 How you guys welcome back to the sew along even though this is episode one and you would think well this is the very first video it's actually not this is our second video because I'd like to do an episode zero that includes all the prep work that you need to do leading up to today so if you haven't seen that video if you have not for example cut out your fabric you're going to be way behind today so go back to episode zero i've got it linked here i've got it linked in the description box can't miss it but for everyone else that's all ready to go you have your um interfacing adhered to the appropriate fabric pieces you've got zippers you've got everything cut out and ready to sew you have your machine um needles changed and if for everyone else if we are going by the mccalls 8 1 2 1 sew along workbook then you know to buy today we should have a lot of stuff done already if you don't have this workbook it's a hundred percent free um i created it just for this sew along and just for this jacket that we are working on today um all right so we should have from this list here most of this stuff done already our entire shopping list is done all of our planning is done our prep work is done every single one of these boxes should be checked off at this point and today we are starting with the very first day of the sewing and if you flip to the next page of your workbook then you know exactly what we are going to be sewing each and every day so today tuesday we've got the right front the right front band left front left front band and we're also going to sew the welts these videos are very long i'm not going to take up too much time i just want to point out there are chapters so if you start and stop your sewing you don't sew all of this today or you sew part of it in the morning and part in the evening you can stop and start with the chapters and pick up right where you left off and not have to like skim through the video and try and figure out where it is that you left off so check the chapters if you're coming back for a second view um otherwise let's get to the cutting table to the work table so that we can start sewing oh and turn on your irons alright so first things first we're gonna be grabbing pattern piece number one here she is here and we're going to be stay stitching the side front edge of piece number one now because we have so many pattern pieces that are one layer meaning the right side of the wrong side is very important um if you sew something backwards then you're going to end up with a garment where it has like two lefts or whatever okay so we want to make sure we mark all of our right sides so the right sides on all of these should be facing up so i'm just going to put a pin and piece number one like this so our very first step here is to stay stitch this front edge because we're getting ready to ease this into the side piece we want to make sure we stay stitch it so when we clip into this seam we have a guide as to where not to clip through all right so now that we have our stay stitching you can barely see it because my thread matches so well we're going to be taking piece number two which is your side piece again i have the right sides marked and we're going to be placing it right sides together with your right front now there is a left and right side to the side piece so you see how one has one notch another has two notches we want to make sure we're matching up the one with one notch to this piece here so you can get them backwards if you try really hard but see how this has the two notches so i know that this side over here is what gets gets attached to the back side and this is what gets attached to the front side and since we're going right sides together because i have my pins touching i know that this is the way that it goes in all right so this top line gets lined up our raw edges get lined up there and then our bottom edges get lined up below here and i'm trying to also keep my little plaids lined up best i can i might not be perfect throughout but we're going to do our best okay and so now we need to ease all the rest of this stuff in together there is a notch is it here that goes with this notch here you can see kind of the situation we have is that the what piece is this the bottom one the right front is kind of nice and taut but the side piece is loose so we need to clip into piece number one the right front every inch or so right up to that seam line and that way when we do that i'll show you and then you lay these on top of each other now all of a sudden the back the right front is spreading out so that it lays nice and flat with the side piece this is just kind of like princess seam curve sewing when you're when you're trying to sew a convex curve into a concave curve this is what you are going to need to do anytime you do princess seams sometimes collars you know all of that kind of stuff so this is a good trick to practice and learn okay cool so now we're going to our machine we're stitching this here we're putting this to the side for later the other side of side the side piece and then you have the option to also top stitch the seam whenever you get done so if you cannot press your seam allowance as well top sticking stitching is a really good choice mine are going to press like a dream so i'm not worried about that too much all right so here's what we have removing these seam allowances i mean these pins from the seam allowance and you can see now we have we can we know which ones are right side because we have a seam there and we have this beautiful seam where you can see nice and flat on both sides so i'm going to go press all of mine open again if you were top stitching then you were going to want to press to the front piece and then top stitch 1 16th 1 8th from this seam line like a dream and i did pretty good matching them i'm not going to be able to match all the way across because again these are curves and so you just you can't match straight lines with curves but not bad and then if you want to clip your threads as you go that's also a really good practice i'm not going to be the best at that either but we're going to try okay all right so now we've got piece number three we're on step number five where we are going to be attaching the right front band to the lower edge of this piece that that we've just created so we're going to match notches stitch trim seam allowances and then press seam allowances toward the band which is going to be down okay so we have a little notch here right and then in our front piece or right front there should be a notch down here somewhere as well it's right there so those are the things that we are lining up again all right and there she is you can see i cut this on the bias so it's looking super cute and preppy already so exciting to see it come together okay so now we're going to be working on the welt pockets but what they want us to do is reinforce this here so we are going to be stitching a little stitching line right between these two small dots you can see where those dots were marked and i'm going to be stitching in between them like in between the two pins vertically um and then we are going to take our piece number four interfaced interfaced welt pockets and we are going to press them wrong sides together okay uh we are going to match up the long edges and we are going to baste all along this uh long edge here at a quarter inch seam allowance okay so now that we have those in place okay so we've got our line marked and we're going to be placing the welt on the fabric with the seam the basting line that we just made along the lower stitching line so there's the upper stitching line and then the lower stitching line the basting that we just did literally gets placed right on top of this okay like so and we are going to be stitching between the small circles all right so stitch across here only in between your dots your small dots okay i want to show you up close what we've got here so we have our welt folded wrong sides together the folded edge is toward the band of your jacket the raw edge of the welt is facing like your shoulder then you have um the ends of the welt five eighths inch of them are loops not sewn down at all on either end okay and then we have it stitched through and through uh where is it right here along the quarter inch seam line of the welt and we can kind of set this aside for a minute because we are going to be finishing the lower edge of the pocket facing with a zigzag or overlock stitch let's mark our right sides and now i know that i'm going to be finishing down here along these two edges okay so the pocket facings are finished along that bottom edge they go like this and we also need to grab piece number six on number six you should have your stitching lines traced on i've got mine drawn on here but we are placing the wrong side of the pocket facing this guy to the right side here like so we are going to stitch we're going to go ahead and do this to both of these to go ahead and get them prepared we have our raw edges all lined up remember your finished edge goes towards the bottom and we are going to stitch along the seam line basting these two things together along this uh raw edges here here and here same for this guy and then we're going to stitch one eighth of an inch seam allowance along here just to get these two things adhered to each other then all right so we've got our jacket we've got our pocket now the right side of the pocket has the facing on it we are replacing this right sides together on our jacket but this guy goes on the bottom edge so it actually gets placed right sides together with this thing facing toward you and away from the pocket you should also have your little box for the welt um traced on do you remember the stitching line we made on the actual welt itself we have our small dots and then what do you know we have small dots here too so that is what we're going to be matching up we're matching the lower edge of our piece six box on the edge of stitching that we've got at our welt boom okay so now we're going to our sewing machine and we are stitching only the long edge the top long edge and the bottom long edge we're leaving the middle line just as it is so just stitch along the top and the bottom line that's it do not stitch these side edges either right so this is when things get scary i don't know how else to say it we're going to be cutting through all of this fabric so if you are feeling at any at all insecure about this and you're like i don't know if i've got my line straight i don't know if i feel confident about this abort now um just go ahead and rip everything out and you just won't have pockets and you can skip all of this pocketing instructions for everyone else we are going to cut through the middle line not past where these little triangles are just through the middle line that says i think it says slash on your pattern piece once you do that and then you cut through your jacket as well you cut through the jacket as well i know it's a lot and then we also cut through to these little diagonal lines just get some really sharp scissors these are failing me at the tips they need to be sharp all the way to the very very edge so you can get right in there and again do not clip the welt and then once you're done with all of this clipping then everything gets turned through to the wrong side and that's how you get a beautiful welt pocket okay accuracy accuracy accuracy okay the cutting is accurate the sewing is accurate it's all accurate all right so now all of this gets turned to the wrong side okay this is a sloppy rendition of it but this is what we're going for you need to spend a lot of time at your iron pressing these little corners clipping them even more if you need to to make sure that everything is nice and flat obviously this hasn't been pressed at all and then once all that gets pressed nice and beautifully this guy here gets turned up and the the raw edges that are up top here this guy this raw edge here and this raw edge with the facing those get sewn together along the top and down the sides now when you're going down the sides you are catching everything you've got the little itty bitty triangle pieces from the corners of here these little triangles that are left over all of that gets stitched in all of that gets stitched down here the only thing that's free is the actual jacket itself so then you're going to stitch along here and same thing on this other side and of course like I said across the top so spend a good amount of time on your welt pockets pressing them clipping them and getting them to be as accurate as possible all right I fibbed a little earlier so I've got my sides of my little pocket bag sewn what we're actually going to do is we're going to sew across the top but we're going to leave this little flappy part free oops we're going to leave this little flappy part free so we're going to stitch across here we can even baste it leave this little part free okay so after you stitch the pocket bag then you turn this guy down oh how do I explain it almost kind of like under stitching in a way so it stays where it's supposed to stay okay and once you're done with the right side then you're going to do everything again for the left side you're going to be stay stitching this guy here sewing these pieces together sewing the band on and then doing your welt for the left side as well okay so I finished my left side and my best advice for you here my best little bit of encouragement is to not try and be too perfect about it we are going to see imperfections that no one else is going to see especially from like far away nobody is going to be this up close to your pockets I promise and just be proud that you even did a welt they get easier as the more times you do them meaning like the understanding of the construction gets simpler execution is still very difficult if you're a perfectionist and you want to keep practicing this my best advice is just again with the accuracy like accuracy of transferring the dots of transferring the lines and the markings transfer our accuracy and cutting the little triangles all of that super super super accurate and that's how you're going to get perfect welds they are difficult they are not meant to like I'm not sugarcoating anything here they're hard to do and you can even tell mine aren't perfect like it's a little bit of a humbling experience even for me so if you attempted them I'm so proud of you you should be so proud of yourself too if you didn't and you just have a jacket without pockets that's fine also totally totally fine so there we have our right front and left front all right so Tuesday's checklist is totally done we have sewn everything in the Tuesday category yay go us so as we make our way through the process of making this jacket I want to encourage you to use the entire workbook this will help you stay motivated this will help you stay accountable to yourself and it'll help you stay on track there is a task checklist that again is um meant for you to kind of track your progress so are you in the planning phase of it is it in progress or is it totally done so but this will help you know where you are if you have to stop and come back to it this will help you know where you are plus checking off progress is I don't know so satisfying we also have a social media checklist um where you can uh post whatever you want throughout the week but I've given little prompts um of different aspects of the sew along of the jacket as you're sewing it um that you can take a picture of and post so that you don't have to think about well what do people want to see um so just brag on yourself a little bit look at these well pockets I made look at this zipper I put in you know all of that fun stuff uh hashtags and uh my handle is at the bottom as well to make sure that I see what you're posting and that others who are following along can see what you're posting as well and then we have a really fun daily checklist so every day we are going to be watching the video sewing the specific steps for that day then you must tidy your sewing room after every day you have to um post the social pic that I just talked about and then celebrate celebrate each day you guys celebrate accomplishing something in your sewing room every single day I created this workbook not only to just like give you something to do during the sew along but to really change the way you think about sewing and making progress in your sewing room and doing something amazing you guys what we do is amazing and that should be celebrated tomorrow we will be back for Wednesday's checklist um so get all of that stuff ready to go for tomorrow grab your zippers all of that kind of stuff um and I'll meet you back here tomorrow for the next part of this sew along