 How to use a thickness planer as a jointer? Well, I would work as Paul Carlson here, a small workshop guy trying to dimension some aprons for my samurai carpenter workbench and I have been doing some work with my hand planes to get these down to pretty close. But I wanted to try using my thickness planer as a jointer. So I made these two different size platforms. They're both 12 inches wide which fits through my thickness planer. I glued sandpaper down to both of them to grip the work pieces when they go through there since the rollers are going to try to push that work piece back. I also have a backer edge at 90 degrees to the edge of my board here and that's three quarters wide but a half inch deep so that I could run a three quarter inch board through my thickness planer. So anyway, I didn't want that backer board to get in the way. Now the idea is to take the work piece that you're trying to flatten and get one good flat face and put it on one of these sliding boards and then look for where, since they are theoretically flat and I've checked mine with all of my flatness checking device and so if the board is sitting on there and I've got a gap underneath the board as you can see down at that end where I have put some shims under it. The idea then is to shim underneath that raised area so that when it goes through the rollers and they try to compress it, they don't actually compress it down to the board, the shims are holding it up so then it gets cut off on the top. Otherwise I would just compress it and then it would spring right back up and my top piece that I'm planing would be the same as the any curve that I have on the bottom. So anyway, I've got this all set up. I made two different ones. I made one five and a half feet long because I'm doing a five foot apron. I made another one for much more frequent uses that's 30 inches long because I thought I'd have a lot of smaller pieces. Real simple build, three-quarter inch plywood, a little stopper on the end, sandpaper on the top, make sure it's very flat and that's all there is to it. So you put your workpiece on your flat sled and you put shims underneath any high spots on the bottom and then you run that through there a couple of times to trim off those spots on the top and then check it out to see if the top side looks very, very flat. And if it does, then you're good to go. You go ahead and run that flat side on the bottom and that way you'll get a parallel top side and then check it for squirtus. I check it here with some winding sticks as well. So if you have no jointer or you have a jointer that is only six or eight inches wide, then this method also allows you to join something up to the width of your thickness planer. I have a couple of links in the description below which will give you other content providers with longer videos on this subject. This old man would certainly appreciate your help. Please give me a like and a share and a comment and be safe in your workshop.