 Hi, I'm your host Steve and welcome to Retro Tech today. We're looking back at the Sony CRT KV 27s 26 that we broke down that I broke down in the last video Tour completely apart all the parts and tools are finally in to do the recap and To RGB mod the TV so today. I'm got all the parts in set out here I want to go through some of them with you a little closer I want to go through the boards a little bit and then we're going to go ahead and start Taking the caps out and replace them with the new caps now I do order on my caps from one place and I'll show you also the same tools I'm using from one brand and They definitely don't pay me to do this This is all just stuff that these are the places I order from as a normal customer like you would if you were Ordering any of these things. Let's take a closer look at the tools and the components Here are today's tools. So let's start off with the soldering iron This will be used to install the new capacitors or maybe reflow any old solder I use this HECO unit and it's the FX 888d And it's a pretty good unit I've been using it for about a year and a half and hasn't given me any troubles There are a couple of tips that you can change on it But other than that I haven't had to do much with it This is the thing that just came in today that I'm really excited about Excuse me there. I was waiting for this to come in. This is the HECO FR 301 and this is supposed to be great at removing and taking out solder and Removing components by just using this simple vacuum. So that'll speed things up a lot on this job I would not recommend that you try to do a big job like this with this many capacitors on this style of board With something similar to this. I used to use these on these pumps They're about twenty twenty five dollars and they're okay But you don't want to use them because they don't have any kind of heat control And you can very easily burn through a board and you don't want to do that with your CRT So you got to make sure you got a nice one of these and a nice one of these that you're going to be using a lot For this job. I've also got my solder and then I use this I use this no clean flux I use it a lot and I recommend it a lot. It's very it helps The bond of your solder and so I'll be using that here's a couple of the cleaning tools for this And then I've got these pliers just in case one of these caps is stubborn to get out of the way I probably want to use it and then just some snips and that's gonna be the majority of the tools We might run into a situation where we need something else, but let's flip around and take a look at the board Okay, welcome back to the boards here So this is the big board which has all our parts that we're going to be really needing to focus on changing What I did want to do is show you kind of the way these boards are set up And it's almost resembles kind of like a city like a large city reminds me of like buildings and Throwaways and then the reason I say that too is they're kind of separated into almost burrows where these white lines will separate out the areas of the board so You can tell what if so if you have a specific problem with an area on your television Then you can if you know what the problem area is on the TV Then you can take it apart and probably work in the problem area a little bit easier rather than just thinking something's going on with The whole board so look at the closer, and I'll show you what I mean So right off the bat here over here this section says horizontal h def Which so that's our horizontal deflection so anything that we have with our horizontal stuff if we had any problems These would be the capacitors components will be concentrating on them. We have a vertical v def So you've got our vertical deflection And over here is the middle part with our jungle chip So we've got a Y slash C says J for jungle chip and our color Y chroma And then our audio amp are all these capacitors right here So we move over a little bit more And we've got this control area that goes into the front controls of the television And up here we've got the pin amp and the pin out mod and all this stuff So if we change these components this might actually help us on our corners So that's that'll be exciting to see the results of that This is a little board. That's a plug-in board. It's for the PIP the picture in picture So I am actually not planning on replacing the capacitors in this It's just be a waste of time as I probably don't plan on using that and that was working fine anyway So let's move on down the board a little bit more. You can check out the rest of this Over here see picture in picture. That's where that board goes in and then over here. We've got our tuner And on the back side this then it says AV Switch so that's where that plugs in and then you can see here. That's what plugs in there Is our AV board which is over here, which again will be doing components replacement on all this It'll be really easy to see all the components. They're going to be different color capacitors for the most part But we'll set it up. Let you watch this work on some and I'll let you see me change some of those Capacitors out Well, I'm back here at the workstation. I've got things set up. I'm going to start doing the cap replacement Just some things and some tips As again, I'm going to do these things one at a time So I will take a capacitor out and then put the same capacitor replacement one in its place There that way you don't get confused and actually take something out And you can't remember what was in its place and you'd have to go refer to the service manual to try to fix that A second tip would be to After you've gotten all your capacitors in I actually order mine from a company called mouser and The way I do it is I actually go through and will categorize and Label or write down every single capacitor that I need to order and then I'll separate them by Boards so here today. I'm working on the uv which is the backboard for the audio and video input board so I've got my listing of capacitors for that board from my order sheet here And to make it easier on myself. I organize them And this one I've got each type of capacitor I have to change. I've put in a slot here That way I know how many I need when they're all gone. I've done it right and I can double check But what we're going to do now is I'll take you in a little closer And let you see me replace a couple of these and then we'll probably do a quick stop And we'll come back after the job's done to show you what it looks like when you've replaced all the capacitors I'm going to come in the screen here and just work around a little bit make sure I've got everything centered up So to easily show you how this nice heco FR 301 works Let's just go ahead and get our first capacitor out And again, we've got our AV board here So let's start with this lone capacitor up here Flip it around and there's the contact points. You can see how very Fragile it would be an easy to burn the contacts if you If you don't have the right equipment There we go. That one's out And then you can easily see that this is a 50 volt 0.47 micro faran capacitor Here I've got my replacement capacitor the nice thing about these capacitors ordered Is these are a newer brand, but they're higher quality And they're red so I can easily tell Which ones I've trade changed out so negative in negative and positive And the positive Oh And I'll just add a touch of this Just like to put a little solder on the end of my tip To get these set in place I'll sit there and flow it nicely for a finish And there you go. There's the first one So what we'll do here is we'll do all these on this board all on the deflection board As well as the neck board And then I'll let you see all that once we are finished Welcome back to a live cut in I had to show you this because This was the very last capacitor I removed this very large capacitor And it was shot. It was leaking And look at the spot here That it's left It's nasty stuff. So I'll have to clean this off But I checked after every capacitor I've replaced which you could see it's all red You do see some stuff here, but that's just some That flux that'll be cleaned off too But that needs to be cleaned off and that was the only spot like that The one bad capacitor that was on the deflection side So that would affect geometry So now I'm going to put it back together I'm going to finish up with the last capacitor replacement here And then I'll put the boards out and show you what it looks like finished And here we have it our finished Replaced capacitors and all our boards here Swing around to the front Now again, I'm going to do a little bit more cleaning on the board before I Pack it back up But I did want to show you this this is that jungle chip we talked about so In our next video we'll be pulling rgb and some other things off of this chip basically by desoldering these pins a couple of them and then Tapping into it with a line that we have some parts that we're going to add to the tv And an input for rgb And hopefully that'll work with this television according to the manual it should And but you never really know because it wasn't designed that way So again, I'm not going to put this back together But I thought it would be a neat picture because you could notice since all the capacitors are now red instead of black How we've changed everything out? I really appreciate you staying with me and checking out this special today I really appreciate you sticking with me and checking out this retro tech special today Please like the video if you did like it and subscribe if you haven't already The next video we'll be talking more about the rgb install and performing that and testing the monitor Thanks again for watching retro tech