 Today we want to introduce you to the rotor riot flow. This is our new frame It comes in two versions the regular version that I've got here as well as this slammed look at that I'm the drip and I'm going to be walking you through the assembly of this later on and I'm vortex and I'm going to be Showing you how to put this little slam guy together. So yeah, this frame is pretty cool because between these two versions It's all the same carbon fiber pieces So the only difference is the hardware so you can get one version and if you decide you want to try something else out Swap the stand out and get a different like kit for it if you're newer to this I probably recommend the regular version. It's going to be easier to build. Yeah, you're gonna have more space for things Yeah, you have a wider selection of parts that'll work with it But then once you've been flying and building for a while And maybe you want to see if lowering the battery down gets you a little bit more fly performance You could buy the hardware kit to swap it over the design is really typical of like a top mount battery Where you've got this longer body for it, but it actually has slots on the bottom as well So you can mount the battery either to the top or the bottom Which means that you could kind of configure where you want the GoPro on the top You could do the battery on the bottom and the GoPro in the center Whatever you want personally, I like the good old-fashioned GoPro on top battery on top battery behind the GoPro So I just use it like normal, but if you want to usually don't even use battery slots I like the slots better true x which is pretty good for freestyle It's always kind of make sense to me that all the motors are like equally spaced from each other You have both 30 by 30 and 20 by 20 mounting holes in the center and the rear I don't think some video transmitters nowadays are like 20 by 20 mounting But I mean you get really creative I mean you could do a like a 30 by 30 ESC in the center and a 20 by 20 fly controller in the rear Which would be cool like for the slams So in the slams you're not going to get a stack in the middle But you could put either your fly controller or your ESC in the back Oh, okay. Yeah, because with the with the regular edition. Yeah, you could do the 4-in-1 ESC and a fly controller stacked on top of each other, but there's not enough room for that So that's pretty good idea actually. I like the camera plates. It's not like it's something crazy unique to this frame I think a lot of them have it, but my last couple of frames have been 3d printed mounts for the camera Oh, just that it has camera plates. Yeah, all my friends have always had camera plates I don't mine haven't and I don't I don't think every frame out there has them That's it is kind of nice when you use all three holes on each side and your camera that thing's locked down Right. Well, and yeah, this because this has the holes for the new style of full-size cameras They have the three holes, right? And then it does have the back swoop So if you have the older style camera that has that rear thing Then you can do that too And then I also like that the camera plates have this cutout up front So you can use a 3d printed camera mount that slides over the standoffs And keep the carbon fiber camera there would be more for like a micro camera Yeah, so you can use a micro camera with a 3d printed thing But still have these things in place which will give you a little bit more stiffness and protection You know, whatever 16 by 16 on motor mounting. So I think it's becoming. Yeah, I think that's more standard Right. I mean, so they used to always have the slots right so you can do 16 by 19 but more and more motors are 16 by 16 All of our hype tray motors are 16 by 16 and it's nice because it is going to make the arm end more durable It's true less material. Oh, I like that. It's got the split bottom plate design. Oh, yeah, right? So I think that's going to make it like a little bit stronger It sandwiches the arms without there having to be like an additional Like dedicated sandwich piece, you know what I mean? Because like a lot of frames that have the arms meet in the middle Then they've got a bottom plate and then just like a small piece like even my frames like that That's kind of the normal way of doing it But this doesn't have just like a sandwich plate. It's got two bottom plates that All right overlap and it's also got the little Reinforcement plate. That's the most common place that this style of frame tends to break is breaking off that nose You know if it go pro on top, so it's like anytime something can fit in between the arms that's getting whacked All right guys, so that's the rhodorette flow regular and slammed additions We're going to walk you through how to assemble this frame So I'm going to be showing you guys how to put together the regular addition of the flow It's a bit easier of a build, but you're going to have a higher center of gravity because your battery is going to be more traditionally Top mounted above the prop line as opposed to the slammed addition which lowers the battery as Jeff will show you later on So let's get right into this All right, we've got all our parts laid out and organized four arms two bottom plate sections This is the rear section of the top plate. This is the front section of the top plate We've got a Little nose stiffer piece. You'll see how that works and two camera plates and for standoffs We've got two different sizes of standoffs and there are four of each they look similar So line them up and you can see which is which oh and of course a top plate battery pad I mean go ahead and stick that on right away because why not grab your big top plate piece Line up the cutouts you want you can just knock out a few of them to get it lined up Then stick it on and knock out the rest press it down Then we can just go through get rid of the rest of the cutouts. I'm going to leave the protective film on It's kind of like the last step. I'll do it the very end like when you get a brand new cell phone To start assembly We are going to start by attaching the arms to the two bottom plate sections That's going to be done with the long screws Let's start by grabbing the two bottom plate sections and one of them has Press nuts. That's what the screws are going to thread up into the side with the press nuts has the Rear of the quad the side without the press nuts has the Nose of the quads that means the two pieces are going to come together like that And the arms are going to be between them now What's pretty cool about assembling this is you'll notice that the arms have a slot right there For the rear screw as well as the flight controller screw Which means that when you go to remove these arms going to be really easy You'll only have to take out the One that goes through the hole and then you can slide it out This is also going to help with your assembly So what that's going to enable us to do is attach the two bottom plate pieces together Just by threading a little bit of the screws in For the four that are in the center. We've got the four Center screws threaded in there and now with it like that You can just insert the arms into place and then do the other screws So it'll just slide right in the arms are actually symmetrical So that's really nice. You don't have to worry about getting it one way or the other or aligning your arm tips Or we'll just slide it in you'll be good to go grab another one of your long screws Has it through the hole in the arm and just give that another couple of turns Still want to be pretty loose. We just are getting everything in place before we tighten it up I do recommend using a loctite on all these screws You can do that as you go I'm skipping it now to save time or if you want to get everything assembled and then go back and add Loctite all in one go you can do that too Loctite's not a bad idea to keep this thing together as you're actually flying it So now we have eight of the long screws in place We started by putting the four Inner screws in slotting the arms into place and then putting the four outer most screws into place We can go ahead and tighten this down now not cranking these down super tight I'm just snugging them all up and I'm going to go around and Really tighten them up kind of like the wheel of car I want to go around and snug them all up so that it Gets all flushed up and mated properly Good job So the next thing we're going to do is address the nose of the drone when it looks like this This is going to go down on the inside of the drone frame on top of the top plate So the inside of the drone frame is indicated by the side that has the press nuts The bolt caps are going to be on the outside. So this is the inside I'm going to take this and we're going to set it there So the four medium screws are going to pass through the nose of the Lower bottom plate as well as the stiffener piece and thread into a standoff you have eight standoffs Uh two different sizes grab the longer ones for the front. There we go. We've got the two bottom plates sandwiching the arms and we've got the Front stiffener held down by the front four long standoffs Now we're going to do the rear four standoffs. These are the slightly shorter size the two standoffs that are closer to the rear arms Are attached via a screw that passes through both bottom plates. Yeah, this protrudes This um just kind of holds everything together and adds a little bit of strength And that's why you have two long screws left over These are the same length of screw that we use to attach the arms So these pass through the lower bottom plate Go next to the arm and through the upper bottom plate And then thread into your standoff there Now the only screws we have left are the short ones. So we'll grab those and do the Rear most standoffs. Okay before we put the top plates on we want to get the camera plates in place So we are going to Insert them into the tabs that are in The bottom plates. The tab goes all the way through the stiffener piece and the lower bottom plates So you should see it come flush with the bottom and you want them oriented like that. So this front cutout Is facing forward. This is going to give you clearance for 3d printed pieces for mounting micro cameras that slide over the standoff Which means you can use the the camera plates here for some additional stiffness while also having Um camera mounts that maybe go over the standoff. So you got clearance for that With the camera plates in place grab the front section of the top plate insert it onto the vertical camera plates Grab two short screws thread that into the two front standoffs Don't do the second set of standoffs yet because the The next set requires the screw to go through Both top plate pieces to grab the other top plate piece get it in place Grab your two remaining medium screws and pass those through both pieces of carbon finish it off Take the remaining short screws And get them into place if you like these little landing feet You can go ahead and stick those on peel the backing stick it on the bottom of your arm That's it. Our frame is fully assembled just like a brand new cell phone. Oh, yeah, it's such a satisfying So that's how you assemble the rotor riot flow regular edition We're gonna have jaboi vortex walk us through the slammed edition. It's a little bit more complicated, but it's not too bad jabby This one's kind of more up my alley. I've been flying a little squished low profile frames for the last couple years So this is my kind of style here. So all the carbon parts between the two frames are going to be the same It's only the hardware that makes it slammed or not. You got four arms You have two plates that look very similar. The difference is this one has Press nuts in it This one does not so the one with the press nuts one doesn't and then what you're going to want to do Flip that one around and with your powers combined You become complete. That's basically like your battery plate. I would say top plate But this is actually your top plate and it's going to sit higher top plate camera protection And then this is like a reinforcing plate to make This bit a little stronger. You get a little more thickness here The last bits of carbon are the camera side plates. You've seen that before nothing too crazy to explain there First things first, let's lay out all the hardware and get it sorted out with the slam version You're going to have a little bit extra pieces than you do with the regular and we're including some extra screws because Depending on which components you're using or how you prefer to put this thing together. There's different ways So instead of forcing you into one way give you a little bit extra hardware You are going to have two 25 millimeter screws 220s 10 10s 10 12s and 10 6 millimeters Our first things first as I showed you these plates go like this you're going to want to Look for the press nuts this plate gets lined up like that and always remember Whichever side of the plate that you see the press nut on the screw needs to come from the other side We've had some people build the cl1 wrong Where they had this plate like this and then a screw going that way that doesn't do anything It just pulls the nut out. So always Whatever side you see that part on the screws got to come in from the other side If you're using the slammed you're going to want to use the shorter screws the 10s because If you use the 12s you get a little more threads Hooked up, which is going to make it stronger, but it sticks out just a little bit above the press nut And depending on your flight controller that might touch. So that's the reason why we've added the 10 millimeter screws So be sure to use those Especially for these four underneath the flight controller I'm just going to go ahead and put all four of these screws just loosely in there Those are going to seat into these four press nuts Just put them ever so loosely in there after drew and I put together this frame a couple times We found this is really useful Because you don't have to Fiddle with it and try to hold things all together and you got three different parts in the screw like that's pretty much Together now since the arms are slotted That will just slide right in there doesn't matter which way you flip the arm It's the same both ways so you don't have to worry about that So once you get an arm in you can just take another 10 or on these ones you have your choice So maybe on mine. I'm actually going to use A 12 here because it'll hold tighter on these ones It doesn't matter if they're sticking out because there's nothing on top of it. Just get these snugged up So this is the reason for the different lengths of screws because if you get a good look at these These protrude a little bit And you don't want that here because a lot of flight controllers are going to have components sticking off the bottom This thing's only going to be about that tall when it's done So you don't really have a lot of room to keep the flight controller up above this So it's important to use the short screws at least for the center ones if this little protrusion bothers you There's more screws in the kit. You can use the 10s all the way around 11 might have been perfect, but 11 is a weird size screw and we didn't want to make a screw size that people struggle to find Okay, so at this point It's still exactly the same as if you were building a regular version And this is where it starts becoming different to set this plate down It's a little reinforcement plate to add Some uh thickness here due to front impacts. That should help you out a little bit So you're going to line those up and take these here 25 millimeter screws Feed them up from the bottom Then you're going to take your second longest standoff That's going to thread down on there Do that again on this side Now you'll know you use the right ones if you have some thread sticking out You should have a little bit of thread poking above the standoff We are going to need the next longest standoff besides the longest standoffs. There should be four of them Those and then we're going to use four of the 12 millimeter screws These are going to be The back four standoffs that support the battery plate. So actually we only need two Of the longer screws the two 12s and two sixes and these go in these holes just behind The arm since there's no material in between there. It kind of allows it to compress that And like squeeze in a little bit tighter than it would have been if it was filled in That should help with having any kind of arm wiggling problems. I haven't noticed seems like it'll be super rigid We're using 12 millimeter that are going to have to pass through Not through the arm but next to the arm to take up the thickness of the arm And then for the back we just have the one plate. So the shortest screws will work for the back That's all you need. All right once you have these back four standoffs On you can just kind of give it an eyeball to make sure you didn't use these because these are too short That ought to sit nice and flat and level for you and you're going to have your longest standoffs We will go with the 10 millimeter screws through the two plates in the front Okay, so now we've got all the standoffs on there. Let's go ahead and do The battery pad all the cutouts in this lipo plate match exactly what's on this So here's that Okay, so as usual there's going to be tabs on the camera plate Slots on the bottom plate stick those guys in there good tolerance on that It wasn't too difficult to get in no filing required side plates are in the next piece you need This lipo plate Slide that there Here's where your final two short standoffs come in screw those down on top of the lipo plate And the final piece to the puzzle it's going to be this top plate I got lucky there sometimes these don't want to line up. So you kind of have to like Tweak one of the camera plates in or out that kind of helps it pop in but For me it was lucky it just slid right into place. It'll be all short screws from here on out All the top plate screws are short One last thing to do Drew's favorite part we get to peel off the Protective film Let's go ahead and stick these landing pads on there because they come with the frame and you might want to use them Or you might want to get yourself some of those sweet rotor riot skids so you can Squeeze them down nice and firm let that glue do its work. I like that. I like that. It's not so click-clacky There's your rotor right Slamo All right, so that's it we put together the rotor riot flow slammed edition I think I'd also like to show you the available 3d parts for this guy All right So this is going to be the full selection of all the prints that we are going to offer We got gopro mounts for either a session or a hero the antenna mount taller one is going to be for the regular edition Short one's going to be for the slammed edition It'll be clearly labeled on the store. So you will know those are the micro cam mounts Nice, okay, so if you're a micro cam user, that's going to be for you. That's going to slide right over the Front standouts right so my guy is the regular edition So i'm going to take the tall antenna mount and you use the session So you get that old outdated shape and I got my new Fancy hero my expensive fragile camera. So bougie breaks every time. I don't know how you had a session Since 2017 I've been just flying like a sissy lately, and we also have arm guards. Oh, there's also this other little piece I think it'll be fine without it But there's this little uh, I don't even know what shape you would call that but what this actually does is it goes in between All the arms like that Oh, it's not going to hurt anything might give you a little bit of extra rigidity By the way, depending on yeah, you might you probably need Longer screws for the frame comes for the go pro mounts for the go pro mounts It's going to require a little bit longer screw while you're doing that I can install my arm guards because there's no screws involved you just pop them up Well, there's screws once you do the motors. That's true But not to for our purposes is all we need and a little uh, soft mount That was like the Hypest of all hype things for a little while there remember the soft mount your motor is the secret To all my smoothness. He won't do that anymore. Really gonna pick them standoffs all the way out, huh? Yeah, you just take the standoffs off. We've already assembled it You have two holes here for your 2.4 antennas and antenna tubes or zip ties however you want to protect them and then this hole That's for the SMA if you have that style of SMA that has the two holes on the side Yeah, okay, you can secure that there. Oh, is that so you bolt it in maybe? Yeah, because you can bolt got you This is the same thing so the prints aren't required you can Figure out some way to mount an antenna to this without it. There's places for a strap I really like using a 3d printed thing that helps me get the antennas away from the carbon fiber That's what's going to help you get the best range. So it's really ideal if you can Get it out and away from the carbon fiber. Let's put the GoPro mount on too. Why not? You're definitely gonna need longer screws. You're gonna need longer screws. I got you right here, buddy Oh, thank you drew for the long screw. Oh, jeffrey. You're so welcome. I like my more than yours Sorry, I like my more than yours. All right, we've got our frames assembled. We got our 3d printed parts We just have to actually uh add this stuff that makes it fly the electronics the motors and the we gotta build these things So we're gonna build them and then we're gonna go fly them