 what's up guys welcome to today's video so I just finished editing this thing doing the voiceover and I'm really excited to share this haircut with you guys this is one that I've been really like just wanting to know myself for a long time is how to create those kind of like curved hard lines so I've been working on it and ready to share it with you guys so hope you guys like this technique hope you can use it in the salon hope it opens your mind to just different ways of creating different hairlines within the haircut so really excited super excited for you guys to see it so let's just get started with the video here we go what's up guys welcome to today's video on the video today we're gonna focus on a short to long bob not only is the outer perimeter line gonna be short to long but also the interior layering is going to be short to long as well as we cut concave layering to add some kind of light movement to this haircut so the sectioning is pretty simple we're gonna keep it symmetrical going right down the center and then going from the apex of the high point of the head down to directly over in the middle of the ear that's gonna section off the front then we're gonna go into the back drawing a vertical parting down and going across the occipital bone and a slight diagonal forward really just mimicking the jawline so that's gonna be the sectioning to start off the haircut so you'll notice that I kind of comb the hair over towards the face and then I slide that clip up underneath the great thing about sectioning that way is it just allows the hair to be combed in the direction I'm gonna be combing it as I work up the head shape so it just gets my workflow moving a lot faster so I don't want to talk about degrees of elevation as I'm working in this haircut and the reason I don't want to do that is because I'm working on a round surface so it's almost impossible to dictate exactly what the angle is what I want to say is that I'm creating kind of a medium elevation which is going to give me a slight graduation in the haircut everything is being brought back to the previous so it's a traveling guide in the back and the cool thing about this cut is we're pushing a little bit extra weight behind the ear and then we're going to use that to create this really cool kind of solid outline or defined line that curves right behind the ear which I really love that shape so I think that's the highlight of this cut so notice also each section that I'm taking is slightly more diagonal almost moving into horizontal by the last section so also notice on my very last panel that I'm taking as I drop my elevation even though my finger angle stays the same my elevation drops and it just adds that extra bit of weight behind the ear where a lot of people will start to round that corner and then they'll end up with a hole or just a less dense area I want to keep that density there so that I can use it in my outline later so change that happens on the right side this is something that I think is super important because body position changes throughout haircuts so understanding that on your left side your fingers are pointing up in the air and then on the right side your fingers are pointing down and the reason for that in my mind is that I'm always combing that new hair to the guideline so as I take my guide and I'm working on the right side I'm pushing that new hair into the previous section and then the same thing was happening on the left side with my finger pointing up I was scooping the hair and pulling it into that guideline as I took each new section so just notice also I change my finger positioning on the scissor and that's just because at this point when I get to that corner of the head I if I try to hold the scissor normal or how I would normally hold it I struggle to get my hand positioning in there so when I shift my hand especially on those first couple sections that's just allowing me to kind of get my hand out of the way so that I can get a clean cut and I'm not pulling the hair somewhere where I don't even want it so that my hand positioning fits there so you can see that graduation starting to build up nice even feel I'll always go through and check it so now I comb down that section and I cut it in half so now I'm working at about the mid crown area so the key thing here is just to make sure that you're aware that the head is starting to curve up right so you want to dig that's going to dictate the elevation that you're you're creating now so my elevation is now going into low elevation not because my angle is changing or my finger angle is changing but because the head shape is moving and curving away so it shifts that angle to more of you what you could call a 45 degree angle so still bringing everything back to the previous working my way over to behind here so you can see that shape starting to build up now this is where people look at that and they're like oh I see a hole and that's what freaks hairdressers out because we're kind of taught that that's not a hole we haven't cut the perimeter line yet so when you go through and you do cut the perimeter line then you're going to create whatever line you want so you're either going to in this case we're going to utilize that that hole a little bit that whole area or you could connect everything together and have a nice solid blunt line as well to finish out your shape so you have many options and I don't want people to get freaked out because they see that that that what we call a hole is happening when it's not really a hole so finger position stays the same as we did before so I was pointing up as I worked on to the left side and now I'm pointing down as I'm working across the right side and you can see that shape is really starting to flow with the jawline which is what we want in the haircut because we're trying to enhance that so now I comb down the entire top of the haircut and I'm going to saturate that down again and then we're going to work our concave layering from this point which is going to create disconnection on the bottom but that's great because it's going to create a nice light disconnection because we're cutting these concave layers so we're collapsing the shape a bit and then as it works through on to the sides of the haircut it brings less density down so then when I blow it dry I can cut my more blunt line and I'm not cutting through as much hair so the way that this is going to work is it's I bring down that whole section I'm pivoting off of that high point of the head and I'm over directing it right to that center back so it's stationary guide it's really gonna push that weight forward but check that density right down behind the ear so before it was really thick but because we're cutting this concave layering into it that's starting to lay down it's taking out some of that bulk so it's just a nice light feel to the hair as it falls over disconnections are fun for me I think because it's giving you hair into a place where you can kind of play with it and do different things and create different shapes so it's not always about cutting everything off before it falls it's about cut pushing weight where you want it so that you can do something with it later so here's the last bit you can see I'm over directing everything back to that center back and cutting it's gonna be a very extreme length in the front I'm gonna mimic that exact same process on the right hand side all right so now I'm gonna go in and style using the Paul Mitchell invisible wear volume whip great thing about this product super lightweight medium hold I'm just trying to smooth out the hair to get that polish on it and get it as not straight but what I wanted to do is flow with the head shape and I'm gonna go in and do my dry cutting so I'm using the Paul Mitchell Pro Tools blow dryer and I'm just leafing and and doing a flat wrap technique to really bring in the head shape anytime you're gonna do dry hair cutting especially on a bob the key thing is just to have flexibility at the base of the hair so really working that hair back and forth I see a lot of people blow dry and they blow dry a part into the hair and then you can never get that part out so just make sure that you're constantly passing the hair back and forth lifting it to give it a little bit of volume and then when you go in with your iron we use the head shape as a guide and I just follow the head shape with that iron so now we're gonna do our detail work this is where it gets really fun guys so you can see that this isn't really much of a cut at this point so now I go through and what I want to do is just start to create that point and create the curve in my hairline so all of that over direction that we did at the very beginning pushes the weight down into this point and when you have weight you can get a really nice solid line so you can see I'm just using the tip of the scissor the other thing I want you guys to notice and I didn't cut much out of this technique because I'm constantly refining that line over and over again where some people don't even show that part of the haircut but there's so much work that goes into really refining and and getting this line the way that you want it so I didn't want to cut much of that out at all because I want you to see the process so notice that I kind of just start to get some bulk out and then I go a little bit deeper into it and I just keep working that curve until it starts to look exactly the way that I want it now I've got that curve going and I'm go through and do a little bit of point cutting because we did that on the concave layering it does build up a little bit of weight you can see that height that heavy point into it so I don't want that point to go away because I cut it on purpose but what I wanted to do is just lighten it up a bit so a little bit of deep point cutting takes care of that now I'm going to use my comb as a guideline notice that my comb is pretty much parallel with the jawline at this point that's what I want to start creating the first pass is getting the bulk out of there so it might not mimic the jawline perfectly then once I get that bulk out of there then I start really defining that line so you can see still using the tip of the scissor going through over and over again just really getting that line exactly the way that I want it so you can see starting to mimic the jawline there so then I take another slight horizontal slight diagonal forward I guess you could say parting and again following the jawline on that as well and just working that line over and over again using the the underneath as my guide one thing that you won't really see me doing on this is sometimes I'll take a section of hair and I'll use the smoothing iron and I'll go over it just because as I'm clipping it away sometimes it bends the hair a little bit so okay I did show you so so I go over it with the iron just smooths the hair out and then I can continue cutting my shape scooping the hair up no elevation here just holding it in the comb to get a nice defined line we'll get that last little bit now I'm connecting the whole thing together so you can see that line really coming to life so I probably spent about 15 minutes total on all the dry cutting for this haircut so you could definitely see that I sped it up and everything but notice how much I'm really cutting into that I did the same thing on the opposite side and then at the very end I like to do a little bit of a pass with the blow dryer just to get all the loose hairs out and also just kind of form the hair to the head shape and this is our end result hope you guys like it hope you can use it in the salon hopefully it's a haircut that you've been wanting to learn for a long time and now you have a better understanding of what it's all about thank you guys so much for watching let me know if you have any comments below and I'll see you next time