 So, it's been a while since I purchased a Nuke printer that wasn't a Prusa. And I was doing really well fighting the temptation to get the Nuke Bamboo Lab X1 Carbon after all the hype. That was until a few students from my weekly Fusion 360 online class bought theirs and couldn't stop talking about all the incredible features. And of course, the amazing speed. So I finally caved under the peer pressure and I bought one. In today's video, I thought I'd take you with me as I kick the tires and see if the hype is all it's cracked up to be. I know there's been a lot of videos on this printer already, so I'll approach this one with an emphasis on things that weren't so obvious to me or that may have been left out of the instructions. And I'll let you know my initial thoughts. Just a heads up that if you enjoy 3D printing, then you'll want to check out my Fusion 360 Quick Start course linked below. It will quickly and efficiently get you up and running with designing your own models for 3D printing. Alright, tip number one. I know you're excited, but when you open the box, you need to fight that urge to tear into the packaging. The printer comes in a bag with handles that you can use to lift it out of the box onto a table. Do this first. The combo comes with 3 spools of 250 grams of filament each. You'll find a Quick Start guide taped to the top of the printer. Make sure to go through it first, although I'll cover some things that weren't so obvious. The first step is to remove these two screws from the front of the printer. You'll find the required Allen wrench in this cardboard box inside the printer, so take that out first. Now you can remove the foam pieces and take out the AMS, the automated material system. More on that later. Next, we'll remove a few more screws. They do a pretty good job marking where the screws are that need to be removed, so just follow the little red arrows. You're going to want to take out this plastic piece and then three more screws to free up the build plate. Now at this point, I was trying to remove the foam pieces on the bottom of the printer, but they were held in pretty tight by the build plate. Going back to the instructions, it says to remove the protective foam when calibration is complete. So I figured the calibration process will move the bed up, freeing the foam. The previous step in the instructions say to remove the build plate cushioning, but I guess they are referring to the plastic piece I removed earlier and not the foam. I decide to remove the flex plate here, but there's no reason to do that, so go ahead and keep yours attached. Okay, now to make some room on my bench for my new printer. Don't worry, the Prusa isn't going anywhere. Well, not yet. Okay, this part in the instructions really confused me. It says to connect the printer to power and follow the instructions on the screen to complete initial calibration. So that's what I ended up doing, but then I realized that I haven't connected the screen yet. So how can I follow the instructions on the screen? So you'll want to ignore this step and go on to the next step, which is to connect the screen. Another thing not mentioned in the instructions is that you'll need to remove the cardboard from around the extruder and the foam from the poop shoe. You'll want to do that before calibration. All right, next I'll turn the printer around and begin working on attaching the AMS. This part is pretty straightforward. There's two cables, a six-pin connector that you'll want to connect from the AMS to the printer. And then a four-pin connector you'll want to connect from here to here. Then you'll take that PTFE tubing coming from the AMS and connect it right here. The next step in the instructions, have you attached the spool holder, but I have no intentions on using it, so I'm skipping that step. Next we'll move to the top of the AMS. Now in the instructions, you'll see an image telling you to put the desiccant packs inside. Turns out these are already in the grate, so you'll want to pop off the grates and you'll see that they're sealed in these plastic bags. I figured they're not going to be quite effective in the bag, so just tear them out the plastic bags and put them back in and pop the grates back in. I believe this tubing here is if you're using the spool holder, which I'm not, so I don't think I'll be needing it. And now we're ready to load the filaments. By the way, I later realized that these are resealable bags, so you may want to open them a little differently. To insert the filaments, you place them on the AMS. There are four slots and you're going to want to press this little tab here and push them in. So I later realized that this would have been better done when the printer was on, because when you load the filament with the printer turned on, it'll automatically sense it and grab it. After turning on the printer, you'll be greeted with a calibration screen. Hit next to start calibration. The bed will move up, allowing you to remove the remaining foam pieces on the bottom. And then you'll hear some strange noises that you've probably never heard from a 3D printer before. I realized at this point that I had not attached the flex plate. And I wasn't sure if this was going to affect the calibration. So I decided I would attach the plate and run the calibration one more time. The instructions tell you to put glue on the flex plate, not to help the material stick, but so that you can remove it after printing. After calibration, I realized that there were some updates to the firmware that I should run. Probably should have done this first. But anyway, click on the settings button here and then click on firmware version. If you see a green button for update, go ahead and press it. You'll get a message telling you that this will take about 10 minutes. And to make sure you don't turn off your printer while it's updating. All right, we are finally ready to print our benchy. So I thought, when I selected the benchy from the file menu, it gave a message to place about filaments into AMS slots from left to right according to the sequence. This has PLA on the first slot, but my PLA is loaded on the second slot. The first slot has support W, which I still have no idea what that is. The website says it's support material for PLA, but I'm not seeing what the material is. If you know, please let me know in the comments. I don't see a way to change the designation, so I'll have to swap the filament so that PLA is in the first slot. Also, if you know a way to change the filament designation on the screen, please let me know in the comments. Okay, finally, I'm excited to see if the 24-minute benchy is a real thing. The printer goes through its starting sequence. Don't be alarmed when it appears to be inflicting self-harm. This is actually what it does to clean the nozzle. Then we have auto bed leveling, bed scanning, and first layer inspection with a LiDAR sensor. The entire process alone takes about eight minutes before it even starts printing. I don't see a need to run this before each print, and I understand you can disable it, but it's something I'll have to test. Okay, guys, this is the moment I became a believer. You really have to witness it in person to believe it. The crazy thing is that this is the first layer. Even when I try to push the speed on my existing printers, I never touch the first layer. I want that first layer low and slow, otherwise it's a guaranteed print failure. I've learned this through experience. Somehow, bamboo lab didn't get this memo. This printing is in real time. I'm not speeding up this video, and I am blown away. The first layer sticks, and the printer goes on to complete the 24-minute benchy. It's actually about 18 minutes if you don't count the beginning sequence. Okay, let's test how well this flex plate behaves. I'm impressed at how well the print stuck at that first layer speed, but how easy will it be to remove the print? It succeeds again. Just a little flex and the print pops right off. Check out the quality, and if we inspect that bottom layer, it's perfect. The text on that first layer is clear and easy to read. Okay, so you can probably tell if you've watched this far that I'm impressed. You know, it's been a while since I've been excited about a new 3D printer, and to be honest, I really don't follow the day-to-day releases of new printers. I think the last printer I was truly excited for was my Prusa Mark II because of mesh bed leveling. The Bamboo Lab X1 Carbon feels like we finally took another step in that FDM category. A new milestone in speed that impressively maintains quality. Now, this is my initial review. I'm looking forward to spending more time with this printer and seeing if it can keep up with my creative demands. I'm looking forward to trying out their slicer and experimenting with their multi-material AMS unit. I'll keep you updated. If you have any questions or anything you'd like to see me test, leave it in the comments below. If you have a Bamboo Lab printer, let us know your thoughts in the comments. I'll see you in the next one.