 Hello friends and welcome back to another wonderful Retro CRT restoration project today. We're jumping into an Olympus OEV203, so I'm just gonna go ahead and pull myself out of the picture a little bit and we're gonna get this Video footage rolling now. This is the before footage and this was the monitor that I did do a special unboxing on in my very last video before this one and It needed quite a bit of work now it did work great and the screen thankfully looked wonderfully but the problem was mostly just the bezel was real beat up and Of course when I get these monitors I always like to go in and do a capacitor kit replacement, which we're gonna do on this monitor, too But this is just some before footage you can see on the monitor itself a lot of sticker residue Built up on the side. There were some dings on it that I'll show you here in a second And the reason I'm really so here's the bezel. It was just kind of a mess We got a big chip on the front right here And then this was damaged in shipping you'll be able to see this little u-shaped piece of plastic So to get started I'm gonna tear this thing apart while I'm doing that I'm gonna explain explain a little bit to you about this Olympus monitor in case you're unaware The Olympus monitor now that if you if you've heard the brand of Olympus before that's not surprising They are the same company that makes like the camera lenses really high quality But this is a commercial brand that they had where they make lab equipment specifically scope equipment like microscopes and other type of scopes like that so This was a monitor before I get to notice explain that for a second This was a monitor that was used with some type of a scope cart, you know in a medical facility or most likely a lab That's where these came from But this is an exact replica 99% of a Sony PVM 20 M2 MD you so again, that's the medical variant and Everything inside of here is the exact same. It's all made by Sony actually and so You get the same wonderfully high quality inside here The only thing different is the color pattern the name on the front and the name on the name plate And then the in the menu and the sub menu will say Olympus in there, too but That's kind of a little bit more about Olympus in case you are unaware now I'm getting in here and look this is before you guys go too far right here. This is like super pro level You know Discharging of a CRT if you want to learn about discharging a CRT and you've not done it a hundred times like I have I would definitely recommend that you jump and go back and watch a safety video first Learn a little bit more about discharging, but I've done it so many times that I started doing it quite a while ago according to the Sony manual and that is to squeeze together the Anode cap like I did and just pull it apart and then discharge it against the metal plating around the Ground plating around the tube itself. So now we're gonna tear that thing down. I get to a little bit more about this Olympus difference now Olympus they actually Didn't always use Sony monitors if you go back to like the 201 series and maybe even now believe the 202s and Like the 142s and those are Olympus oeve model numbers I believe those monitors may have been Sony's but before that they were made by Panasonic and They were pretty much right on replicas of Panasonic. They were shadow mass tubes So very old Olympus monitors are nothing like The Sony so the first thing you're working on is obviously the power supply This is just a me showing you how to break it down I'm gonna pull my my own picture just slightly down out of the way a little bit more That way I don't really get in an interfere with the actual performance here So I'm just going through now, and I'm using that HECCO Desodering tool which if you're looking for a desodering tool, I've done a review on it before it's a great tool I've been using it for years as well as the HECCO soldering iron, but it just makes for really good use of getting these caps out And I recommend using this kind of a solder sucker as opposed to a heat gun or a heat You know generating hot Temperature airflow hot airflow System I would recommend you use this type of solder sucker instead Just simply because using that hot air can damage the board on this old monitor and the it can also Damage and and move around that the smaller components that are right next to capacitors Not so much on this board, but definitely on the main a board or the you know the main chassis so again, I'm just going through and this is probably 20 minutes of me sitting here and soldering back into place the new capacitor kit now this if you got for example a 20 m2 and even a 14 m2 or m4 or this Olympus They will all use the same power supply but there are different variations of that power supply and Then that just means there are different buildouts to the power supply so the maximum amount of capacitors in The actual power supply would be 17 But sometimes you only have as many as 13 or 14 because the particular monitor you have does not have every Spot populated that might be on a different version of the same monitor for some reason Sony did some consolidation of capacitors by to save money later on down the line I always recommend it after doing that capacitor work Reinspect your work. It's what I've done and then I'm going to go and clean everything thoroughly with a lot of isopropyl alcohol And a toothbrush you're not going to hurt it and the reason we like isopropyl alcohol is that's it evaporates and It evaporates quickly so you don't have to worry about water getting into your components and you know stayed in there for a long time and And damaging it if you were to turn it on so you can even in that tray you can see the gold and build up That's all the flux that I use it's starting like I know some people don't use a lot of flux but I use tons of flux and I Always have and it definitely makes the solder work better and easier for me So that's the first part of the power supply I always recommend you rebuild your power supply if it's never been done on your PVM Because it's going to be Needing to be done That's that's generally going to give you troubles where you can't even power on your monitor Or you might get screen throbbing But it's going to make a big disruption if you don't have good capacitors in that and that's actually way easier to work around Then this board we're working on now, which is the main chassis, which is easily recognizable It's a lot larger than the other boards. It also has the fly back built into it this Cap kit for this one. Now. There's probably a hundred and fifty to a hundred and sixty capacitors total on this main board but the capacitor kit for the Olympus monitor as well as any M-series Monitor is going to be the same and it's only 28 capacitors, so you're not going to be changing every single capacitor Through that cap kit unless you wanted to have changed every single capacitor, which is absolutely fine but this cap kit is designed to take care of honestly 95% of the issues that you may have with geometry or screen imperfections and performance on the actual monitor, so Let me take myself out of the display for a second and I'll show you just what I'm talking about on The area that these caps are coming out of so if I zoom in here again This is just after I've removed them all I'm going to point it out real quickly with my fingers But you can see the most important places are up here next to this connector And then we've got all the capacitors around this big heat sink up here and every heat sink all the capacitors Are taken out the ones are in these heat sinks this heat sink There's some large capacitors under it change those and then if you continue on down around the flyback inside this kind of Metal cage area, that's the rest of them So just you know if you're taking a shotgun approach you could tell there are some that I'm not changing in this middle zone so there's still about Probably 15 to 20 more that I'm not changing that do not impact the screen quality performance So I'm going to again show you that real quickly here, but I wanted you to kind of understand That's the most vital parts and the reason being is that it gets very hot in those in those spots and That increased temperature Can cause those components to eventually fail and cause all kinds of trouble. So same thing before Go through Put your through hole capacitors in the correct spot, you know, make sure your polarity is correct and then the simple method I do for soldering and resoldering capacitors is to Put the again the capacitor through the hole and then I like to take my solder and I dip the little tip of it into the The flux paste that I'm using down here In this container and then I'll rub it around that There's legs and then I'll I'll tack them into place with the two little bit of solder and then I come back I clip the legs and I reflow the solder on the pad and the You know cut down legs and and that Generally gives me the best looking job as far as with Replacing the capacitors and then after I get done replacing all these capacitors get 28 capacitors Um, you know, you're looking at I've done it a lot. So if you tell I mean, I could probably do it all the capacitor work in two hours But if you know take your time if you need to take this and spread this out a couple days don't be afraid to do that and never rush yourself if you're if you're not familiar with doing anything over and over again, but I've done these a lot. So I got I got a pretty good method of doing that And once you get done with that board just like the other board, you're going to want to get in there and clean off all the flux Now I've had other videos. I've shown where I've cleaned like this and I've been asked the question. Why don't you get a Ultrasonic cleaner, but it would cost a fortune for an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to get the Gunk off these boards. Those are very expensive for the larger High-quality ultrasonic cleaners just wouldn't be feasible. I mean, you thought thousands of dollars for something like that So for now, the best way is to use this isopropyl alcohol And uh, scrub it off now. It is getting really hard to get isopropyl alcohol where I'm at This was the last I was able to get a couple months back. I haven't found any sense. So Um, if there's something else that you guys want to recommend to me to use for cleaning boards I'll be glad to try it. That's not isopropyl, but works the same. I'd love to know it Because I've not been able to find any of my area So after you get it clean though, you're going to want to test it and that just means reassembly Now don't forget when you do assemble this board back into this chassis frame That you're going to want to put the four screws in there and make sure that you know You don't over tighten them as you'll crack that plastic on the bottom And then you want to make sure you get that fourth screw which is right next to the flyback I didn't mention that when I took it apart, but you want to make sure you get that screw out Last thing I want to do is just clean off the inside of the tube area And I found that you're the best Method for cleaning is just trying to get in there With an older paintbrush And it really does a great job to knock a lot of the dust out it gets in some of those hard to reach crevices And areas around there and then I have a professional high-grade High-quality air compressor that is beneficial I'll be highly beneficial to to cleaning out electronics because you'll spend a fortune on small air cans If you go that route and and you know just cleaning one monitor could take three four cans of compressed air So I'm going to put this right back together again This monitor is one that you know, it's highly sought after I put this It's like one of the top pvms that does not do multi format. This is probably the second best one Just because it has the 600 line count it's high quality super high quality But you've got an additional input on your rgb and component that's switchable an additional input line And that allows you to add Either two rgb lines or two component lines or you can have one of each And then you can even do daisy chain one out and I'm just an all-around great monitor, you know, it's got the Uh Service menu available on it and just one of the best this one was made in 2003 late 2003 One of the final touches on reassembly is going to be to get a good Coating of die electric grease and I say this every time I do this around both the anode cap and the Cup itself and you can put that grease directly on the metal prongs after it's been discharged, of course Rub it in there. Good. It's it's meant to be there It eliminates a lot of that crackling noise if you have that or you don't want it to be dry up there And that die electric grease works perfectly works great. I like one of my favorite products. That's just Really satisfying to get it in there. So we got a breeze symbol And the last thing to do is fire it up and and just see If we've got screen activity, which we do It's always a relief and hey look, it doesn't matter how many times you work on a highly important machine And you know very complex like these crts. It doesn't matter how many times you work on them You can get uh nervous every time just by They're so complex and some could go wrong some small could go wrong So it's always a huge relief to realize that you've done everything correctly and you've got it back together And so here's some gameplay footage afterwards again of punch out, but Highly recommend this monitor for anything that you're going to do with 8-bit gaming or computers All the way up to 1632, you know 64 Anything that really does 240p or 480i and analog video will look perfect on this monitor Plus the 600 tv lines is an extremely good and sweet spot for things in 480i So you will not get the annoying screen flicker that people complain about on the higher line count monitors Lastly, I've got some some final Screenshots to show you of the finalized product. Now. I do need to tell you that I was fortunate. I had a salvageable shell from another sony pvm. I'm sorry olympus oev 203 Where the tube has gotten bad in it and the boards don't work they fried short-circuited it out before I got them But the shell and the bezel were absolutely perfect condition. I mean spotless So I After I got everything done. I couldn't stomach that old bezel with that chip in the front and the broken Broken u-shape bolt So I switched the monitor over and took that old tube and frame out and put the the one I restored Inside the much nicer Practically brand new bezel and and tube or not to bezel and shell And these photos will just show you how beautifully clean the whole thing is it looks brand new Quickly i'll show you a couple calibration screens one of my favorites to check is this grid pattern and then finally linearity Wonderful convergence. Again, I will warn you that when you work on these larger monitors, you have to understand that you're not going to get perfect Screen geometry in like these corners Right up here. I mean you could get perfect geometry. You might not get perfect convergence You have to accept some of that That is literally how these monitors were made and You're you're going to hit a wall realistically where you cannot improve the picture quality past a certain point But you're welcome to try that with a wonderful monitor like this since it has such great You know service menus and calibration everything That you could want in a high quality CRT so again if you come across an olympus monitor And it's a sony olympus. It will say trinitron on the front Just like this one does right up here if you notice the trinitron or if you notice that it says I would look for the trinitron most likely because if it if it's not a trinitron It won't say trinitron. It will say something oe v 201 or 202 Those ones are old. They're still good, but they're not as good not nearly as quality as the sony pvm models, which are the oe v's and again They made these on up to the mid 2000s So you can generally find them. They're not as as sought or they're sought after but they're not as searched for commonly as say A sony pvm and the last thing I will mention about them is they have an absolutely great color scheme And I mean like the bezel itself Is this really cool darker blue and then the shell is kind of a different cream color And the button Covering is white that matches the shell. It just looks awesome. I love the color scheme of it Way more than the sony pvms like the actual shell. I think it's one of the best they ever did so props to olympus if you see one of these things grab it and Don't be afraid to grab it high quality, but that's it for today's episode I hope you learned something. Please feel free to drop me a comment Or let me know if you need any repairs I will put a link to the patreon page for more information if you need to directly message me Or have any specific questions honestly That's the best way to get to me is through those channels and you also get to support the channel I appreciate anybody who does that Immensely and I just want to say thanks again. I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content