 It's a new, it's a new, it's a new, new, new, new. It's a new, it's a new, it's a new, new, new. New, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new. Okay, this week, let's kick it off with. Okay, there's a kind of like a half updated, half new product. So a while ago, we bought a whole bunch of these hammer header kits for Raspberry Pi Zero that only come with the male plug header and we kind of forgot to put them in the store. And then we found them and we're like, oh, we should really stock these. So if you have a Raspberry Pi Zero W or two W or original zero and you want to plug in a bonnet or a hat or a fat or whatever some sort of thing that uses the two by 20 header and you don't want to solder, you don't want to learn how to solder, you can use these Pimeroni hammer headers and what they do is they let you do this kind of cold weld where you literally use a hammer or a mallet, use any one that you have already and you gently tap, tap, tap and pop the pins of this header through and it will make a solid connection that you then don't have to solder. So I'll show it on the overhead cause it's kind of funky. We haven't shown these in a while. Okay. So you get your Raspberry Pi Zero and it comes with like a plastic plate and then these little screws that help line things up and these hammer headers, you can see there's like these little nubs here and they're kind of like springs. Like you can't press them in by hand, but again, if you put this thick piece of plastic on and hammer with a mallet, it will press all the way through, pop in and then you'll basically have a solid connection without needing to solder. So it could be useful if you don't have a soldering iron or you don't trust yourself with one or you don't want to give someone else one. Yeah, it's a couple bucks and all you need is a mallet or hammer. Okay, next up. Okay, this is the update to the AP3429A which was a buck converter for about five volts down to three volts. We love these little buck converters. Once in a while you just need an amp or so out and you want to give it a couple AA batteries or you want to give it a lipo or give it USB and an LDO won't do the job because again, you need an amp and you're not going to get an amp out of a small LDO. The only thing is the AP3429A, you'll never believe what happened, Phil. It's basically unavailable. There's a chip shortage, I can't get it. Hey, where has been? How's it going? Yeah, so we ordered the chips and we don't think they're ever coming in and so I was like, you know what? Let's just revise this. I found a similar enough chip. Can you go two more? This one? Yeah, it's the TLV 62569. So this is an update slash revision but I'm keeping the same product ID because it's basically just a better version of the previous chip. It's a slightly higher frequency. It actually has higher current output. I also doubled the copper thickness on the PCB to two ounce copper. I still would only really recommend it for about like one 1.2 amp continuous but you can get two amp peak. I think I got 1.5 amp continuous actually on this board but I promise it depends on the ambient temperature but if you do need like a ton of current at 3.3 volts for Wi-Fi, for cellular, this is a very fine buck converter and as it'll break out, we'll, it's pin compatible with many TO220 size LDOs, I think the LD1117, 3.3. This is pinout compatible. Okay, next up. Another update. This is the Icarus IoT board. This is the NRF 91. Oh goodness, can you go to the next thing? I keep forgetting the whole point no more. It's the NRF 91.60. This updates a couple things. One, there's now flash memory on the board. Second, it's updated, yeah, the flash memory is on the back. The module itself got updated to like engineering change order B1 instead of B0 and probably a couple other component tweaks. So this is V2 of the Icarus Feather. However, it is essentially the same thing. Just a couple extra updates and upgrades. It's still a Feather compatible. It is still a cellular module that you can program. I think it uses Zephyr RTOS to program again, not Arduino or MicroPython compatible. All right, next up and this is why we had the code. Banana, banana. We noticed that we didn't have any banana plugs in the store. I thought it would be a good idea to stock some and I thought these were kind of neat because they're not just banana plugs. They're like stackable plus retractable, which was kind of cool. So these are four millimeter standard banana plugs. So I'll show them on the overhead because you kind of got to show the... Yeah, I'll show the two different colors here before I go. Stackability and retractability. Okay, so first up, they're stackable. So each one has a slot at the end. And so you're like, hey, I want more and they slide in very nicely. They're very solid. They got little grippy so you can remove them. What I thought was kind of neat is they have this little retracting plastic protector. So these can be like hanging out on your bench top and like you don't have to worry about them touching because they're protected. But then when you're ready to insert them, they just sort of like, you know, just by pressing they naturally do this like a little attraction thing. And you can plug them in easily and safely. They're very high quality cables. I really like them. So we have, you know, power and ground very useful for, you know, you have your bench top power supply, your multimeter or other test equipment that uses a four millimeter standard size banana plugs. Okay, and this week we have two stars of the show this week besides you, Lady Aida and our team and our customers and everyone who makes this Adafruit thing go. Yeah. Our community. It's two boards. Look at these two things. That's right. We've got two updates. We've got the ADS-1015 and the ADS-1115. Two, I squared C analog digital converters are very popular. But we've stomach QTFI them because we love to add plug and play support to all of our breakout boards. We're kind of going backwards in time. And now we're getting to the older boards. So these are 12 and 16 bit ADCs. They work over I squared C. There's tons of support for them. There's Arduino support, circuit Python, micro Python, everyday Python, REST, whatever. It's like these are kind of ancient and so they're well documented and well supported. You know, the 16 bits a little bit more expensive. 12 bit is gonna be good enough for most uses. It's actually kind of not, it's not common to see I squared C ADCs. Most ADCs are SPI. And so, you know, these are very handy for when you just have to add some high quality analog inputs or if you have a board, you know, propeller chip, for example, or a Raspberry Pi that hasn't had an ADC plug in it. And so now what we've updated is it comes in the stomach QT format, which means it's got these JST SH connectors. You can use cables to plug and play them with our feathers, with the Raspberry Pi, so no soldering required. Of course, if you want to connect to the output pins, you may want to solder to them, but at least for the entry level wiring and testing, no soldering is required. And you can have up to four of these, I think on one I squared C bus just by noodling with the address pin, I think tying it to ground or tying it to SCL will let you choose multiple addresses as well. So, you know, very easy, very reliable way of adding multiple 12 or 16 bit analog inputs. And that is New Products This Week.