 new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new! All right, let's kick it off. First up. First up, we've got, you know, it's like LED strips. These are non addressable LED strips. You see that MOSFETI in the background? That's an RGB LED driver. This is an LED strip that has analog LEDs in it, so not a neopixel. You've got four wires that's plus 12 volts, green, ground, red, ground, blue ground. If you go back, you'll see the whole strip changes color all at once. It's going to be less expensive than Neopixels. And also a lot of people have ready to go 12-volt LED drivers built into architectural or home or automotive stuff. And so for those uses, this LED strip is handy because you don't need a separate controller. However, one thing to note is that this is a side light LED strip. So the light comes out the edge, not at the front. We have a separate one that has the light that comes at the front. But for some people, like they want to have, especially if you want to curve it around an unusual rounded shape, this is going to do a much better job because you can, of course, attach this to the edge of some wood or laminate or metal. And the light will come out in a nice thin strip. So analog RGB LED strip, that's right angle output. Next up, dental tools. Now these are, well, I saw this, somebody tweeted about this. I was like, oh, these are really good for the idea. So whatever you're. We've only needed these multiple times in our lives. It's kind of a classic tool in Allen Ranch and a normal driver. So you get pH 1, pH 2, pH 3. And I think 6 by 0.5 millimeter flathead. The kid actually came with more. And I was like, only these two were really useful. So we're talking these. They're hard steel and they're magnetic tip. And I'll show them the scale so you can see on the overhead. We'll add it. We added a demo, but it didn't come in afterwards. Yeah. So what's nice about these is that if you are working on something where you have to get into an unusual gap and you don't want to take apart the whole thing, like you've done that, you're like, oh no, I forgot one thing. I don't want to take apart the whole robot or whatever. You can get in there and you can wrench it on. One thing to note, obviously, these are not hex wrenches. And hex slash Allen wrenches are designed for torque from the side, whereas flathead might not be too bad. But especially Phillips is not going to be amazingly good at getting torque coming from the side. You have to really press this in so you don't strip the head of the screw. So it's not for high torque situations, but it could be good if you just want to get something kind of finger tight. This would work fairly well. So I like these. They do look like dental tools, but I like you can get it. And I think I wrote in the text description, I think it's a little bit more than a half an inch of clearance you can get in there and open up a screw. It's kind of nice. It's got magnetic tips and knurled grip. OK, next up, we got big nudes by request of people. Can you carry the 600 and one meter version of these nudes? So we do. We have the 1.2 meter and the I think this is the that's the 1.2 meter, but it looks the same. It's got the edge. I'll show this on the overhead. That's the 0.6. And then you have to go to this one. So we got this one, 0.6, this one, 1.2 meter, which is really long. Yeah. And keep going. Show how long it's between the two. It's like 48 inches long. And yeah, let me go to. Here's another way to look at it, too. Quarter, quarter, quarter, quarter. OK, so this is, hold on, I keep the wrong plug. OK, so let's go to the overhead. That's right. Yeah, I mean, it's for a limited use. It's illumination. Yeah, so one thing that's nice about these is that even though they're single sided, the light does kind of come out the other side kind of nicely. And you do see the little dots in person, but they're pretty smooth. And I think, you know, for more than a couple of inches away, it'll look like just one long strand of light. The trade-offs of having such long strips, 0.6 and 1.2 meters is that you need a higher voltage for these. I tried to get them to make them for me in a lower voltage, but they were kind of like, no, you can't do that. So the 0.6 needs 12 volts, and the 1.2 meter needs 24 volts. It's quite a bit. I'll say that even though I have this just plugged in here right into like this is my 12-volt power supply, it gets very hot. I would put a resistor in to try to current limit these to a half an amp each, half an amp through 12 volts or half an amp, just six watts, or half an amp through about 24 volts, which ends up being like 20. It's a little bit 11.5 volts for the 12 and like 22 volts for the 24. So just basically put a little resistance in there so you're not driving it directly, especially since your 12-volt supply might give you a little bit more than 12 volts. Otherwise, they do get a little bit warm. I mean, I don't think they're going to get self-damaged, but they are toasty. So they're expecting either current control. I'm going to be adding a little bit of resistance in there just to slow it down. And of course, you can PWM dim them. That'll also work very well. You'll just need a 12 or 24-volt power supply. We do have in the shop adjustable power supplies that go up to 24. And we have a, this is actually a USB power supply. So it's USB on the other side. You can get either USB-C or USB type A. Pick that up. And I'm going to put us on here. Can you pick it up and hold it up to see what happens here? So bright. Yeah, it's neat. Yeah, I mean, it's meant for light. I mean, it should be, it's illuminative. Not like super bright. You're not going to light up. It's not like a spotlight. It's neat because it's making some of the green screen come through. Give it a little halo. That'd be cool. It's a neat effect. That looks good. Yeah. Ring light. Yeah. Wonder Woman's jump rope. Jump, yeah. Yeah, the long one, especially. The jump rope of truth. Okay. Okay. So, big nudes. Yeah. Big nudes for big nudes. Okay, stars to show. We have two products for that this week. Okay. Please. First one is this swirly grid. This is something that Scott and Jebbler kind of were chatting about. Jebbler designed the open scad version that was 3D printed. And then Scott came in and was like, ooh, this could be made out of PCB material. And, or maybe I said, I don't know. You made it in Kikad or Kikad. And I posted in the product link, you can see the script. If you want to generate your own and manufacture them, go to town. This is an aluminum-backed PCB and it's got this grid on 0.2 inch spacing and each hole is point, sorry. It's 0.2 inch spacing between things and the holes themselves are a little bit more than 0.1 inch in diameter. So the dashes are like 0.11 inch and the holes are 0.1 inch diameter. And by having this, instead of just having pegboard dots, it means that you can handle components that aren't exactly on 0.2 inch gridding because our feathers, for example, are 0.9 by two inches. And a lot of our STEMQT boards are 0.7 by one inch. So you see it's like they're on a 0.1 inch grid but they're not on a 0.2 inch grid. Or maybe you have other dev boards that you want to plug in. So what's nice is that because you can slide the components around, there's always going to be some place that you can connect the components. The only thing is, that demo is still at the office. And also there's numbers because you can, you know, to specify where to have a specific product. You want to just hold that underneath the overhead real fast? Yeah, I can hold it. I can also go in grab. I mean, you can see like, you know, if you wanted to mount this, you could find like, okay, maybe like this hole and that hole would match or like this, this hole. And so you would go for these two slots and so you could mount it that way. Could do a cool cyber deck thing with all this too. Yeah, this came in kind of interesting. So there's always like some combination of like forward up down slots. You could weave nudes through the holes too. That's true. You can do all sorts of stuff. But it was designed for, you know, feathers and stem acutee specifically because Scott was like, oh, I'm trying to use all these projects. Stacky on the, we call them stackies where if you order these, maybe pick up rubber feet. Yeah. And I recommend, I will say, we have these two M 2.5 nylon screw sets. So M 2.5 is 2.5 millimeters, which means it'll fit very nicely in the 0.1 inch holes and slots and they're nylon. So they're non-conductive. So these standoffs are great pairing because you can use that to keep your boards off of the aluminum backing. Cause remember this aluminum backing is conductive, but it's also nice because you can cut it, you can bend it, you can, you know, file it very easily, would not do that with FR4. Or you can also use it as a ground plane, if you so wish. Okay. So interesting design. Good work, Jeff. Do we'll start the show this week, so as you lead our team, our customers, our community is... The iSpy QDPY. She's a great little rhyme. So this is a board for QDPY and Shao. DevBoards is a little BFF. It's a best friend that fits on the back and we'll let you plug in almost all of our displays and E-Inks now have a TFT displays, E-Ink displays and others have an iSpy connector and that lets you connect to them without doing a lot of wiring. So if you want to add an OLED display, you know, we have the STEMI QT port on the front, but if you want to add a color TFT or an E-Ink, you would want to use one of these because you'll need the SPI port and you'll need DC and chip select and maybe you want to also do the memory select, SD card, backlight, you know, all the pins. So I've documented in the product guide what each pin goes to, but basically you can get iSquad C and SPI through and then TFT, chip select and data command control on the RX and TX lines and then memory, chip select for E-Ink displays if you need it, backlight control if you need it, interrupt for touch screen if you need it, touch screen, chip select and SD chip select. So I can show on the overhead. I've got a little demo. This is an RP2040 QT Pi and then I've got the BFF on the back soldered in and then you see I just plug in this cable very easily. This is a slim style, but still you just use one of these low cost FPC cables and it slots right in and then latches down and then you can press the reset button and it's got SPI and I picked this particular board because it's got a touch screen. So the touch screen goes over iSquad C, the IRQ pin is also going through here. So when I touch, it gets an interrupt and then knows to update the drawing and then it updates the TFT. So it uses almost all the capability of the iSpy cable, but you know, no soldering required, just plug in this cable and you're ready to go. So almost all of our screens now have this cable connect, can make it very easy. It's the finest way to drive a screen. Yeah, it's just like, I just wanted to make, people were just struggling with like wiring and the breadboards. This way you can mount this in one place and have your driver chip elsewhere so that the USB can be connected to. You can use a small screen or a large screen, go to town, we'll be doing of course more iSpy displays as well, but had to go through and revise the ball, which is something I've been doing for the last year. That's new products. Ooh. fikjip Bonjour hello han hi hi hi hi hi hi hi