 Hey guys, Brian here from freestyleoneducation.com. Today I am going to be showing you a cool color technique and Matt's going to be following it up with a really great haircut. So we discussed a little bit what this final look was going to be and sort of came together to create it. I was trying to figure out exactly what to call this. I was just discussing with Matt, it's kind of a block color technique whereas there will be a specific pattern and specific line work but it's also more of a color melt technique because the color will be changing throughout the lengths of the hair not just in a specific pattern. So maybe we'll just call it both. As you can see here, like I said, we were planning on Matt's haircut so I know he's going to be doing a really cool sort of shattered, disconnected bob kind of a look. So the look that we're going to create is going to be almost sort of an ombre effect where we're going to have darkest at the root out to a lighter color towards the ends. Knowing where he's planning on having that disconnection, I had, I sectioned off the top and around the parietal and I've clipped that away for everything underneath. The back sections, I've got just the straight purple ink works from Paul Mitchell from the roots to the ends because I know this is going to incorporate where his disconnection is and everything that I'm going to have veiled over this, I do want it to lessen in intensity as it gets around to the back. So as you can see in the front section, I've already begun the color mouth that we're going to have through the top of the hair. I've got the purple from the roots to the ends faded into the pink through the mid chefs. I'll show you how I do this, the colors that I use, and then how to just kind of keep this neat and still move in a nice efficient pace. So we've got that done. I wanted you to see it before I sectioned it all away because I want to be able to just lay this color down as I work. So I'm just going to place some foil right over this because I will be doing a slightly different color technique and pattern through the top. So I want to leave this undisturbed by just placing it under some foil that will just adhere right to that color. Now when I let the tops of the hair down, the three colors that I've chosen that are going to be that color melt, I'm working with, like I said, I'm working with Paul Mitchell ink works today. I'm going to be working with the blue, which is going to be the darker root, faded into the purple, which is then going to fade into the pink. The three colors go really nicely together if you want to change that up. I do suggest just finding things that are similar close in the color wheel if you want to create a nice gradation of color that sort of just blends itself out. If you want to have more fun and get things that don't go together that well, that could look really awesome too. Alright, so I've got her natural part. And to make this time efficient but also effective, the way I'm going to go through this, at first I'm going to create my blue root almost the same way that you would do a single process retouch that was sitting in your chair. So I've got my blue ink works here. And I'm just going to come through and start applying the root color. Now that we've got the blue roots done, we've got the first color down, we want to start to now create that middle color. For us and for this scenario, it's going to be our purple ink works. So what I'm going to do with each of my sections, I'm going to come in here. I'll start at the bottom and work up because it's just how it's going to be cleanest and easiest. I'm going to take my purple, decide where it's going to live as far as how far down, because don't forget we have a third color that we need to put in here. So I'm going to have the purple run from about here, say down to here. So we're going to start applying the purple, not quite going over that blue yet, but making sure that you get good, even saturation through the mid shafts. Because if you're working with fantasy colors, chances are you're really only going to get one go at this the first time around. So getting it nice and close, making sure you have that good saturation there. And always have a towel on hand when you're working with these, because you are going to need to make sure that you work very cleanly. If I'm dealing with colors that I want that nice gradation, I'm going to need to make sure that my hands are clean in between each section. So then before moving on, I'm going to take my ends and my third color, which is going to be the pink, and apply that almost right up to the purple. Again, making sure you get a nice, good, even saturation with plenty of color on there. Now comes the fun part. I always keep two extra brushes on hand, because like I said, you want to work cleanly, you want to work neatly. So my first brush is going to be what I'm going to use to marry these two colors together. So I'm going to take a little bit of blue on one corner of the brush, a little bit of purple on the other corner of the brush, and then I'm just going to start to marry those together. You just blend it, making sure you spread the hair out, get nice, even saturation. So taking that and now blending your colors together, bring that blue down into the purple, and then bring that purple up into the blue. And then eventually you'll see it where it no longer ceases to be two colors, it just turns into one. Now we'll take our second brush and do the same thing down here. Pink on one corner of the brush, purple on the other, and then just marry that in. And then eventually you've got your great blue into purple into pink. So now watch me do it at a way fast forwarded speed. Fantasy color, ombre, color melt, block color, fun technique. We're going to let her sit and chill now, let that color sink in, and then we'll be right back with a really awesome haircut for Matt for this. A couple pointers I want to make sure that you just notice. Something, when you're coming in and doing this, because like I said, I know the haircut we're trying to go into, and I know that if you followed some of our other videos, you know that when I say, I do ombres, I want the color to sort of melt and blend all over the place. But with this, I wanted to keep a little bit of consistency and try to have it turn into the blue at around the same area all the way around the head, just because the way that's going to sit after his haircut is complete, it's just going to kind of flow really, really neat. So I look forward to seeing it and I'll catch you on the next video. Thanks. Alright guys, so now we're going to get into the haircut and I'm really excited to bring you this type of haircut because the long bob is very popular, but I think it's really difficult to cut a long bob and have it actually fall the way that you want. So what we're going to do is we're going to start off by sectioning this to create an undercut on the bottom of the haircut. So we're going to section off basically from the occipital bone down. So you're going to kind of see me do that now. I'm really riding that occipital bone. I want to make sure that the weight is basically falling over top of the occipital bone. That's going to give the whole entire haircut kind of a tuck under as it comes around the occipital bone. So I like to remove all of that weight. The best way to do this is just section it off, pre-section everything, get organized, and really look at how that top hair is going to fall over before you go in and start cutting because you want to make sure that you have the right amount of density left over in the haircut. So we're going to go in, we're going to use a razor in this haircut. We're using a straight razor. The thing I like about that is it's just a really precise tool, but it has a lot of freedom to it as well. So I like cutting with a scissor. Most of the time we'll see me cutting with a scissor, but sometimes when I want to just remove a lot of bulk and feather the edges, then I go in with the straight blade. Everything in this haircut is coming directly out from the head. So we're cutting it square. There's not really a graduation. What you'll notice is I'm pretty much at 90 degrees. I mean, there's a slight bevel, maybe a little graduation towards the top, but for the most part it's at a 90-degree angle. And some of you that haven't watched my videos in the past, you may look at this and say it's a 45-degree angle, but really if you look at the head shape and how it curves under, we're really cutting at a 90-degree. So just doing some layering. Now we're going to work on top of our fingers. The biggest difference here, and we've talked about this in cutting bobs or graduation or anything, when you're working in the back of the head, it's better to shift your hand position from side to side. So when I'm cutting on the left-hand side, I like to have my fingers pointed up so that my combing is consistent. We talked about that in the past as well. You can reference some of the older graduation videos from FriislawnEducation.com. But just pointing my fingers down, keeping the fact that I'm combing towards the center of the head that will keep me consistent on both sides. I actually just saw a haircut the other day. I watched somebody do a haircut, and I noticed that on one side, they combed both sides the same direction. So on one side they were combing to the left, and on the other side they were still combing to the left. And what happened was, in the end of the haircut, one side was longer than the other. The reason that happens is because they don't change their hand position. You've got to really change it up to stay consistent. All right, now we let down our first section to go over top of the undercut. You'll see that I'm cutting this at a zero-degree angle. I'm still using the feather razor, so basically I'll use about medium strokes on this. So I'm cutting it at a one length, but just doing a little heavier stroke so that it shatters the edges. The beauty of this haircut, the thing that I like the most about it, is we've already collapsed the bottom, so now with this hair falling over it, all that weight is taken out, but it's still going to look like a shattered one-length bob, or a long bob. So it just takes out all that density that you don't even need, and most people just keep it in there because they feel like they have to, but if you take out that bottom section, that whole occipital bone area, then that hair falls over really, really nice. So again, nice heavy medium stroke there. That's going to give me a really nice shattered line within the haircut. Everything's being over-directed back towards my body, so we're cutting a triangular shape. We're pushing that weight forward slightly. So we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side, so medium stroke with the razor, directing everything towards myself, but not over-directing it to the center back, just straight back. So creating a slight triangular feel, just pushing that weight forward towards the chin. Then you're really going to see, you can see how soft it falls. That's the beauty of this haircut, and we talked about it a little bit ago, but just removing that weight and allowing the top of the haircut to fall over, instead of trying to remove weight by layering too much. So let's get into the side. So basically what I'm doing here is a heavier stroke with the razor. I want to really shatter the sides, but I'm drawing my own line. So instead of really over-directing it too much back to create the forward movement of the line, I'm etching it in with the razor. So I'm just a heavy stroke, dropping my finger, dropping my elevation a little bit slightly as I get to the front, just to create my own line and whatever I want it to be. I love this haircut. A lot of celebrities are wearing this type of haircut with a lot of movement, a lot of the kind of shattered feel to it. They're calling it the lob, the long bob, and I just really love the way that it falls and looks. Especially if it's just bouncing right over the shoulder, it's a really flattering haircut for a lot of people. For the fringe part, we're going to cut a small side fringe in this haircut with the razor. So it'll be interesting, hopefully. We'll see. But just diagonal forward sectioning, pretty typical from what you'd seen me in the past do on haircutting videos, but just kind of creating that diagonal forward sectioning and then taking a small vertical section out of it. So right at the part line, I'm going to go in with a heavy stroke with the razor, really shatter that fringe, but just creating a softness right around the cheekbone, and that's what we're trying to do here. Then I can connect the rest of that section, that little triangle that we've taken out of the fringe, connect it to that point. Not really over-directing it to create the angle. I'm creating the angle with the razor, just etching in whatever line I feel like I want to create. So you can have a lot of freedom with this and that's another benefit of a razor. Now we're going to go in, as soon as I get that, we're going to go in and connect the other side. So real simple, nothing fancy here. Just connecting the two sides together. So now we've finished it. That was the fastest blow-dry ever. I didn't think the blow-dry was that important. We flat-wrapped it, we ironed it. Now I'm going through and I'm just point-cutting around the edges, just really working that line in because I want it to fall shattered. I want the layers to feel shattered, but I like when there's a little bit of a line to the perimeter. Now I'm going to go through, a little bit more, we're going to do a dry-cutting technique. So I like to mix up, not only just using a razor, but going in with a scissor as well. So we're doing a slight bit of tease cutting, half-closing the scissor and just working it in to create the softness on the edges. You see that color that Brian created? I love, he just mixed all those inkworks together. It really makes the haircut stand out a lot. It's really fashionable and a lot of people love to have that type of coloring. You can see the shattering on the fringe that we created with the razor. So it's nice and soft. A lot of people want PC bangs or fringe and that's what they're asking for in the salon. So it's an easy way to create that. Now I want to go through and show you how to kind of create a straighter line if you want to, just add a little more artistic edge to it. I want to remove some of that purple. I really want that green and blue to kind of pop in the fringe area. So I wanted to remove some of that as well. It's kind of how you tie in a haircut with a color. I like that the pink and the purple go to the ends, but I really wanted to create a strong fringe. When it got to the end of the haircut, I just wanted to do that. Lifting it up, using the scissor to lift up the fringe and then going through little by little and cutting that. Don't try to cut it all at once. No matter how sharp your scissor is, you want to push that hair a little bit. And then, yeah, then you can see I really liked how that veil kind of fell over. So this was something, the beauty of dry cutting is that maybe you don't always go in with a plan. And when I looked at it, I really loved how that was peeking through, how the purple was kind of going through there. So I just went in and just etched out a little bit, but I wanted to leave some so that it was almost like you saw the depth in the bang and then the brightness kind of fell over. And I just liked the way that that looked. So I sectioned away some of that veil that was falling over. And then I wanted to go through and just kind of make that fringe a little bit stronger. So again, going through just lifting up with my scissor, putting in a stronger stamp on the fringe, and then I'm going to let the top kind of fall. So a little point cutting in there. I love these little details. I think this is what separates salons. So a lot of salons wouldn't take the time to do the detail work. I think it's really important you create the shape wet and then go in and really add these finishing touches. We're going to do a little slide cutting. So just pinching the hair. This will add a little more shattering to the haircut. So just going through, sliding my scissor down. I'm using the Mizetani Type Z2. It's my favorite scissor. It's really sharp. It just peels right through the hair. I love it. So you can see the movement, how it's not dense at the bottom. That's really the key of this haircut is just taking out the density, letting the hair kind of flow and fall without cutting a bunch of short layers into it. You can see how the back right there, it's beveling under and the reason it's doing that is because the entire occipital bone is gone. So there's no hair to push that shape out. It's just collapsing down and tucking under. That's a challenge we've had for a long time in hair cutting is you always have that bulk at the bottom because it's so dense. Well, if you do an undercut, you don't have that problem anymore. A little more tease cutting just to finish it up. And again, you could take that veil off. Obviously some parts of this are salon-friendly, some parts aren't. You can take what you want from it. But that veil could obviously be cut into more of a side fringe if you want it. But you can see how it peeks through there. And then the last little bit, I wanted to just put a little shape into this so it wasn't just a big long piece hanging down. So we're just going to tie it into the bottom there. Again, I cut the line, slight elevation, so then I go in with my point cutting and that just defines the line even more. Because anytime you pick up hair, it doesn't create a real strong line. So just going in there using the point of the scissor, sharpens it up. So here's our finished look. I hope you guys enjoy it. I like it. It's cool. Brian did a great job on the color. Thank you guys so much for following us, supporting us at freesaloneducation.com. Make sure you join our community and we will have lots and lots more videos to come for you guys and free, of course. So check us out, freesaloneducation.com. Thanks guys.