 Hi, I'm Austin. I'm Michelle. And I'll guess what Sneech starts right now. But what SneechO is sponsored by Lombard Hobbies, your value hobby shop for over 40 years of modelers helping modelers. Big inventory, value pricing, fast shipping and great service. Additional support is provided by Walthers Trains, everything you need to build a great model railroad. Check out their website at Walthers.com. And thank you for helping us support the best hobby in the world. This is what's neat for August 2021. I'm your host Ken Patterson and this month, George Bugatuck gives us a 38 minute video on how to model Civil War era locomotives, i.e. 440s. He does a magnificent job. He shares those two locomotives that he's built, including the General, which is absolutely amazing to see this month. Speaking of the General, Walthers has announced a brand new name train in their passenger fleet. And this is the Pennsylvania Railroad General. This train ran from Chicago to New York with connections to Washington DC. Four of the cars are completely new tooling. This train is powered by Walthers Proto EMDE-8 locomotives, absolutely beautiful in two Tuscan red paint schemes, the five stripe and the single stripe, both available with standard DC or low sound five DCC decoders factory installed. This is a very special train that you would see in the 1960s and this is an 11 car consist in their new line of passenger cars. This train is also available with decals of car names and numbers or printed names and number and or a very special limited edition set that is 13 cars long and has over 130 passengers and railroad crew in it and lighting. This is an absolutely tricked out train. Pre-orders are very important on this. You've got to get your orders into your local hobby shop by August 31st. You can find out more information by looking at walthers.com slash the general and be sure if you want to order a set, you can also call up Lombard hobbies. They're available to place your order for this set of passenger cars. So look forward to this new announcement from Walthers and be sure to check out the What's Neat this week podcast. We record four or five Saturdays every month giving you updates on all the new information on the hobby, new products, special guests. Once in a while we work a how-to in there. We talk about all subjects, model rarity. That's the What's Neat this week podcast. And so with that, let's continue on with the rest of this August What's Neat. Hey guys, George here and on this segment of What's Neat, I'm going to share with you a little of the behind the scenes of what it took to upgrade this Bachman HO Scale 440 with the new tooling to represent the general as she existed in 1862 during the Andrews raid. Now as many of you regular What's Neat viewers know, a few years ago I had taken the Bachman Standard Texas from the same production run and added a few minor details here and there to try to upgrade the overall performance. Now some of those upgrades included replacing the tender deck, putting some real wood on there, adding some bell cords, changing the exhaust stack and just a few other little minor details including a cabin terrier. Now this one with a lot of research I was able to find documentation to show just how the general existed in 1862. So we're going to take you on the journey. We're going to show you some of the things that I did to get this locomotive up and going. And so let's go ahead and get started. Now the first thing we do is do a little bit of history on these locomotives before we do the work. Now first off when it comes to the locomotives, the general in the Texas, there's a lot of information out there. Now these two locomotives were involved in what's known as the Great Locomotive Chase back in 1862. General Andrews and a group of Union soldiers snuck down into the south and hijacked the train at Big Shanty, Georgia and stole it and started running northbound to cut the supply line between the Southern forces in Tennessee from their supplies coming from Georgia. Now the Western Atlantic Railroad was a major thoroughfare for all of that. Now during the raid when the locomotive was stolen with the determination of a conductor named William Fuller, he was determined to get his locomotive back. So he chased those Union soldiers down on foot, use of a hand car and three different locomotives to catch up to those guys before they were able to recapture the general. Now along the way, his pursuit helped them to minimize the amount of damage that was done to the railroad. So therefore the Southern forces were able to survive a little bit longer. Now there's a lot of history out there and a lot of stories written on this. Some of the most famous ones are the comedy movie known as The General by Buster Keaton from the early 1900s. Now also there's a movie out in the Disney family known as The Great Locomotive Chase and this stars Fess Parker as Andrews and shows the locomotives done as they chased. Now there's other information out there such as books and so forth like this book, The General and the Texas that you can buy that gives a lot of pictures and history of the locomotives in the entire history of their run. Even all the way up to the modern restoration time. So there's a lot of great sources out there to find information on it. Now the first thing that always comes up in this era of model railroading is how do we do the research? And this is a question I'm still working on today because this era has fascinated me. I've really enjoyed doing this project and look forward to many more as I move forward modeling some in the Civil War era. But the first question is how do we do the research? Now first off, there's a lot of information out on the web. You can do Google searches or Internet searches all over and try to find as much information as you can. There's a lot of old photographs, history and things like that that you can find depending on what part of the country you're wanting to model. Now one of the main sources I used in this project was a fellow model railroader named John Ott and his website OttGalleries.com. And that's where I found this lithograph showing the general as she existed in 1862 based on his research that he's done. Now this wonderful lithograph and many more you can purchase at OttGalleries.com. But this was able to help give me an illustration of what the locomotive looked like including colors and everything based on the era of time when these locomotives ran. Now there's also a lot of other information. You can go to Library of Congress and a lot of other library works to try to find and chase down photographs of the era. Now other information, there's a lot of other books out there. This particular book, History of the American Locomotive and its Development in 1830 to 1880. Now there's a lot of great information in here including many photographs, drawings and everything that you would need to be able to go through and search and find the locomotive that you want to do. So there's definitely a lot of information out there but one of the other benefits of this particular era in railroading is information is hard to find. And so therefore if you go through and do some research you'll be able to find enough information about the locomotives and the freight cars and passenger coaches of the time that you'll be able to make a believable and realistic representation of what the railroading looked at that time. This also does give you a little flexibility to add a little personal flavor to it or maybe do some colors that maybe wouldn't necessarily be on the real locomotives but remember it's always your railroad. And one of the other things about this era is the locomotives a lot of times were painted based on the manufacturer who built the locomotive. For example, a Rogers Ketchum and Groffsner locomotive would be different than say a Bethlehem locomotive works or any of these other ones that are out there. So therefore you can go through and do a lot of research, find out what you like and then have a little fun with it. So next up let's take a closer look and see some of the details that I've put on the locomotive and then we'll go upstairs to the workbench and we'll show you how I did that. Now from this angle you have a really close view of the side of the locomotive and we're gonna show you some of the details that I've added here. Now first off we're gonna talk about the exhaust stack. Now in this build we used a lot of precision scale parts and precision scale is operating and currently selling parts you can go to their website and order directly from them or you can order from your local hobby shop. But this exhaust stack is a brand new changeover. You can kind of see how the base on this Texas is. This is just a 3D printed add-on shapeways part that we were able to convert quickly just to give it a different look. Now in this case you can see there's a whole lot more detail around the base of the exhaust stack. So these are just some of the small details that we were able to add. Now some of the other things we've added we changed up the domes quite a bit because we wanted to make sure we could represent the Rogers locomotive. And one of the unique features of the Rogers locomotives that the hexagonal base on these domes all the way around the locomotive. Now one of the other things you'll notice is this locomotive has three domes whereas you can see the Texas over here only has the two. And so again this is where your research is gonna pay off because in this case the general at the time actually had two steam domes and a sand dome that stayed in the middle. We'll talk about how we did that when we go upstairs. Now some of the other things you can see the water pump right here and this water pump is driven directly off the crosshead. So as the cylinders move the piston back and forth it also pumps water through here and up into the check valve. Now we've also got a lot of these rods so you can see this is the whistle rod that goes to the whistle that's on the front steam dome. You can see this rod here and this is the one that regulates the sand being pressed down through the pipe down into the sand. This is actually a water pressure line and this allows the engineer to open up a valve and see that water's actually going through the pipe. Now some of the other things we added to this you can see these levers right here. Now these are actually pressure valves that are spring loaded inside the cab that are adjusted by the engineer. So if the boiler pressure gets too high these will actually vent to keep the boiler from getting too high a pressure and exploding. Now we added a brass bell in here we actually have a pull cord on the other side. You can see we moved the hand rails down from along the top of the boiler here down to the side because we also have this ankle rail which is the walkway. So you'll notice here there's no walkway like there is on this locomotive but the ankle rail walks along the locomotive. Now this obviously was moved in later years because as the engineer and crewman were walking along here if the engine was moving this side rods could very easily slice their toes off. So this was moved up for safety later production locomotives. Now moving back here to the back you can see again we took the top of the tender deck off we replaced it with wood. So one of the last things we did on this angle here is we added this slot iron pilot which is more prototypical for the Western and Atlantic practices. And so this was a modified again precision scale and we have the precision scale spoked wheels here on the front. You can see down here I've actually even added the cylinder cocks just using simple bent wire. And one of the other little small details was I was actually drilled a hole through here on the top of the headlight because in this era this light was an oil light. And so in order to allow that heat and smoke to escape there was actually a vent hole up here. So that's what that is. And again we're going for realism. So let's take a look at the cabin terrier. Now from this angle you can see the full cabin terrier. I am shining a flashlight in here to try to highlight because there's a lot of dark black parts inside here. So I want to make sure you can see what's in here. Now this Bachman locomotive with a locomotive allows me the ability to detail the cabin terrier. So you can see the firebox door. We also have a full throttle. We have a Johnson bar which is actually located over here. So from this angle it's not visible. And we have the tri-cox. And the tri-cox are the way that the fireman could monitor the level of water inside the boiler to make sure it didn't boil over. So we're back to this view here. And we're going to take a look. You can see the handrail along the cab here. So again when the fireman or engineer walking along the ankle rails here they have something to grab until they get to this one over here. Now you can see this handhold back here on the back of the cab. There's also a handrail here and then footboard here. So the engineer and fireman can get up into the cab. Now in this view here you can see that we've actually replaced the knuckle couplers with Lincoln pin couplers. So these are what was prevalent in the era of 1862 were Lincoln pin. Now the casting on the locomotive side is by precision scale. I just have a railroad spike shoved in to simulate the pin. Now on the other side here on this passenger coach I actually have a Lincoln pin coupler set that is from Prescott Hobbies out in Arizona and the Lincoln pin coupler set that they sell drops right into the KD coupler number five box and comes with link. And as you can see there the golden colored pins. So this is a really cool easy way to upgrade your knuckle couplers to prototypical Lincoln pins in an affordable easy way. Okay guys now we're up here at the work bench. So now our question is how do we build this thing and how do we take the model apart and so forth. So first thing what we're gonna do is we're gonna plan we're gonna kind of get an idea of what we want to do and we talked about looking at the history and finding out what the real original locomotive looked like and you would do this with any model. But next up next we need to look at our Bachman 440s and we need to disassemble. And this is where you can go to Bachman's website at BachmanTrains.com and you can get a exploded view diagram like the one you see here. And this will help familiarize yourself with the parts how they come apart, how they go together and so forth. So once you're familiar with it then you wanna take it apart. Now on the Bachman models there's actually two screws under the cab one on each side that you'll undo and the boiler and the cab and everything will just lift off just like a sandwich. And there's a little lip at the very front of this right here that holds this in place and holds the front of the boiler in place. There we go. So now you can see how easy that is and this whole top half just lifts off just like that. And then like I said the front of this just pulls away. And on the inside here, assembled model you're gonna see two leads from the LED and you're gonna see the headlight casting like this. And then there's gonna be a two pin plug that just connects right to that LED. So you'll unplug that and then you'll free the body and the chassis. Now with the chassis here in this case I've disassembled it already taking out the drivers and so forth but a lot of this just comes apart really easy screws and fairly logical. And this six pin connector will come into play a little later but you can see it there inside the model. And that's the locomotive to tender connector and this is where all the power is transferred back and forth. So now once you have your assembly now you look at the model and you decide what all you need and how to do it. Now in this case I've already removed the domes and the exhaust stack and the exhaust stack is right here. And as you see it just fits in there just like that. There's any number of parts on shapeways you can see a couple of different exhaust stacks here that are designed to fit right inside on the Bachman model. So they literally just press fit in. Now the domes, here's the removed dome off of here and these are just glued in place. You can pull this off and you can modify the dome strip it, paint it, do it by hand separately and we'll talk about that here in a minute. Or you can completely remove this and replace it with some of the other domes. As I mentioned the cow scale domes on this guy you can see the Rogers hexagonal domes on here. So what you can do is you can take this completely apart and just sand the spoiler down. These are the boiler straps here and you can sand those down. We can re-add them in. It's really easy to do and repaint them and we'll talk about that here in a minute. These sanding lines, they literally just pull out. You can just slowly work it out. The pair of tweezers or the dull end of an X-Acto knife and then once you get it out you can then pull it up through the hole in the walkway. Now you have this raw. Boiler to work on. Now the cab literally just snaps right off in place. So you can pull this off. Now on the factory install there's actually some weights here that are held in place with two screws right here and this is what I removed in order to open up for a cab interior. So this frees up a lot of space. We'll talk about weight here in just a little bit but you will add this back and you'll be adding the weight back a lot like this precision scale dome. This will obviously not fit there so you will have to sand this down a little bit but this would normally fit but this is solid brass. This is gonna add some weight and have to the locomotive. Whoops, that's okay that bell's gonna get replaced. Now some of the other details parts you can see is this line right here that runs along the walkway and goes to the check valve. Well this would be typically for an injector so this will get sanded off. This is a later addition to these locomotives because as we talked about they have a water pump on the crosshead. So this would get sanded off, you can sand this down and again the boiler straps so you can replace those easily. So now we've got this. Now we start looking at our parts. Now in this case we want to see what parts do we need and this is where you can go through and decide and look through the catalogs and decide which domes you want, which bell you want. In this case you can see this water pump and injector comes as an assembly through shapeways. There's different pilot stat you can get, different versions. There's even different fenders you can get and these are some of the ones that I bought at Shapeways but and then you can kind of plan ahead again talking about exhaust stacks, cab interior stuff and so forth. So make yourself a parts list. I'm gonna pause for a moment and show you my parts list that I used for the general. Okay, so next up once we've got all this and we've got our parts collected or at least on the way to us, now we can kind of start planning some of the other things and some of the stuff that you have to look at is the paint and there's a whole lot of different paints out there, different tones, different colors and so forth. So you wanna do your history and research to try to find out. In this case I used a Vallejo, just a regular green the wheels are red, these are Southern Pacific Scarlet red as is the pilot up here on the front and you can kind of see this one here. This is a Shapeways pilot that I ended up not using and scrapping or at least for this particular build. In my opinion you can kind of see how the open slats of this pilot look a lot different than these filled in Shapeways 3D. Now I like the contour of this better but the openness of this so I ended up sacrificing this pilot for this one here. So don't be afraid to make a change on the way. Now going back to colors, this is a Flocal Graphite that's here, the blue is a Vallejo Gunmetal blue and then the brass is Model Master's Brass Paint, simple and then the silver is True Color paint, their aluminum color. So and then the white is just a Vallejo white. So once you collect your colors and test them get yourself a small piece of a postcard or business card that you can paint on the back and just test your colors make sure they're gonna look the color you want. Then once you have this you'll also wanna be working on your decal set. This is where you can get a ready-made set or you can get custom-made set. Again it depends on what you're modeling knowing that for example the Jupiter and the 119 there's plenty of resources out there to find the colors that you can do. Now here's where we start getting into preparation. Preparation, you're gonna take the boiler you're gonna take it down and like I was talking about sanding and filing getting everything ready. If you're replacing the domes with these cow scale ones all this will go flat. So get yourself a Dremel tool and kind of knock some of the edge of this off with a file and sand it down and get the big part of this down because again you don't wanna get into the boiler casting. And one thing I will tell you is when you're doing your sand work when you're getting down to the final and you want a nice smooth surface on the plastic make sure you get a really fine grit you can go to the auto parts store and get a 1000 or 1500 grit sandpaper and wet sand it. Put the sandpaper in water and sand it on your model and you're gonna get a nice smooth surface that's perfect for painting. Next up this is where you would make any modifications you're gonna make to the model. Now this particular locomotive here I did a couple of different modifications you can see. Number one is I shortened the wheel base on this pilot truck. So these wheels are a lot closer together. Oops. These wheels are a lot closer together than you can see from the factory one above but then one thing you'll notice also is that in this case on this locomotive they kind of straddle that cylinder so they're planned exactly right. So on this particular case and again look at your prototype pictures but what I was able to do is I was able to take this cylinder casting cut it up and then re glue it together so that these were elevated and at an angle and there's plenty of prototype examples of that also. So this is a model that we'll be working on later but we haven't stripped any of the paint off of it yet so this is going to be worked on but this was just some experimentation so make your modifications to the model that you're gonna wanna do. Now again plan your painting now when you're starting to do the assembly work you can kind of see here that this dome on the general here has the gunmetal blue in the middle of the dome but then there's brass on the top and the bottom so you don't wanna glue this to the boiler before you're done painting. So this is where you wanna take your painting practices and kind of look and see what you wanna do. So plan your painting so decide what parts are going to be in there and be ready to paint ahead of time. Now one thing I did forget to mention is that with replacing the tender deck and this is where under making the modification but when it comes to the tender one of the things is that we have this Bachman wood deck on here and it's kind of generic looking. I mean if you do some touch up paint on it it might be passable but I really liked the look of the real wood and so what I did was I cut this out along the edges here and on the underside you can see this is all hollow and open where it's all cast in. So when we cut this out we can actually then take a measurement of the inside and build ourselves a template and then we can cut out our 030 styrene sheet to fit right over there so we have our replacement deck. So if you wanted to model a not quite as loaded wood load drop it down a little bit and kind of show some different wood loads you can have a different shapes so it gives a little bit more of a realistic look. Now there's other tender decks here for example you can see this one's a co-load and this is one I've already stripped down but if you notice this co-load's cast in but it goes pretty close to where this water fill hatch is so this is really going to be tough to cut out and then replace so this may be one that may end up just getting painted but on the inside again you can see this is all cast and open. Now one of the other things you can see in this raw tender here what I do is I normally take this speaker out because this is just a small half inch round speaker and while it fits there we can actually need to make room for the decoder and the current keeper here and then we're going to put our own mini cube threes into the tender shell here so we're going to leave that open so that the sound has the ability to escape. Okay so now we do our final assembly we get ready for painting and this is where we attach our boiler straps we talk about the tender deck and you get everything ready to go. Now once you're ready to paint take the paint and mask it off get yourself multiple levels or multiple thicknesses of masking tape so that that way you can make sure to mask the spaces that you need properly without getting any paint overflow. Now one thing I will point out is for example these boiler straps hand painted the brass on it and then I put the masking tape over that. Now to seal the masking tape you can spray a layer of clear over the whole thing and that will seal the tape. So then that way when you shoot the blue it doesn't bleed under the tape and into and on the straps. So once the clear is dried you can then shoot the blue and then peel up the masking tape for the boiler straps and you have a perfect line every time. So take your time look at the how you're going to do everything paint it, get it ready and this is where you'll start ready for assembly and this is where assembly is going to come into play you're going to get your parts make sure they're all painted these domes are all hand painted before they were assembled the headlight assembly was all hand painted so this brass ring around the headlight was separately painted and then the body of this was painted the maroon color and then a black on top of the lantern so you want to take your time again you can mask this if you want in some cases I chose to freehand it for example I had a clear line so I had a very wide assortment of brushes to make sure I got that nice fine line along there so now we're ready to go we're getting close to final assembly and now it's time to add the decoder so in this case what I did on this particular model now if you look underneath here this particular locomotive has a rubber traction tire here on this wheel so while this has a wiper attached to the back of it it's not really going to pick up a whole lot of power so I wouldn't reliably rely on this to pick up power so that means you have one wheel here and then these wipers here on the tender are only picking up on one side and the other so what I did was I actually drilled a hole once this truck was disassembled I actually drilled a hole into this because you can see this is open here between the bolster drilled a hole, ran a wire in there and then drilled a hole across the bolster this way so what I was able to do was to put a small piece of phosphor bronze wire that rides the top of the wheel right here so then I took my wire and soldered it to that brass wire or the phosphor bronze wire and then ran that up into the tender trucks so now I have eight wheel tender pickup I have two wheels on my locomotive that are guaranteed to pick up and then if this one picks up even better so now once I've done that I'm ready to install the decoder and this is where your planning is going to come into play because in this tender shell even with the lowered deck you can fit a TSU-1100 Sonami II and a current keeper but you do have to remove this first weight there's two layers of weights here you have to remove this first weight layer so there's three screws take off the top weight and then reassemble then a current keeper will fit right next to a TSU-1100 and then the two mini-cube speaker threes will actually fit up here in this front section so you wire those in series wire everything to the decoder and again this is where your wiring diagram is going to come into play because on the locomotive we have a headlight and we have a firebox light and I only have six wires so take your time get yourself a wiring diagram you may decide that a firebox light might be a little too much so you go with just the headlight which is fine then there's two wires for the track two wires for the motor and then your two wires for your headlight your golden so once you've got the decoder in and you've got the current keeper in now it's time for final assembly take it for a test run make sure everything works and then now it's time to add on the parts so a lot of these parts like these handrails were all done during the assembly final assembly including these rods for the whistle the sander valve this water pump one here the handrails are actually lowered a little bit so all this is done differently and then this ankle rail was built out of brass stock this is just a angle piece of brass that was modified and then these pieces are just brass strip that were soldered to it to help hold it in place and then on the front there's just a block of styrene that runs across the locomotive that's from the front to the rear and then this is just setting on there so again you want to take your time once everything's final assembled you want to take it for a test run make sure everything looks good and then put it together okay one of the last things I did forget to mention is when it comes to locomotives we talk about tractive effort and tractive effort is a factor of the weight of the locomotive and so one of the things I was able to do with this locomotive and I forgot to mention it earlier is adding weight and weight is one of the things that we really need now what I used in this model I used a lot of this this is the moldable lead that you can get from A-line models out in California and you can actually take off little bits and pieces of this and mold it to fit inside the model so what I was able to do was on the model here you can see the cab and I was able to put some weight here in front of the where the seats would be so this this post goes away and I put the seats on top of this screw boss here because this is what actually holds the body shell together so this screw boss has to be there so I put the seats on top of that as you saw in the earlier picture so I was able to put some weight here and here in front underneath at this circuit board there's actually some space over here that you can put a little bit of weight here and there there's a little bit of space in this box that covers the gearbox here where the wheels would go that you can put a little tiny bit of weight so all these little bits of weight add up but what I found was that with all these brass parts you have the brass domes here you have the brass stack the brass pilot and so forth what happened was the locomotive was a little forward heavy and so it was really easy to set it down and the locomotive would plot forward and land on the pilot and so what I was able to do to balance it out was not only add weight in a little bit of those areas here but inside the cab you have this roof area and so what I was able to do was kind of take that moldable lead fill in some space here above the cab above where the fireman and engineer said and then was able to just paint over that and you'll never see the weight inside of here so with all of my modifications and changes up of the model I was able to add almost an entire ounce to the locomotive so you couple that with the rubber traction tire and this thing is going to be a great puller so just wanted to mention that and hopefully this helps you guys so guys let's go back down to the layout we're going to test run it and show you some of the features of the decoder and the locomotive when it's running and then we're going to take her first spin and show you what she sounds like now of course now that we have our tsunami 2 installed we're going to talk briefly about a couple of the features of the tsunami 2 and number one is the headlight now as I mentioned in 1862 we did not have electric lights and so this was an oil light that would burn in front of a reflector so it wasn't a super bright light but it was enough to help the crew see where they were going when they operated at night now the realistic time frame they didn't operate much at night so but if the train was running late they would be able to illuminate a light now rather than giving a straight solid bright light an oil light kind of has a little bit of a flicker to it but not as aggressive as a firebox flicker so what I did was I selected the ash pan light and the ash pan light has a little bit of a flicker to it but not a not a aggressive flicker like you would see in the firebox so when I turn on the headlight you can see that there's a little bit of pulsating there but not a whole lot so it gives the great illusion of a oil light now one of the features of the tsunami 2 is the firebox flicker now this is what's called a smart firebox flicker and the smart firebox flicker differs because this allows the light to brighten up when the fireman is shoveling coal or in this case moving wood into the firebox that way it simulates the added light that would be if the firebox door was open so let's take a quick listen and watch how that firebox light works now you can see how that light got brighter to simulate the firebox door open along with fireman fred throwing wood into the wood fire now one of the other things is what sounds did you choose how did you make this locomotive profile so to start with for the whistle I chose the DNR GW 8 inch single chime whistle and that's whistle number 87 in the tsunami 2 so let's take a listen so that has a nice melodic tone to it now next up of course is what bell did I choose now of course in this era there were no or air run bells so we selected a hand rung and this is a light brass and this is bell choice number five now next up of course is the chuff cadence now the chuff again tsunami 2 has 10 different exhaust chuffs to choose from in this particular case I selected one of the light chuffs which is actually chuff number zero so cv 123 would be set to zero now some of the other things I was able to do was in the coupler selection in cv 126 we can actually select a link and pin so again we can have that prototypical sound now some of the other things I did now in 1862 there were no air brakes so I took the air compressor sound and set the volume to zero now then some of the other things was the air brakes because there's no air brakes as I mentioned there's no air compressor so I set the air brake set and release as well as the emergency brake volumes to zero to make sure that they don't make any sounds there's no dynamo on it and so I took the dynamo sounds and again set them to zero the volume to zero now as I mentioned there is a water pump on this locomotive as we talked about right here so there's no injector so I took the injector volume and set it to zero and then some of the other sounds like the pneumatic grease gun oil can wrenches things like that cab chatter all of that were set to zero so now of course comes in the big question how does it sound when it runs well let's take her for a spin and so how do we do this first thing well we have our light on so we're good to go so let's go ahead and blow our whistle signal which in 1862 was still too long blasts of the whistle when moving in the forward direction now we're going to turn on our bell start ringing the bell now we're ready to go so we're going to go ahead and start moving at speed step one and we're going to turn on our cylinder cocks start slowly accelerating we can stop ringing our bell close the cylinder cocks and now we're on our way so guys I hope this has been helpful for you to show you just how much you can do with these Bachman HO 440s and the soundtrack tsunami 2 so guys I encourage you to try out Civil War era modeling there's a lot of fun and a lot of cool things you can do so guys that was this segment of What's Neat so thanks for watching we'll catch you next time all the products seen on this episode of What's Neat are available from Lombard Hobbies in Lombard Illinois or order online at LombardHobby.com Wothers Trains supporting hobby retailers across the world since 1932 check out their website and 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