Adafruit, especially with the light chaser and all that. So I modified that code. Basically, I reduced the brightness because the code use is very, really bright. You can't even look at it in blind view. The other thing is that of course I added the Wi-Fi AP to control and change the pattern. So, for example, this one is the default chaser. You can technically login using the Wi-Fi It's a Wi-Fi AP in here. So you can just log into here and then change the color. So you can, I can change it to just red or green or, you know, color chasing themselves. Okay. Next is right. So that's why I can use my mobile phone and change. And it's actually quite useful in the sense that after I finish my event, I actually showed it to my nieces and nephews and they took turns, you know, wearing it and running around all the places. As they were playing, I was changing the color according to whatever play they were having. So, next thing is, yes, no sewing required because I don't have time to sew. So a lot of things is just basically crimpings and hot glue. It only live in the last 4 hours. Okay. So, you would notice that all this, there's very nice round holes here. It's not like I can cut really nice round holes. Okay. The holes that I cut are actually quite horrible. So how do I make it look nice is I use something called grommets which are already kind of mouth nice and all I have to do is just put them together and crimp that. And that will give me nice round holes that fits exactly A&M for my LED to put through. Okay. Then, of course, this is a PVC leather which can buy from average shops. And, right. So, what happens is when I wear this thing, it's kind of floppy. Actually, I actually thought of using things like ties, straps and all that. It's kind of ugly. And I don't want to sew. So, finally, I settled on something which is very simple, a strip of leather and a magnetic clasp. And this magnetic clasp actually comes from handbags. So yes, bought from Daiso also. The other thing that I want to tell is, for example, because again, I do not want to sew so I don't want to strap over my top. So, what was simple to hold it in place is actually a fingering. Right. And in order to hold the fingering in place, I used another very thin strip and something called a paperbread fastener. Cut a hole, punch it through and that's it. It's actually very, very stable and quite firm. How do I create this shape? It's literally hand drawn. Put the hand there and draw it. Then cut it. And how do I know how to space out my my LEDs? Is I just literally place all the grommets in place and then I stuck a cellophane tape over it to hold them in place and then I draw them out so that I can get the shape. So, that's what happens from the template to the thing. Ya, so, if you look very closely they're not actually very flat and round. But it's far away, it looks decent. So yes, this is what it looks like when it's finally assembled. These are actually hot glue so they don't last. They actually came off already. But yes, they're connected so the only thing is this I have another double sided tape to actually glue the board to the leather. And of course, some double sided tape to hold this in place. These are actually kind of free for thing but because I have the backing here which is to protect my hand from lipo battery in case the expert. And of course all the sharp stuff on this board which is not very comfortable. So, with that it kind of holds the rest of this part in place. Ya, so that's the backing and then this the strip and that's what it looks like at the end of the build. Sauce code is there. Slice also is in my github if you are interested. Ya, so that's it. Any questions? Ya. Ya. Is there a reason why you use a drone battery instead of seeing buttons and batteries or something like that? Button, you mean like pill batteries? Ya, something like that. Okay pill batteries is 3 volts. Oh, right. So, I have to use the 3 batteries or those more point 5 like R33 but those are really big and then I have to build a holder for it. Rather not go that you know, too much things to do. So, ya. But it was kind of lucky because I had this slide around. So, is there any other questions? So, if anyone has any of questions, please approach after the talk. So, thank you.