 What's going on guys my name is Alex Vanover aka Captain Vanover and today we are going to be building the Rotorite CL-1 VS. The VS stands for Vanny style that is my particular style of flying I guess you could say for freestyle and I've been working for a very very long time on trying to perfect a freestyle build that was ultra smooth could fly on a high definition system such as the DJI system which we'll be building with today and was affordable and cheap like I wanted something that wasn't going to break the bank and I also wanted something that was reliable and I feel like all the components I have here today really capitalize that motivation. Before we get started I want to cover some of the components that we'll be using. We're going to be using the Rotorite CL-1 VS frame. The only difference between this frame and the standard CL-1 frame is the arms are thicker they are six millimeters thick and they are skinnier. The reason I went with these arms was because I wanted the frame to be more of a squished X which helps get the propellers out of view of the GoPro but I also wanted it to be lighter and more aerodynamic and I actually feel like this is even strong it's extremely durable and comes in at about 116-120 grams I believe. We have my signature Rotorite hype tray motors these are a 2207.5 1860 kV motor. I've been rocking these motors for about a year and a half now they have been just so smooth and excellent to me. Now moving on to the stack today we're going to be using the Fetech stack. Fetech is a German company that licenses kiss firmware so you can run Betaflight on it if you want but we're going to be running kiss firmware on it today. So this right here is the Fetech 45A 4-in-1 6-cell capable ESC. This is what we're going to be soldering all of our motors and our power leads to today and then this right here is the Fetech F7 flight controller. As you can see we're going to be using the 30x30 build today but you can also use the 20x20. Moving on a little bit I have a XT60 with 16 gauge wire with a pre-solder capacitor I believe you can find these online. I'm lazy and so I wanted to get it pre-soldered if not the 4-in-1 ESC includes a capacitor. I would highly highly highly recommend if you guys are going to run 6-cell on any ESC especially a 4-in-1 ESC to use a capacitor in this case it's pre-made. Moving on to the video system we're going to be using the Kedx Vista. This is a 6-cell capable machine. Now the benefit of this right here is it's a little bit smaller than the DJI air unit but it uses the same DJI camera. I've been rocking this thing for about eight months now and it's given me nothing but great results and it's going to go on our build today. Moving on to our receiving system we're going to be using something a little bit new to me this is the TBS tracer this is a 2.4 gigahertz system which actually operates on a very low latency so it's very similar in shape and size to the popular crossfire nano so if you guys are familiar with TBS crossfire this is another product by TBS it's really low latency and the range is actually amazing on it and I've switched all of my stuff over to it and then finally over here we have a few couple important things a mixture of these um flight controller you know stack pieces right here plastic m3 lock nuts some actual m3 lock nuts and some screws so some of the stuff that you guys are looking at over here is stuff that doesn't come with the cl1 so this is stuff that you might have to get on like amazon and we're going to leave links to everything down in the description below and hopefully by the time this video is out you'll be able to get all this stuff from the road riot store so you have one stop shop you can get everything you need to build one of these and without any further ado let's get to building so the first thing we want to do is assemble the frame if you guys are unsure how to assemble the cl1 we have some other videos on it go watch those videos I'm going to get the arms and everything on get it built up as I normally would so the arms on the cl1 vs are a little bit different um they're a little bit more squished which means the arms are pushed back more so the goal with that was instead of having a true x the squished x helps get the propellers out of you and honestly the frame's a little bit smaller too and I really like how nimble it feels in the air all those things in my opinion make it fly much better and definitely suit my needs as a pilot before you guys tighten all the screws and just torque them really hard down make sure you get everything in there the reason being is if you start torquing each and every arm individually down before you put on the next one it's going to make installing the arms a lot more difficult so just get all the screws started get them not to the point where they're tight but where they're on the threads and then once you have all the screws then go and tighten every single one of them make sure your frame is nice and rigid so once you guys have the arms installed we're going to go ahead and move over to the stack we're going to get the stack screws installed which is going to hold on our 4-in-1 ESC so for our stack we're going to be using these M3 by 12 millimeter screws we have four of them since we're using a 30 by 30 ESC we're going to be using the outermost holes you can see that they are recessed so the screw itself will go in there like so and then we take our screwdriver and boom it's already falling in once you have one of them installed you want to flip the frame over like this I use my finger to make sure the screw doesn't kick out if you want to take one of these M3 lock nuts not the plastic ones you want to use a hard lock nut if you want to have your stack hold on there and all you want to do is just get it started like this once you do that we're going to go ahead and repeat the process on the other three okay guys so once you have all four of them started like this you're going to want a few tools I go ahead and use this 5.5 millimeter driver this actually holds the lock nuts down however eventually at some point this may not be enough so if you don't have one of those you can just take a pair of needle nose pliers and I'll show you guys how to do it either way so start the needle nose pliers so what you want to do is you want to grip the lock nut like so take your driver and all you want to do is just tighten it down so we're going to get it started on the screw so I'm holding the lock nut with the needle nose pliers and I'm tightening with the screwdriver and you want to get it all the way till it is tight like so now that's if you have some needle nose pliers if you have one of these bad boys you can just use that either one works great and whatever you have you should use so once you guys have your stacks crew set just like that these are these little o-rings you can even take some flight controller gummies and cut them in half and they work just as well you want to have eight of them total and all you want to do is just slide them over just like that we're going to have one on the underside of the ESC and one on the top side of the ESC this is because we don't actually have room in this ESC unless you were to drill it out to put you know gummies in so once you have four o-rings like so all we want to do is just test fit our ESC if you have a lot of trouble putting it on if it doesn't slide that easily on or off then what you can do is take a a file or an X-Acto knife and just very carefully just extend these holes but be very careful because if you extend them too much you'll turn them into M4 holes which isn't the end of the world if you do that you just need to make sure your ESC is nice and aligned with your stack screws and it'll be all good to go so we've test fit the ESC but before we get to mounting anything I like to run my Caddx Vista cable underneath my entire stack since we have nothing else under there on the seal one frame you have room for standoffs here in the back like so and then also here in the front now this right here are 20 20 millimeter holes and you can see that the Caddx Vista also has those and you can mount it up here like so if you have some M2 hardware the only downside to this type of way of doing it is unfortunately you don't really have quite enough room without it being a snug fit to put the standoffs in here now I personally have had no issues whatsoever running this frame without these standoffs but that's just something for you guys to know but I like to secure my Caddx Vista with just some double-sided tape I'm just going to cut a piece like so I like to flip it upside down and then I just put that piece of sticky tape on there like so and then press it up against the table make sure it's nice and secure the Caddx Vista does get pretty warm even borderline hot sometimes so make sure you have some really good quality three millimeter double sided tape hold this layer back you might peel the tape just a little bit and then just run your finger now if you have an exacto knife this works better remember when you stick this you want to stick it where you would be mounting it normally with the 20 by 20 millimeter screws make sure the camera is facing forward like so and then I like to mount it personally a little bit farther forward I'm at it closer to where these holes are that gives me a little bit more room in the back for antennas and everything later on so I'm going to get it and before I push it down I'm going to make sure I like where it's aligned and then we're just going to push it down twist a little bit and boom we have our Caddx Vista installed now if you want you can go ahead and mount your camera up but I'm just going to leave it dangling here for a moment and we're going to move back to our stack so on the Fedtech ESC you have the top side and bottom side so the side that we're going to have facing down is the side with the connector so we're going to place the ESC on the frame just like so and you know what's on the right side because you can't see the connector but you can see the plus minus and everything I highly highly recommend doing it like this because if you're not careful you can do what I did on my first ESC and solder the positive and negative backwards just do it on the side that has it labeled and don't be an idiot like I am so once you have the ESC on there just like so we can take four more o-rings and we're going to put one on each screw just like that and what we're doing again is we're just soft mounting the ESC this is going to really help save your ESC when you hit stuff and crashes the stack is already isolated from the frame but this is just another safety net for it and the way I do it I have yet to kill an ESC then we're going to move over here we're going to take our stack isolators and we're just going to screw them on now I like to screw them on to where you can't screw them on anymore so this is as tight as I can get it you'll see that it does compress the gummies but that is perfectly fine that's exactly how I do it so once you can stop twisting it you know it's on there so we're going to install all four of them like so and boom we have our ESC mounted to the frame now you should be able to push in on this ESC just a little bit and it should have a little bit of motion but not too much I don't like having any electrical components that are too shaky or too loose it's part of the reason why I didn't want to have gummies built into the frame that kind of isolate your stack I feel like that actually kills electronics because they move around in a crash too much but I feel like this way isolates them just enough from vibrations and everything but yeah keeps them to where they can give just a little bit in a crash so once we do that I like to go ahead and just test fit my flight controller just to make sure that if anything is misaligned I check it now and you should be able to set it on just like that this should move in and out very easily like this we're not going to go ahead and mount this up right now we're just test fitting it and now we're going to go ahead and get on to installing the motors to the frame putting the motors on the frame these are six millimeter arms so it's hard to find a screw that doesn't drive straight into the motor so I like to use are these rotor riot quad skits now these actually come with the CL1 so if you get this then you'll be able to just have these included and you won't have to buy them separately these are better than 3d printing because they actually take a crash a lot better and you can run a little bit longer screw through them so we're going to come over here to our motor screws we're going to flip the frame over I like to point the arrow away from the frame so if the arm is going this way I point the arrow in the same direction and I know people are going to hate this but I generally just use two motor screws if you guys don't want your motors potentially flying off use three or four screws I like to save weight wherever I can on my builds and these are steel screws so they're not going to break or strip out anytime soon so once I get one through like so I'm going to go ahead put my motor on and this is kind of the tricky part you kind of have to just get it started like so and then you just want to get it snug you don't want to tighten it up yet once you have it like this you want to go ahead and align the quad skid with where the motor goes then you want to take another screw and just snug it into place once you have however many screws you want to use in this case for me I'm using two screws you can go ahead make sure you have some lock tight on them and tighten them down I'm not using lock type that's another point anyhow once you have all four of them installed we'll move on to the next step which is soldering them to the 4-in-1 ESC what you want to do is you want to take all the little pieces off which hold the motor wires on so what I like to do to mount these motor wires is I like to use electrical tape you can zip tie them but I'm going to go ahead and electrical tape the wires to each and every one of the arms now the way I like to do this is I like to just go ahead and get all my strips of tape ready to go you really don't need a lot anything more you're just adding weight so I'll cut four strips I like to tape it just before the arm itself starts to turn in so right about there maybe a little bit in and I tape it down on one side like so and then I pull it tight and then I wrap it just like that so go ahead and do that to all four arms and we'll get to soldering so now that we have this mess of wires I just go ahead and pull them all back like so that way we leave our ESC nice and unobstructed like this so you want to find one motor and this is where the soldering comes in and you want to go ahead and run it to the pads now the pads on the ESC for the motors are right here so this is going to be for this motor and etc like this you want to be very careful in soldering to not bridge these two together you want to make nice and clean solder joints in a way you can help yourself do that is by measuring out where the motor wires go so I'm going to run this motor wire to this pad just like that and I'm going to snip it and then I'm going to repeat the process on all of these motors and then we're going to strip them, tin them and we're going to solder them all up and I'll show you guys what that looks like once you guys have all your motor wires tin just like that we're going to tin the pads on the ESC and then we're going to solder the motor wires to the ESC pads when you guys are soldering to the ESC be very very careful to not hold the soldering iron over the ESC PCB directly you really don't want to drop solder or anything like that on this ESC just take your time be very patient I like to solder the motor wires right into these crevices on the motor ESC pads like so you can solder them on the top or bottom depending on your preference but I like to go ahead and solder them in those pads and makes it look really nice and clean and it's going to make it much harder for them to break off over time so once you have all your motor wires soldered up you can kind of tuck in the motors like this I like to go ahead and give them all just a little bit of a tug make sure that they don't come off so the next thing we're going to do is solder on the XT60 it's important to note that this ESC does not come with one of these it does however include the capacitor if you want to purchase this you can take a look at the description down below we have links to get yourself an XT60 if you don't have one of these at home or whatever power cable you want to use I'm using 16 gauge wire here and as you can see on the ESC we actually have these holes for positive and negative now typically speaking we just solder to the tops of these but I'm actually going to because it's 16 gauge wire solder through the holes and that's going to be a nice and secure joint when we solder this we're going to cut this cable down to make it nice and short and when we solder this we're going to want to solder it at a little bit of an angle like so we're going to kind of solder it like that and the reason being is when you have the flight controller with the connector right here we don't want it rubbing right up against the flight controller we want to give it a little bit of clearance like so that way in a crash or anything like that it doesn't hit the flight controller and rip the connector off or do any more damage to it once you have your cable cut down you want to go ahead and strip just a little bit off of both of these pads like so and then I like to twist the wires with my fingers tin it with the soldering iron so once you guys have your power cable like this tinned you want to go ahead and test fit it through the holes on your ESC like so once you have it like that you just want to make sure again you can bend this out a little bit like so you really just don't want this cable coming close at all to your flight controller like this the reason being is in a crash that xc60 cable when your battery kind of tugs on it is going to want to move inwards and that could then inevitably go into your connector so you want to solder at an angle just like this once you have it in the pads like this you can tin the pads ahead of time however this looks nice and pretty as is so i'm going to go ahead and take my soldering iron and all i'm going to do is i'm going to add solder not only around the connector but i'm going to actually add solder in right where it is right there if you have a hot enough soldering iron the whole thing is going to mold together and this is one of those times where you just want to be patient the pads take a little bit of time to warm up oh yeah look at that and before you go ahead and solder on the other one you want to really really make sure that these are not bridged at all we can use a smoke stopper before actually plugging a lipo battery into this but just make sure everything is nice and dandy before you plug it in and fry some electronics you can even if you look carefully flip the drone upside down and you can see where the solder joint is you want to make sure it's a nice clean solder joint you should be able to pull on this thing pretty hard and it not move whatsoever we'll go ahead and solder the other one on and we'll move on to the next step so at this point before you plug in any other electronics before we solder on our dji power system go ahead and take a smoke stopper we have those in the description down below there's a whole video talking about what a smoke stopper does but essentially you want to use those to make sure that all the components are good before you just fry them and spend a lot of money i am not going to use one of those because i'm a savage but we're good from this step now that we have everything soldered on to the foreign one esc we're going to go ahead and take our cable now this plugs in directly underneath the usb it doesn't matter which end you plug in and then we're going to plug the other end into the connector on the foreign one esc be sure to not force this you want to make sure it's not upside down just like that and then what i like to do is i like to run my usb this way that way my xd60 is not in the way so all i do is i take my finger i kind of pinch this cable like so and then i just set my foreign one esc on like that once you do that you can take some of these m3 plastic lock nuts you can use the steel ones however i like these because i can just self loosen and self tighten them and you don't want to tighten the sound all the way yet because we still have some work to do on this flight controller but you can go ahead and get one or two of them on there just to hold it in place while we do some of the other steps on this drone because we have these flight controllers stack standoffs that are soft-mounted you can see right here they work beautifully just like so you have to take a little bit of force to move them but that's exactly the way it should be so now we're going to go ahead and solder on our wires to the katex vista this is going to allow us to not only power the vista but also send information to the flight controller so we can have voltage and current and battery all the important stuff you need to fly your drone on the screen of your dji goggles so what you want to do is this is the cable that comes with the katex vista now we're not going to need all of these wires unless you're using this for your control link as well what i like to do is i like to take the same exact cable and i run the wires just like this and i actually do rearrange them in in order to do that you just lift the pins on the connector you want to just come underneath the connector and really what you want to do is you just want to lift it up or push it to the side like so it doesn't need to come all the way up and then hold the connector and then you can pull it out just like this you can rearrange them the way i had and then you just put them in like so once they're in you can go ahead and push down on that piece of plastic give it a tug make sure it's not going to come out i have my ground my positive my yellow wire and my white wire like so and you can go ahead and copy this on your own build if you're using the same components this is going to allow you to power your katex vista from the flight controller as well as send all the crucial information you need to it as well so once you have your connector just like this the connector on the katex vista comes like this with the wire exposed you want to go ahead and tin these wires with your soldering iron and it's a little bit hard to get to when you have it secured like i did but there's some pads here on the vista you want to go ahead and tin those pads with the soldering iron and i'm going to show you guys where all these wires need to go essentially we're going to go power ground and then we're going to solder our yellow wire as the third one and then our white wire as the fourth one so you want to have your cable soldered up to the vista like so make sure these solder joints are really good because otherwise you may not have video on your drone and that's obviously not good and what you want to do now is you want to go ahead take this cable extend it out like this and then i like to twist it which helps it from pulling these pads off over time and also you'll see here in a minute it helps regulate our distance that we need to the flight controller which is where it's going to connect up to now we can go ahead and because we used plastic lock nuts we can take our flight controller back off the drone and this right here is going to go ahead and plug in to the underside directly across from where we plugged in our esc it goes in there like so and then what i like to do is i like to tuck this underneath the frame just like that and then put the flight controller back on like so now as you can see here we have a little bit of wiggle play now there's a few things that you can do here you can tape this down if you want this cable or what i like to do is i just like to twist the cable up even more which tenses it up some people may not like doing that i like doing that because i don't have to secure this cable anyway and i know it's also not going to rip out of the flight controller in a bad way and all i'm going to do is i'm going to twist this up even more like so and then now you can see that this cable is a lot more snug than it was before all i did was twist it up and then push it off to the side and you can see here why it is so important that we started our x260 at an angle in fact you can kind of push it out like so and now it's not going to rub up against the cable keep in mind there's a top plate right here so it's not going to hit the cable it's not going to do anything to do that damage now if you don't want to use this connector you don't have to in fact the flight controller has all the pads you just have to find the pin out on the fetek flight controller you do not have to use this connector if you like hard soldering all of the stuff which i like to do on some things then you can do that you're not forced to use a connector like this you can solder it up to the flight controller once we have this done we can go ahead and finally secure our flight controller down to the drone using all four lock nuts all we're going to do is we're just going to secure it down on all four corners look at this we almost have a complete drone built we're going to go ahead and put on the front standoffs onto the drone this is where we're going to take our 3d printed fpv camera mounts and we're going to secure a camera to the drone and get that all in place now these mounts right here are not the ones that come with the cl1 frame if you get the cl1 hd vs then you'll get these mounts but if you do the version i did which is the normal cl1 the the smaller version then you might want to buy these separately the mounts that come with it are okay but i feel like these mounts are a little bit better again links to this exact same build are down in the description below when you are mounting the standoffs to the bottom plate be sure to not use these little screws like this it may look like you have a lot of thread but in reality you do not if you do not use long enough screws here then in a very hard crash you can shear the standoffs off and your whole top plate is going to go flying that's not good so you want to make sure you use the longer screw like so hold it with your thumb and then you just want to get them started like this what i like to do from here is i take a pair of needle nose pliers and all i do is i hold it down like so and then i tighten them up if you leave these a little bit loose they'll turn over time and that's not good and these standoffs that come with the frame do not scratch really easily so you can grip them really hard with the pliers and not have to worry about that we're going to put on the front four standoffs only so once you have your front four standoffs on you want to go ahead and take the screws out of the fpv camera and we're going to go ahead and screw them on through these mounts these fpv camera mounts have two sides you can see this side is not recessed and this side is this is the side that you want to put your screw through like so so you just want to get it started you don't want to just shove it through and then on the fpv camera there is an arrow that arrow points up that is where you want the camera to stick if you have the caddox vista and you have the sticker then that is the top side of the frame we want to secure it down like so once you have the camera on like so make sure your cable's on the inside of the standoffs and it might be a little bit of a tight fit if so you can actually heat this up with a heat gun but then we're going to push it down like that boom and that right there ladies and gentlemen is about 10 degrees camera angle and that is about what i fly on my freestyle drones all righty so we are actually getting very very close to being done with this drone what we're going to go ahead and do next is install our fpv antenna to this i just generally like to use the included antenna that comes with the caddox vista there are other antennas out there that you can use just make sure they have an ufl connector which is this type of connector and we're going to go ahead and take our mount for our caddox vista antenna all we're going to do is we're going to push it through like this you can zip tie the antenna to the top plate a lot of people like to do that i have found that i've yet to break an antenna worm out this way and it's not that much heavier than just doing some zip ties we want to do now let's take a 1.5 millimeter driver you want to go ahead and take this screw out just like so there she goes put it off where you're not going to lose it and now we have a little metal piece right here this can be a little bit tricky to get to you can kind of pull it out just like this this is where our gun antenna is going to go so we're going to go ahead and secure it like that and now we're going to take the shorter end of this and there's a little bit of a notch that this goes through when you build it you'll be able to see it when it's like that you just want to secure this back into the frame once you have your antenna on like this you can go ahead and take your screw that you just took out and push it back through make sure this is tight and then boom your antenna should move just a little bit like this and now you have it secured so what we're going to do now is we're going to go ahead and use some more screws and we're going to put on our rear standoffs to the drone like so so we can go ahead and get our fpv antenna mounted up and in position now just as a friendly reminder we are not using the standoff holes in the middle of this frame you do not need them i have yet to break a top plate or have any issues whatsoever you can secure like this in fact you do save a little bit of weight by not having them so once we have it like so we're going to go ahead and secure our antenna so once we have the fpv antenna installed we're going to go ahead and move over to our receiver i like to place my receiver directly on top of the caddx vista like so we're going to go ahead and move our barcode and then on the tbs tracer if you're familiar with crossfire receivers then you'll know that it goes ground power channel one and channel two channel two is generally for telemetry however on this build we're not going to be using telemetry because i don't use telemetry and i don't want to use the extra wire so the tbs tracer receiver comes with these two miniature immortal tees you want to go ahead and secure those we're going to be changing the angle here momentarily and it comes with a bunch of wires like this i like to use a white wire a black wire and a red wire and then it also comes with a piece of heat shrink which we'll get to in a moment what you want to do is you want to go ahead and tin these pads and then you want to tin the pre tin wires again then you want to take your wires just like this and solder them on if you guys want to use telemetry you can go ahead and solder the other wire it can be the yellow wire the white wire whatever you want to do there and then on the fly controller if you are using telemetry you're going to solder it to this pad right here so once you have your wires soldered up just like that you can take your tbs tracer antennas and i like to take this one right here bend it a little bit more inside and you want to bend the antenna in just like this so that way you can get to your bind button right there the tbs tracer receivers as well as the crossfires do auto bind anyways for the first time you bind it but it's still nice to have comes with a piece of heat shrink like this we're not going to need this whole section so we're just going to measure out roughly how much we need and then all we want to do is take a heat gun or a lighter and we're going to heat shrink this down once you guys have your receiver heat shrunk just like that we're going to flip it over take a piece of double sided tape what i like to do is i like to take it place it down just like that and you can see we have some excess like this i'm going to cut it make sure to not cut your receiver that would be bad and then push it against the table just a little bit of force just to make sure it's nice and pressed on there and we're going to be mounting the receiver right here on the edge of the flight controller like so and the wires are going to solder right up to there there is a connector on the underside of this flight controller if you wanted to use a connector on the other end of this that can be nice because you can just unplug your receiver so say you need to replace your flight controller you don't actually need to solder a single thing to the fetek flight controller this is the only thing i like to solder quite frankly because the connector is in a little bit of a awkward place for me on this build once you have it just like this you can go ahead and move your tracer antenna just out of the way for now and we're going to focus on soldering our wires our white wire is going to go to rx2 our red wire is going to go to five volt and our black wire is going to go to the ground be sure to not bridge these we're going to go ahead and cut the wires to length what i like to do is i like to twist all of my wires up so instead of cutting them exactly to length with a little bit of slack i'm actually going to overestimate just a little bit like this and with my fingernail i'm just going to expose a little bit of wire on the ends and then tin them with the soldering iron so what we're going to do now is we're going to go ahead and tin our rx2 pad our five volt pad and our ground pad just like that you don't want a whole lot of solder on these and now what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and solder everything up so we're going to solder our white wire to rx2 alex from the future here guys when you are soldering your receiver to your flight controller you want to be very very careful to not solder it to the rx2 pad like i told you to you're not going to burn anything up if you do so but if you're like me and you realize that your rc controller isn't responding into the flight controller then what you want to do is you want to solder it to the proper place what you want to do is you want to actually solder your white wire to ur tx2 as you can see picture there as you can see we have a little bit of excess wire what i'm going to do and this is going to take no time whatsoever is i'm going to go ahead and take the flight controller off unplug my video transmitter unplug my esc connector and all i'm going to do is twist it like this now make sure you don't twist them too much so it doesn't you know not reach just like that look at how nice that is and now we'll go ahead replug everything in and get it all in place and boom look at that we are getting very very close to having this thing done we're going to go ahead and mount our antennas and then put the top plate on and we're pretty much done with this thing besides programming so what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and lift up our fpv antenna mount i'm going to take one of the antennas and all i'm going to do is i'm going to place it right about there so on the cl one frame i'm going to take a zip tie run it through the holes around the antenna and then secure it down and that's going to hold one of our antennas in place on the backside right there i have my who's this guy dude i'm literally trying to do a build video i'm literally trying to do a build so as you guys can see there on the back i have my zip tie with the end of my zip tie on the top side and that is holding my tbs tracer antenna on there like so from this point we can go ahead and put our fpv mount back on now this one i like to mount on the arm just like that that way you have diversity between the two so we're going to flip the drone upside down and i don't want to mount it like this way out here where it's got no slack i'm going to mount it pretty close to the center like so what i like to do for here is i like to take a little bit of double-sided tape as you can see i actually have a little piece right here and i'm just going to cut a little tiny square now i'm not going to only mount this antenna with double-sided tape however i am going to use this as a way to help hold the antenna onto the frame itself and give it a little bit of a cushion since it is out here on the arm and just stick it on and it's on there pretty good in fact i've actually seen pilots do this technique where they actually take a heat gun they heat the double-sided tape up and then they press their antenna on there and it seems to do a pretty darn good job of holding it on but what i'm going to do from here is i'm going to take a zip tie i'm going to wrap it around the part of the antenna right here and that's going to do a fantastic job of holding this thing on there it might have a little bit of wiggle like this but trust me this bad boy is not coming off there easily at all and then boom we are pretty much done with this build all we're going to do now is secure our top plate to the drone using six screws if you guys are using a gopro mount you can go ahead and install that right now i do not like to use the shorter screws even though this top plate is only two millimeters thick again it's not that much more weight and we've saved some weight elsewhere on the build i use the longer screws which are included with the frame and we're going to secure this on like so that right there my friends is a cl1 vanny style build we're going to go in and take the battery pad that's included with this frame peel back the sticky side and we're just going to place it down like so boom guys these are the exact same components that i use i am very very excited to show you guys the setup process for this drone how easy it is to go through the kiss configurator and program this quad the fed tech flight controller the catx vista the cl1 frame and everything like that it's a really simple build and i think you guys will really enjoy the way it flies all right guys so we're going to go ahead and program this drone in the kiss gooey if you have never used this before i'm going to walk you through step by step what you need to do you want to start by downloading it we'll see links for that in the description down below and what we're going to do is we're going to activate and we're going to flash the drone with the latest firmware so you want to plug in a micro usb cable because we're going to click connect it's going to tell you warning your kiss flight controller is not activated you want to click activate now and then boom it takes you to the main menu that you need before you start messing with any of the settings you're going to want to move over to fc flasher so we're going to select a remote firmware if you're on a some beta firmware then you can download that online but as of the release of this video i'm using 1.3 rc 45 y this has support for the dji osd among some really other cool features like that tech one wire and many other things we're going to click download firmware once that does its thing we're going to click flash firmware the flight controller will start blinking and that means it's flashing and it'll also tell you the progress on the screen which right now is at 15% once that's done we're going to move on to the next step so once your firmware is updated you should get this warning again which says your flight controller is not activated we're going to click activate and then boom we're pretty much ready to go so we'll get in all these settings here in a minute but before we do that we're just going to go ahead and move over to here if you're using fed tech one wire there's a whole thing about that for another video you can go ahead and select that i'm going to select d shot 2400 and click save and what we're going to do before we do anything else is we're going to go ahead and get our motors going the right direction so you want to make sure that your radio whether that's the tbs tracer like i'm using um or your crossfire whatever it may be is bound in order to test the motors because we're actually going to be using the throttle to ramp up the motors so you're going to want to go into here if you're using anything tbs such as the tracer or crossfire you want to go ahead and select tbs crossfire we're going to go over here we're going to click save you want to go to your data output and move your sticks on your controller and just make sure that everything is responding your arm switch and everything like so what we can do from this point is go ahead and test our motors now the esc should come with the latest firmware but if not we'll go ahead and show you how to update that here in just a moment but before we do we want to make sure that our motors are all spinning and we want to make sure that they're spinning either the right way or the wrong way so while we're updating our esc we can make sure we go ahead and reverse them and do so so before we click test we're going to go and empower a battery we're going to click test it's going to tell us yes click i know what i'm doing you want to click enable motor test and we're going to do one motor at a time and it's very important to note which motor is spinning so here we go so that is motor one now as you can see on the screen that is actually pwm2 and we'll talk about that here in a moment and it is spinning to the left we're going to select motor two it's spinning left as well that's spinning left as well so they are all spinning left now the big crucial thing is the motor mapping is wrong when we spun up motor one it actually shows up as pwm2 here on the screen so the way to fix that is we're going to unplug the battery we're going to go over to configurator and we're going to go to motor output mapping and we're going to do 90 degree clockwise and as you can see here it goes in the same order they spun one two three and four now what we can do is we need to go into our esc configurator and we need to reverse two of the motors because they are actually all spinning to the left now if you're like me you can see here on the screen you may want to run your props reversed what that means is your motors spin away like so versus spinning inwards and this is a personal preference thing i like to run my motors out like this i feel like it keeps grass and everything out of the fpv camera and if you want to do that then you want to go in and click that and click save down below now because that as you can see here it tells you on the screen where your motors need to be spinning so all of them were spinning left which means we need to reverse motors one and three so now we want to disconnect from the kiss gooey we want to go ahead and use the fetek esc configurator like so now at the time of this video release the fetek configurator is relatively brand new and sometimes it can be just a little bit finicky to connect to so if you guys are having trouble connecting that's a known bug and hopefully by the time this is out that will be fixed but what we want to do is we want to plug our lipo battery in what you want to do is make sure that it's using the usb and click connect and if it takes too long in this case it worked first try just go ahead and click disconnect reconnect but in this case it worked first try this is a beta so by the time this comes out this will probably be finalized now what we want to do is we want to click on remote firmware and we want to make sure we're on the latest now we are on 1.127 we can go ahead and update that firmware to the latest like that flash selected we're going to go ahead and click that and as you can see here it's going and updating each and every one of the escs right now once that's done we'll go ahead and adjust the esc settings it's probably good they're all updated firmware done for health and safety always remove propellers please check my direction yes i have not mentioned that yet and that's a very important point guys please please please do not mount your propellers to your drone while you're programming it just in case a motor starts up so what we're going to go ahead and do now guys is we're going to go over here two settings now from here we're going to go ahead and select soft break on each and every one of the escs that's going to help the motors stop a little bit softer which in theory should not hurt your esc as much just the settings i like to use and as we remember we need to reverse motors one and three so we're going to go ahead and do that right now and we're going to click save once that's done we can disconnect from the gooey unplug the battery from the drone and now we're going to go back over to our kiss gooey we go back to our data output and we're going to do another motor test so plug your lipo battery back into your drone click test click i know what i'm doing and we're going to go one motor at a time so when we click pw1 the front right motor should spin up when we give it throttle and it is spinning to the right which is correct we're going to click on motor two now it's spinning correct three is correct and four so all of our motors are correct which is good so now that all that is done we can go ahead and run through all the other configurator settings that we need and then we're going to be ready to fly this drone so we can go ahead and unplug our battery we're going to go into the configuration right here now these are stock pids i would highly recommend before you start messing with the pids or even for as a matter of fact using my pids or anyone else's i would highly recommend that you guys go out fly it on stockpids you can adjust your rates accordingly but just make sure the drone flies and doesn't do anything weird like oscillator shake if you're having issues with that then there's probably something wrong on the build before you start using people's custom pids just remember that the higher the pids are the more likely you are to burn something up so make sure your drone flies normally on stockpids before going and trying someone else's or trying mine we're going to go over here to general settings i like to set my minimum throttle to about 10 50 minimum command at a thousand this is going to essentially act as air mode for all of you guys who come from beta flight and now our arm functions so oxysilatory one is my main switch on my radio i'm going to set that to high meaning when i'm in the high position of the switch it's going to arm my motors and then we're going to go to turtle mode select auxiliary two and also select that as high you can actually use leds and a bunch of other cool features on this flight controller we're just not going to mess with those right now and then we're going to click save at this point we're going to go over to our advanced settings we have the flight controller mounted like it shouldn't be so we don't need to use a custom orientation for our flight controller however we do need to enable serial configuration in order to use the dji ost we're going to click i know what i'm doing so once you're over here you guys want to go ahead and head over to serial three and make sure you select dji msp and click save and now you can go over here to our dji layout i like to select top meaning all of the dji ost information for my quadcopter is going to be on the top of the screen and you can select metric or imperial you can even select crosshair or some people run gps you can click save and then the only other setting that i'm going to change immediately off the bat is the set point weight now there's a whole another video that is out there that talks about this and just the general pids for the drone set point weight just kind of adjusts how the drone feels in the air in terms of like the the stiffness or the smoothness i like to set mine to 85 so we're pretty much done with this build now at this point you can go ahead and put in your custom pids or go out and tune this drone again i highly recommend just flying it as is if you guys are interested in my pids we will have a link in the description down below we're not only you can access my personal pids for this drone which big shout out to vic fpv who i basically stole most of them from and just slightly adjusted but also for him helping me out with tuning this drone so thank you very much to vic fpv you guys can get my whole cli dump for this drone in the link in the description down below along with my rates and my pids everything that you need to build this drone we're going to go ahead and before we put props on we're going to plug a battery in and we're going to see if it arms now one cool thing about feth tech is the slow motor startup like this and we're going to move our yaw left and everything seems to be working well we're going to try our turtle mode at this point if the drone kind of wigs out here on the bench you will know what that is if it happens to you then you want to make sure that your flight and controller orientation is the way it should be you want to make sure your motors are spinning the right way make sure you've done all the steps i've talked about in this video and if you have an issue go back re-watch all those steps and make sure that you have them all right so thank you guys so much for watching this build video i hope you enjoy building this drone just as much as i have and if you're just listening on this build video um just curious about this build or the feth tech software i hope you maybe learned something today as my good friend josh with marble would say guys i can't begin to tell you how happy i am with the way this drone flies i have spent so much time trying to perfect a freestyle build that didn't require additional stabilization to fly smooth as long as you got good thumbs and you have a good build like this you can go out there and have a lot of fun flying i most certainly enjoy flying this guys and if you have any questions about this bill leave them in the comments down below and also everything that we talked about today in this build video regarding the parts used on the drone the pids everything like that is in the link in the description down below guys so be sure to go take a look at all those things if you're interested in building one of these for yourselves thank you so much for watching i'm going to put some propellers on this we're going to go downstairs into the warehouse and we're going to give this thing a maiden flight look at that van over