 Oh, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noon, noo. I almost forgot. Noon, noon, noo, noo, noo, noo, noo. Alright, what's up? Been a busy day. Okay. So we've got an update for this M5 stack, like cool little watch thing. It's, biggest thing is the screen's been updated. I think it was like 128 by 80 and now it's like 160 by 128 or something. It's a nicer resolution screen. Oh boy, on the back is, yeah, it's 135 by 240 instead of a 0.96 inch display. It's got the ESP32 Pico, which we love inside in the batteries a little bit bigger. I think a couple of the sensors got updated as well, but this is the most adorable little dev board. So if you want all-in-one ESP32 with a display, buttons and a case and a strap, we have these back in stock. Next up. Next up, we also finally have back in stock the Memento case kit. So if you have a Memento camera and you want the beautiful paint your dragon designed case with the front plate that has an RGBW LED ring and the back plate to protect the buttons and the hardware and the little adapter JST to power the LEDs and a sticker to mount the battery inside. Check out this case kit, we'll be making a lot more of them soon as well, but it's a great addition to your Memento. Next up, we had a request for some thicker solder wire. This is not lead free. It's leaded solder. I know this isn't 6040, but I call it 6040 because it's like 6337. It's very, very close. It's actually hard to get true 6040, but this is close enough, I think, and acts the same. I love this series of solder. I've been using it plenty. Just remember, it's not Rojas and it never will be. It has lead in it. So use it where you definitely lead. We also have lead free solder, of course, and it has Rojas and flux in it. So great for kits. This is a thicker wire, so good for through-hole soldering. We'll make it a lot faster. Speaking of through-hole soldering, what you don't need that solder for is this board. It's the Feather ESP32 V2, which we released a year ago. It's got the new Pico modules. It's got 8 megabytes of flash and 2 megabytes of PS grams. It's a really nice upgrade to our Hazah Feather. With a smaller module, we also had space for a Neopixel for a STEMI QT port and a second regulator, yeah, second regulator. Still has a USB serial converter and battery charging and all that stuff. And now if you want to use it without soldering any pins, the pins come pre-soldered on it. So you just, as you see here, plug and play. It's a buck more, but it could save you some time and effort if you want to get right to it. Next up? Okay, next up we have a series of boards that are new Pico bells. So we're going to talk about all of them together and then I'll shut them off. So this is the terminal bell. So this has terminal blocks on the side. There's big green things, and those allow you to connect, I think, 18 to 26 gauge wire. But look at the product documentation in case I don't have the number correct. Using any flat, small flathead screwdriver, you can open up the terminal blocks and plug the pins in. And what you're supposed to do with this version is you can solder in socket headers or you can solder the Pico directly in or underneath however you want, and you get those terminal blocks as well as some mounting holes. We also have a version that will be in stock tomorrow with the sockets already soldered in. So it's a little more expensive. So why would you want one or the other? Well, with the socket soldered in version, it's ready to go. You just plug in your Pico directly so we can go to the overhead and I'll show this off. So this is the version without the sockets plugged in. This is my prototype, so it's green, but you can imagine it's very similar. Don't forget to look at the bottom to see which way is the USB port, the USB, oh, sorry, I'll look at the pins. This is pin 0 and 1, so this is where the USB goes. So with this version, you can just plug right in, ready to go. If you have your Pico H or the Pico WH especially, it's going to be really easy because it's just ready to go and then you can kind of the terminal blocks, your stomach, your T-port and a reset button. With this version, you do not get the header soldered in, but it means you can do funky stuff like you can use stacking headers if you want this to connect through to something on the underneath. You can't do that with this one because it's already soldered in. So this is a little bit more advanced, but more flexible. Another thing is if you soldered the pins on your Pico upside down, as it were, you could plug it in from the bottom and solder it to the top for a very slim setup. This is a Pico bell, but the same idea. Or if you wanted to solder it directly in, you could have another, again, a very slim Let me line this up. A very slim setup, solder it directly into the pads here and then it's not sticking up at all. So, you know, more configurable, more advanced, but not as plug-and-play. So these are the two versions of the terminal bell. Okay. You have, just to show the terminals, there's a terminal block for each pin. So there's going to be lots of ground pins and then you don't want for each GPIO and then on the bottom, you can see the labeling for what each pin does. Just look on the bottom. And then I also have like four little break apart feet mounting or you can remove them if you want to keep it slim. All right. And then stars is a show tonight besides you later, our team, our customers and everybody who makes this thing. It's the Proto underplate is why the code is Proto under. So this is kind of an inversion of our Pico bell Proto. Again, you can plug in your Pico into it. And what's nice is that we use double low headers. You can see there's a row of headers on the side. You can plug wires into very easily so you can kind of to a breadboard or you can, you know, plug LEDs or buttons directly in as you like. You get a prototyping area in the middle, a reset button and a stem and QT port and all the pins are nicely labeled plus mounting pads. Another thing that's nice is you'll be overhead real fast. We left the holes on the bottom. And so what this means is that it's really hard to see, but these are actually like kind of hollow connected through. So if you have, again, stacking headers, if you want, you can put stacking headers through here. Imagine that this is 20 pins long and you have two of these. You can plug in your Pico and then the pins come out the bottom so you can then plug something else in. So you can have it like stack through and that's why these are super slim style. And then you have nice labeling. And then, of course, this works with the, oops, long, there's the Pico here and then the USB port. Yeah, you can plug the Pico or the Pico W. If you have the Pico H, of course, you're going to be most happy because there's no soldering required and it's like a nice slim contraption. You can use the prototyping area or like I said, you can plug in wires into these pins here. I should have brought a wire with me, but you can imagine plug wires in here to connect to any of these pads that are nicely labeled and they all echo each of the GPIO on the Pico, all 40 of them. And then we have, okay, and then we have coming soon, it's going to be in a little bit later, maybe later this week, the Doubler version. So I took that board and then I like did the clone tool and I put two side by side. So now you can have your Pico, you see on the right, there's like a Pico and on the left, you have a DVI Pico bell. So if you want to like connect a Pico with a Pico bell or other circuitry together and you don't want to stack them, you want to have them side by side, the Doubler will do that. And another nice thing about the Doubler is if you click here, so you have the StemIQT connector for plug and play sensors, OLEDs, whatever, and the reset button, but it doesn't make sense to have two reset buttons and two StemIQT ports because they're chainable. So on the right side or the other side, we have a battery connector for your like standard lithium-ion or lithium-polymer battery with battery charging circuitry and the auto switch. So if you plug in USB, it'll charge the battery. And when you unplug the USB or you power it, it switches to the battery to run and then that will go into the V-SYS pin that will power the buck converter on the Pico or Pico W. So it's like an auto switching battery backup. And then on the bottom of the board, if you have alkaline batteries you want to use, you can cut to disable the charger. And that way you can use this with three AAA or AA batteries. And you can, you know, it has a little bit less prototypic area, but I think it's worth it. And then since you're on battery power, you don't want to unplug and we plug the USB constantly. There's an enable switch. So the enable switch will let you turn off the buck converter on the Pico, Pico W to save power. So let me look at for wireless projects as well. You can use it without the second port being used if you just want like, oh, I want like, you know, this, you know, battery charging and on-off switch and reset button and 7QT. But this way you get a little bit of everything kind of like a nice sprinkle of different hardware accessories that'll make your Pico much, much better. Yeah. No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.