 Hey, what's up, everybody? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noeva Wezz, and I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is from Brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit, and every week we're here to share three deprinted projects for regional electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is a show we combine 3D protein and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects for you folks. Speaking of you folks, hello, everybody. Welcome to the chat. And the chat. Welcome to the show. We're hanging out in the live broadcast chat in our Discord server. If you'd like to get an invite to the Discord server, the link for that is discord.gg slash Adafruit. And we're hanging out in that sidebar where it's a general. There's some chats there, and we are hanging out in the live broadcast chat room. We're gonna take a moment to welcome everybody to the show, and we do some shout outs. Pedro, run through the shout outs while you're drinking water. Shout outs to everybody hanging out. We are in the YouTube chat. Good morning, Patrick Ranskin on the Discord. Where did my tab go for Discord? I'll do it. Lester, Andy Calloway, me, hello, everybody. And anybody who else is watching we're on all the channels. So hello and welcome to the show. Good morning, good evening, good afternoon. Yeah, good night. Everybody hanging out all across the world. Now we can jump into this week's show. Yeah, all right. Let's do some housekeeping in the morning as we like to do. First up, I wanna tell you about the freebie deals going on. If you spend more money with Adafruit and you add stuff to your cart, you're gonna get automatically added some things. So let me run through the tiers. The first tier is for $99 more, you get a free half-size permaproto for orders that are $149 or more. You'll get the half-size permaproto plus a randomly selected stem of QT board. If you have an Adafruit account, we're gonna make sure you don't get the same one twice. For orders that are $200 more, you'll get the randomly selected QT, QT stem of QT board, the half-size permaproto, and ground shipping from UPS for continental US only. And for orders that are $299 or more, you'll get the free shipping, the randomly selected stem of QT board, the half-size permaproto, and a circuit playground express. Excellent. Limited time only while supplies last, and supplies are going quick, so check it out. You get automatically added to your order. So there you go, those are the freebies. All right, next up we're gonna talk about the newsletters. If you'd like to get notified when Adafruit adds new stuff to the shop on the weekly, you get this once a week. It's called the new new newsletter. You can check that out by going to Adafruit.com slash newsletter. And if you want daily newsletter from different categories, such as IoT monthly, Python on hardware, 3D printing, biohacking, you can go to AdafruitDaily.com and check all the boxes for the categories that you're interested, that peak your interest. We make sure that we don't spam you, and this is a separate site and server, so it's not tied to your Adafruit account. That's AdafruitDaily.com. If you are in the market for an employer or a new gig, check out the jobs board from Adafruit. That's jobs.adafruit.com. You can go to it now, and let me just quickly highlight some of the new ones. Here's a new posting for a microcontroller, C or C plus programmer. This is a remote position in the Virginia area. And here's another one here, electronic electrical engineer and technicians at Power Tools. Stanley Black and Decker. Look at that, full-time position. So check those out. It's free to create a resume or a profile, whether you're a maker or an employer. So check those out at jobs.adafruit.com. All right. We are sponsoring this contest. It's still ongoing. It is the Halloween Hackfest. It's brought to you by Hackaday.io and in collaboration with DigiKey and Adafruit, us. Check it out. I didn't pull up the site, so let me go to it. I forgot about it, I'm sorry. But I'm here to remind you about it. Even though I forgot about it, you still have time to make a project. All right, I'm here. What do I click on? I click on Contests. I click on, oh, there's a bunch of Contests. But the one I'm promoting is the one that we're giving away free stuff for. That's the Adafruit one. The Halloween Hackfest, the deadline for that is Monday, October 11th, this year at 11.59 p.m. Pacific time. Let me see what new submissions. There's a total of 14 submissions. That means, I don't know how many more than last week, but there's more. There's fun ones, there's fun eyes and skeletons and all sorts of fun inspirations. So check those out if you are into the spirit of making this is the maker holiday. So check it out and you can get some free stuff. If you use Adafruit parts, we double the winning prize. So that's really cool. So head on over to whatever that website is. Hack a day IO. I posted a link in all of the texts. I showed you how to get there. You click on the link. It's pretty easy. They have a good UI. You get a direct link there. Hackfest, Halloween. We're here. We have a lot of Halloween projects this week anyway, so. Yeah, that Nixie Tube one looks pretty cool. Yeah. As well as this, what is it? This Mimic one. Sorry, I already went away from it. It's pretty cool. Where's this Nixie Tube you're taking about? Scroll down. Scroll down, there it is. Oh, that's cool. In 12, in 15. Safety Coffin Grave Bell looks pretty cool. Yeah, sweet. So even if you not want to enter, and you just want some Halloween inspiration, check out the submissions. They're really cool. And shout out to everybody for submitting your projects. Yeah, super cool sense. People do post the code. You can grab that for your own Halloween projects in the works. Yeah, go cool. And that is the Halloween Hackfest. All right, what other stuff do I have? I think that's it. Yeah, I'll do the other stuff in there. OK, so let me go back over to Discord. Say hello. Any shout outs that need to be shouted? Hello, hello. I will shout you out. Thank you, everybody, hanging out again to join the chats. It's at discord.gg slash Adafruit. You can see all the banter going on there and all of the links for everything we're talking about. Go ahead and check that out. And before we go, let's go ahead and jump into this week's project. All right, if you head on over to learn.adafruit.com, click on the new button. Launched, I think, on Tuesday, I think. You're yesterday at some time. It is the Starro face mask. Yeah, here it is. Oh, it's on. This is a 3D printed inspired mask from the Suicide Squad movie. This is Starro, one of the characters. This was a request from Mr. P.T., Mr. Lady Aida, himself. Really liked the film. They used a couple of our boards in the film. So we wanted to give back and actually make some of the props that were used there. We did make a Starro for a time lapse Tuesday. It was someone else's print that they made. It was a little big. I had to modify it so that it would fit the hollow wing and wanted to make a completely custom one that has all of the built-in standoffs you can have this be a little bit smaller and custom made so it can use the 85A Ninja Flex. Yeah, let me say that the hollow wing is the hero of these type of projects. The hollow wing comes in two different variants. We have the hollow wing M0 and the hollow wing M4. Both are mighty fine products. If you don't have any coding skills, it just ships like this. You get an animated eye, shout out to Phil B, Paint Your Dragon for coming up with this one. It's such a kind of flagship kind of product really. Yeah, it's rigged right out of the box so you don't have to do any coding if you don't want to. You do have the ability to update the shader for the eye so you can change the color, have it be like a cat eye or like a goat eye. Things are really popular one. So that is all available to do on the M4 model. So we're using here has a nice like a viewing angle with that screen and everything is built in so you don't have to have any like sensors if you want. You don't have to add any of that stuff. And with the model you have access to all of your ports so you're on and off button and on the side here you can reach the USB cable in there to do recharging of your battery. You can like re-route your battery so if you don't want to have a lip of battery on your face you can have it go into your pocket or anywhere else because we are using Ninja Flex. We could use some of the filament to just create a head strap for that or you can just add this to a model and you can have some memory in terms of molding the edges here so you can have it look a little bit more curved if you don't want it to have that flat look. So a bunch of stuff you can do in terms of the modeling for this one of the things that we wanted to get across is that we have a bunch of the Ninja Flex spools in stock in the store. You can pick those up. We'll go over that a little bit. And the other thing is just bring into attention that you can airbrush Ninja Flex. So a lot of the things that we started using this before way back in the day was for doing wearables and that still holds true. Definitely really good for this type of project. Not just a fusing at Neopixels but for any of the flexibility you might want to have a costume on your person. So all snap together stuff in terms of the lens here and we have all of our built in standoffs for the Halloween. And the following comes with four M3 screw holes. So it makes it really easy to attach to things. You can sew it if you have fabric if you're not 3D printing. It's a really awesome thing. Every Halloween it's great to come up with a new project and we just toss and just throw it in there. Depending on what the culture events that are happening for that year in terms of a. This is perfect. It's almost like we designed the hardware for Staro. But no, it's kind of a legacy product. So it's nice and we call it soft in terms of the elasticity. Bring your projects to life with the Adafruit Halloween. Is it a good tag? Good tag. So the way it's designed is to have the edges taper out so you have more flexibility on those sides. And then in the center you have enough space for the Halloween itself. Can't wait to put this on our Christmas tree. Or any model. Let's go ahead and jump into the learn guide. Let me post the link to all this in here. If you want to follow along. I'm going to go ahead and pull out the product pages. As you can see the Halloween M zero express is in stock right now for 3495, 28 are in stock right now. So you can check this out. You got all the different sensors and it's a feather compatible boards. If you want to add even more stuff to it. Well, there you go. That is a good point. I wish I had time to add a external sticker. It's got so much stuff to it. All these ports and stuff you want to connect other sensors to it. Let's see it has an accelerometer. It has eight megabytes of flash. It's got a built-in NeoPixel built-in on off switch ports for NeoPixel ports for a speaker because it has a built-in amplifier even has a built-in volume knob, right? It has a light sensor that pokes through which actually changes and adjusts the iris. So if you're wondering why is that iris so big is because it's covered over now. But that's sort of part of the aesthetic. And of course micro B USB jack. So all these lovely goodies for only 34 bucks. And if you want the upgraded version it's not in stock at 80 fruit but it is in stock with Digikey. They have eight in stock right now. This is the Halloween M4. It has built-in NeoPixels. Let me just type in Halloween or just 3900 because that's the PID or no it wasn't. It was like 4,300. I'm posting the direct link. If you want to get it on Digikey. And it's the orange Halloween edition. Again, this isn't in stock but it is in stock. See that red button that says buy on Digikey. You can click that and that'll bring you over here. You can see that it has eight in stock and it ships immediately. Excellent. And it's only 39, nine to five. Which is like four or five dollars more than the M0. I would recommend the M4 version just because it's got a gorgeous IPS display. It's double the pixels. I think double the speed because it's an M4 Cortex M4 and it has those side lit LEDs. It comes in this beautiful orange. And I forgot to mention that it has cap touch things. Cap touch pads on the bottom. So if you want to use that in your project somehow you could use the onboard cap touch or you can break these out with some copper tape or some other type of like a conductive material. It's got so much going for it. It really is an awesome product and it comes like this out of the box. You don't have to upload code or anything. You just turn it on. So this is great for cosplayers that don't want to even bother with like uploading code. It's just there already. It just ships as an eyeball, which is great. Yeah, same on the point of the touch pads on there. We have done experiments with mixing Ninja Flex and the conductive PLA filament that we have. And that works perfect. So you could break those touch pads out and have it be like on the tips of the star and have it like look to the left, right or play, sound effects, ton of stuff that you can add to this base level project which is a lot of the projects that we do. We want you to have a little starting point to jump off of and add more. Features and abilities. If you were looking for more inspiration, you can scroll down to the learn section of the product. Over here, there's a link that says see all guides. You can see all the guides from like last year. And there's not that many, but hey, the M-Zero has even more, which is over here, right? And one of the stars of the show is going to be the Ninja Flex. We have about a hundred spools of the Ninja Flex in stock. I'm not done with all that. Learn guides. There's like a hundred M-Zero, Halloween M-Zero learn guides because this was like the first board and there's so many things that we did with it. So yeah, check this out. Some of the, sorry, Safari. It just doesn't load all the gifts. We put it on a pumpkin one year. That's awesome. You can connect to a volume if you want. Make a little bit of noise. But nowadays we have Monster Eyes, right? I like the always popular Halloween, what is it? The book. The book. Oh, the book, yeah. Look at that. The focus, focus. There's so many characters and props that use an eyeball and it's really nice to have a product that just does that really well. All right, so there you go. There's the hollow wings. I guess head on back over to the learn guide or did you want to talk about Ninja Flex? Yeah, so we got a bunch of these spools for Ninja Flex in stock and I want to spend a little bit of time on that just because of it being in stock and because of the price of it, we actually have the lowest price for these spools. If you look around places like Amazon or Fender Drives who makes the Ninja Flex brand of the flexible filament, it's like 60 bucks. We have them in stock for $29 and it lasts quite a while. The spool that I actually use on this I think was like seven years old. Yeah, it does really good when it comes to like, do you need to dry it out? Do you need to moisturize it? Do you need to? No, it's pretty good. At least in our case, we live in Florida where it's very humid and it seems to work. So yeah, if you are in the market for Ninja Flex, I think Adafruit has the cheapest, most affordable Ninja Flex you can get right now. Sure, you can get some St. Smart TPU. This is Ninja Flex. It's got that special blend of proprietary chemicals. What else to say? And I did some tests on, well, mistakenly printed this on a Bowden printer and it worked just fine. Really? Yeah, so we were able to use the exact same settings that I was using on the direct drive. Even with a .5 retraction, it printed out very nice. All I had to do was just slow down the speed of it and it would have looked even better. Yeah, we really like the white or the translucent because you can paint it, it diffuses lovely and it's just a really good shade of white. So that's why we really recommend the white stuff and that's kind of how you started off with. You can see here that the... And if you scroll down a little bit, we also have the glow in the dark one as well. Obviously you didn't use that because I'm doing the airbrushing on it and it would have covered up the glow. It's right there. There it is. You got two spools of that left. Ooh. So we picked that up before. Halloween is over. Definitely want to make some... As you've seen before with some of the Ninja Flex projects, you can make like window clings on it. So that... Oh, some of the Lego... Yeah, so you can attach these to windows to make like decorations for your windows. Cool. All right, moving on. Let's go ahead and jump into the guide. Jump through the learn guide. All right, here's the learn guide. Check it out. Go to YouTube video. It's a fun little trailer. Nice little bit on the construction for this and one of the points we wanted to highlight again is being able to make mounts for your board. So Ninja Flex does allow that ability and then being able to airbrush it or even paint on it is a very nice touch. So you can do that. And then below that, the rechargeability of the Halloween itself. Oh, it has a built-in lepo charging circuit. I forgot. It's got so much going on. And then you can hide any of those cables in there or add more mounts. Like we were saying before, speaker, you can very easily add that to one of the arms. But to the products are in stock. So like the plastic convex lens, it definitely gives that eyeball look not required but adds to the look of the eyeball. Yeah, as you look around, it is making it look a little bit more depth to it. And without this, it would look really kind of not alive. But you wanna be aware that like in certain angles, like look, it's a, come on. It's a piece of, it's an optical lens. So you're not gonna get every viewing angle. But that's pretty good right here. You can see it's got that 3D depth to it. So there you go. I remember last year or two years ago, like it was so hard to keep these in stock, the lenses. Yeah, that's why we only have like two left. Yeah, but hey, they're in stock right now for about four bucks and they're perfectly fitted for, to fit over the display on the Halloween M0 or M4. All right, when it comes to the battery, we got a 500 million lepo battery, which is pretty good. Should last a little bit for that or you can go bigger if you want to reroute that and add it into your pocket. Real quick, while we're talking about the Ninja Flex, the West was asking or Mark Hambler was asking about the retraction. So I'm using 0.5 retraction for the 85D. Yeah, we got settings up in the learn guide and we can walk through setting by setting. So let's switch back over. You should be able to go as high as like one, but I'm more comfortable doing it at 1.5 millimeters just because of the geometry on the direct drive. I used 0.5 on the Bowden and it survived. So your mileage may vary, but it did work as I said earlier with having the 85A on a Bowden extruder. And since the enders are a little bit close to the CR-10s in terms of the way that the extruder is, it should work on an ender as well. So definitely let us know on your results on that. It worked pretty good on ours. So we do Western saying that they're printing flex on their ender, three pro all the time, just some temperature adjustments and retract. That's great. Yeah, we're using a 230C or if that doesn't work, you can go up to like 235 or 240. Okay. And the speed is about, we'll get to it. Yeah. 50 millimeters. We'll have some reference points. So once you see all the parts, yeah, yeah, yeah. Click on the JSC extension. You can get one with the on and off button and then the diagonal flush cutters to clean up the print since it is going to come out a little bit stringy. Don't worry, it can clean up very nicely as you can see here. I should have taken a picture, like right when it came off the printer, it looks super stringy, especially like the inside of it, but all of that cleans up very nice. Yeah, you can cut it, you can trim it. It's really nice. It's flexible material. It's like super, super robust, but you can still cut it. It's great. All right, so in the 3D printing page, you're going to find all the settings that Peter's used in this model. So 85A is the short hardness for the Ninja Flex. Yeah. There's different types of Ninja Flex. You can use... One of these is called Cheetah. Yeah, so they call it TPE. So you can use TPU, which is what some of the other flexible materials are. It is not going to be as elastic if you use those other flexible brands, but it should still work for the tips to bend those around. It is thin enough that that should work. Go ahead and walk through each bullet point. That way you can visually say, like, here's why. Yeah, so why do you print at 230C? 233 to 230C, so you can have optimal flow so you're not getting any under extrusion. Yeah, just make sure that, yeah, like I just said, the flow is good. Okay, cool. So a little bit hotter than something like PLA. Yeah. The other thing is the initial layer height. You don't want this to fuse to your bed or if you're using, like, blue tape, you don't want it to, like, to get that blue color on this filament. It's infinite for, like, fusing to a PEI sheet or a variant of that. And that's what I printed on, and the secret to that is having a higher initial layer height. So I'm starting off here at 0.3, so that's gonna, you know, print a little bit higher on the bed, but because it isn't deflex, it is going to stick. It sticks really well. And because I think it's, like, a little heavier than the PLA, it does sort of tend to stick down, too. Now, there isn't any glue stick, any hairspray. None of that stuff you used. It just adheres to PEI very well. Okay. And it's a textured bed as well. Yeah. And then standard layer height, 0.2. You can go at the 2.5, but I just wanted to have these curves to be nice and not have so many steps in the layers. So use the 0.2 layer height for that. I can't believe you printed at 50 millimeters a second. Well, this is on a direct drive. Okay. And it worked on a Bowden as well. The entire print? Yeah, the entire, no, the entire print. Oh my gosh. No, for the, I think this, I should have put that in there for the initial layer height, the speed for that. I think it's like 20 millimeters a second. That's super key, man. But I think that's default. I will add on in there. Let's highlight it here. The first layer of Ninja Flex printed very, very slow. 20 to 10 millimeters. Your backwards, 10 to 20. 20 to 20 millimeters. Because then it'll make sure that you're adhering well to the bed. And that first layer is the most critical layer. So that 50 millimeters a second is pushing it very much. Yeah, I'm surprised it worked. Again, I thought I was printing in the Cheetah, which is the TPU. It's like the 95, a sure hardness, but that was able to print the 85 on a Bowden. You're a magical printer. Okay. And then Stuart Riggs and DeWester have a nice little chat of Mark Gambler as well. In the chat at discord.gg slash Adafruit, we wanna see some of the settings that these guys are using. They've all had really good luck. Stuart is saying that with his Prusa and Ultimakers, the default settings for Flex turns out really good, which yeah, I have noticed that. The Ultimaker settings that Cura has built in and are always being constantly updated with the apps, those work very well as also. And on a glass, yeah, it adheres to glass very well. And I love the glass because... Shiny. Yeah, you can have that shiny look and that's actually what's required to have it cling to a window. So if you wanna make those decorations, forgot to mention that, but you have to use a glass bed. Yeah, you're adjusting all over the place though. So let's bring it back here. I know, there's just so much you can do with an Intel Flex. So what it is, yes, a million uses. Okay, how about a heated bed? You're like 50C? 50C is plenty. You can actually print with, if you're using like blue tape, you don't need any heat at all. Yeah, you can print cold. You can print cold. But you gotta use that blue tape, right? Okay, cool. It might work with the PI, I did not try it, but it might work. For the glass bed, you do have to use a 50C for that heated bed. And on to the, okay, so that's the kind of your baseline slide settings. Support material with Ninja Flux? It works pretty good. That's crazy. Pretty much the same support material, or the support settings that I use for PLA, standard 0.2, it makes the extrusion for the supports thinner, so you're able to more easily remove that. Okay. The densities at 4%? Density at 4%, you don't want too much. You don't want too much. You do not need that much. The size of your part, but yeah. Okay. The height, that's like the gap between the sports and the actual geometry for that, 0.21, interface on, roof on, zigzag for the pattern, and the roof pattern as well. There's no speed adjustments for the supports. Whatever the defaults, yeah. It'll just stick to whatever your baseline is. Okay. Cool, and this was sliced with the Cura slicer, correct? Yep. Okay. This was all sliced. I need to put that in there. Oh, actually, does it say that now that it did? Yeah, it does. Yep. Cura. But again, like people are saying in the chat, the Prusa slicer, we have printed Ninja Flex on, we had the Prusas. Look at this, look at all of them. This isn't bad, because this is what you're focusing on. Yeah, this is all the overhang. Do that while I fix my, and these are all the, on this side, this is, it prints. There you go. That looks so much better. So there is a good look at the bottom layer of like, you know, how the support is actually able to make this work. Sure, it's stringing all, but you're not really worrying about it. Yeah. Like this isn't falling apart. So tell us about some of the geometry here. Yeah, so just the, when you're designing this, you just want to make sure that you have like a super big fillet, so it's attaching to all the sides, and you can kind of see it there. Because if it doesn't, it will be very easy to rip this off if it doesn't have all those fillets in there to connect to the rest of the geometry. So that's the only tip on that. Okay. And then the, this press fits in, so there is like a little cavity in here. A little ledge there. A little ledge, lip. That the, that this lip. Catches onto. Goes into, yeah. Okay, cool. So that's the only, for design wise, just take a look for that. And of course, all of the Fusion 360 files are there, so you can grab all of the geometry of the dimensions, diameter, all that. What about the Halloween board? The Halloween board? The PCB of the 3D model of the PCB. Yeah, did you use that? Yeah, of course. Okay. Otherwise, you know, you can't get these all lined up perfectly without doing a bunch of different tests. But yeah, you can get all of the, I use the Halloween M4 board for that. The zero is the exact same, the standoffs for it. All right, I'm loading the, on the learn guide, I clicked on the edit design button and that brings you straight in to the kind of previewer. You can see here how the model is. Yeah, the only thing I didn't add was the lens. But you can grab the diameter for the lens. Wow, there it is. There's the board. Those are the mounting holes. The, or should probably undo. Can you undo? Well, there it is. So if you want a 3D model of the Halloween board, I have both versions, the M0 and the M4. Yeah. So it's just a really good look at like every component because if you have something that needs to break out and expose any of these, you can see here all the ports and all the things are there. It's a little bit sluggish here because I'm on the browser and I'm streaming, but it's critical to have this if you're doing like a really accurate model. Yeah, I needed to make sure that the clearance was, you know, big enough to fit the bottom part of it. So I'm measuring from the, the stemma ports. Yeah. And this would be a good reference if you want to know how big Pedro made, the diameter of the lens. This is a good reference point here. But yeah, there you go. That's a good use of the model. There you go. One of the other things I wanted to add, I just ran out of time was like having little flaps like we do for the back here, but have those flaps actually be on over the screws so you could hide that a lot more better. So that's things you can add to that or additionally to add more screws to that. And the reason I'm using screws is because like the hot glue or like sewing it, you know, it would just, Henry, if I wanted to have this be as modular as it is, like switch out the board or be able to show the inside of it. Yeah, I think it's a rather time consuming, but you'll get a really, really nice finish if you were to sew it together, but you know, then it makes it harder to get to it if you want to get into it. But yeah, there's just some options. And then the other thing. I think that's it with us for the 3D printing portion of it. Let me jump over any other comments and stuff. Yeah, just another more ups on the 3D models, definitely a time saver. Yeah, for the integration of Eagle and Fusion, we've spent so much time with the caliper measuring the distance between the standoffs and you know, lots of more iterations that way because you know, we have to get them as close as we can. This way it's literally just extruding where the mounting holes are to create your standoffs. And then, yep, confirmation that yeah, Stewart-Riggs has experience printing on the PEI and yeah, I have had it where it like completely fused to the PEI. Oh yeah, it's ripped it off, had to get like new beds for it. Fair warning, Ninja Flex. Make sure that, make absolute sure that your bed is completely level, that it's not, you know, that nozzle is not so close to the bed or it will fuse with the Ninja Flex. Got it. All right, let's move on to the assemble page. Gotta get a little bit quicker here if you wanna cover all the things. Oh, yeah. So you got airbrushing. Yeah, that's one of the things that we love about Ninja Flex, you're able to airbrush it and create this nice little gradient look for all the little details on there. Again, I'm not a good, you know, very well-experienced in airbrushing by any means, but you can definitely get in there and add a bunch of details. They get like all those little, you know, little circles that are present in the model from the movie. So you can definitely add all that stuff on there. Start with the base of the, it's like a fuchsia pink outlines and then the blue on the inside. Yeah, and just real quick, this is the, Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. The airbrush. I think it's really, Airbrushing system. Yeah, so it comes with all the colors. It comes like with the, It's a kit. It comes with the pen. It comes with the bottle. I don't know, I don't know. I have never tried airbrushing folks, but if you want to get into it, this is a really good kit. You can get it off Amazon. It's about 200 bucks or so. This is the deluxe kit. We have a link, Pedro Altosia link, but Pedro also linked it in the overview page. So if you really are interested in airbrushing, you want to get a kit. It comes with everything you need. Is that cool? Yeah, and you can get all these colors pre-made, but since I only had like the basic colors that it comes with, I had to mix all these colors to get the few shares. That's cool, you can mix colors. That's really good. So you can do that, yeah. It's good. You are able to mix all the colors. Rar. Very cool. I would definitely go and pick up the color I need though. It's one of the things you plug into the wall. Yeah, plug it into the wall. Did you need to wear a mask or anything? Like you're pretty good. No, like, Maybe you should. I don't know. I mean, we have like air filters and ventilation in the room where I painted everything. Okay. But how long do you think it took you to paint it all? Um, I don't know. All right, don't, don't. I never asked that question. Like an hour or a half hour. It wasn't too long. It took me three days. No, no, no. It's like maybe a half hour, and even the dry time is relatively quick. It dries pretty quick. Yeah. I don't know, it's an airbrush. It's not acrylic. Yeah, yeah. And it's pretty forgiving too, then into flux. If you get sloppy or something. If you get sloppy, you are able to wipe away some of the color before it completely dries. I remember the first time you did airbrushing, you tested it on a lot of pieces of paper, and you would be like, oh, here's it's splattering, right? I don't have enough water. I don't have enough air. So, to definitely test out a, just like the distance you have to go, have to be to get like that gradient or that little time. So test it on paper, right? I've never, ever still, Pedro. There's YouTube videos on how to. I think I watched some of them. I'm not gonna teach you, but it's, you know, you're gonna learn by doing. Exactly. Yes, absolutely. Because getting like, again, the distance of how far away you are to get that gradient to go, you know, it's like a Photoshop. You know, when you're using the hard edge, like how you have to figure out, you know, what setting you set that up for, you're figuring out the distance for that and how much you're pushing on the actual lever to. Oh really? Yeah, so all of that is, it's like the, you gotta get the muscle memory for all of that. So definitely a bunch of tests before actually printing on that. And I actually had a bunch of extra parts just in case I messed up. I would have another one of the paint on. So this isn't gonna wash off, is it? Oh, it shouldn't. I'm sure you could rub it off maybe. Yeah. Yeah, I don't know. Yep. I'm here for all the questions. Yeah, I mean, you could add like some coating on top, which would definitely be a good idea to get like that shiny look that the- Cause this is matte looking. Yeah, it's all matte looking. But it works well. You have like a light against it. You can't see like a bit of a shine, but maybe some sort of coating on top would definitely give it that wet look. I'd be curious to see if it cracks upon flexing. Like some sort of glossy finish or something. Oh yeah, I should test it out. Or not. That's fine. Any questions about airbrushing? I know they were just asking for suggestions on the airbrushing. Advantages of the airbrushing? Yeah, the gradients. Yeah, you could, you probably can't do, you could do gradients, but like when you're thinking about an airbrush and then, oh, look at this. Yeah, so this is a couple of weeks ago, the time-lapse that we did with somebody. Looks chunky. Yeah, somebody's model that was uploaded. And you can see the difference here. I can't really do the gradient with a acrylic paint. Cause you have a brush. Yeah, with this brush, like I was saying before, the distance of how far away you are is how much of the fuzziness. Was this black filament? Yeah. Oh, see that's the difference. This is why you want that white filament and you'll have more kind of color later in the shade. You can see how thick that is on there to try to get rid of the base color. Yeah, it's not cracked here, but it kind of depends on how many layers I think you put. Yeah. But yeah, I guess you can use acrylic paint. But you can see, you know, the difference in using an airbrush to get that gradient look it's supposed to using the brush. You can do these sharp fine lines, right? Depending on how close you are. Yeah, how far away you are from it. Can you change the nozzle? Yeah, there's it. As you can see in the kit, there it comes with a couple of different nozzles and it's actually like a little, you can adjust like the... The fineness? The fineness of how it's spraying as well. Okay. Again, not, you know, an airbrush expert here, but... Hey, you know more than I do. Just watching some YouTube videos and just experimenting with it, you can kind of get a feel for how to get all that fine detail in there. 35 millimeter tip. That's cool. All right, good or cool. All right, well, there's a little quick... Yeah, a lot of the work was actually in the airbrushing. The rest, as you can see, as we move on into the guide, it's pretty much just mounting the lens and attaching the hollowing on there. Yeah, so no glue needed, it just press fits. That's good. Press fits. And then you use some screws here. Use the M3 by 10 millimeter long screws. And that was just because of how far I had to make the standoff. So there was room for the lens. I'd recommend plastic screws so you don't bridge any of the things. You think you ran into that? Yeah, so that's actually why there's only three, the machine screws on there. Because otherwise on the other side of the JST you would bridge the light sensor and what is that, like the ground to the USB, I think that is. But you could use like a plastic washer or something if you really wanted to get in there. But three screws is pretty, makes it pretty stable in there. Cool, all right. And then you're using more screws. More screws is to get all the tips and the edges to connect all together. And then Lamar had a good idea of painting the screws and that ended up working really good. Yeah, they kind of stuck out a little bit. Yep, so you can paint those the same color as the body. I will use acrylic paint here, but I'm sure the airbrushing would work. I just had, we were already done and this was like the last minute. She was like, oh, can you paint the screws? And I want to set everything up and mix all the colors. So just grab some acrylic paint and that's still worked great. Cool, cool. JST, you could always extend the battery if you want a bigger battery for a longer runtime. Yeah, and then you can roll the arms if you wanted to be like extra curvy on the tips. You can leave these, I just used a couple of rubber band or one rubber band to hold the tips curved in and just leave those like a night or two and it will retain that shape after a while. I think, I'll have to experiment, but I don't, I think you could use like a heat gun or something to like lock in that curved shape or like hot water or something to sort of mold that curve in there. Yeah, I think that might work better with PLA though. Yeah, that's why I think that it might work with the Ninja Flex, maybe a heat gun. I've not tried it out, leaving it overnight. I one of the other models did retain that shape but you're going to need to let it hang out for like a night or two to keep that shape. Or if you don't want to, it is still going to cover around your face. That means Ninja Flex. Yeah, I mean you could add like more straps probably to like all of these sides so that they're all bending back like that when you attach it to your face. And speaking of attaching to your face, somebody was asking, can you actually see through that? I mean, if you position it. Peripheral D. Yeah, you can see how these sides go to the, yeah. You can see out these sides and if you wear glasses, it pushes it away from your face a little bit so you are able to see more. So yeah, you could just put it on your head and you can still see out that way. But that works. Cool, all right. You want to be captured by one of Starro's little minions. There you go. You can be a Starro minion now. And that is the project. Cool, could you send Ninja Flex? Again, yeah, Ninja Flex. Pick up the Ninja Flex. The air paint, air brushing and the hollowing. Yeah. Combined to make nice little hollowing projects. It was supposed to be simple and easy from the get-go, so good work. All right, that's the six projects. Yay. Let's get it out folks. All right. Okay. Go ahead and jump into this week's, what are we prototyping? Yay. The hollowing theme of, is it hollowing the theme of Halloween stuff? Hollowing cosplay props? Sure, sure, sure. All right, so last week I gave you a little sneak peek of a prop from Star Trek, the animated series. This week we have it very much finalized. So this is a ray gun, a blaster type gun. And we have a feather inside. We have a button. We have sound effects now. I'm using magnets to pop off this top cover. And then inside here you can see we got an M4. We got an amplifier and a little mini oval speaker. There's a lot of JSD connections so that I can still get to it. And in the handle we have that button. But also, I haven't wired this yet, but this is this little slider. It's either going to adjust the volume or change up the sound effects. It's all done in circuit Python. And right now it's just running demo code. I have a little snap fit thing at the bottom here and this is where I'm hiding the battery. So I have a little built-in holder that holds this 2200 milliamp lipo battery. And you can see here there is the slider. This is the 45 millimeter slider. And it comes with this little removable doohickey and it's mounted with these screws. Pretty interesting shape. It's using some lofts and some guide rails to make it a little bit thinner here and it's a little bit more wide and it's just got some nice curvy shapes to it. I added a little bit of like a notch here, a little cutaway so it's easy to open this. And then I have my little slide switch hiding back here, which turns it on and off. And thus the amplifier here is our favorite PAM 8302 amplifier. And our favorite speaker is the mini oval speaker. When you mount this to another surface it makes it louder. Let me see if I can pop this out. There's what it sounds like outside. I know it sounds a little... Hissy? Well that's because I just didn't make the volume louder. So but when you plop it in there it amplifies the sound. And I'm using magnets here so that I can get to the USB port for recharging or reprogramming. So that's just one of those things. So magnets are always a nice thing to add. So while that is the progress it's going to accompany Phil B. Paint Your Dragons. What is it, Krasinski? I forget the name of the space cats that are in the episode of Star Trek. But that is what we got. Yeah, so this will be I think in two weeks or so. And there's going to be another variant of this because the idea about this ray gun or this weapon or whatever it is that it can... Transform. Transform into different styles. So there's another one. It's called like the computer mode. That has, it looks like a watermelon and it has buttons on it. And then like you can talk to it. So we'll see how we get that going. But just to show you folks, this is it. And I guess another look on the inside. So yeah, it's just the Feather M4. No prop maker feathering here because we're not using an accelerometer or neopixels. It's just like, let's get that amp in there and the speaker and the button and the little slide switch thing in the battery. And yeah, I'm using the M4 because I think it has a much better DAC for doing sound. And that's really it. It's a fun ray gun. Yeah. Again, a nice little jumping off point for base of making a prop with sound effects. Yeah, it's really easy to do. I programmed it with demo code. That's in the Circa Python Essentials learn guide from Catany. And I just, I think I just changed one of the pins and that was it. A good idea. Jim Hendrickson is saying I could bind that with a TV be gone. Ooh, and you can turn on and off TVs. I'm like, aha! That's awesome. That'd be great. So it's kind of big. But that's, I think the scaling of it is big because it's supposed to go with Philby's costume. It's going to look about right with the scaling. But there's a lot of fun CAD stuff to do. And it's green because in the cartoon, it's actually green and it looks like a watermelon. It's going to add that little. Yeah, I love Philby. I love Philby do that. This mode doesn't have those paints. So it's, I don't know how Philby's going to do it. He's going to have his own time to paint it. But yeah, that's it. There's the prop that we're working on. You can turn it off with the slide switch. And magnets, right? Magnets are always awesome because you can get to the thing. And no support material. I was able to print this without any supports because I just chopped this off and glued it back on. You know, I think that's fine. That's a little bit of a seam. But hey, I kind of cut it up quite a few different places. You can see there's a seam here. There's a seam here. That's because I can print it flat and not have to worry about supports. But there you go. Weird obscure prop from Star Trek. The animated series. And Mark Gambler is saying that, yeah, the M4 has the speed. It really makes the sound work better. It'd be tougher with slower processors. Yeah. I think it would work with the RP2040 MP3 playback, but yeah, very fun. I think they've, Catney and Scott have finalized MP3. Right, or Dan too. And Dan fixed some of the bugs that was in the playback for that. So. Cool. All right, that's what we're prototyping. All right. We have nothing, but we're running out of time. So I'll share it next week. Oh, yeah, we've got like 10 minutes. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week. Not yet. I got shop talk. Don't forget we got CAD files on GitHub. We have a GitHub repository that holds all of our 3D models of various boards and components for Materfruit. The latest one I added was the LED Matrix Driver. This is the IS-31FL3741. This has a ton of LEDs. The Matrix Array of RGB LEDs. These are not NeoPixels. These are RGB LEDs. The footprint is an SMD-2121. I only know that because I had to draw the damn thing. But it has a Stem-A connector on it and pinouts and a nice lovely grid. You can control it over I squared C. So you can use a QT Pi or a Feather to control it over a circuit Python. And there's a library and the learn guide is in the works. So if you want to get the 3D model for this thing, maybe make a little case. You can do that using our 3D model. And it's up there on our GitHub repository. They're out of stock right now. But if you got yourself one, maybe you can do a cool project with it. It's got mounting holes as well. I love mounting holes. So there you go. 3D model of the LED Matrix Driver. All right. Now we can do. Any questions about the LED Matrix Driver? Nope, they just wanted to be in stock. Yeah, sorry. I took the last one. All right. Well, that is the shop talk. It's a pretty quick one. Again, 3D models on GitHub. Post-it. Yep. Thank you. Also, another note on that. I went through and did some of the issues. I closed out some of the issues. So thanks, folks, for hanging in there. It's hard to get to all of them. I can't get to all of them, but I'm trying to get to them as I have time. But there are some updates and some issues that I closed out. And if you have parts request, you can use the issues tab as well. And if you want to contribute, you can do that as well. I haven't been able to look at the PR. Sorry. I need someone else to look at it. But anyway, that is the GitHub repository for CAD parts. All right. Every week, or start the page, you can get notified when a new one is updated. Uploaded. Right. Thank you. And updated. Some of them got updated because some of them get stemmified, which is what happened. Very cool. All right. Now we're ready for... We didn't have any community makes this week, but we do have a time lapse Tuesday. Every Tuesday, Pedro finds a model from the community and 3D prints it this week. Yeah. So this was a request from Lamar. Yeah, a request from Lamar. You've been watching the What If series and... Yeah, the Marvels. What? Zombies and Halloween. It's perfect. Glow in the Dark filament. This is from Ayan Robinson. He modeled this up. And you printed it out with some support material, using some glow in the dark. Yeah, supports all over. Super fun. So this is available on the Colts 3D website. I'll show you in just a second after the video is done. Very cool. And we're using the ColorFab Glow in the Dark. He's gonna bite you. And I am just impressed with how the quality came out with so much support material all over. As you can see in his mouth, all up in his eyes. And it cleaned up very well. So we're using the adaptive layer heights for this. So it was anywhere from 0.5 to 0.2 millimeters. This is a UV flashlight. And UV flashlights work really well with Glow in the Dark stuff. So let's see how it glow in the dark. Just gotta do it a little bit further away so it's not super blowing out the camera. But yeah, you're not gonna see it as well here. Yeah, it's webcam, it's always hard to. Yeah, it looks way better in real life when you're in the dark. Let me charge it up. I did post a snap of this. I posted a snap of taking it off the bed and testing out the Glow in the Dark. It looks way better in the snap. Like it's like, it's illuminating the whole room. Okay, now this is Glow in the Dark from Amazon or from Color Fab, but like any of the stuff on Amazon should have enough pigments that make it Glow in the Dark to glow very nice. There's different colors. This is just the standard green pigment. That was common. It works a lot better if you just leave it in the sun, though. Really? Yeah. You can kinda see it. It doesn't work as good with the lights all around. Sorry, it looks percent fun. So I didn't print the entire model. There's like supposed to be that bust down there. Right, I was gonna say like a. And then just wanted the head for that. Yeah. But excellent resin print. This is a printed resin printer. You could also print it. It works pretty good on FDM machine. So you can go in there and do some painting and whatnot. Cool, also shout out to Ion. Yeah, this is really good. Which is a sculpt, he's a sculptor. It works for ZBrush, right? Oh, yeah. Yeah, the pixel structure for ZBrush. So if you guys, we're not really sculptors, but if you want to. I'm sorry, maybe pronounce his name wrong. Ion or Ian? Mr. Robinson. I mean you can check out his, these is an instructor, you can check out his YouTube, link is right down there, if you scroll a little bit. Check out his profile. Oh, cool. So you can get some tutorials and stuff for using ZBrush. Yeah. We haven't used ZBrush in a long time. Yeah, we haven't used ZBrush in a long time. That's not really our skill set, but it's a super fun thing to do. Yeah, so shout out to Ian or Ion for releasing this as a free model. Yeah, it looks really nice. It's so detailed. So as Pige was good and good, like hey, you can FDM it, just some support material. They're just tongue, some good tongue. Right? And the teeth all came out perfect. I mean as perfect as you can get. Yeah. I can do some better focusing here if you give me a second. There you go, closer. Yeah, look at that. And what's your layer height? So we're using an adaptive layer height, so it's anywhere from like, I think it's like 0.5. That's cool. To 0.2. That's some damn good detail. Even in the back here, where it usually overhangs where like supports are. Yeah. And this would snap into the... Into the bust, yeah. It's kind of funny. It's kind of like you chopped his head off and... I mean, kind of close to what happens in that. Hot potato, hot potato, ah, don't bite me. Sorry. That'd be cool. Yanni is suggesting an LED stand for the zombie. It gets like some, with the UV LEDs. It's a nice illumination on it. Cool, cool. Yeah, you should have printed the bust. Because the bust shows what if. Yeah. Whatever. I mean, the head is like the hero. Yeah. Sorry, Cap. Your time is over and you slice it in half. Ah, spoilers. I'm so sorry. That was last week. Yeah, it was last week. That episode. You're right. There's a new episode tonight, which we won't watch because we're going to be... Show and Telling. Yanni's Show and Telling, which, yeah, go ahead and segue into the end there. All right. All right, so that's, you can get the model off Colt 3D. There's a link. You can check it. And it's a little way to test the settings on your printer to get like the most highest quality in terms of using a, like a high... Low layer height. Freaking 50 microns. No, like five microns. 0.05 millimeter layer height. That's, that's, that's crazy. Very cool. All right. Well, that's this week's time lapse. Check it out. All right. All right. Full week of shows ahead. That's right. Tonight is... Tonight is Show and Tell. We hope you're on there. This week is special edition hosted by JP. JP will be hosting and we'll be hosting the following week every Wednesday at 7 p.m. Eastern time. Come and show your work in progress, ideas, maker spaces, retro gear. All is very fun. So check it out. We'll drop a link at 720 ish. We'll drop a link in the Discord chat room where you can click on it. It's a StreamYard link. You just click on that and then your microphone and your webcam will, was what we don't use. Great explanation. And then shortly after at 8 p.m. Tonight is Ask and Enger with Lamar and Phil. We'll be covering all the new products. Python on hardware and news in the open source community beyond. Cool. I don't know what else. What else? And then tomorrow. Tomorrow is JP's workshop. Every Thursday at 4 p.m. Eastern time or 1 p.m. Pacific time. Yeah. So you can check out with JP, live building and more. Scott's on every Friday at 2 p.m. Pacific time or 5 p.m. Eastern time. Full hour of deep diving, right? In Circuit Python Dev and some of the core work. So shout out to Scott. And then every Sunday from the desk of Lady Aida where she does amazing things like the great search with DigiKey and work in progress stuff. So you can check that out. And then on Mondays is the Circuit Python meeting. It happens every Monday at 2 p.m. Eastern time. It happens live in the Discord chat room. And it gets posted as a bit of a podcast and podcast services or on the YouTube playlist. I'm not done. Tuesdays is JP's product pick of the week. This week he did a radio breakout board which is really, really fun. He had a lot of cool demos. And he's having fun with that one. And on Tuesday you can get 50% off the pick of the week. And it only happens when he's streaming. So be sure to check it out every Tuesday at 4 p.m. Eastern time or 1 p.m. Pacific time. And then we're back over here on Wednesdays. We do the show every Wednesday at 11 a.m. Eastern time. Thank you everybody for watching. We hope to see you tonight. If not, good luck on all your maker endeavors. But until then, remember to make a great day. Bye everybody. Stay safe and good luck. We'll see you tonight. Bye folks.