 Let me show you what this bad boy can do. Hey guys, welcome to the titanium man garage. Today I'm gonna be replacing the brakes on this thing and the rotors, because the rotors are pretty shot. I'll show you what I got. All right, so as you can see, this is pretty grooved out. I'm gonna be taking the caliper off. There's absolutely no brake pads left. So before I go ahead and remove the caliper, I'm gonna go ahead and remove this hub cover and I wanna drain the fluid. And while it's draining, I'll take the caliper off. Hub fluid hasn't been changed in a while. This is really dirty. Not coming off too easy. And it looks like it's all water. Let that drain for a little bit. All right, so I know you're not gonna be able to see this back here, but there is an Allen wrench. Not that goes in the back here. You wanna loosen that up first. I like to do it while it's on the machine because it's easier to loosen. And you wanna remove that so you can push your brake pads in and out like so. And I'll show you why I did that. So next I'm gonna take the two bolts off the back and half inch socket. So great and well. All right, so the reason I removed that locking nut on the back of the calipers. So this pushes in and then the brake pads come off. And before I take that one off, I use a C-clamp and push that piston in. And if the piston on the caliper looks pretty bad, I'll spray a little PB blaster on there just so it loosens everything up. There we go. Loops it up. Just piston back in because you're gonna need room for the new brake pads once you put them in all the way in. But before I go any further, I'm gonna go ahead and remove this hub because this is really, really messed up. All right, so first thing's first. There is a pin in here. Got a pin you gotta remove. Sometimes you get lucky. Thumbs up. So I was driving this thing and I noticed the brakes were kind of felt on the handbrake it would squish in and out, squish in and out like it's all the rotors were warped. I just picked up this machine a little while ago for the kid. And this is the way we built the motor on. So I put the plow on, get ready for our arctic temperatures in Wisconsin pretty soon there's supposed to be a big snowfall. So I'll make sure this all works good. Remove the nut, there's a washer, and then there's the bearing. So I usually just pull this out. There's the bearing, that is bad. All right, so while I'm at it, I'm gonna check the, this is the hillard clutch that engages your four-wheel drive, there's a plate in your magnetic coil. Make sure this line back up correctly. Otherwise your four-wheel drive won't work. And I got a used hub in good condition. It's not grooved out. That'll work nice. Let's slide that back in. When you slide that back in, make sure you don't bump this or move this because those tabs, if they get bent or if this thing whole, this or if this whole thing shifts while you're putting this together, those pins are gonna bend and you're gonna mess up your hillard clutch and then your four-wheel drive won't work. Be careful. Another good idea too is if you're using a used hub on the back side, there is a seal. You might wanna replace that. Put the bearing back in, washer. So now this nut is supposed to be torqued down. I think it was like 90 to 100 foot-pounds. I don't do that because with these used machines, things wear. And one time I did it, I cranked it to the proper torque specs and then this would not move. I just snug it up until I think it feels good and then line up the, see now that's too tight. There, that's good right there. Now my castle nut's lined up with that hole and I can put the pin back in. I don't know if this is the right way to do it or not. It's just the way I do it. Said just from past experiences, if I torqued it to the correct spec, it would not spin. With the castle nut and this cotter pin, it'll keep everything locked in place. Feels pretty good, it's not winning out. I like it. All right then we can put our cover back on and fill this up with hub fluid. All right guys. So with that stop nut moved, push this in. We're gonna go ahead and sell the brakes. Back one like that. One started, the other, shove it in there. Make sure these, this bracket is pressed back. So when you put the other one in, you got room. It's like so. You can kind of move this out. These are like the start, the nut in the back before I install it so I know it's in there and I can see it. This is my Allen wrench. It started. There. Three quarters of the way in. I get to slide this back on and put my bolts back in place. That's the trick part. And this is to show you guys what I'm talking about. The bolts back here, one here, one on the other side. Go ahead and tighten it up. The bottom one. And I'll go ahead and snug up that stop nut back here. Boy, I'll be ready to go. I just got to fill that up with hub fluid yet. I should have good brakes. Now to push the pistons back. I'm gonna have to pump the brakes up. And you might have to possibly crack the bleeder so it's open on the back and bleed them. So here you go guys, here we're gonna learn how to put brake pads in and a new rotor. This is how it's done. Thanks for watching. Hit the thumbs up if you liked the video and subscribe. I've got hundreds of playlist repair videos out there. Thanks for watching.