 All right, today's video, puppy bite development and exercises, prepping for elite protection soon to come, okay, when the puppies are old enough. So I've shown some of these on YouTube in the past and I have an instructional video on how to do all the high level elite protection dog exercises. So just to give you a little here, I'm going to use these two five month old Dutch Shepherd puppies. They just turned five months old. And people have been asking me because I put a few videos up just recently of them working with their owner and people are going, who are these dogs? Who is this guy? So this is Michael. He is a client of mine that lives in France. We've been skyping for months ever since he got them, like eight weeks old, nine weeks old. And we've been doing Skype training from here in Miami to France twice a week. And I'm going from the beginning with him on obedience and bite work. So taking him right from the beginning, scratch all the way to make these two. In the end, elite protection dogs, okay? Meaning these guys in the end will sell somewhere $65,000 to $120,000, okay? So that is elite. So the exercises in here that we're going to do, just to show you some of the prep foundation of taking a puppy and what I'm teaching Michael, what he needs to do to start getting the foundation of elite protection. So here, first exercises, you're going to see just like you just saw here, having the puppy run and hit here. This is where I want all my protection dogs to hit in the end ideally, right? Circumstances in the moment change. Sometimes it might be here, but that's we want here, right? As much as possible. So all our foundation work is going to be here. So and I explained in the other videos why here, right? Because one little touch with no suit on, no equipment in this area and here is excruciating. So any touch from a protection dog with those teeth that UI humans were not meant to be bitten by, any little touch in there, people drop weapons very quickly in either hand no matter what side the dog hit. So that is why we do here. We want to end the fight very, very quickly within a few seconds. That absolutely immobilizes people and just right. So you're going to see here rebel running and hitting the pillow here and taking Michael down, which leads to later flying hardcore attacks up here in that area. Good girl, good girl, good girl. So the puppy is the before and that is the later after of developing these kind of exercises. Now, also, we do bite exercises with the pillows and tugs to target that area very young because we want to condition from the very beginning and make obsession about the targets and where we want that mind to always be thinking about striking and hitting in the end, right? When they're older without any hesitation, without any thought, okay? And again, just like this with no hesitation, no thought, you hear the impact of my dog striker by Dutch Shepherd when she hit here, you just hear that suit and she was flying across the yard. Boom. Good girl, good girl, good girl, okay? And this is from the bite development that I did with her. So we're doing that same thing on these two little Dutch Shepherd puppies. So we have the one exercise of running and targeting. And then the other one is stationary close here, targeting that upper area, okay? Because later in suits or for real life, if somebody has an attack or try to hit the dog, right? Or a weapon and they're going to go, we're making sure it's a complete right stoppage that any aggressive action is stopped immediately in these areas. And again, if you've never been in a suit and felt really good, hard biting dogs, right? These are thick suits to take this kind of abuse. It still hurts like heck when they get you in those areas through the suit, right? It's, oh, right, I mean it's hard to take when they get through that suit like that. So again, without equipment on, we're targeting those areas to put the fight done and over quickly, okay? And making sure the dog doesn't get hurt, right? By stopping here, okay, especially with the weapon hand, we're usually targeting the hand with the weapon so that they stop it and when they, that, the weapon will drop. So making dog safety too. So not only putting into the fight, we're making sure by that targeting, okay, that ending the fight and making dogs safe that they're not going to get hit, okay? Because that's why we don't do here, right? Because when dogs come in and are taught here, if you have a weapon, even in this hand and it's not nearly as painful as up here, believe me, I've been hit here without and it's painful, but I could take it. I just switch the weapon and right if it's a knife, anything, bam, bam, okay? So you put the dog at a big disadvantage by doing these bites and finishing your bite work here on forearms, right? For me, that's only prep work as puppy stuff, young dog stuff, preliminary bite work. All ending protection dogs finished have to be up here, okay? And again, occasionally things will happen, some will move certain way and they'll catch somewhere else in here and sometimes here, but it happens, but that is not where we're targeting, okay? And we want to really make sure we have dog safety. That's another reason why I'm not really a big leg guy, right? The dogs come in and shoot for the leg. If I have weapons up here, easy game, stab, bat, punch, kick, right? So I really, I teach puppies, you're going to see here that we do do a leg bite. But that is because we're really prepping the dog, this puppy, possibly for competition later. So I'm throwing in leg bites as well because that is a possibility down the road that we might want to do, okay? So just in case. But real protection work, this is where it's at, okay? Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. Good girl, say the rest. Strike, house. All right, then here we do, we start prepping our bark on command, add an object away from us. All right, shouldn't go out. Return to us. Okay, so these two already have bark on command at the owner, right, with food. And now we have to reverse it because in real life, we're going to be telling the dogs to talk and threaten somebody else that's away from us, okay? So a prep work is doing bark work on objects away from us and telling them the word they bark, okay? So prepping again for later, real protection, we have bad guys, decoys that when they are next to our leg and eventually off a leash, right, with total control that we don't need leashes, when we tell them to bark and watch, they bark at the person but don't leave our side. It's only to alert and bark at them. So as puppies, we start this game with toys and fun stuff to get the cueing behavior and the idea of we want them to bark at something else away from us when told, not at us now. Okay, so many people have a problem with this. I mean, I get thousands of emails a year that people cannot get their dogs to bark away from them, okay? And I have videos on this and how to do these things. So yeah, so that's why we start this early and start getting that talking away and directed at something else, right? And I've spoken about this before, shaking in bite work. To me and my system, I want big shaking dogs. So I've talked about this in other videos. Shaking brings out that primal, right? Creating more passion in the bites. It does a lot of damage when dogs grab and shake. So no suit, somebody breaks in, somebody tries to harm you, your family. It's on, right? They bite and hit these areas and start shaking. That is a nightmare, right? That's tissue, pain. And when dogs shake, it is hard to keep your balance. And I've trained thousands of protection dogs. And when you get shaken really good by dogs, it's hard to keep your balance and try to do anything. So here, for example, Michael with one of his little Dutch Shepherd puppies here, she was shaking the pillow so hard that he was dropping his remote and then trying to go get it because she was shaking so much, the remote was flying all over the place. So that's what happens when you get big shakers. It really disorients you. So not only they're punishing you, you're getting disoriented and thrown all over the place and shaken. It's very hard to fight back when you have massive shakers that are just shaking you all over the place. So it's an added bonus to a real world protection dog. The schnauzer here, massive shaking, aggression. And one day, working with him, he went, hit me up here, grabbed on, started shaking and he popped my shoulder out and I could not move that arm for like a month. It was all out of whack, mangled. It was excruciatingly painful, right? It was just like a little pop, nothing severe, but I was in the suit and I could not move that arm or use it for anything excessive for like four weeks. So that is what shaking can do in the protection game. It adds a lot of really good things to protection work. So I'm a big, big proponent on shaking and teaching that very young. So like Michael's two duchies here, you see right from the beginning, they're just going at it with that tug. And this is taught, we're teaching excessive shaking. So this is something that we're building and enhancing. So just want to give you a little look into starting bite development game with young puppies. And I'll be doing videos on these two because we have a long way to go. We have a lot of advanced elite exercises coming and with these two, you'll be seeing things later on that I've never shown before in protection on YouTube and things that nobody's ever done before with protection dogs. So we have a lot of plans for these two that these two are even going to be the highlight to take the protection dog world to another level. So stay tuned and I'll keep putting videos out on these two as we keep growing their game. So until next time, might be dog whisper.