 Welcome to the new video tutorial how to paint aircraft cockpit. For this video series I have chosen model Fockeville 119 made by Edward. The first step is to carefully read the manual and find the parts that I need. Now I cut out the individual parts with splitters and clean up with a sharp knife. And now I glue everything together. I use the Revell contactor glue and my favorite Tamiya X-Rafin glue which is great for small parts. The cockpit now looks very ordinary so I improve it a little. I hint the gauges with drill and deepen the details. However it is easier to use electric microdrill proxon. This tool provides a lot of options such as griling, griding, polishing and cutting. I clear impurities after the griling with extra thin glue. The cockpit still does not have much details and it doesn't look like original aircraft cockpit. Therefore I create razor levers and buttons from epoxy putty which is best for creating such small detailed parts. I must not forget to make a pillow. I decide to try lead wires and I saw I have bowed quite a lot of them with many different diameters. The guy I must say this is best thing what I found this year so far. There are absolutely astonishing to work with. There are mainly used by fishermen but there can be bowed in the hobby shops too. I will definitely show you more of them in the one of the future tutorials. It is quite easy to work with leather wires because they hold the shape very well. I glue them with a super glue. Next I can make myself a rudder pedals. Difference between original ones from the kit and photo edge parts is pretty big. I let the epoxy putty to dry for one day. After that I can start the painting the cockpit, finally. I start with a black base and make the shades gradually brighter. This way I create artificial shadows in the folds. If you watch my previous videos there you have noticed that I use Tamiya acrylic paints. I mix the light grey shade from two colors and spray the paint in vertically direction to the cockpit. So I have the basic done and now start the fun parts of the brushing painting. I recommend it to use acrylic paints. In my case I use Vallejo and Citadel paints. It's also important to have a fine thin brush, for example Tamiya pointing brush small. I paint the pillow with leather color and subsequently shade with beige color. The beige paint must be well thinned so I wouldn't make sharp transition between shades. Now I paint the gauges and labels with white Citadel color. I spray the whole cockpit with varnish Mr. Color Super Clear 3. It will seal already painted details and protect them before applying washes. Another improvement made from photo edge parts are seat belts that will brighten up the model nicely. It is nearly impossible to achieve this result in scale 1 to 72 only with a brush and therefore adult cells already painted dashboards. However in scale 1 to 48 I usually repaint them. I unite the color with rest of cockpit. I leave the black parts with gauges as it is. Some people overlap the part with transparent film, but it's more efficient to create each slide separately with gloss varnish. Then it will have better three dimensional look. I apply thick glossy paint into the holes with a brush. It should create a thin transparent membrane. I glue the individual photo edge parts together with a dispersion adhesive. Don't worry if you don't have a color photo edge parts. Now I will show you how to paint the same dashboards only with a brush. The basic is to have a fine round brush and steady hand. If you don't care much of the authenticity of the dashboards you can add several colors to brighten it up. Now I apply the gloss varnish on the gauges to create the impression of the glass slides. The labels would not hurt either and the model will look better. At the end I use Citadel brown wash. This is how to difference between photo edge parts and painted dashboards looks like. I straight out a little from making the cockpit, but I am going to finish it now. I highlight the details with washes. I use Citadel wash for seat belts and Tamiya wash for rest. If you make a splotch or you overuse the washes too much, you can partially clean them with thinner for washes from mick production. If you seal the undercoat with varnish, then it should not damage the paint and it should easily remove the dried wash. One of the last step is to paint the safety belts buckle with a silver color. I add a little bit of the dust under the pilot's feet using mick production pigments. At the end I spray everything with matte varnish.