 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. Well guys, we are on one of my most favorite things in the world to work on a generator. So, and it is a Generac. We have what looks to be a problem. Most infamous problem that I've seen several times. And that is no display. So if you have no display, the first thing you should probably check is your battery. See if you've got voltage at it. You don't have voltage at it. It's probably dead. And then I check the fuse and I make sure the battery charger works. Let's tear into this thing and see what we can find out. It's been two years and a couple months since it's been checked. Oil is about halfway mark. Yeah, it's in a safe zone, but you really need to keep an eye on your oil. It's an air-cooled motor. It burns oil. So we're on the positive and negative terminal of the battery. And she's running right at nothing. So that's not a good thing. Let's isolate the battery now and see if we have any battery charging circuitry and maybe just the battery is damaged. You can feel a bulge here in the side of it and there shouldn't be any bulges. So the battery is went bad. And this is one of those ones I absolutely love. See how it doesn't come out. You got a man handle this puppy. I got looking a little closer at this. This ain't the day I did it. Next schedule service. Should have been in 2020. It's been four years in a couple months since I've been here. So this battery, I mean goodness gracious, it's kind of crazy. Let's go ahead and get this undone flat pliers. Talked about it before. It's not the same as a Crescent. There we go. So we're isolated there. Let's come down here. See if we have voltage between our battery charger circuitry here and the terminal. And we do not. The controller might have a problem or we lost a fuse to the battery charge circuitry on this. I'm pretty sure this one here has a dedicated 120 volt line going to it. And the guys, like I've said in the past, I don't do these very often anymore and I am not keeping up a date. So if you want to judge me, that's the reason why I don't know all these things because I don't work on them hardly at all anymore. When the newer controls came out, I went into the commercial realm and then I didn't hardly work on any of those. I got grandfathered in on the others because these are simple compared to the commercial. That's why it is the way it is. So we've got the panel off and you've got your connections down here You've got your L1 or N1N2, which is your sensing wires, which is 240 volts, 120 volts per leg. Then you have your 120 volt supply for your battery charger, which is T1. You're able to come down here and go into those prongs right there and there. And we have nothing between the two of them. And it's the same thing with T1. So it appears we have potentially two fuses blown, which is kind of disturbing. They're only 5 amp fuses. So let's go ahead and get down there and check see what we got. The system actually is still live. Alright, so we have a whole house transfer switch down here in the basement. Yeah, so let's go across this fuse. We got 120 volts on that one. This one here. Basically nothing, so it means it's okay. And our battery charge circuit is 124. So yeah, we're at the very top end of our voltage here too. We're getting up there 249, 250th area. If you go to neutral 125, 124. So the top one and bottom one's bad. I think what happened is the battery went bad and then drained the battery circuit and then eventually blew the fuse. Now why it took out the N1? I'm not sure. It could have been. We had some major storms and I believe they said this happened when it had a storm. But at this point being some battery should have been changed a while back. I'm not too horribly worried about it. We're going to go ahead and get those changed. It really should change all three of them. We're just going to do two for right now. They're 5 amp fuses, which are smaller. And I don't want to blast them if I don't need to. Definitely want to have the correct size polar, which is a smaller one as you can see. Cut those down in the links below. So where's that? And what I'll do is I'll usually leave these behind so they know that they've blown. And if they blow again, they'll know they've been an issue before. In case they can't get the history. Now just as a precautionary, I went ahead and went with all the fuses pulled between N1 and chassis ground. Had 1.5 mega ohms on the one, nothing on the other, which is still super high on 1.3 now. Mega ohms. And in the battered church circuit came in about 500,000, or 350,000 now. So nothing's a dead short that I see. So we should be able to do our thing there. They ran wires actually rated for the voltage. And it's on its own thing here. And then you get the control voltage on its own. And that goes out around and eventually I think goes into a box. So let's go ahead and get these fuses in. I want to put the battered church circuit one that I'm reusing on the bottom one. I'll grab these other ones there. And this one here. There we go. So let's go ahead and check voltage now. See if the voltage is coming through, whether or not it tripped. Then we did it. So go there to there. And we've got 250 volts. And then going from the other one to the top one. Go to the second one, because that's a 120 volt circuit. So I'm just trying to catch the other leg. Don't always remember which leg switch, so it's 250 there. But if you wanted to go neutral to the battered church circuit, 125 volts. So there we go. Take a look at our coil here. This is all high voltage. So you don't want to be sticking your fingers in here if you have no clue what you're doing. And everything looks like it's correct. So let's go ahead and go back outside. Everything holds. We'll go ahead and get that other fuse change. Let's go ahead and go back outside. All right, before I go out there, I wanted to point something out. I just thought of it. Okay, so with the battered church circuit dead, everything's dead. This is dead. I went ahead and grabbed the new fuse since it didn't blow. The old one. You put it in. Look at that. Power's up. So obviously the controller out there is now getting power and the battered church circuit works. That's a good thing. So another thing we could have done. Come down here, put it on DC voltage. Everything's aluminum, so nothing wants to stick. Come down here to common, which is zero and 12 volts, which is 194. And look at that, 12.52. So it's got power. It should charge the battery. It's a little low voltage, but like I said, that's not necessarily the correct side of it. So let's go out there and see what the battery voltage is when we put the new battery in it. And see if it's higher than what the battery came as we bought it. We got the battery undone coming across here to our terminals. Going there. And there we are at 14.09. So the battery charge circuit is working. Let's go get a new battery. So I've got the battery. Got a diehard here. It's 510. Should be about 530, 525 actually. We're going to do a quick test on it. So we're going to do a standard battery test, accurate test, cold cranking to get down to 510. That's what it's actually rated at. Hit test. Great. Cold cranking came at 551. So battery is good. It's charged up. We're good to go. Let's go ahead and get this thing in the generator and see how we get. I want to make sure these don't touch each other as we're trying to get this battery in. We want to make sure we put the positive towards the front. That way when you lift this thing up and have to tilt it backwards, you're not tilting the positive right into the fuel regulator. Total crap design. And we do have some spray to actually get the positive on first. There we go. Then we'll get the negative on. And we've got some protective spray here to help protect it. So we're not getting corrosion later. We could write all the specs down too that we had on the battery. Now we have some resistances and stuff like that you could write down to look at later. And like I said, these are not channel locks. They are flat. If you've watched the other videos, you're probably saying, no kidding, dude. Get this upside down. Nope. Yeah, got that. We've got some spray on this thing. Get it up underneath there and we'll wipe off the excess. Once we get it in place, make sure this thing runs. That way the homeowner can go to work. Had to be here first thing. Got to watch these wires because the way they ran them, they can hit right into the fuel regulator. That's such a shit design. There you go. Like I said, you got to make sure them wires are not hitting the fuel regulator there. I like to push them back down in there so they're not right up against the vibrating. Yeah, maybe we'll just bring it around to there. All right, selector hour. We're at 8 o'clock, 842. Remember, this is military time. So let's get that set up. Month. We're in September, the 22nd. We'll go backwards and make it a little quicker there. 22, utility loss delay. Change oil filter. Yeah, no kidding. Hit enter if the item has been changed or else hit escape. Switch off. Inspect air filter. Inspect spark plugs. Switched off. Inspect battery. Switched off. So all those reminders are on there, which they had a green light that is normal. Then they have a yellow light, which means they have maintenance to be done. And they ignored all that. So go to history. Larm log. There's all those alarms. They've been going on for a while. Let's go to run logs. Let's see when it last ran. Last ran 922. Nope. That stopped. Okay, running exercise. It did 821. So last month it did it. See, 12 minutes later. So it ran an exercise. Not even, you know, last month. It's been running pretty good. Pretty cool. Let's go in here to edit. Language. Start up delay. Reset maintenance. Yes. So we're going to go through and do the oil stuff. 12 o'clock on Saturday. Current time is correct. 60 Hertz English. Started to lay 10. We've already set maintenance. Cool. So we're out of there. That was under edit, I believe. Yep. There's no slow speed or any of that. This does have the servo control there. Debug inputs. Inputs utility voltage. Utility. 124 volts. So we just blew a fuse again. Fantastic. That's great. So now I've got to go get another fuse somewhere. That's awesome. Outputs, nothing yet. Oh, there's quiet test. Test, quiet test. Nope. We don't want to do that. There we go. So let's go to exercise time. Quiet mode, no. Quiet mode, yes. Yeah, okay. Cool. It is a no. I've already changed that then. All right. So we've got a problem with that fuse. We've got to get that fixed. I'm not sure what's going on with that. We may have an issue. May need to isolate the wires. Check for continuity to ground. Check between the wires and isolate it. We're going to have to let her know what's going on. Let's find out if the battery charge circuit is working 13 volts. So it appears that it's charging. So like I said, we just blew that one fuse. See how these guys ran this stuff. You get this wire kind of just dangling around here. Comes in, squeezed into all that right there so that it can short out. Comes out of there into this box on the backside of it. Let's take that apart. You're not supposed to put high voltage with low voltage to be in its own separate thing. Which looks like they might have done that. Got to go into there. I believe that's coming all the way in. Yeah, so let's pull that box apart and take a look in there. We've got the cover off there. Does not appear. It's like a Romex style wire. Does not appear to have rubbed into anything, but something's happening. Don't know if we have a back controller. Who knows. Oh yeah, let's see if it'll start up and transfer if it will. Actually, you know what, let's not do that. Let's see if we can get that fuse fixed first. Alright, so watch this. We go across our two fuses. Get to 249 volts. We've got to break in the wire then. So one of the wires probably is broken, shorted or whatever. So let's go ahead and pull these fuses out and check wires on both sides that way we don't short nothing out. And then we should be hopefully good to go. That's great. This fuse is pulled. This is dead. That one's a little loose. That one's tight. I looked all through here for shorts. Didn't see anything. Going down to the bottom, coming across. Up and going across, it goes into that mess of expanded foam. Going to get that tightened up and go outside. As I got thinking about it on my way out here, I should have probably checked that with my meter and not just trusted the display because chances are there might be a problem with the wire going from here to the controller. So all you've got to do is push down on that and pull it out and need both hands. You can't do it with this. And this is aluminum. You can't mount to it for a camera. Alright, so we've got good connections there. I'm going to insert them to see if by chance maybe they got shoved under there with the insulation underneath of it. Let's try it again. I don't know why it would have all of a sudden became an issue, but the white one goes on that battered church circuit there. Push in and it grips boil. Boy, it's colder than heck out here. I think it's kicking on. Whatever. Alright, let's try that. Just down to this path here. Normally we don't have ground running with it, but since it is, we got it grounded. Let's see if we can get down here and get to this backside there because you can see, sorta, right there's those wires. Yeah, there it is, black over there, black here. Give those a couple of tugs. See how those are. Since it's dead, we can go ahead and get our fingers in there. So, going to our terminals there, we have 249 volts. Let's go into our debugging area and see if we've got it here. Inputs, 124. So we've got it there, but not inside the controller. Not good. Let's unplug and re-plug. Our plugs down here in the module. I don't remember which one's which. It'd be a lot easier if we take that bolt out so we can get this flipped upside down. Let's kind of paint hind in. If that one does anything. Nope, let's slip it upside down. We've got the module flipped up and three bolts, one here, here, and underneath here. Here's those yellow wires coming down and over to there. So going to those two yellow wires there, we have 250 volts. It's coming in. You can see the yellow wires right there. I'm going to plug it back in. If it doesn't see it in the controller, the controller's bad. Simple as that. Okay, the utility voltage still reads 123. Got the meter on ohms. Check the fuse just for giggles. And it comes in good at .02. So it's no problem with the fuse. So if they got a bad controller, you'd order a new one. That's going to wrap this one up, guys. Normally you would just have a bad battery. Possibly a bad fuse, but usually it's just a bad battery. I do not like that. Let's fix that real quick. This should have been put on spade terminals. Never that kind of deal there. We'll fix that real quick. But yeah, they need a new controller. I don't know how long it'll be before I get back with that. So we're just going to end the video there. But as you can see, it's just the normal stuff. So that's what we have. All right, so we've got that wired there. It's going to look a lot better. We'll have to worry about those shortening out. Downstairs they have a little flat plate underneath of it. It pinches the wire. So they got away with that okay down there. But I told the homeowner what's going on. And we're just going to have to get the module ordered. Don't see what else you can do. If you've got 120 or 240 volts coming in there. I mean, we could try powering the module down again. Yeah, and not much you can do about it. Okay, well, like I said, that wraps this up. I'll have to come back and get a new one in there.