 Hey guys, it's Brandon of Happily Dressed and welcome back to the channel. Today I'm showing you guys how to sew up a pleated jacket. The pattern needed for this tutorial can be found in the link down below. This is my second sewing pattern. I am very proud of this, similar to the Ranger jean, so I'm very happy to finally have the Ranger jacket out. In this tutorial, we'll be utilizing a technique called flat belt seams. This is something I'll explain further down in the video, but it'll help us achieve this continuous front yoke to sleeve seam that I love so much about this jacket. I'm very satisfied with how this jacket turned out and I cannot wait to see what you sew up. Also in the description below is a list of the sewing notions I used throughout this video, so if you see something and think what is that or what is he using, you'll probably be able to find it down below. But without further ado, let's start this tutorial. So getting started, you want to go ahead and take together and cut out all your pattern pieces. I've already done that, but to make it easier for yourself, what you can do once you print out your PDF pattern is cut off the right and bottom side of each page so that way you can slide them on top of each other as you tile them together, tape them and then cut them out. Another thing to do once your pattern pieces are cut out is to go ahead and notch all of your notch placement on each individual pattern piece. This will help you connect them together as you're moving through the instructions. It's also important not to notch too deep because your seam allowance will be used in creating your flat belt seams, so you don't want to cut too deep into your fabric. Either use chalk or a small little nick in the fabric so that way you know where your notches are. So now we can cut out our pattern pieces with our fabric. I'm actually using some thrifted drapes that I found that are 100% cotton but a heavier weight. Very similar to denim, but I thought it'd be fun to make a red ranger jacket like the instructions. So I'm going to use these curtains and each size has a cutting layout that you can follow in the instructions that makes sure that all your pattern pieces fit with the yarn that you buy. Also don't forget to cut out your pattern pieces that need interfacing. This is the one I use from Joanne. It's the designer light interfacing, great for light and midway fabrics. So the pieces that do need interfacing are your cuff, your front facing, your back facing, your sleeve placket, your waistband and your collar. And then keep in mind that the waistband, collar and back facing piece should be cut out on the fold. So let's start with the back. What we're going to do is take back A and back B and go ahead and get them situated to be sewn together. So because we're creating flat felt seams, what we're going to do is put wrong sides together instead of right sides together. So right now, this is the right side of my fabric. I know because of the texture and when I turn it around, the texture on the back is a lot different. So what I'm going to do now is wrong sides facing, match my back A and back B pieces. Wrong side, wrong side, have them face each other and then use your notches as well to make sure everything lines up evenly. So this is the right side of the fabric because the wrong sides are facing one another. I'm going to do the same thing. If I know this is the right side, this is the wrong side, wrong side facing wrong side, making sure that my notches line up with one another and then pinning that in place. So now I'm going to take this to my sewing machine and sew both sides down at 5 eighths of an inch seam allowance. So once your piece is sewn on both sides, it should look something like this. I'm using a white contrasting top stitching thread so that way you guys can see it better. But now what we're going to do is flip our project right sides up and press our seam allowance open. So using my iron to press my seam allowance open, I have a few other tools that I'll use as well for crisp seams. This is a clapper which is supposed to be helpful when pressing. So all of our flat felt seams are going to go towards the center. So now out of my seam allowance pairs, I'm going to take the inner one from each pair and cut it down to a quarter of an inch. So I'm taking my inner seam allowance here that's towards the center and I'm cutting it down. I'm not going to have to cut through anything else. That's the only layer of fabric I'm cutting through. That remaining seam allowance, we're going to fold it in half. So fold it on top of itself, give it a press and once that's pressed out, we'll take the whole thing and fold it over that seam allowance we just cut down. And when you do this, it should also reveal your stitching line from sewing the two pieces together. So now what we'll do is top stitch this down and in place and that's your flat felt seam. I'm going to do the same on this side. On my inner seam allowance, I'm going to cut it down to a quarter of an inch. Now I'm going to fold my remaining seam allowance in half, on top of itself, there we go. And now the last thing I'm going to do is take that same seam allowance and fold it over the one we just cut down. So once you have both of your flat felt seams prepped now, you can pin them down, take them to your sewing machine and top stitch them. Making sure I backstitch at the start and end of my piece. And now you've just sewn your first two flat felt seams. So now we're going to do the same with the back yoke. You want to grab your back yoke piece. Right now we have it on the right side. What we want to do is turn our piece to the wrong side, which we'll get easier to see once we start stitching. My bobbin thread is actually the same color as my fabric, so you won't be able to see it. But what we'll do now is match wrong side to wrong side. This is my wrong side. I'm also going to use my notches that I have at the bottom to make sure I'm lining those up with the seam I just created. So right now the right side of this should be looking at you. So once it's pinned down, I'm going to go ahead and sew it at five eighths of an inch seam allowance. So once we've sewn that, what we want to do just like last time is press that seam open after we've turned our piece right side up. And a clapper is not necessary. It's just new to me. So I definitely want to use it to see how it helps keep my seams sharp. And then now, like I said, all flat felt seams are facing towards the center of the jacket. So now what I'll do is cut down this seam allowance as close as to me to a quarter of an inch. This also helps reduce bulk by cutting into some of those flat felt seams we just created. You know, the drill, we're going to fold our remaining seam allowance in half or on top of itself. Give that a press, trying to be as accurate with our fold as possible. And then we're going to fold it one more time over the seam allowance we just cut down. And this will expose our stitch line we just sewed. Any phrase you get, you can just go ahead and tuck those right under or cut them down. But now you can pin this down, take it to your sewing machine and top stitch that seam allowance down. And once you do that, that is your back piece all complete. You can cut your threads and put it to the side because we're going to move on to the front. So now you want to grab your two front B pieces. So now both my pieces are right sides up. And we're going to work on our pleats. You'll need a ruler and something to mark your pleats with. I think this is the best way to do the pleats because it'll make sure that your pleat depth is what it's supposed to be. And basically draw out my pleat lines from the notches I made. So from notch to notch, using my ruler to make sure I do this straight, I'm just going to use something that I know will wash out once I wash this to mark my pleat lines. And now we'll actually just work on them one at a time. But now I'm going to take this over to my iron to help press and pin my pleats in place. And so our pleats will face the front of the jacket. So we'll take our first line and move them towards the second pleat line. So this will take some getting used to, but the reason I like to use chalk is because I know I can get a straight line by matching these lines right on top of each other. No need to go all the way down. Just far enough to get your line in place. Actually I'm going to turn this this way so you guys can see it better. And that is the first pleat sewn down. And then now I will pin it down so it stays in place while I do the other ones. And now just continue. Now I'll take this line to its counterpart line. No need to start too far up. Just enough to get a good start going. And basically you do this until your chalk lines are all gone because you've completed your three pleats. So once you have all of your pleats pressed and pinned, what we're going to do is go over to our sewing machine and do one row of stay stitching within our seam allowance. So no more than five eighths of an inch out. I like to do it at a quarter of an inch, but do a row of stay stitching at the top and at the bottom of these pleats so they can stay in place. So for those who don't know, a stay stitch is just sewing at your longest stitch length. For me and my machine, that's five. For a lot of machines, I think that's four. Basically at a quarter of an inch, you just want to sew. No need to backstitch or anything, but just sew one continuous line over these pleats to keep them in place. As you're doing this as well, you want to make sure that you don't push your pleats out of place without you just let it glide on the machine without altering your pleats in any way. So go ahead and pleat and stay stitch your other front, and then we'll talk about what to do with these pleats. So now that you have both of your front pieces complete, it's up to you how you choose to tack your pleats down. You can sew them down on all three pleats. I think what I'm going to do is do three little squares to tack them down in place. You could also not tack them down at all and just leave them open, but I will say that would just cause for more maintenance after you finish your jacket to make sure you're pressing your pleats regularly so they don't like misshape or disform. And to mark the placement of my squares, I just like to take my ruler with my fronts lined up and just mark where I want to start my squares, making sure everything is straight. That's why I love an acrylic ruler because you can just see through and match all your horizontal and vertical lines. And I am basically just eyeballing this because I think I'm going to go use this as my top of my square, but they're actually both roughly, oh nice, four and a half inches apart. Nice, that's actually, that's pretty even on both sides, but that's basically how I get my squares even is that I'll just put them next to each other using an acrylic ruler to make sure I start my boxes at the same place. So now I'll use these markings to sew my boxes to hold down my pleats. Now I'm going to start in the center of my middle pleat. I'm trying to start in the center of my middle pleat on every one so that way my stitch length and the amount of stitches I have can be as equal as possible. And I'm not going to back stitch at the top, I'm just going to go all the way around and then go over that same stitch line. So once you finish sewing your squares and tacking your pleats down, what you can do is now take your front A pieces and then match them to the front B piece. So just like we did with the back, we want to turn our piece to the wrong side, grab our corresponding piece and make sure it's also on the wrong side. So these are both on the wrong side, and then now you want to match those two wrong sides together and pin front A to front B because we're about to do another flat-felled seam. But don't worry, I'll do all of it on camera. So go ahead and sew this down at 5 eighths of an inch. And once I've sewn that down, I'm going to turn my piece right side up and we'll know that because we'll see the squares and I'm going to press that seam allowance open and then we're going to cut down the seam allowance closest to us. It's also the seam allowance with the pleats. So this will help reduce bulk. So I'm cutting that down to a quarter of an inch and now we'll fold our remaining seam allowance on top of itself and then one more time over the seam allowance we just cut down. And now I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and topstitch this flat-felled seam down. Once you're done, your front should look similar to this. And we're going to go ahead and do this same thing with our other front piece. So once your two fronts are completed, now we're going to attach it to the back and our shoulder seams and our side seams are both going to be flat-felled seams. So we're going to start with our shoulder seam. So because it's going to be a flat-felled seam, we'll make sure the wrong side is up and then also match our wrong sides of our front with the wrong side of the back. So as you can see, the right side of my jacket is facing up and the wrong side is facing the wrong side of the back. And I'm actually going to sew all four of these at the same time. And with the side seams, you can use your notch to make sure that they're lined up and then pin it in place. I'm going to take my other front, pin in place, using my notches here on the side. And now I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and sew each seam at 5 eighths of an inch seam allowance. So now just like all my other seams, I'm going to press them open and create my flat-felled seams. So I'm actually going to use my Taylor's Ham. Actually, this might be called a sleeve roll. I just found it out by on Instagram. But I'm going to use it to help me press these seams open. And then once all my seams are pressed out, my seam allowances that are pointing towards the inside of the jacket are the ones I'm going to cut. So with my side seams, out of the two seam allowances, the one that's facing the front is the one I'm going to cut down to a quarter of an inch. And then I'm going to flat-fell seam the other one. And then with my shoulder seams, the seam allowances that are pointing towards the jacket, I'm going to cut down to a quarter of an inch and then fold those down as well to flat-fell seam them. So I'm going to do that now and you can go ahead and do that on your piece as well. Hi, mother, how are you? So now this is what your completed front and back should look like once they're joined together. All your flat-felled seams in place. And now we're cooking with grease. I think what's next is that we'll do the collar and then the front and back facings. All right, so now moving on to our collar, what we want to do is grab both of our collar pieces. We'll want to interface one and then we'll actually deal with the other one after. Make sure that the wrong side is facing up towards me. Take my interfacing, which is cut out in the same shape. Make sure the glue side of the interfacing, so this would be a soft side and then there's a glue side, at least for iron-on. Make sure the glue side is facing the wrong side of the fabric like this and I'm going to press that into place. You want to make sure not to wiggle your iron around or push it through because you can push the glue. We just want to lift, press, use some steam if your fabric allows for it and just do this all the way down until you interface your collar. So now once your collar's interfaced, what we'll do is actually turn it up to the right side, match our other collar right side down so that way we have our right sides facing one another and now that your collar pieces are together, right sides facing, what you want to do is pin them in place and then sew around the border, leaving the bottom open at 5 eighths of an inch seam allowance. So now we'll cut down your seam allowance to a quarter of an inch and then turn your collar right side out. I'm going to use the curved edge of my point turner to help me with the curved part of the collar to just make sure it's all flush and out and to make sure the top part of my collar lays flush, I'm going to separate the seam allowance that just trimmed down and give it a press. And this will just make sure that there's no weird folding over that happens at the top of the collar when I'm top stitching. Now I'm going to sew three rows of top stitching. You can sew as many as you want to, but I'm going to choose three. Now that you have your collar stitched together, what we can do is attach it to our jacket. So what you want to do is make sure that the right side of your jacket is facing up and now what we're going to do is pin our collar to our neck hole. So you'll want to fold your collar in half to find the middle. I like to make a small little notch. Do the same thing with my back. Putting my two back shoulder seams together to find and locate my center back, putting in a little notch. But now using this little notch for our center back and our center collar notch, making sure both pieces are right side up, I'm going to pin and attach my collar. You can also use clips here if you want to use clips, but I'm just going to walk my collar around the neck opening and pin it in place so we can stay stitch it in place. So now I'm going to take this and stay stitch this within the seam allowance, so like probably at a quarter of an inch. And we know stay stitch is sewing at our longest stitch length, for me that's five, for you it might be four, but stitch at your longest stitch length at a quarter of an inch to just lock this in place. So once you've done that and stay stitched your piece, this is what it should look like, just a straight line to hold your collar in place. So that way when we attach the facing, we know our collar is not going to shift. So now we can put this aside. You'll want to grab your front and back facing pieces and go ahead and get them interfaced. So just like we did with our collar piece, we want to make sure that the wrong side of our pieces are facing up towards us and that the glue side of our interfacing is facing towards that. So you want to make sure that the rough side is touching the wrong side, so you're not accidentally gluing your iron. Like I said before, you just press and hold, no need to push your slide, lift up, press and hold, add some steam if you'd like, press and hold. Now we'll do our front facings. So now once your pieces are interfaced, what you want to do is match them right sides facing. So I'd like to go ahead and put my back facing up and then with the right sides touching one another, we're going to match and pin these in place so we can sew them down at five eighths of an inch seam allowance. So now I'm going to take this over to the sewing machine, sew it down at our seam allowance and then take it over to the iron to press those seam allowances open. So I'm going to use my sleeve roll to help me press these out. And then now I'm going to take this to my serger. I can serge these together low, serge them individually on both sides. I think actually what I'm going to do is serge these individually. And once I serge these seam allowances individually, I'm going to serge the whole outside perimeter of this facing so I could turn it in on itself at five eighths of an inch seam allowance. I'll show you how to do that. So you can see my outside perimeter is serged. So are my seam allowances. If you don't have a serger, you can always use bias tape. So now to prep this, what we'll do is take it to the iron and fold over, press that down. So I'll use my heat ruler to help me with this. Or you can even use a seam gauge and draw out your seam allowance all the way around. This just ensures my seam allowance is accurate. I feel like out of this whole project, adding the facing is the most time consuming part anyway. So it would be best to just have a day where you know you're just messing with the facing so that way you don't feel rushed because you know you have the whole day to get this part done. So once you've pressed your seam allowance in towards the wrong side of your front and back facing together, what we wanna do is take it to the sewing machine and right side up, we're going to edge stitch, which is just like top stitching, but closer to the edge. We're going to edge stitch that seam allowance in place so it doesn't move. So now that our facing is prepped and ready, we can attach it now to our front. So basically what we wanna do is make sure that our jacket is facing right side up. So what you wanna do with your facing is match your shoulder seams together, pin them in place. Also match your corners. Your notch on your front facing should line up with your flat felt seam on the front and pin your facing in place. You can also use clips if your fabric choice is really thick. I actually think I'm going to use clips because it'll make it easier for me. And now that my front facing is clipped to my front, I'm gonna go over to the sewing machine and sew this down all the way around at five eighths of an inch seam allowance. Around this opening curve is actually the most important place to make sure that all of your fabric is lying as flat as possible to make sure you don't get any puckers in your neckline. So that just means taking your time, going as slow as you need to, and we'll help these seams relax by also cutting into our curves once we're done. So just going slow, taking my time, make sure I don't cause any accidental puckering. So once it's all sewn, it's easier to cut into my corners before I trim down my seam allowance. So right, like where the shoulder seam is, could it allow for more mobility in the curve? And make sure your scissors are sharp and that you also don't cut through your stitching line. After I cut in these little relief marks, I'll go through now and just trim the seam allowance all the way down to about a quarter of an inch and then we'll flip it right side out and then press it to have it all lay nicely. So now we'll just edge stitch this facing in place. So now it's time to sew the outer edge of the facing down from front. And for this, I just like to take my time. I can kind of like see where the indent is of it. So I use that indent as a guide when I'm sewing it from the top side, but you're more than welcome to pin this down from the front so that when you know exactly where the edge is and sew it down. I'm just kind of trusting my fingers to know where the indent is of the facing as I move past it. I sew it because I'm top stitching so I can't sew it from the other way cause then it'll be red on this side. Obviously this way also takes a lot longer because I'm really just taking my time, going the slows I need to to make sure I'm following that indent all the way around. All right, let's find out if I got it all down. So now it is wrong side out and I'm just checking to see if if I caught all the facing all the way around. And it looks like I did nice which I'm really happy about cause it does not always work out that way. Excuse me, that's the main part of your jacket all completed. You can give it a good press and try it on if you want to. So now we can put this to the side and start working on the sleeve. All right, everyone, it is a new day. I've kind of cleaned up my workstation from yesterday and the day before's mess, but now we're going to focus on the sleeves. So what you want to do is go ahead and grab one pair of your sleeve A and B. So now I'm making sure that my notches are also marked so it'll be easier to attach these sleeves once we get there. We're going to do another flat felt seam to join these two pieces together. So you know the deal, wrong side is facing up currently. Wrong side is going to be facing that wrong side. So wrong side to wrong side. I'm going to use my notch to help pin this in place because we'll be pinning around the curve. So now that this is pinned I'm going to take it over to my sewing machine sew at five eighths of an inch seam allowance. For both sleeves, you want to make sure that you're sewing with sleeve A on the top of the pressure foot. All right, now you know the drill. I'm just going to press the seam open, cut down my seam allowance towards sleeve B. So now that I've finished both my sleeves and my flat felt seams are both facing sleeve B I can put them to the side because we're going to work on our sleeve placket. I'm going to grab my plackets and take them to the iron so we can interface them. So now to attach our sleeve placket to our sleeve what we want to do is turn our sleeve wrong side up find our two notches that'll correlate with the box we just drew. And you want to make sure that you're also this top right corner is facing the long edge and not your flat felt seam. So you want the taller part of your sleeve placket to be facing the outside of sleeve A and go ahead and pin that in place. And now I'm going to go and sew this rectangle. And once that rectangle is sewn we're going to clip into it stopping about three quarters of an inch of the way and then snipping into those corners making sure not to snip past our stitching line. And then once we do this now I'm going to take it to the iron so we can press these seams open to help us flip it right side out. So now with my iron I'm going to press my little seam allowance open and this just ensures I get a nice and crisp flip out when I turn this towards the right side of the sleeve because now what we'll do is flip our sleeve placket right side out like this so we have both right sides up currently we'll press this flat and try to avoid having this overlap we see here. So now what we'll do to start the completion of our sleeve placket is take this side our shorter side open it up and then fold it on itself like this go ahead and press that down in place and then now we'll take this to the sewing machine and stitch down right here on the edge. So once you've stitched this side down we'll move to the other side of the placket open it up in this direction and then fold it back on itself as well. So now we'll go over to the sewing machine and sew a long line and then a square here to close off your sleeve placket and you want to make sure the square lines up with a little divot that's created in your sleeve placket. So once we have both your plackets done on your sleeves this should look something like this and now what we want to do with each sleeve I'll do one at a time is close our sleeve up but right sides facing you want to sew your sleeve clothes at five eighths of an inch seam allowance and then finish to your liking you can search the edge you can use bias tape you can do a zig zag stitch I basically want to close up both of our sleeves so when you finish sewing your sleeves clothes this is what they should look like I went ahead and surged the edge of mine now what we're going to do is turn them right side out so we can attach our cuff at this point as well I like to take this over to my iron and use my sleeve roll to get in there and press that seam allowance towards the back so that way I get this seam to be nice and flat and crisp so I'm gonna go do that now as well after I do that we're going to move on to interfacing our cuffs you should have interfaced one of your sleeve cuffs and then fold it the other one up five eighths of an inch to the wrong side so this is the wrong side this fold up of five eighths of an inch is the right side grab our interfaced cuff and pin it around our cuff opening and you want to pin it to where you have at least half to five eighths of an inch coming off of the edge and go ahead and start to pin that in place and work it around your sleeve opening the excess will differ on each side and that's okay whatever the excess is we'll just use that to close up the cuff when we're done and I will show you how so you see I have excess on this side I also have a little bit of excess on this side as well now I'm gonna go to my sewing machine and sew this down at five eighths of an inch seam allowance so it wasn't recording just now but I went ahead and trimmed down my seam allowance to reduce bulk and make it easier to add a buttonhole later I trimmed it down to about a quarter of an inch and now I'm gonna take it to my iron and press that seam allowance up towards the cuff all the way around I'm gonna use my sleeve roll to help me basically I'm just pressing that seam allowance up towards the top of the cuff this will also start to create a crisp seam for us to top stitch once we're ready to close our cuff so now you'll take your other sleeve cuff that you pressed up and we're going to now match it right side spacing to the cuff we just sewed onto our sleeve we're going to pin this in place all the way around and sew just the top of this closed at five eighths of an inch seam allowance so now that our two cuffs are sewn together just at the top I can go with my sewing machine now and sew them closed following the edge of my sleeve placket you wanna give it just like an eighth of an inch over so using that placket as a guide I'm gonna mark a straight line to sew so I'm gonna sew that line to sew this closed and then on the other side I'm gonna do the same thing so here are my two lines to sew and eventually flip it right side out so now that I've closed off my cuff I can cut away any excess from the seam allowances and once I cut away that excess now I'm able to flip my cuff piece right side out and use my point turner if I need to to get my edges as crisp as possible making sure that my seam allowance on the other side stays folded up as well and once this is all pressed down flat I can go over to my sewing machine and top stitch my cuff in place making sure to catch this back folded edge as I do so once you finish sewing your cuff it should look something like this and now we're gonna grab your jacket you wanna turn your jacket wrong side out so we see the front facing because what I'll do now is take my sleeve piece making sure that it's right side out I'm gonna give you guys a different angle so you can see me pin this in place but now making sure my sleeve is right side out I'm gonna take my sleeve put it into my jacket like this and then match up these two flat felt seams to make your front yoke seam and sleeve flat felt seam look like one continuous seam you wanna make sure that these are matched up as close as possible and don't forget your seam allowance is five eighths so you could clip it right here on the edge but five eighths is a little bit more in so I would suggest pinning it or clipping it closer towards where you'll be sewing it to ensure that that line is as continuous as possible I'm gonna pin in place right against that ridge so now I'm gonna use my other notches and seams to pin my sleeve in place and you can use pins or clips for this so when sewing this you wanna just make sure that you take your time so you don't create any accidental pleats or puckers to ensure that this flat felt seam is continuous between the front and the sleeve I'm going to start there because I would hate for anything to shift while I'm sewing and at five eighths of an inseam allowance I'm just going to go all the way around the sleeve cap backstitching at the start and at the finish so after double checking that my front yoke and sleeve seam lined up I went ahead and surged that seam you can finish it with bias tape or with a zigzag stitch now I'm gonna go over to my iron flip this right side out and I think I'm gonna choose to press the seam allowance towards the sleeve head to give it a little bit more structure once you're done pressing that's one sleeve set now we can go ahead and do the cuff and attach the sleeve for the other side so moving on to the waistband pieces we wanna do exactly what we did with the cuff and that's interface one piece and then with the other on the wrong side press up five eighths of an inch seam allowance grab my interface piece fold it in half I'm gonna find the middle make a small little notch no more than a quarter of an inch then I'm gonna grab my almost completed jacket both my sleeves are on I'm gonna do the same thing with my back to find my center back grab my two flat felt seams have them kiss find my center back add in a tiny little notch so I can line up my waistband and now with right sides facing I'm going to line up my waistband piece in the bottom edge of my jacket and pin that in place so now I'm gonna take this on my sewing machine and sew this down at five eighths of an inch seam allowance trim down that seam allowance to reduce bulk press up the seam and then attach the other side of my waistband just like we did the cuff pieces so once you've sewn your waistband to your jacket that is the construction of your jacket all completed and now all we have to do is sew our buttonholes and add our buttons you will use the guide on page 26 to do this I'm sewing the medium so I know that my first buttonhole will start an inch down from the top of the collar and then every other button in between there will be five inches apart so I'm gonna mark that now with the waistband button being centered to the middle of the waistband so we'll have a different distance than the four on the main body and same with the cuffs I'm gonna center my buttonhole to the cuff towards the edge on both sides centering my buttonhole right here on the cuff now that I have my buttonhole placements marked with my little heat-arrangeable pin I'm able to use my domestic sewing machine so my singer to go in and add all my buttonholes using my chosen button which will be these buttons here change of plans I am going a little off script and using these buttons here because I don't have any more of the other ones that I just showed you so these are actually like vintage guest buttons that I got from my local fabric store so here is the jacket all completed I am super excited with how this turned out I was actually saying earlier to my roommate I feel like there's like different stages of projects the first stage is excitement the second phase is motivation the third determination once that wanes down but after that you can just over it probably spent three and a half days making this but that always always dissolves away when I put it on for the first time and it fits just right it looks good my seam lines match up I am very proud of this piece very proud of this jacket if you want to make the ranger jacket for yourself you can pick it up in the link down below your support for me and this channel means so much if you happen to make and post this jacket on social media I'd love to see it so be sure to tag at happily dressed and use the hashtag rangerjacket I have a handful more of sewing patterns in the works and in this noggin of mine so I cannot wait to release them and share more videos with you guys I will catch you all in the next one see you guys later