 YouTube. I'm just putting together this board here. This is Anom 1875, one channel and that's kind of, I'm going to build the other half here. I'm taking it from a pretty existing, I'd built one to this socket board, red board maybe when I call it. This is why sometimes it's a good idea to check your, check your components regardless of what their indications may or may not be. Now you see here, I don't know if I can do this in such a way. Right, let's just shift that one a bit closer. So we've got two components here, they're both the same. They're a bit closer. They're supposed to be one ohms, yep, each of them one ohms. Now one of them measures one ohms and the other one does not. Let's see which one's which. Okay, so I've got to do this a little bit. A bit catchy and deep because I've only got one pair of hands, but, so if I take this, this first one, put this onto here, I'll just pop that down, and take the camera. So there it is, being measured there. And look at this, 5.4. Then I get the other one. This is one from each channel, you know, I took out the first one, measured it, and it was 5.4. I took you out from the other channel just to see. That's much better. So it's always worth checking, even if you've been using the components, um, this particular component goes between, it goes between pin 4 on this animating 75 and the output capacitor of the speaker. So it's, um, you know, it's a, it's a vital component. There's a big difference between those two. The one I'm going to throw away is damaged. And I'll put another one in this place. That's not going at all. I tested all this as well before I decided to set it up on this Perth board, and it all works perfectly okay. It'll be interesting to see if there's any difference when I put the, the fresh one I'm registering. I'm trying to show you, I've done it now. These heatsinks are balanced on the back of the L8, 1875. There's, there's no anything holding it to the board. So I'm not going to read the board round too much. It's just there until I, until I can get that heatsink on and get it to get some brackets on the board as I do that. Can't really do that. I've been listening to it for the last hour or so. I've got this pixel for a couple of, uh, analog meters there, but for mavos, one of them is a test set number one. That's one on the right there. It's a RAF jobby on the seal on the side, the calibration seal. It's got RAF on it. And the number unless they're an 808 mark three, I don't know they're connected up and they're just acting like a VU meters. If you like on the outputs here, there's one. There's either. So I'm going to put a little tune on not just to see what it sounds like and I'm going to connect it up and do some power, power readings. I should say measurements, really. Measurement and power measurements. Before I try and play, I don't know, I'll show you that playing with this, I managed to rip the crap out of my cones. The bottom rubber is all gone around the side and there's actually where the bite, where the tissue is, there's a big piece missing. And what I'm going to do is I'm going to put some more of the, I get it, hold on. This is the stuff I'm using. On the right up, this is like organic. There's nothing in here, no chemicals that can hurt you, apparently. You can't read it because it's mandarin. Unless you can read mandarin, of course, I can't read mandarin at all. But on the, on eBay, where I got it from, it says it's all organic. And this is, this is a silicone rubber, but it does keep a little bit more movement to it. And if I just brush it on nice and thin, coating that, I've just got it to stick. I've done one lock on the actual cones, as you can see. And on that top bit, I've just got it to stick inside. In a minute, I'm going to, I'm going to brush some more on. I really find two brushes that have been paintbrushes. So that makes quite a bit of, well, it's damaged, isn't it? So it's going to make that horrible noise. I can't really do a great deal, like, loud or anything, but... This is probably not the greatest, probably not the greatest song to actually put on when it's, need something a little bit less, a little bit less banging. You know, I've got to go into the classical stuff for some minutes, not going to be too, too much for it. Of course, this is one that we know. It does sound nice, and it can get quite loud. It can get loud enough to knock off quite a few years on what's left out of those speakers. I'm going to brush that one up, even though it's not come away yet. The rubber is very, very soft. So with the real thin layer or two of this stuff, it will just, it will just get that rubber a little bit more elasticity and a bit more longevity, longevity, longevity. Oh yeah, but it's the power test, really. We don't want to sit here and listen to loads of music. Let's see what we can get out of it. I'm not going to say it's going to get absolutely great, these particular chips I got from Evo. So there could be, oh, it's on my hand round. You know, so it could be genuine, probably not, but I suppose they've just licensed out to lots of different people now to produce if they want to. Put it all on one board, fired it up. I did put one wire round the wrong way around, and I managed to start one up the one end resistor between the output capacitor and the output. You want me to see it from down there. Let's put it before you. There's the one arm. You see it's a bit damaged, but it still works. It's still one arm, so we can live with that. Oh, I also can't do the zoom. It's trying to, I need to do my hands. So, yeah, I'll do another bit of another tract as you get there with an idea for it. Sounds like it does sound really nice. It sounds a lot more what's the word for it, a lot more. There's just a lot more to it than the other little one. All right, we've got that, that insulated one again, because we know that one sounds so I'm not sure what the basic parts are going to be like with this, but the old VU meters, even though I know they're not exactly VU meters, and I've been playing with them too. I've had them both, I've been looking inside, and oh, they're lovely. Absolutely lovely. We've got them nice and bargainous price as well, and an original set of AVO leads and really nice condition. I'm really chuffed about that. Really chuffed, and they're really accurate as well. They're accurate up there, which is what I want, and I don't need accurate to loads of points of what I need. And then of course I've got one in the middle for doing the high resolution, but pretty good. You get quite a lot of resolution up there, anyway. Anyway, we're back to this. So what I'm going to do now is there you go. It sounds nice. It's got no dodging us down into it. Give it a little bit too much, that's what I'm going about, but we're going to sort that out. So I'm going to get it connected onto the scope now. Both channels, I'm going to stick some one kilohertz signal in there and see what we get. Let's get the two miloids on instead of speakers.