 No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. Okay. We have some new stuff and then we have kind of started the show. Let's kick it off right away. Okay. First up, it's a very, this is a really high-res photo. This is a very, very, very tiny camera. So maybe go forward to, yeah, so that's next to a quarter. It's tiny. This is like an inch by maybe a quarter of an inch. It's a very, very small 640 by 480 USB camera and it would be really useful for embedded projects, especially ones where you have, say, Linux or a computer where you've got USB that can read a video camera and you want a very, very small display. Also some people sometimes make projects that have their tether to a computer, but you don't want the camera to be visible. You don't want to get gigantic webcam. You want something like a pinhole camera. So this is it. It's like the smallest camera I could find. It's got a 1-millimeter connector and we have a USB 2 connector cable that cable's just a pass-through. So if you want, you know, say you have a Raspberry Pi computer or, you know, a smaller embedded Linux computer, you can actually wire it directly for a very small color camera interface. You're not going to get super great quality, but, you know, definitely for some machine vision stuff, reading QR codes, taking quick snapshots, time lapses, environmental monitoring. This is very small and very inexpensive and because it doesn't come in an enclosure, it's easy to pod it or put it behind glass or what have you. So I think good for image and video products. Don't forget you need something with USB host to connect to it. It will not work with a microcontroller. Next up. Next up, we've got some ratchets. You know, we were talking about getting into small spaces and I thought I'd carry some right angle ratchet tools that would be really handy. So this is the first one. It's a bigger ratchet. It's a little bit less expensive. It comes with a whole mess loaded bits. So yeah, we have the 33-bit version and I'll show the ratcheting action on the overhead. So it comes with bits and extender, it comes with bits and an extender. So there's Star Hex and Star Allen or Hex, various sizes of Phillips and various sizes of flathead and also of course square and you know, it's the one you end up with square. And then this has, you know, about an inch, inch and a quarter of clearance. The ratchet you can set by pressing this and so you can either, you know, you can either do loosening or if you flip it, you can rotate it this way. So this is good for getting into really small spots, but with, you know, various adjustable bits depending on what you want to ratchet in. But let's say you're like, man, you know, that's a really nice tight fit, right angle ratchet. What if I want something smaller and even thinner? Well, we've got that. The thinnest and most right angle ratchet is the next thing. This one, and Phil, you might remember, we first saw this when we went to Tokio Hands and I saw this ratchet kit and I picked one up and since then I've never been able to find it in the U.S. And so I remembered that when, I remembered it when we were looking for somewhere at Angle Ratchets and I actually found an importer that would let me buy this. So this is a, it doesn't have as many bits, it only has, you know, eight bits, but of course you can get other ones, but it is ridiculously thin. So this is less than an inch. I think it's like 0.6 inches. So half the depth of this one, okay, it does not get much thinner than this. It's extremely well designed and well made. It's got also ratcheting action, but very elegant. It's actually kind of hard to test this because it's so skinny. It's hard to grab onto something. It will get into like any corner you need for sure and it's designed and I believe also made in Japan by a Japanese company. That's why we originally saw it in Tokyo, but a really, really nice miniature ratchet and also of course very small and lightweight. So if you need to, you know, have a very tiny wrench kit that goes into your toolkit. I initially actually, after we got the one I had from Tokio Hands, which I still have downstairs, it's in my bike toolkit. I was using it to do bike adjustments because it was so small. I could put it in my little carrier bag attached to my bike frame. But not only good for bikes, good for anything. And of course comes with a variety of bits. This one comes with a couple of hex bits as well as two flathead and PH1, PH2 and PH3 Phillips head. Okay. And then the story of the show tonight besides YuliData, our team, our customers, our community is quad rotary. So much rotary. It's the code because it's so quadrphonic. If you like rotary encoders and you want to connect a lot of them to your project, you'll quickly run out of timers or interrupt pins. How to do it? You could use one of these quad rotary encoder breakout boards that we've designed. We have ones that have been with one rotary encoder, but this one has four. That comes with a blank PCB. So you decide what encoders you want to solder in. There's also neopixels underneath. I'll show an example of that if you have clear shafted encoders, which are not that common. But if you do happen to have them, the neopixels will shine out the top, which is super neat. And then the rotary encoders are read by an onboard AT Tiny microcontroller and then converted to iSquared C that you can query. So you connect it up to your microcontroller, microcomputer, you know, Raspberry Pi is great because it can't even read encoders at all. It doesn't have the real-time GPIO control. Or you can connect it to your Pico or CircuitPython or MicroPy whatever and read the four encoders and control the neopixels. So I'll just show the demo on this overhead real fast. Hold on. Let me reset it. There's nothing worse than a live demo. OK, so you've got rotary encoders. And then, of course, these are just metal ones that I've soldered in. I don't have the knobs on, but imagine there's knobs. Also, you know, by the way, you don't have to have them soldered indirectly here if you have large rotary encoders like we showed the really big, like 60 millimeter encoders. You can just solder the three wires to here and then use this as an encoder reader. It does not have to be, you know, the standard PEC-11 footprint encoders. Although if you do want to use them, they're ready to go. And this is the four by one inch footprint, which matches with our other long STEMI QT boards. And then, again, if you happen to have, and I have like one sample here of a encoder that has a clear shaft, we don't stop these yet, but hopefully soon I'll be able to get some. Then the Neopixel shines through and you can use a translucent knob to have the the color come through. So this is like, you know, green. I mean, it's incredibly bright. That's nice. You can you can see it's actually that's a bright in person. It's just like collimated out the end. Yeah. So you have nice pink knobs. So this is, you know, an easy, easy way to add a ton of encoders. There's also the bottom of the board. Three address jumpers you can cut so you can connect up to eight of these at the same time and get just a ridiculous number of encoders. And there's also an interrupt pin, which you can have toggle when either the button is pressed. So you, you know, press the button and hear it. It's detecting the encoder switch or when the encoder is rotated. And that way you're not spamming the I squared C ask it constantly. Hey, something changes, something changed. You can do that, of course. But if you want to save I squared C and get better performance, you listen to the interrupt pin and it'll tell you, but then, you know, you have to wire one more pin up to your quad encoder breakout. So all the encoders encoder away. We've got code for Arduino and circuit Python for this board. So it's it's ready to rock. Don't forget you need to pick up four encoders to go with it. OK, and that is new products this week. Rotate, rotate, rotate. No no no no no rotating. No no no no no.